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Old 07-18-2006, 04:34 PM   #1 (permalink)
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88 Toyota 22R-E Oil leaks

My son has an 88 Toyota Pickup. 4x4, 22R-E engine, and it leaks oil like a
sive. I look under the car after he has driven it for a while, and it lookas
as though an oil bomb has exploded under it. I know something needs to be
fixed, but I am having a VERY hard time locating the leak. It seems to be
really bad on the passengers side of the car (oil all the way under the
fender wells). But the oil seems to get everywhere underneath.

I was wondering if anyone had a suggestion as to the most likely place those
engines leaked, and any suggestions on methods to find it. Any and all
pointers/suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks
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Old 07-19-2006, 07:17 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Harmonic balancer repair sleeve/speedy sleeve (seal saver sleeve, balancer repair sleeve,crank seal saver,sleeveNseal ring) slides over shaft:

Felpro # 16214=$5
Future # 21-2514 (aluminum shaft sleeve included)
NAPA repair sleeve # 99177 (Mack PDC,National,Car Quest)
Pioneer repair sleeve (Silver Seal) # HB-4133
CS4128

attached with some epoxy or use Loctite 609 or 242 or put some red RTV and fill that groove before you put it on also look in the yellow pages under “bearing suppliers”.

For a picture:

http://chicago-rawhide.com/auto/speedi/speedi.htm

Front crank oil seal (front input shaft seal):

Fed Mogul (National,Timken Seals) # 710345
Toyota # 90311-45014 (brown, 7 mm thick) & 90311-30115,
Chicago Rawhide # CR17758 (9 mm thick) or CR550294 (7mm thick)
Beck Arnley # 0522144

Toyota # 90311-80010,90311-80001 (the earlier 20R & 22R seal),90311-80010 (is the improved version. It is made out of silicone and has double lip for better sealing).

This info provided by EB:there are 3 versions of the speedy sleeve:

1)one is light steel with spray chrome flashing(yuk)
2)one is steel with chrome plating
3)and the good ones are all stainless steel and they are made in Canada.

http://www.barneymc.com/toy_root/techneek/frntseal.htm

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1985 Toyota 4-Runner,solid front straight axle,factory cruise control,sunroof,22R-E,W56,RN60LV-MSEK,rusted rear step/towing chrome bumper with 250 000 KM
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Old 07-19-2006, 09:14 AM   #3 (permalink)
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has he taken off the valve cover anytime recent? you might not have sealed it very good or you could just need a new gasket. also i found that my dipstick was so old that it just vibrated loose and sprayed oil everywhere. i got a new one and the oil level hasn't gone down since i changed the oil.
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Old 07-19-2006, 01:19 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Front Seal

I cleaned it aup a bit, and it APPEARS to be the front seal. I am taking it from the postst that along with replacing the front crank seal, that I should also replace the oil pump gasket and put in the shaft repair sleeve.

I was looking at my Chiltons for the truck, and the process seemed rasonable for an amature mechanic (i.e., I have worked on many engines, but don't have hydraulic lifts and I will have to buy a crankshaft pulley removal tool). Is my impression correct?

Also, I am thinking of getting the Factory Service Manuals, as the Chiltons seems a bit sparse on the nitty gritty. Any thoughts?

Phil
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Old 07-19-2006, 01:36 PM   #5 (permalink)
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If it's that much oil, then the oil pump o-ring is split, too. I've had 2 go on me, and it makes a real mess like what you're describing. The haynes manual is good for directions and pics.

Usual leaks are:
1) the valve cover gasket
2)distributor o-ring
3)front main oil seal
4)oil pump o-ring
5)EGR crossover plate that bolts onto the back of the cylinder head
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Old 07-19-2006, 03:02 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 88Redtoy
I cleaned it aup a bit, and it APPEARS to be the front seal. I am taking it from the postst that along with replacing the front crank seal, that I should also replace the oil pump gasket and put in the shaft repair sleeve.

