Over in http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/8...ander-1st-generation-2001-2007/1615466-window-not-working-driver-s-control.html there was some discussion about the driver's-side front master window and door lock control switch, it's ridiculous cost, and what alternatives are and are not available--mostly the latter, unfortunately.
I mentioned that I had ordered a 'Switch-Doctor' driver's-side front master window and door lock control switch ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07196JJLZ ) intended for use in the 2004 Lexus RX-330, in the hopes that there might be sufficient similarities between the two to get a working switch for just $42.50, instead of a king's ransom.
While I regret to inform you that the switch that I received DID NOT function as a fully-functioning, drop-in replacement for the Highlander switch; I am happy to inform you that tearing the Switch-Doctor offering apart, and swapping internal parts with the Highlander switch, got my OEM switch working perfectly.
At a total outlay of $42.50 (with free shipping), with no greasy-dusty salvage yard visits, I consider that to be a win.
The first image shows the disassembled Highlander switch. The second image shows the disassembled Lexus RX-330 switch. It's easy to see that my original assumption of copper contacts, subject to pitting and carbon contamination, was completely wrong--we live in the computer age, after all, so why not have microcontrollers in our window switches?
I'll post something a bit more comprehensive, later (maybe with a video of the process), but the short story is that, if the contacts on the underside of the PC board are undamaged, simply swapping the white Switch-Doctor key membrane with the pink OEM key membrane will do the trick.
Care needs to be taken not to contaminate the conductive pads on the PC board, as well as the conductive bridging pads on the key membrane, with skin oil or dirt, or cat fur (as is the case in our home); however, I did the swap on my switch, installed it this morning, and the switch works perfectly--no hesitations, no stuttering, and no having to 'mash' the toggle to get things moving the way we expect them to.
If the pads on the PC board are damaged, there are ways to take care of that, too; but this may just be the cheapest approach to getting that switch working again for those who are having problems with theirs.
I mentioned that I had ordered a 'Switch-Doctor' driver's-side front master window and door lock control switch ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07196JJLZ ) intended for use in the 2004 Lexus RX-330, in the hopes that there might be sufficient similarities between the two to get a working switch for just $42.50, instead of a king's ransom.
While I regret to inform you that the switch that I received DID NOT function as a fully-functioning, drop-in replacement for the Highlander switch; I am happy to inform you that tearing the Switch-Doctor offering apart, and swapping internal parts with the Highlander switch, got my OEM switch working perfectly.
At a total outlay of $42.50 (with free shipping), with no greasy-dusty salvage yard visits, I consider that to be a win.
The first image shows the disassembled Highlander switch. The second image shows the disassembled Lexus RX-330 switch. It's easy to see that my original assumption of copper contacts, subject to pitting and carbon contamination, was completely wrong--we live in the computer age, after all, so why not have microcontrollers in our window switches?
I'll post something a bit more comprehensive, later (maybe with a video of the process), but the short story is that, if the contacts on the underside of the PC board are undamaged, simply swapping the white Switch-Doctor key membrane with the pink OEM key membrane will do the trick.
Care needs to be taken not to contaminate the conductive pads on the PC board, as well as the conductive bridging pads on the key membrane, with skin oil or dirt, or cat fur (as is the case in our home); however, I did the swap on my switch, installed it this morning, and the switch works perfectly--no hesitations, no stuttering, and no having to 'mash' the toggle to get things moving the way we expect them to.
If the pads on the PC board are damaged, there are ways to take care of that, too; but this may just be the cheapest approach to getting that switch working again for those who are having problems with theirs.
