22RE 5 Speed Shifting Problems - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
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#1 Old 11-03-2009, 12:46 AM
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22RE 5 Speed Shifting Problems

I need some help on this one guys, I keep running into this same type of problem with my truck. I have fixed it multiple times but it always creeps back up on me. The problem is that I have extreme difficulty getting my truck into 1st from a dead stop. The only way to get it into first is to A) put some serious force into it or B) start off in 2nd just to get rolling, and first usually pops right in once the wheels turn a couple times.

Next step I replaced the shifter bushings, both the seat and the end piece. This seemed to solve to problem for quite some time, actually it felt like butter at first shifting through all 5 gears. I did this replacement about 3 months ago and now this!

Today I checked the tranny fluid level and everything was there. I did not change the fluid because it was last changed about 16,000 miles ago. The fluid looked fine to me, but I am not one to talk.

I also replaced the shifter itself about a year and a half ago with one from a wrecking yard to alleviate disengagement from a bent shifter. This fixed the problem and has worked well since.

I really don't know where to go from here, this is VERY irritating because as you may know us manual shifters shift into first at a stop constantly! Someone please help me and thank you in advance, any ideas are appreciated.

Thanks, Jake

1991 Pickup 22re 2 Wheel Drive. Fabtech UCA's, add-a-leaf, sway away torsion bars, 4 wheel drive front fenders and grille, 31X1050X15 BFG A/T's, Hella 500's, LCE short shifter, rebuilt steering, Optima Red Top, 4.56 gears, Detroit Truetrac, ENGBLDR timing chain kit. 120,000 miles running strong!


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#2 Old 11-03-2009, 05:04 AM
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Check your shifter seat bushing; they are a high wear item.

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#3 Old 11-03-2009, 10:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yakerat View Post
... Next step I replaced the shifter bushings, both the seat and the end piece. This seemed to solve to problem for quite some time, actually it felt like butter at first shifting through all 5 gears. I did this replacement about 3 months ago and now this!
Should last more than 3 mos tho.

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#4 Old 11-03-2009, 11:31 AM
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Are you using the hard plastic seat from marlincrawler.com, or the toyota soft rubber seat?

You can always open it up to see if it's worn out.

1993 Toyota T100 4WD 5-speed (Just over 54K!)
Formerly owned 1989 Toyota pickup 4WD 5-speed
Formerly owned 1985 Toyota Camry Turbo-Diesel
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#5 Old 11-03-2009, 12:57 PM
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I am using the hard plastic seat from MC. I have an extra, so I guess the next step would be to pull it all apart again, it's not hard, just a pain. HA

And YES I would think it would last more than 3 months!

1991 Pickup 22re 2 Wheel Drive. Fabtech UCA's, add-a-leaf, sway away torsion bars, 4 wheel drive front fenders and grille, 31X1050X15 BFG A/T's, Hella 500's, LCE short shifter, rebuilt steering, Optima Red Top, 4.56 gears, Detroit Truetrac, ENGBLDR timing chain kit. 120,000 miles running strong!


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#6 Old 11-03-2009, 01:04 PM
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Grease it up real good!

Let us know how it looks. I just replaced mine recently with the MC replacements.

1993 Toyota T100 4WD 5-speed (Just over 54K!)
Formerly owned 1989 Toyota pickup 4WD 5-speed
Formerly owned 1985 Toyota Camry Turbo-Diesel
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#7 Old 11-04-2009, 09:57 AM
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If a new clutch and pressure plate dont fix it, id say the flywheel was/ is machined outa spec.

Counting of course if the clutch slave/ master are workin right and are bled.

RN 44 Magnum
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#8 Old 11-05-2009, 06:03 AM
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I had the same symptoms with an old Celica. A leaky clutch master cylinder was the culprit.

** 1996 VW Taro (which is a rebadged 1995 Toyota Pickup 4X4 22RE IFS) **
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#9 Old 11-05-2009, 11:44 AM
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Hard to get into first can indicate ineffective synchros, which is what you get if you're using a GL-5 tranny fluid. If so, replace w/a synthetic GL-4 - Red Line MT-90 or Amsoil MTG - and you'll be amazed how much better it shifts. (Plus GL-5 fluids contain a sulfur compound that corrodes the brass synchros.) Summitracing.com carries the excellent MT-90 at a good price. (Differentials require GL-5; transfer can take either, but GL-5 probably better.)