I was looking at my Chiltons for the truck, and the process seemed rasonable for an amature mechanic (i.e., I have worked on many engines, but don't have hydraulic lifts and I will have to buy a crankshaft pulley removal tool). Is my impression correct?

Also, I am thinking of getting the Factory Service Manuals, as the Chiltons seems a bit sparse on the nitty gritty. Any thoughts?

Phil
In North America the 22R & 22R-E s are used in the following:

22R
1981-82 Toyota Corona
1981-83 Celica
1981-87 Toyota pickup (up to 1990 on 2wd)
1984-87 Toyota 4-Runner

22R-E (22REC=California emissions=extra charcoal canister)
1983-85 Celica
1985-95 Toyota pickup
1985-95 Toyota 4-Runner

22RTE (Turbo EFI)
1985-87 Toyota 4-Runner
1985-87 Toyota pickup

Any Public Library in your area would have the Factory service manual,Haynes,Chiltons,Mitchells,Clymers,Bentley and Toyota repair books.

Free AutoZone service manuals at:

http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiB...pair_guide.jsp

1985 Toyota 4-Runner & pickup Factory Service Manual:

http://www.truckporn.com/tech/1985toyotatruckfsm.pdf

1993 Toyota Pickup Service Manual:

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm

2003 (2001-2004) Toyota Tacoma Factory Service Manual:

http://www.junglecode.com/toyota/tacoma/2003_fsm
http://misc.mmdsi.net/tacoma/tacoma-manual

FSM (factory service manual) can be acquired in several ways:

Toyota Material Distribution Center
750 West Victoria St
Rancho Dominguez/Compton,CA 90220-5538
USA
Ph:1-800-622-2033 (outside CA)(M-F: 7-5 PST)
Ph:1-800-443-7656 (inside CA)
Ph:1-310-818-4630 (in or outside CA)
Speak to Beverly or Deloris
http://techinfo.toyota.com/public/main/mdc.html
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/FSM.shtml

1)buy a used one off e-bay
2)some Toyota dealerships may give you one or sell it for $10-20 (used) as most Toyota dealerships don't repair many old Toyotas and no longer need the service manual
3)some public libraries sell their old books as they are not in demand any longer
4)some free buy & sell classified papers,websites and bulletin boards may have some used ones for sale
5)some junk yards may have one laying around
6)some Toyota specialty garages may have one laying around and no longer use it as the vehicle may be too old and those mechanics probably have so much experience that they could publish their own factory service manual with corrections and "real world repair tips"
7)if someone has the FSM maybe they could scan all of the pages and post it on a site for all of us to download or view.

For scanned pages of factory service manuals for other engines:

http://www.sor.com/torque.html
http://www.brian894x4.com/Scannedmanual.html
http://www.birfield.com/modules.php?...howpage&pid=77
http://toyotadiesel.com/photopost/sh...ry.php?cat=507
http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~scorp/surf/1KZ-TE.pdf
http://www.showmesome.info/hilux/info/manuals/1KZ-TE
http://surf.mactherapy.com/1KZ-TE.pdf
http://surf.mactherapy.com/parts
http://www.spyderchat.com/1zzfe.pdf
http://files.matrixvibe.net/docs/1zzfe.pdf
http://landcruiser.free.fr/mans
http://surf.mactherapy.com
http://www.turbosupras.com/pages/technical/tsrm.htm
http://www.lieblweb.com/tacoma/Mecha...rams/index.htm
http://perso.wanadoo.fr/adherence.4x...techniques.htm
http://perso.wanadoo.fr/adherence.4x4/index.htm
http://www.asatraction4x4.cl/html
http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/techsite/downloads.htm
http://www.grubinski.com/grubinski/a...toyota.manuals
http://www.carsoft.ru/files/4runner95di.exe
http://www.hotrodder.com/kwkride/tech.html
http://aarc.epnet.com/application/8578/8578.htm
http://aarc.epnet.com/application/9316/9316.htm
(1997–2000=4-Runner,pickup,T100,Tacoma,Tundra,Landcruiser)
http://www.bedlib.org/ebsco.html
then click on “AARC” or “Auto repair reference center”

