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Old 04-18-2009, 05:08 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Coolant Flush?

ok, i'm wanting to do a coolant flush on my 94 22RE. i've got the Haynes manual. i found what i believe to be the radiator drain plug, but i can't find the engine block drain plug. where the hell is it?

another thing, i bought a coolant flush kit from Lordco. it has the t-valve, hose adaptor etc. i'm supposed to connect the t-valve to my heater hose. i can't find the damn heater hose and the Haynes manual has no reference to it, only the drain plugs. are the toyota engines different?

anyone have step by step info and better pictures than the Haynes manual? i'm obviously not a very experienced mechanic.
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Old 04-18-2009, 06:01 PM   #2 (permalink)
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The engine drain plug on a 22RE it just below the exhaust manifold towards the back of the engine under cylinder 3 or 4, it is just a bolt. There are 2 hoses that go from the engine to the firewall, those are the heater hoses.
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Old 04-18-2009, 07:10 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Here are a couple pics. Note that when you remove the plug you might have to stick a short wire in there to clear out the black gunk which has settled -- probably fipg.


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Old 04-18-2009, 09:57 PM   #4 (permalink)
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right on. thanks guys. when i go to insert the t-valve, do i just pick one of the heater hoses, or is there a specific one to use? the Haynes manual mentions nothing of doing this, thus why i'm asking.
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Old 08-09-2009, 04:00 AM   #5 (permalink)
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answer

Hey well no one ever really answered this guy. I recently bought a 1992 pickup with a 22re and had the very same question - I searched and searched and it took me quite awhile to find a definite answer, but I figured it out. So I though I would be nice and help out the next person with this question.

Here are some pictures. The part labeled "3" is the heater valve - it links to the hot/cold lever inside the cab and controls how much hot water flows through the heater core. Therefore, this hose - "2" ( blue line) is the "heater core inlet hose". The hose numbered "1" (red line) is the outlet hose. Connecting a flush kit to this line would not flush the system properly, it would be forcing water from your hose in the wrong direction to the heater core.

The two hoses were zip tied together, and it was better to remove the zip tie to do this. In the second picture, you can see that I zip tied the outlet hose temporarily away from the area to avoid damaging it. You can see where I placed the "T". The third picture just shows the complete job - after I zip tied the hoses back together. Don't forget to open the heater core valve (by turning the heater to the highest setting), before flushing. This is critical. Also remove the radiator cap, and open the radiator drain valve. Turn the hose on and let the engine run until the water runs clear.

Hope this has helped someone else.





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Old 08-09-2009, 04:26 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Nice.
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Old 08-10-2009, 01:13 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Another useful tip is would be to get the front end uphill or in the air a little to allow air bubbles to work their way out. Otherwise you can get an air bubble trapped in the line (usually the heater).
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Old 08-10-2009, 08:14 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Use toyota coolant. It really is better then the other aftermarket stuff. Won't corrode your motor.
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Old 08-10-2009, 10:19 PM   #9 (permalink)
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get another thermostat housing gasket remove the thermostat. after flushing fill the block up until you see the coolant right at the housing, install the thermostat and hoses finish filling the rest of the system.
when i do it this way i never have air trapped problems. when you fill it have it on as level a surface as possible. Mix your coolant with distilled water, I have flushed my truck every two years since I have had it and it is a 91 and the block is as clean as when it was new. I use a good quality coolant that is for an engine with dissimilar metal.
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Old 08-11-2009, 07:45 PM   #10 (permalink)
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So I have 2 questions:

Do you have to drain the coolant from the engine block if you use the tee fitting method or does connecting the tee fitting bypass this step? I bought a tee fitting setup and it says nothing about draining the coolant from the engine block.

Does your drain plug stick out of the block a little? Mine looks like a bolt that is not threaded in all the way. It is pretty tight, and I don't want to rip on in and remove it if it is a possible hack/strip job from the last owner.

Last edited by pickuptruckguy; 08-11-2009 at 07:46 PM.
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Old 08-11-2009, 09:01 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Buy a good brass petcock and install it in place of the block plug. They make some pretty good flush solution you run the engine for 30 minutes or so. After you flush for about 30 minutes open the drain at the radiator and block adjust your water hose at the tee connection so it does not pressurize the block I think city pressure is 35lbs or so and too much for the cooling system. On final flush just make sure the water is clean coming out of the block and radiator.
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Old 08-20-2009, 06:19 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Brilliant T-Valve Idea!!

Just curious....I made the mistake of filling my system with Prestone and want to flush and re-fill with the Red coolant. Would running distilled water 2 or 3 time through the system till the water runs clear be sufficient for a coolant flush?

E
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Old 08-20-2009, 07:52 PM   #13 (permalink)
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If the water runs clear, it's sufficient, but that sometimes takes more than 2-3 flushes. Just be sure the heater control is all the way to hot so the heater core gets flushed, too.

As far as the direction to flush the heater core, has anyone tried backflushing it? Seems to me it might flush out some crap that was stuck in there, but I haven't tried it. If attempted, don't overdo the pressure and be sure to direct the outflow into a container so it doesn't go into the block.
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Old 12-21-2012, 08:38 PM   #14 (permalink)
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"thegtc" gave some great info.
I'll hopefully add some useful info.
Very good idea to buy new thermostat, easy to install.
Always use 50% Toyota Red Coolant and 50% Distilled water, your gaskets will last forever.
The Engine Block Drain plug is a 14mm and can be accessed through the drivers wheel arch.




I used my garden hose nozzle, it was a perfect fit. Just put your thumb over the heater valve outlet, it will become self evident when the water starts flowing, you want the water to come out of the Engine Block Drain.
Happy Flushing



Last edited by milkybar; 12-21-2012 at 08:42 PM.
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Old 12-22-2012, 08:09 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Canada

Quote:
Originally Posted by thegtc View Post
Hey well no one ever really answered this guy. I recently bought a 1992 pickup with a 22re and had the very same question - I searched and searched and it took me quite awhile to find a definite answer, but I figured it out. So I though I would be nice and help out the next person with this question.

Here are some pictures. The part labeled "3" is the heater valve - it links to the hot/cold lever inside the cab and controls how much hot water flows through the heater core. Therefore, this hose - "2" ( blue line) is the "heater core inlet hose". The hose numbered "1" (red line) is the outlet hose. Connecting a flush kit to this line would not flush the system properly, it would be forcing water from your hose in the wrong direction to the heater core.

The two hoses were zip tied together, and it was better to remove the zip tie to do this. In the second picture, you can see that I zip tied the outlet hose temporarily away from the area to avoid damaging it. You can see where I placed the "T". The third picture just shows the complete job - after I zip tied the hoses back together. Don't forget to open the heater core valve (by turning the heater to the highest setting), before flushing. This is critical. Also remove the radiator cap, and open the radiator drain valve. Turn the hose on and let the engine run until the water runs clear.

Hope this has helped someone else.





How thoughtful of you to take the time and post these pics. As many of you know, the pics/diagrams/explanations in the aftermarket manuals (Haynes et al) are often pretty lame at best.

TN members like "thegtc" (and countless others), are what make this forum so great...Truly helpful DIY info expressed in a non-condescending and non-judgemental manner. Two BIG thumbs up from me !!!
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