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Issue after caliper and rotor replacement

4K views 13 replies 7 participants last post by  funman1 
#1 ·
Okay my rear passenger side was rubbing the rotor so I had to replace them with the pads. The piston wouldn't budge and it looked like it was done for so I went ahead and replaced the caliper on the passenger rear side. Everything went together very well and I have decent experience working on cars. I noticed the rotor didn't need forcing for it to come off and that nothing holds it really in place. Of course the calipers keep it lined up but it's just secured in place when the wheel is tightened down. I say this mainly for confirmation though.

So that's what I've completed and noticed when replacing those few items. Oh and I did bleed the nipple until it was dripping. The pads, rotor and caliper went on with a breeze and looks perfect. Except when I drive....

Something is rubbing really bad now. It's tight and the car doesn't move without gas so it's obviously not done right. I started over and removed everything only to have the same issue. I'm thinking someone here has been through this and experienced what I am at the moment. I'm totally defeated right now and it's my only ride for our family so this needs to be fixed pronto. Please help, I know this community has the answer :|
 
#2 ·
If you replaced the rotor, pads and caliper, you may need a rotor shim to compensate for rotor runout.

Double check that the pad tensioner clips were depressed to allow the brake pad tab to enter correctly.
 
#3 ·
Rotor shim? WTF?

"my rear passenger side was rubbing the rotor so I had to replace them with the pads" Can you explain?

If you replaced the rotor, pads, and caliper with the correct parts, nothing should be rubbing.

I see a few items here that seem out of place.

You don't typically replace a rotor and pads on one side. They really should to be done in pairs. You can't properly bleed the new caliper by letting it drip. You need somebody as a helper or a proper bleeder.
 
#4 ·
I did forget that I had a very small metal clip left over. The tensioner clips were installed with brake grease btw. So you believe I need to shim it. I will try that in the morning.

Anyone else have any other ideas so I can cover all my bases? I feel like I'm missing something but hopefully it's the clip that I couldn't find where it goes.
 
#5 ·
zembonez
I've done brakes and rotors before and never had this issue. I only did 1 rotor because of money issues. I imagine I could get by for a week or two and then get the other side done as well. Just to get to work for now.

Could I have over tightened something? Why is it rubbing? Could this be because of not bleeding correctly?
 
#6 ·
To be more clear I have the pads for all wheels. Of course I'm changing in pairs. I'm only changing the rear passenger caliper and rotor because that's what I can afford and the only problem where it has rubbed. I need the corrected at the very least so I can get to work.

I didn't bleed the master cylinder does anyone think this is causing it to rub? I thought this would just make the brake pedal spongy or to the floor. I still have brakes. Just way too much obviously on the rear side I've worked on. Going to check the part numbers now.

Still need everything looks good. But I'm not ace certified as well....
 
#8 ·
Pad tabs ok?

I've had brand new pads come with the tab oversize, and it jams in the channel. Had to grind a bit of the tab away so there is free travel with the caliper. This is the area that gets a small amount of grease.

I've ALSO seen where brand new rotors hang up on the wheel studs, so they end up offcenter. The studs should have a small clearance to the rotors.

I haven't had to mess with rotor shims, but if the rotor needs to come out a tiny bit, that would be the solution.
 
#9 ·
My experience has always been that the caliper is free to slide a small distance back and forth on the caliper pins, thereby centering the caliper/pad assembly correctly over the rotor. I've never used a "rotor shim", let alone ever heard of one; that's a new one on me. Did you remove any visable rust from these pins and apply a light smear of silicone grease on to them when reassembling? Is the rotor and replacement caliper OEM Toyota parts or aftermarket?
 
#10 ·
I think you will find there is the "fixed" side of the caliper and the "moveable" side of the caliper. On these, the fixed side is the side with the piston, of which there is only one on this model. That assembly is attached with the two large bolts and has a fairly small clearance with the rotor. It is possible that the rotor will contact this assembly due to a bad dimension somewhere and not allow the rotor to turn. This would happen without any pads installed. The "moveable" side of the equation holds the other pad side and slides on the lubed pins, allowing the pads to center about the rotor.
I too, have never used a rotor shim.
 
#11 ·
Jack the rear up and confirm which wheel is binding.


Sounds like you removed the rear rotor. Did you do inadvertently tweak the parking brake mechanism?

Pads are free to move?
Did you grease the caliper slider pins?
 
#12 · (Edited)
That was my second thought; that the parking brake shoe assembly was dragging inside the new rotor after reassembly. Backing off the adjuster slightly should give you the clearance that you need.

@Dave : The caliper is mounted to the Torque Plate/Caliper Bracket via two slide pins and is allowed to move inward and outward slightly on these same lubed pins. Thereby "sandwiching" the rotor and applying braking force via both brake pads, nearly equally to the inside and outside surfaces of the rotor. **Just verified this movement by removing the left rear wheel to make sure that I was correct in making this statement** That's why it's so important to make sure these pins are rust free and lubed periodically. Otherwise the braking force will only be applied to and with one pad and this pad will wear extremely quickly while the other one will look "brand new".
p.s. - The little clip that was left over is probably the "squealer" that attaches to one brake pad. This clip will eventually contact the rotor and make a noise when the pad(s) needs replacement.
 
#13 ·
LL; you are absolutely correct. On the single piston setups, both sides have to float to center the pads; my bad. Was thinking of multi-piston, or not thinking at all.:surprise: Too much work on old BMW's with Ate brakes that made an indelible mark, i suppose.

What's left is to find out what is hitting what. If it's a piece of iron that touches the rotor, clearly that's the issue; If pad material, disc or parking, that's a different fix; but you already know this.
 
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