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WARNING: I'm not a professional tech - use any advice at your own risk. Working on vehicles is risky: you can kill or maim yourself or damage your truck if you don't know what you are doing. It's your responsibility to get qualified help if you lack auto repair training/experience.
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#10 Old 11-05-2009, 07:49 PM
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clutch issue, most likely with the hydraulics.

Make sure the clutch hydraulic fluid is full.

Inspect under the dash to see if there is leakage at the back of the mastercylinder.

Mastercylinders can go bad without leaking, they can bypass internally

This usually happens after setting a while like overnight. But as it gets worse it can happen all the time.

Don't talk about it, Just do it!

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#11 Old 11-06-2009, 02:28 AM
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Master cylinder sounds like a great guess, I should have checked that out. Makes perfect sense, I'll let you know.

1991 Pickup 22re 2 Wheel Drive. Fabtech UCA's, add-a-leaf, sway away torsion bars, 4 wheel drive front fenders and grille, 31X1050X15 BFG A/T's, Hella 500's, LCE short shifter, rebuilt steering, Optima Red Top, 4.56 gears, Detroit Truetrac, ENGBLDR timing chain kit. 120,000 miles running strong!


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#12 Old 11-10-2009, 02:53 AM
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22re 5 speed shifting problem

Hey Yakerat. I seem to have the same symptoms. I have an ongoing thread trying to address the same symptoms as you describe. I am trying to diagnose the problem prior to having to r&r the transmission. One of the guys seems to think it could be the hydraulic clutch. I would agree that it could be suspect especially if it shows wet fluid around the master and/or slave. It would be nice to know if there is a spec for the travel of the arm at the slave as that would answer the master bypassing which is internal and would be difficult to pin-point. With my shifting situation, the moment I turn the engine off the trans shifts nicely through all of the gears, but while running is where I have the problem. At a stop, it will not go smoothly into gear and will grind going into reverse. once rolling it will shift, but not as smoothly as it should. while slowing up for a red traffic light, I could down shift to 1st at approx 5-10 mph and just hold it in gear, but would rather find the problem with out just replacing parts. I have already replaced shifter bushings from marvin crawler and replaced trans oil with Sta-lube GL-4. You know, you are in Carsbad and I am in Los Angeles. It could just be a So Cal thing. he-he
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#13 Old 11-10-2009, 06:25 AM
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I don't know if its related but for a week my truck started to shift really hard. I check the reservoir and it was empty! Filled it up and still not any better.
I then adjusted the clutch pedal and it works like new! Hope this helps and good luck.
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#14 Old 11-10-2009, 06:35 AM
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What you are describing is caused by the clutch dragging, (not releasing fully). This can be caused by a problem with the clutch disc or pressure plate, But almost always it is a hydraulic issue.

Having worked on cars for a living for nearly 30 years, I can usually tell the difference by the way it feels. But since I'm not there I can't feel what your's is doing.

First make sure the toe play is set properly. basically there should be a small amount of play in the pedal to allow the mastercylinder to come all the way out. If there is no play, the clutch will not automaticaly adjust and eventually will start to slip. If there is too much play, the clutch will drag.

when you press the clutch you should feel steady pressure all the way down.
If it is really "spongy" at the top you may have air in the system. If that is the case bleed it.

If it is bypassing it may feel normal, But if you keep your foot on it and even bring it up close to where it should engage, you may find it looses some of it's pressure near the top.

Like I said, if I was there I could probably tell you in a minute.

But, alas, I am not.

Don't talk about it, Just do it!

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#15 Old 11-10-2009, 05:21 PM
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Send the man an airplane ticket!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vicoor View Post
What you are describing is caused by the clutch dragging, (not releasing fully). This can be caused by a problem with the clutch disc or pressure plate, But almost always it is a hydraulic issue.

Having worked on cars for a living for nearly 30 years, I can usually tell the difference by the way it feels. But since I'm not there I can't feel what your's is doing.

First make sure the toe play is set properly. basically there should be a small amount of play in the pedal to allow the mastercylinder to come all the way out. If there is no play, the clutch will not automaticaly adjust and eventually will start to slip. If there is too much play, the clutch will drag.

when you press the clutch you should feel steady pressure all the way down.
If it is really "spongy" at the top you may have air in the system. If that is the case bleed it.

If it is bypassing it may feel normal, But if you keep your foot on it and even bring it up close to where it should engage, you may find it looses some of it's pressure near the top.

Like I said, if I was there I could probably tell you in a minute.

But, alas, I am not.
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