Sidney® ™
Repairs tv's,vcr's,home/car audio out of my home
E-mail:sidneybek@yahoo.com
Dartmouth,Nova Scotia
Canada
1985 Toyota 4-Runner,solid front straight axle,factory cruise control,sunroof,22R-E,W56,RN60LV-MSEK,rusted rear step/towing chrome bumper with 250 000 KM
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Old 07-20-2006, 12:10 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 88Redtoy
I cleaned it aup a bit, and it APPEARS to be the front seal. I am taking it from the postst that along with replacing the front crank seal, that I should also replace the oil pump gasket and put in the shaft repair sleeve.

I was looking at my Chiltons for the truck, and the process seemed rasonable for an amature mechanic (i.e., I have worked on many engines, but don't have hydraulic lifts and I will have to buy a crankshaft pulley removal tool). Is my impression correct?

Also, I am thinking of getting the Factory Service Manuals, as the Chiltons seems a bit sparse on the nitty gritty. Any thoughts?

Phil
Given that you've read the Chiltons, seal removal and installation, etc, it's an easy fix. Pull the radiator for more space. A simple puller will do the job on the pulley. I haven't had to use one, but have one handy. Once you yank the pulley you'll find a groove of varying depth cut into the journal by the old seal. As stated by others, a seal saver sleeve will rectify this. However, it's a delicate part and easily mis-shapened if it's started crooked. If you don't have access to a small arbor press or a drill press(to be used as a press) let your local auto parts store with a machine shop install it for you. I've seen a few sleeves not work after being installed in the yard. If it's the original oil pump, it wouldn't be a bad idea to install a new one. Pretty cheap part. Regardless of whether you install a new one or an old one, make sure you prime it! . Hint: The oil pump gasket is an O ring, shaped like the oil pump, that fits into a groove on the pump. It'll want to fall out as you try to install the pump on the engine. I put four dabs of grease in each corner to hold it in place. Works every time. Make sure that you lube the new seal or the seal saver before installing the pulley. It's all pretty straightforward.

Last edited by xsacta; 07-20-2006 at 12:11 AM.
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Old 07-21-2006, 12:15 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Might make darn sure his oil filter is on snug and that it does not have two rubber filter o-rings stuck on the housing. When removing old oil filters ALWAYS ALWAYS make dang sure that the old oil filter rubber ring comes off WITH the filter and is not stuck on the housing. Always check were the SIMPLE LEAKS could occur first (valve cover gasket maybe?) before starting on the difficult places.....Best to clean engine REAL GOOD with engine GUNK, and then with car IN PLACE run engine and use flashlight to track the leak. Driving the car just throws the oil every which way which can make it very difficult to pin point.
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Old 08-09-2006, 08:29 PM   #9 (permalink)
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xsacta, is it that simple? I read that you had to drop the oil tank to remove the oil pump. My truck also leaks there, and I have been putting off the repair until I had enough time to raise the engine.

Did I misunderstand the manual or have I misunderstood you?

Last edited by Longstreet; 08-09-2006 at 08:30 PM.
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Old 08-10-2006, 01:12 AM   #10 (permalink)
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The oil pick-up tube is in the pan, the oil pump is on the front of the engine, behind the crankshaft pulley. Pull off the pulley, and you will see an aluminum piece bolted to the front of the timing cover (behind where the pulley was). THAT is the oil pump, and when you remove the pump remember exactly which bolt goes where. If you get the wrong bolt in the wrong hole, you will thread one of the bolts directly into the timing chain, causing damage to it and the bolt, as well as sending metal filings through the engine.
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