Power steering hose replacement - 3vz - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
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#1 Old 12-22-2009, 02:38 PM
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Power steering hose replacement - 3vz

I should have looked more carefully, but after replacing my pwr steering pump with a rebuilt, I found that the leak was in the high pressure hose. The hose has a metal junction about halfway down the length and the leak is there (after removing the foam insulation from around the hose it can plainly be seen).

My question is whether or not the pump has to be removed (again) to replace the hose, or if it can be replaced with the pump in place. Furthermore, does the gearbox need to be removed - there doesn't seem to be a lot of room to remove the bolt with the steering box mounted?

Where to buy a replacement would also be a help.

Any insight or experience with this task appreciated.

thx.
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#2 Old 12-22-2009, 09:21 PM
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If you have the correct tools you should be able to remove the hose from the gear box w/o pulling the box.
A crows-foot line-wrench works good, IIRC.

As for the pump end of the hose, how difficult was it when you replaced the pump?

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#3 Old 01-11-2010, 03:42 PM
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Thanks. I've been putting this off but am now officially sick of replacing fluid. I'll give it a DIY try. The connection at the pump was a bear when replacing the pump. The threads in the pump housing gave way easier than the outside threads so I had to maneuver a second wrench in there to hold the hose connection still. No fun. Hopefully the other end will be easier. I've also found the dang hose to be about 3x the cost of the rebuilt pump.

-Jeff
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#4 Old 01-11-2010, 04:06 PM
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Good luck. I sorta remember breaking them free at the steering gear to be a biatch also.
On one of my Toys I cut out a section of the inner fender to gain wrench access.

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#5 Old 01-11-2010, 08:40 PM
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I jerry rigged mine because I dont have 160 bucks for a replacement hose, i cut the outside rubber off and stuck the metal part in the other side of the hose and reefed on it with two hose clamps. Seems to work good so far, no leaks or bursts.

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#6 Old 01-26-2010, 06:37 PM
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^^statement retracted, my whole engine bay is now rustproof

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#7 Old 01-26-2010, 06:39 PM
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#8 Old 03-16-2010, 02:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joelm716 View Post
I jerry rigged mine because I dont have 160 bucks for a replacement hose, i cut the outside rubber off and stuck the metal part in the other side of the hose and reefed on it with two hose clamps. Seems to work good so far, no leaks or bursts.
I have a leak in the same place, apparantly a common problem with the high-pressure side power steering line.

Are you saying you cut the rubber PS hose above the metal crimp fitting, and then cut the metal line just below the crimp fitting (thus removing the leaking factory crimp fitting), then shoved the metal line into the rubber hose, then secured it using 2 hose clamps? If so, because of the high pressure, it seems like the fluid would still pass by the clamps. So, is this still working OK for you? No leaks? Thanks, Jerry
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#9 Old 08-10-2010, 01:36 PM
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I thought I'd follow up on this. I ended up buying a third-party pressure hose off Amazon for about $50 and went for it. Put the front up on ramps and got dirty. I did get the banjo connection off the steering box without having to pull the box it but it was a bear. I had to loosen the steering box, then drive a wooden wedge between the box and the inside of the wheel well housing to provide enough (just barely) clearance to remove the bolt. Then, of course the curves in the metal at the connections were a little different than the factory hose...luckily I got it to fit. This DIY job almost made me throw in the towel...almost.
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#10 Old 08-10-2010, 11:18 PM
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That which does not kill us makes us stronger
Glad you got it taken care of and found a more cost effective replacement.

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#11 Old 08-12-2010, 09:21 PM
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The threads in the pump housing indeed gave way easier than the outside threads and I also used a second wrench to hold the hose connection still. For the inboard bolt I used a longer adjustable and wedged the end of the handle on nearby structure. For the outboard bolt I put a second adjustable along with a pipe that I had to make a makeshift breaker bar. Took very little effort to break torque and it was off.

Now, the bolts in the steering box are driving me freakin' crazy. I have a 17mm line wrench but when I try to break torque it just starts to round the bolt. I also tried a Craftsman regular 17mm wrench with the same result. I know it's a 17mm since the 16mm is too small. Any suggestions on how you were able to break torque on the steering box?

Last edited by hanleyrj; 08-13-2010 at 09:20 PM. Reason: Added more info.
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#12 Old 08-20-2010, 04:15 PM
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Quote:
Any suggestions on how you were able to break torque on the steering box?
I saw in another post that you solved this (good job), but for completions sake I'll add that I had no problem breaking this free. California vehicle, after all (I had my share of bloody knuckles when I lived in MA).
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