Won't start need help BAD!!

[ALDavis]

22re won't crank. Engine turns over fine just won't hit a lick. I've checked everything I can think of. I have no clue what to do next. Any suggestions would be awesome. Also new to the forum hope to get to know you guys.

[fourwd1]

Basics, are you getting fuel to the injectors and spark to the plugs?

[ALDavis]

Yeah I'm gettin fuel and I've got spark. All fuses I've checked are good. I just don't know. I just got this truck and was told eithere the hg or the head was bad that it was skipping two cylindars. Well I know why #1 was skipping so I'm not sure there's anything wrong with the head. I was told they could roll start it. Don't know

[HEAVY_GD]

It could be a number of things, has it ever run since you've had it?

Could be out of time, or a plug wires arent in the right order.

[Raffaelli]

If the plug wires are sparking, good chance IGN system is ok.

Now how did you check its getting fuel? Injector pulse? Does it have fuel pressure.

I would think all but the worst head gasket falures it would try to run.

[ALDavis]

Got it to start by roll start. #1 is not firing. Took the head off and it's bad! So I'm gonna rebuild the motor. The head had a crack between 3 and 4 and 2 and 3. #1 looked like hell. Anyone know where I can find a head?

[HEAVY_GD]

Junk/salvage yard?

[Twisted Sid]

http://engnbldr.com/

[atazman]

Please let me know what you found wrong. My 92 3VZ-E won't start either.

Atazman

[sb5walker]

For either a 22re or 3vze, using a multimeter or test light, look for power on +B in the check connector when ignition on. If no, check EFI fuse on passenger inner fender, and IGN fuse in drivers kick panel. The EFI fuse should always have power, the IGN only when ignition is on. If the fuses are good and no power on +B, probably either bad EFI Main Relay or bad ignition switch (or bad connection). If the IGN fuse is receiving power, the switch is good and it must be the relay or a faulty connection.

Assuming +B has power and the Check Engine Light (CEL) illuminates when ignition turned on, check for codes and take action based on any that are found. Instructions for doing so can be found in the 'massive truck info' thread at the top of the forum listing.

If power on +B, try jumping +B and FP - that will bypass the circuit opening relay (COR) and send power to the fuel pump when ignition is on. After setting the jumper, have a helper turn ignition on (but not crank it) while you listen at the tank to make sure the pump runs. (Stay clear of wheels in case helper accidentally leaves in gear while cranking.) If pump doesn't run, either bad pump or bad connection to it. If pump does run, leave jumper attached & try to start. If it starts, either bad COR, or bad connection/ground.

If pump is okay, check for spark as mentioned. If no spark, check for power on positive terminal of ignition coil when ignition is on. If no power, either bad ignition switch, bad connection, possibly a blown fusible link.

If no spark but there IS power to the coil, most likely bad coil, possibly bad igniter or bad connection or blown signal coil in the distrib, or bad connection TO the signal coil. Could also be bad igniter ground - clean up the mounting bolts.

To check the ignition coil, make sure ignition off & disconnect all wires to coil. For both the 22re and 3vze, between positive & neg terminals of coil should be .36 to .55 ohms (that's right - about half an ohm), and between positive terminal and high tension terminal (where cable attaches) should be between 9,000 - 15,400 ohms (9k -15.4k ohms). Those are the specs when coil is cold. Unfortunately it's possible for a coil to pass this test and still be bad. But it's not real common.

For the 22re, the resistance of the signal coil in the distrib should be 185-275 ohms. Air gap between the signal rotor lobes and the signal coil projection should be .2 - .4 mm (0.008 - 0.016 in).

In the 3vze distributor there are 3 signal coils: two camshaft and one crankshaft position signals. Between G1 & G- and between G2 & G- on the distributor side of the connector there should be 125 to 200 ohms. Between Ne & G- should be 155-250 ohms. Air gap between all signal rotor lobes and the signal coil projections should be .2 - .4 mm (0.008 - 0.016 in).

If pump is running and spark is good, maybe the injectors aren't firing. Easiest way to check is to press the end of the metal rod of a mechanics stethoscope against the side of an injector while a helper cranks the motor. If the injector is firing, the clicks will be loud and clear. If no clicks, check for power at any injector when ignition is on. If no power, either bad ignition switch or bad connection.

The ecu fires the injectors by grounding them on terminals No. 10 & No. 20. If injectors have power when ignition is on, verify wiring between injectors and ecu by looking for power on terms No. 10 & No. 20 when ignition is on. If no power, bad connection. If they do have power, the ecu probably is not getting an IGF confirmation signal from the igniter. Cause would be bad wiring between igniter & ecu, bad igniter, or possibly bad ignition coil or bad connection between coil & igniter, or between coil and distributor.

If all that checks out, run a fuel pressure test to make sure fuel is making it to the fuel rails, and run a compression test to verify that the cylinders have adequate compression.

Good luck!

[atazman]

Hi SB5Walker......

Your response is certainly appreciated. On another post, I mentioned all the things I have done to test my trucks distributor, coil, igniter, and for both spark and fuel. I used the logic you presented in your writeup. I'm to the point where I see no alternative but to replace the most likely problem part, and work on down the list until I find something that solves the problem.

I would like to send you an E-Mail to inquire further about the likelihood of the problem being in the distributor and/or igniter. If you are available to share some more of your knowledge with me, would you please send me an E-Mail: atazman"at"sbcglobal"dot"net.

Thanks.....

atazman