The pressure side hose developed a leak today on my 89 22RE 2wd. Found a new hose at a local auto parts supplier. Got the banjo bolt out OK but the other end that screws into the PS unit won't budge. It is a 17 mm compresssion connection. A 17 mm wrench will round the edges of the connector and a 17 mm flare nut wrench fits fine but flexes enough to begin to slip. I thought of cutting the tubing to allow a 17 mm 6 point socket to fit, but I am afraid metal fines mght drop into the PS unit.
The 88 manual I downloaded showed a SST being used. Anyone know what that is? Any suggestions short of taking the whole PS unit out of the truck. I am afraid of breaking the connector off in the PS unit.
Just about the only flare nut wrenches worth a damn are the Snap-Ons, and even they have cheaped up a bit lately. (In quality, certainly not in price - check the resale on ebay - sheesh!)
The Craftsman Pro series (not their regular trash) are a slightly better than useless, for some things, but nowhere near the old Snap-Ons. Looks like the Craftsman Pros are the same as SK wrenches now, so that's another bad but not heinously bad choice.
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89 4x4 X-Cab V6
WARNING: I'm not a professional tech - use any advice at your own risk. Working on vehicles is risky: you can kill or maim yourself or damage your truck if you don't know what you are doing. It's your responsibility to get qualified help if you lack auto repair training/experience.
Well, the tube is steel and so tough I couldn't flatten it. I have ordered the Snap on crows foot flare nut wrench in 17 mm. Has anyone ever gotten special service tools from Toyota? Petty expensive I suspect. Specifically, the SST 09631-22020.
If it comes to taking the whole PS unit out of the truck, has anyone done it and how difficult is it to get it back in right?
Well the Snap-On 17mm crows foot flare nut wrench I ordered came yesterday and I was able to get the fitting out of the gear unit. Once it broke it came out real smooth from all the penetrating oil. I am picking up new "O" rings from the dealer this morning for the connector the banjo bolt screws into. Since I mistakenly took it off too I felt it was best to replace the 20 year old "O" rings.
I need to flush the alternator with some contact cleaning solvent I have as the PS fluid pretty much ran in there when I took the banjo bolt off last Saturday. Then I need to bleed they system after adding the ATF - says Dextron or Dextron II. Any reason to use one over the other?
I didn't know Snap-On would sell to individuals. The tool was great. I think without it I would have had to take the gear unit out.
If it comes to taking the whole PS unit out of the truck, has anyone done it and how difficult is it to get it back in right?
Oops, sorry, didn't see this post. Yeah, very good thing you got the fitting off with the gearbox in place - it's a pain to get the splines lined up again, and it's surprisingly and annoyingly heavy.
For fluid, any Dexron ATF will work but - there are three Dexron III compatible fluids that are more viscous than most and are often recommended for power steering:
I'm glad the Snap-On flare nut wrench worked for you. They are very good - the jaws are very strong and don't flex like most flare nut wrenches do. If you see a set of the old style ones on ebay in good condition they are a great snag if you can afford (they go for a premium). I have a 40 year old Snap-On phillips head screwdriver and the business end of it still looks practically new - must have been made of krypton or something Like everything, their quality has dipped the past few years, but not their prices. Watching ebay for good quality older style tools is usually the best bet (when you have the luxury of waiting - which you didn't).
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89 4x4 X-Cab V6
WARNING: I'm not a professional tech - use any advice at your own risk. Working on vehicles is risky: you can kill or maim yourself or damage your truck if you don't know what you are doing. It's your responsibility to get qualified help if you lack auto repair training/experience.
Well I have her all back together and have put the Dextron ATF in up to the mark on the stick attached to the cap. I know when I start her up the level will go down a lot.
Question: There are a lot of different bleeding instructions in the various aftermarket Toyota Truck manuals I have. I know years ago when I replaced a PS hose on something I just ran the steering back and forth stop to stop about 3 or 4 times and this bled the air out. One suggests putting the front end up on jack stands and turning the wheels back and forth 3 or 4 times with the engine off. Then starting the engine after adjusting the PS fluid level and turning back and forth 3 or 4 times. The put the front wheels back on the ground and doint the same thing 3 or 4 times.
I bled the system by the method I described - jacking, etc. Had to add more ATF about 3 times. No leaks and the PS functioned fine. I will monitor the level for a while until I see that it is constant. If I am a little high I will pull some out.
I want to thank everyone who commented for their help and input. I am not a novice, but appreciate the help just the same.
The power steering continues to function with no leaks, etc. But, there is some noise and vibration felt in the steering wheel when turning and some hesitation when turning quickly. I suspect there is still air in the system. I would have thought it would have all bled out by now. Any suggestions?
Well I found the two volume set of 1989 Toyota Truck manuals on Ebay and bought them for $45.00. They are great! The bleeding procedure for the power steering involves a bleeder valve that is real hard to see. This weekend I will check to see if any air bubbles come out.
There is also a pretty detailed description of how to change the fluid out. Wish I had done that. Hated to mix old ATF fluid with the new.
The pressure side hose developed a leak today on my 89 22RE 2wd. Found a new hose at a local auto parts supplier. Got the banjo bolt out OK but the other end that screws into the PS unit won't budge. It is a 17 mm compresssion connection. A 17 mm wrench will round the edges of the connector and a 17 mm flare nut wrench fits fine but flexes enough to begin to slip. I thought of cutting the tubing to allow a 17 mm 6 point socket to fit, but I am afraid metal fines mght drop into the PS unit.
The 88 manual I downloaded showed a SST being used. Anyone know what that is? Any suggestions short of taking the whole PS unit out of the truck. I am afraid of breaking the connector off in the PS unit.
Did you need to remove the radiator to replace this high-pressure hose? I have a 90, V6 and it looks like that may be necessary. Thank you.
This hose split on me when I got home from work today. Sprayed fluid all over my header, making me think the truck was on fire! Going to pick up a replacement piece from Autozone later...
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Power steering hose replacement
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Like everything, their quality has dipped the past few years, but not their prices. Watching ebay for good quality older style tools is usually the best bet (when you have the luxury of waiting - which you didn't).
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