My "how to" replace the transfer case output seal. Took about 2 1/2 hours while taking photos. Done on a 1992 4WD Pickup 22RE. Hope this helps others on this board in the future.
If you have fluid splatter like below then this may solve your problem.
1. I put the tranny in gear, locked the hubs, and put it in L4. Set the parking break.
2. I put a little mark so I could generally know the bolt holes were matched up the same way when I removed it. (don't know if you need to or not)
3. Using two 14mm wrenches and a ratchet and 14mm socket I removed the bolts.
4. Used a jack stand to hold the shaft up and in place.
5. This is how it looks after removing the shaft.
6. Using a small blade screw driver I undid the stake in the nut as best I could. Then used an impact wrench and 30MM socket it came off real easily.
7. Then grab a screw driver or a tiny pry bar and get the washer out.
8. Then wiggle/pull off the companion flange. (A little fluid will come out so have a rag handy directly below it)
9. Now get the seal out. I used a little seal puller. Have your rag handy again below it as more fluid will come out.
10. Here are the four parts you've just removed. Also, you can see the part numbers of the OEM replacement parts. The nut and washer were definitely re-usable, but since I already bought new ones I used them and kept the old ones as spares.
The approximate price of the items from the dealer are: Seal - $6.50, Nut - $4.30, Washer - $2.20
11. Using a brass brush and carb cleaner, I cleaned all the old toyota red fipg off of the companion flange.
12. Cleaned off all the old fipg from the...whatever you call it.
13. Here's a good shot of the area where you stake the nut so you know what you're dealing with. It's actually a pretty big divot.
14. Put the new seal in using a big socket or carefully tapping it in evenly with whatever you have. Don't forget to put some grease on the inside, I did so had to use a brush to coat it.
15. I put some grease on the companion flange area that meets the new seal. On mine you could see the two lines from from the seal as it spins around it but there wasn't a groove. Then put it in the same general way you pulled it out.
16. Grab your toyota red fipg (or whatever you're going to use) and put a good amount inside that concave area that's created by the companion flange and the spindle thingy.
17. Grab the washer and put some fipg on side that goes on first (more or less just packing more fipg in the same area. Then I put some on the other side of the washer and the back side of the nut. In hindsight, I don't think putting more fipg on the washer or nut matters much, but someone mentioned it in another thread so I did.
18. Grab your torque wrench and the 30MM socket and torque to 90 FT LBS.
19. Now stake the new nut or re-stake the old nut. I had a hard time because of the angle I had, but managed to get it done ok. I also squirted in some loctite for good measure.
20. Now put the shaft back in place and the four bolts. Torque to 54 FT LBS. I have other vehicles to drive so I let the fipg dry for over 24 hours before driving. I don't know how long you need to wait, if any.
If you need to replace the fluid that was lost during the leak, the below is from the online pickup manual (Page MT-24). I lined out the "GL 5" since most agree that GL 4 is the way to go. Some popular synthetic brands that are used are Amsoil, Redline, and Royal Purple.