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Old 03-28-2005, 09:23 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Heater core on '93 pickup

Heater core went on my '93 p/u and was wondering if anyone here has replaced theirs? How difficult to replace? I am hoping to replace it myself but not sure how difficult. Any advice! Thanks.
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Old 03-28-2005, 11:15 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Speaking of heater cores, mine does not seem to want to cool down.. the heat just blasts no matter what what I have the temperature setting at... not too big of a problem, but I was thinkin it'd be nice to have the fresh cool highway air coming in through those hot summer months.
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Old 09-25-2006, 03:00 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bugdude
Heater core went on my '93 p/u and was wondering if anyone here has replaced theirs? How difficult to replace? I am hoping to replace it myself but not sure how difficult. Any advice! Thanks.
yeah you and me both. i hear its a minor bithc - full day job - reading the other site. joe local here tells me go in by 1st pulling the top dashboard off for my 94 standard sr5 22re no ac. i also hear that a fair number of new heater cores get damaged banging them during installation. i am gonna try to have mine done by a moonlighting pro. my haynes is not helpfull. their "typical" instructions dont apply to mine. im gonna pop for the factory manual and wiring schematic. helpfull hint i got was plenty full plastic sheeting and absorbent old carpet for antifreeze splasing out during the removal. i guess it would be well to not bang wrench into windshield too much removing fasteners in the defrost housing. i like marking tags and notebook notes on any electrical coming apart. for me $1 box of 100 enve lopes pencil note on each goes long way towards organising every single screw and bolt that comes off. more honed people do this with egg carton or ice cube tray. best of luck. details on your job appreciated cordials cheech [smiley inside bell motostar 3 , nomex smoking attire]
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Old 09-25-2006, 06:14 AM   #4 (permalink)
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There is a '93 FSM link at the top of this forum; should tell you everything you need to know in addition to what cheech said...
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Old 09-27-2006, 12:02 AM   #5 (permalink)
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good news my friend

leisure cruise bugdude. if your 93 is like my 94. no rocket science or clever oriental puzzles. go in from the passenger side & middle low. [country dillweed was toying with me when he said pull dash - **** jewish word for disagreeable person , golf move.]give yourself $400 or so of time to work with. pull seat or seats at the very beginning. the beginner hacks and cheats are high quality $3.50 plastic trigger sprayer bottle with long pickup tube to stick into both the copper tubes at the firewall - pump the antifreeze out into a pepsi bottle.(after this i didnt find the plastic sheet or the soakup protector carpet necessary. ) matching colored stickers on each mating corner of the plastic. 6 rubber bands 3 colors to mark the hose connections. sandwich baggies masking tape each fastener to each hole it came out of. 1 tight access nut wanting 10mm deep socket vise grip on socket to break it then small stubby handle to remove. [potential to lose that 10 mm nut might as well have a spare] the 2 spring clips on the center of the case stay on. the case stays together top and bottom. it pulls toward rear of car after unbolted & hose off tubes engine side of firewall.. factory hose clamps i hated them first time i set eyes on them - but save them for the OEM look in case you ever sell your car. progressive levels of force to make the plastic ducting pop apart. i started 1 or 2 duct peices over towards driver to open it up. [soothing herb product makes this part go easier] 2 cable actuator cables come off. extra simple. wanting to replace 3 formed shaped rubber hoses while doing this thing. obtain them first then just remove old ones pronto presto subito straight razor blade small vise grip handle no hassle. tubes outlets bend real easy trying to remove stuck hose with pliers. IMPORTant- the driver side one is a separate piece needs to be saved. delicate with razor next to the rubber in the firewall , save that. hopefully ill have some step by steps up soon. i gotta read this info bulletin other poster was talkin about . good sharing with you Bugman. FREE JUSTIN -[miller time emoticon] no smiley until justin is free . .......

Last edited by cheech14; 09-28-2006 at 07:34 PM. Reason: make concise , correct advise
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Old 09-28-2006, 04:15 PM   #6 (permalink)
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not finding that 93 fsm link ??
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Old 09-29-2006, 02:14 AM   #7 (permalink)
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1.$400 worth of time.2. 2 picnic tables worth of tablespace. 3. long handle full size phillips , short handle full sized phillips. 8 & 10 mm socket , 10 mm deep socket , 12mm 14mm wrenches same ,sockets. stubby handle , regular handle , short extension , medium extension. every pliers and vise grips you can lay hans on. specialist side clamp pliers if your el cheapo or baja spares kit minded want to save some expensive hose. pocket mirror. drop light. thickest grade wire 1/4 inch bend at end to put defrost flap hole back on plastic lever post..[last part of heater core box to go back on , farthest to rear of car]4. thinnest adhesive backed foam at store 1 inch wide if available[weatherstripping] 10 foot will cover your heater core. double that if replacing some foam on the ducting. gallon anti freeze , funnell , coolant change stuff. quality plastic trigger sprayer with long pickup tube. way to get hold of half dozen toyota screws n fasteners that will be missing. 6 hose clamps. [take time & find the best way to place them] special toyota plumbing clip and o ring where the pivot tube goes unto the heater core. clean carpet or such like for laying on the floor of your cab. for mine , perfect fit will eventually require tubing bender - like experienced plumbing store at the good store that does work on the table. for you yours might fit perfect [ i couldnt wait the extra shipping time for the primo goods] n that starts ya out - glove box & frame are first to come off , make full notes on each piece that comes off & each step, then re phrase your notes as if explaining to simpleton. butcher paper tracing each peice might not be a bad idea - notes on the same. cakewalk. you can handle. you know how. ps mark the actuator cables - the length of them thats held in the clamps.

Last edited by cheech14; 10-01-2006 at 02:41 PM.
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Old 06-07-2008, 11:59 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Has anybody replaced the "hood" on a 93 pickup dash? This is the approximately 2'' wide bezel that surrounds the instrument cluster. I removed the broken one but then found the attaching screws are concealed underneath; means the piece it attaches to must also be removed. It is not obvious to me how this second piece comes out. It appears to have some clips securing it; but, I'm reluctant to just pull it out.
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Old 06-07-2008, 02:43 PM   #9 (permalink)
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drgreg,
Consider starting a new thread, rather than resurrecting this old, and unrelated, post.
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Old 06-09-2008, 12:15 AM   #10 (permalink)
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re reading this thing i realise that clarity is wanted in my posting ... ...
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Old 06-09-2008, 05:34 PM   #11 (permalink)
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the diy sticky at the top of this forum
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