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#1 Old 12-05-2008, 01:54 PM
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Removing pickup bed

I'm going to try and take off the bed of my 1989 Toyota 4x4 Extended Cab Pickup but I've never done anything like it before. The box sides are rusted and hanging loose and the bed floor has holes in it as well as the bed floor cross members.

Can anyone walk a complete amateur through the process of removing the old bed step by step. Any hints of what I might encounter with such a rusted box and/or tools I'll need to complete the job?

Any help would be immensely appreciated.

Thanks,

Joe
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#2 Old 12-05-2008, 03:55 PM
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there are 8 bed mounting bolts from the bottom, 3 screws in the gas filler neck, and 8 screws for the tail lights. then you have to unclip and pull the wiring harness for the license plate and tail lights. then get a friend to help you pick it up and over the rear tires. it was pretty easy when i took mine off but i have zero rust on my truck so you might have some problems i didnt.

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REAR: Deaver F67 Leafs, Fox 14''Shocks, Custom Bed Cage, Glassworks Bedsides, Tacoma E-locker Axle 4:88 31x10.5 BFG AT Tires
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#3 Old 12-05-2008, 10:13 PM
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Thanks very much for the instruction, Sid. I'll give it a shot.
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#4 Old 12-05-2008, 10:15 PM
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By the way, this may be a dumb question, but if I apply some lubricant to the bolts before I try to take them off, what is the best way for it to be most effective.

Thanks
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#5 Old 12-05-2008, 11:06 PM
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use PB blaster or similar and let it soak for a couple days before you try to loosen them. If its rusty (as I'm sure it is) you're going to need some heat too, get a big propane torch to heat the nuts up.

Or just do what I did. use a plasma cutter and slice it right off.

1994 P/U 160K Mi, 3.0VZE - 5 Spd - Fisher Plow
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#6 Old 12-05-2008, 11:29 PM
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PB Blaster or Seafoam Deep Creep seem to work pretty well, WD40 can do it too. Although my experience with rusted bolts is that even if you do lube them and heat them up you still break 'em half the time. My reccomendation in that situation would be just cut them off or possibly Easy Out, and then just start a search for replacement bolts (just make sure you get nuts/bolts that are strong enough to hold the neccessary torque, and is the right size.) If you don't need to replace them, more power to ya. And ya taking the bed off is just bolt and screw removal like Sid said.

Are you gonna buy a new bed/paint your truck?


'93 Pickup 4x4 22R-E
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#7 Old 12-06-2008, 02:34 AM
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Thanks for the advice fellas,

I'm debating whether to get a new bed (which would be an easy choice except that it's next to impossible to get one in Nova Scotia for under a million dollars) or just ordering a bed floor and box sides and rebuilding one.

I love the truck and I'm not giving up on it yet. It runs like a dream.

Thanks again,

Joe
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#8 Old 12-06-2008, 07:25 AM
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Another tip if rusty fasteners are an issue. The heads on the three gas filler screws may easily strip out when you try to remove them. Do yourself a favor and use a good impact driver, the kind you hit with a hammer, with the proper bit in it. If you use it right from the start, you MIGHT not destroy the screws getting them out. I've removed three of them now here in New England and I've only successfully removed one without destroying the screws. It was the one where I used the impact driver from the start.

I have had reasonable success getting the mounting bolts out with heat and an impact gun. I used acetylene torches though. I'm not sure propane will get hot enough.

I was thinking about sides and a floor replacement too. Then I suddenly found a good solid bed for $500 so I went with it.

Good luck.

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#9 Old 12-06-2008, 09:34 AM
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I had to sawzall my bed off.
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#10 Old 12-06-2008, 09:35 AM
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I just took of my bed on a 1987 4wd last night. I live in minnesota and the bed was rusted - the frame looks great as it was undercoated. It was pretty hard getting the 8 bolts off as mentioned in previous replies. I used my biggest breaker bar and a long extension and just kept at it. My back and arm are sore from the work. None of my bed bolts broke or got stripped - luckily. The nuts, unlike mine, will have to be replaced. The next problem was getting the 3 screws loose on the gas tank hose where it connects to the bed. I tried my biggest screw driver, then liquid wrench, then bought an impact screw driver - no luck. By then the screw heads were stripped. I then just took a 1/4 drill and drilled out the screws in a couple of minutes.

The bed is not that heavy but it a bit hard getting leverage to lift it high enough to clear the frame and tip it back off the end of the truck. Does not help that I am almost 60 years old too!

I am picking up a new bed in January and must drive 700 miles to get it. I am going to rig up the lights onto the bumper and drive it bedless. I may put on a temporary bed of wood just to throw on some bags of sand since it snowed her last night and the truck could not get enough traction to get up a small incline without putting it in 4 wd. I wish I could have picked up the bed this fall but my work schedule was in conflict.

I am going to clean up the frame now. I thought about using a wire wheel to remove old junk then recoating.

Anyone know the best way to prepare the frame and what to use for undercoat before putting the bed back on?

thanks.

Last edited by sailor; 12-06-2008 at 09:44 AM.
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#11 Old 12-08-2008, 08:25 PM
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I would suggest sandblasting. Failing that go at it with a wirewheel/sander. POR15 is an amazing product for undercoating.

You could just go with Tremclad...

If you plan on driving around without the bed, throw about 200lbs in the back. Thats about the beds weight, these trucks are already light in the ass end

1991 Pickup - 3vze - 4x4 - SR5 - 5sp- 270k.
Currently in street DD mode

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#12 Old 12-09-2008, 03:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailor View Post
The nuts, unlike mine, will have to be replaced.
After you said that and then told us how you are 60 years old that really brightened my day...

If you do a good job fixin' up the frame that'll be pretty sick to say that you have like the only '87 truck in Minnesota that has no rust.


'93 Pickup 4x4 22R-E
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#13 Old 12-15-2008, 09:59 PM
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Sailor - I'm planning on doing the same on my '89 pickup this spring. After researching, I'm going with Rustbullet. It seems to be hold up better than POR15 which everyone is familiar with.

Here's the link to the Rust Bullet website- http://www.rustbullet.com/index.htm

Good luck and take some pics. I'd like to see how it turns out.

2005 Camry LE
1989 DLX 1 Ton Pickup- 2WD, std cab, long bed, V6 3VZE, Automatic
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#14 Old 12-16-2008, 06:57 AM
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I used POR 15 on mine and it worked really well. I've used some of there other products too and they have all worked well.

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