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Old 02-14-2006, 08:10 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Ignition Timing 22r

On the 22r there are four settings on the timing cover
1,2,8,5,0 Where should the timing be set to? I just rebuilt my motor and would like to make sure it is timed correctly. Please help, I've never timed a motor.
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Old 02-15-2006, 08:41 PM   #2 (permalink)
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me and my dad just timed my motor yesterday and the markings should actually be on the driveshaft pulley(s). the factory service manual says to put it at the 5 degree mark with max rpms at about 950 and also you have to plug the hoses on the vacum thing on the distributer. put the plugs on the hoses because they suck not blow. also it might depend on your elevation. i believe if you're higher you run it more advanced if you're lower retard it
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Last edited by 84yotapup; 02-15-2006 at 08:51 PM.
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Old 02-18-2006, 10:13 PM   #3 (permalink)
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22R Timing on '86 2wd

I'm confused - I just adjusted my own timing for the first time, and thought I had it right. My Chilton's book recommended 5 degrees BTDC, as you guys did, but the sticker on the underside of my hood said to set it to 0 degrees. I did that (0) and the engine sounds great. Instead of removing the vacuum lines (I've got 2 - HAC?) at the distributor, I just pinched them off with vise grips. Not great for the hoses, I'm guessing, but does anyone know if doing this has the same effect as removing the hoses at the distributor and plugging the ends of the hoses? What adds to the confusion is the book doesn't say whether the vacuum side of things or the distributor side of things needs the plugging - this is hard to explain. Is the distributor being open to the air the same as pinching off the hoses while they're still attached? I guess I don't really understand the concept of what the vacuum does and that's making it hard to ask this...
Retarding the timing to 5 degrees BTDC made the engine sound like crap, so I assume I've done the right thing - any comments?
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Old 02-19-2006, 12:37 AM   #4 (permalink)
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to help clear the function of vacuum advance. The distributor changes timing based on engine vacuum. The engine tells the distributor (via vacuum hoses from the intake manifold to the dizzy) where to set the timing.

to set the timing you have to disable the vacuum advance on the distributor. To do this...

disconnect the vacuum advance hoses from the distributor. plug the hoses not the distributor. The vacuum supply comes from the intake manifold (via the hoses) and supplies vacuum to the distributor. Set the timing...
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Old 03-16-2006, 02:48 AM   #5 (permalink)
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First Of All Its Not 1 2 8 5 0. Its 12 8 5 0.the 22r With A Carb Should Be Set At 12 Degrees With The Hoses Connected And 0 With Them Plugged,if You Have A 22 Re With The Fuel Injection Then It Should Be Set At 5 With The Check Connector Terminals Grounded.i Hope This Helps
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Old 03-16-2006, 06:56 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yotaraser
First Of All Its Not 1 2 8 5 0. Its 12 8 5 0.the 22r With A Carb Should Be Set At 12 Degrees With The Hoses Connected And 0 With Them Plugged,if You Have A 22 Re With The Fuel Injection Then It Should Be Set At 5 With The Check Connector Terminals Grounded.i Hope This Helps
I have the 22RE, where are the CHECK CONNECTOR TERMINALS?
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Old 03-16-2006, 01:04 PM   #7 (permalink)
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First set to 0 and get running then you will set it to 5 degrees off top dead center... if you hear ir back fire out of the intake this is 360 out and need to turn the crank around one time back to 0
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Old 03-16-2006, 03:52 PM   #8 (permalink)
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The Check Connector Terminals Are On The Driver Side Fenderbetween The Power Steering Reservoir And The Air Filter Box. There Are Four Plugs In There But On Mine Its One Of The Longest 2 It Only Has 2 Plugs Inside It Run A Jumper Wire Between The 2 Sockets If You Have The Right One The Idle Will Drop A Good Bit, Hook Up A Timing Light And Set At 5 Degrees Unplug The Wire And Drive It.
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Old 02-27-2009, 07:05 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yotaraser View Post
First Of All Its Not 1 2 8 5 0. Its 12 8 5 0.the 22r With A Carb Should Be Set At 12 Degrees With The Hoses Connected And 0 With Them Plugged
i have the dist lines connected it's at 0. I disconnect the lines,it's at 0. If i switch the lines,i do get advance.Is my vac adv defective?
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Old 09-04-2011, 04:53 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Sorry to dig up an old thread, but it had some info I needed. I just bought an '86 4x4 long bed 22r. I think the chain has stretched and skipped a tooth. Does anyone know a good thread that gives a step-by-step to replacing the timing chain? I know chiltons is a good resource, but talking to someone who's done it and can say "watch out for..." is even better. Thanks for your help, guys!
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Old 09-05-2011, 04:41 AM   #11 (permalink)
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This is way better than talking..http://www.yotatech.com/f128/toyota-.../#post50938935
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Old 09-05-2011, 08:27 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Perfect! Thanks!
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Old 12-04-2011, 05:53 PM   #13 (permalink)
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USA

Quote:
Originally Posted by Martymitoy View Post
First set to 0 and get running then you will set it to 5 degrees off top dead center... if you hear ir back fire out of the intake this is 360 out and need to turn the crank around one time back to 0
I just checked the timing on my '86 4wd 22r w/2bbl. I just bought it two weeks ago. It had a nasty backfire/afterfire/muffler explosion (not exactly sure of where it's coming from). I thought it might be because the truck needed so I changed the plugs, wires, rotor and distributor. The Chilton "Tune up Specs" say to set the timing to 0 degrees with vacuum lines disconnected. I did this and the timing is at 5 degrees once they are reconnected. Engines sounds good. Backfire is only slightly diminished though.
I'm confused about your crank 360 degree out comment. Is it possible for the timing to be correct and still have the crank 360 degrees out? And could this still be the cause of my backfire issue?
I'm still trying to determine if the location of the shotgun blasts I hear is from the intake manifold or if it's exhaust related. The one thing I can say is that the noise sounds like it's coming from somewhere under and behind the driver's seat and is usually accompanied by what sounds like a wire brush rubbing against metal near the cat and metal banging together. Is it possible that the cat is fried inside and is causing back pressure that in turn is causing the blasts? To add to the dilemma, there is also an exhaust leak somewhere between the exhaust manifold and the cat. When I bought the truck the muffler was blown out at the seem and there was no pipe leaving the muffler. I think the muffler blew from back pressure. I have since replaced the exhaust from the cat back (I didn't notice the aforementioned exhaust leak until after I replaced the muffler and tailpipe). Any help will be greatly appreciated.
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