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Old 02-18-2009, 03:32 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Question Check Engine Light Question

I have a 1995 Pickup, V-6, Auto, 4x4, extended cab.
There's 161400 miles on it, but it's in very good overall shape
My check engine light has been on for about a week and a half.
My truck runs fine. No noticeable difference in the way it runs.
Once in a while, the check engine light will go off, and it doesn't run so well, then the check engine light will come back on and it will run fine again.
I'm guessing that the computer goes into a pre-set program instead of real time analyzing when the check engine light is on. So there must be a sensor not functioning properly?
Like I said , it runs fine when the light is on.
Should I get this checked, or just drive it?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
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Old 02-18-2009, 03:57 PM   #2 (permalink)
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sounds like an O2 sensor?

but that's just me
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Old 02-18-2009, 04:19 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Many auto parts stores, like AutoZone, will let you use their code scanner to check it free of charge. So I'd suggest checking it and then coming back here if you have any questions about interpretation or how to fix it.
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Old 02-18-2009, 08:46 PM   #4 (permalink)
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You don't need a scanner to read the code - you just need a paperclip to jump two terminals in the gray plastic check connector on the side of the fuse/relay block on the passenger inner fender. Instructions and the list of code meanings are in the fsm. If you don't have one, google 1993 toyota pickup service manual and look in the section ENGINE - MFI System--Diagnostics. Make sure you're in the 3VZE section which comes after the 22RE sections.

There are some instructions in this post, too:
High idle?

Sometimes the codes can be misleading - if you want, post 'em here & we'll pontificate.
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Old 02-20-2009, 05:00 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sb5walker View Post
You don't need a scanner to read the code - you just need a paperclip to jump two terminals in the gray plastic check connector on the side of the fuse/relay block on the passenger inner fender. Instructions and the list of code meanings are in the fsm. If you don't have one, google 1993 toyota pickup service manual and look in the section ENGINE - MFI System--Diagnostics. Make sure you're in the 3VZE section which comes after the 22RE sections.

There are some instructions in this post, too:
High idle?

Sometimes the codes can be misleading - if you want, post 'em here & we'll pontificate.
.
Thanks for the help.
I read the link that you included above.
I'm going to try the paper clip method.
Is there a link that shows which terminal is TE1 & E1?
Also a link that has the code meanings.
Thanks again for all the help.
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Old 02-20-2009, 07:39 PM   #6 (permalink)
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When you open the little grey diagnostics box, its labeled which terminals are which.
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Old 02-21-2009, 01:20 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I had the same exact problem on my veezy. Turned out to be the TPS. Replaced it and it now runs good...but the mileage still sux. Oh well, can't win 'em all!
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Old 02-21-2009, 09:23 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I used the paper clip method.
I got code #21.
O2 sensor. Which sensor would it be? The one after the cat?
Also, I could use some help on how to change the sensor.
Some pics or diagrams would be a great help.
Thanks
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Old 02-21-2009, 09:58 AM   #9 (permalink)
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i just crawled under the truck and found it is the o2 sensor before the cat, that is following the exhaust from the front to the back. it came apart where it goes into the flange or mount. And it looks like there is just a plug that you unplug and plug back in as far as the wiring goes.

Is that all there is to it?
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Old 02-21-2009, 07:51 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Yup. If you want it to run right, get a Denso. Best prices from rockauto.com. That should last you 90k miles.
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Old 02-23-2009, 05:18 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sb5walker View Post
Yup. If you want it to run right, get a Denso. Best prices from rockauto.com. That should last you 90k miles.
I have a Bosch O2 sensor that I had already ordered. It doesn't have the OEM connectors on it. I think I'm going to return it.
Does the Denso O2 sensor have the OEM connectors?
Thanks for the help
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Old 02-23-2009, 07:47 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Yes, the Denso has the OEM connector because it is the OEM part - the same that you would get from your Toyota dealer. With electrical parts, it pays to get the Densos because they are the factory parts and they are designed to work together. That includes the spark plugs, too: I've tried many different plugs in the 14 years I've owned my 3VZE and none work as well as the Denso K16R-U.

It's just as well to send the Bosch back - I've heard of people who have had trouble with them on Toyotas. BUT- if it was the right part, the connector should have fit. Be sure you're getting the front ("upstream") sensor for non-California trucks (assuming your truck was not originally sold in CA) - the California trucks have a second sensor behind the cat ("downstream"). Watch too, that you get the one for 4x4.

Once you've installed the new sensor, pull the EFI fuse in the fuse/relay box on the passenger inner fender (with ignition OFF) for 10 seconds or so to clear the codes from the computer and reset it. It will take a few drives and some miles for the computer to recalibrate with the new sensor.
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Old 02-24-2009, 07:16 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sb5walker View Post
Yes, the Denso has the OEM connector because it is the OEM part - the same that you would get from your Toyota dealer. With electrical parts, it pays to get the Densos because they are the factory parts and they are designed to work together. That includes the spark plugs, too: I've tried many different plugs in the 14 years I've owned my 3VZE and none work as well as the Denso K16R-U.

It's just as well to send the Bosch back - I've heard of people who have had trouble with them on Toyotas. BUT- if it was the right part, the connector should have fit. Be sure you're getting the front ("upstream") sensor for non-California trucks (assuming your truck was not originally sold in CA) - the California trucks have a second sensor behind the cat ("downstream"). Watch too, that you get the one for 4x4.

Once you've installed the new sensor, pull the EFI fuse in the fuse/relay box on the passenger inner fender (with ignition OFF) for 10 seconds or so to clear the codes from the computer and reset it. It will take a few drives and some miles for the computer to recalibrate with the new sensor.
Thanks for all the help!
The Bosch sensor's harness is a universal fit type. They do make a direct fit type. I don't know why the parts person didn't order that one? Anyways, I'm returning the Bosch and getting the Denso.
On my Truck, there's a sensor before the cat and after it. So it must be a California Truck? The sensor that needs to be replace is the one before the cat.
Here's a link to rockauto.com with the Denso O2 sensors.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php
It looks like I would need part#2344052.
Could someone verify this?
Also, what is the metric thread and size for the flange mounting nuts?
I know the ones on there are already rounded over.
Thanks again for all the help!
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Old 02-24-2009, 11:08 AM   #14 (permalink)
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A good parts person is worth his or her weight in gold. Of course, the inverse is also true...

To give a link to the Rock Auto catalog, you have to use their older html catalog, instead of their new flashed based "interactive" one. You'll see a small link to the "traditional HTML catalog" at the bottom of the flash page:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/catalog.php

When you go in that way, you can get to the main page for your vehicle, which you can save as a bookmark. If yours is a Deluxe and not an SR5 this would be your main page:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1278110

Part number 2344052 for the Denso sensor is what I come up with, too.

As far as the threads, I'm not sure. You might send a PM to "pickup" who recently replaced the nuts on his O2 sensor ; his is a 92 22RE but it's probably the same size:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...28#post2651028

As I mentioned to him, I recommend stainless nuts, and you might consider hitting the studs with a good rust converter, letting it fully cure, and then using a little bit of anti-seize compound (being VERY careful not to allow any of that to touch the sensor part of the sensor) - see my later post.

An alternative is just to get the nuts from a toyota dealer - they probably keep some on hand. I'm not sure if they would be stainless, but they'll fit.
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Old 02-24-2009, 04:49 PM   #15 (permalink)
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www.sparkplugs.com

Check their prices too. I got my NGK o2 sensor for like $46.00 Locally I wouldve paid $200+
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