Well, I found a posting on the Previa group on Yahoo that answered my question. The instructions were sound, and I've successfully installed both headlights. Wow, what a difference! I bought the parts at Partstrain.com for $61 each and that included the mounting bracket, headlight housing, and even a new bulb. The packaging was quite professional and the parts appear to be high quality. At first, I didn't understand why I needed a new mounting bracket, but upon removal of the second headlight, a piece of plastic broke off of the headlamp housing. The connection to the bracket was stronger than the housing material itself.
Installation was not simple, but it was possible even or a rather inexperiened person such as me. Here is my feeble attempt to help anyone else that has dim headlights that wishes to see again.
First, see the images below. I did not have integrated fog lamps, so here is what I bought:
HEADLIGHT RH (PASSENGER SIDE)
Without Fog Lamp
Sale Price: $58.85
5% OFF SALE!
Regular Price:
$61.95
List Price: $166.58
Part# 20-1698-00
OEM# 8111028330
Availability: In Stock</SPAN>
Buy Fast. Feel Secure.®
Pay Later with Bill Me Later® !
Click here for details
The Parts Train Aftermarket Guarantee
HEADLIGHT LH (DRIVER SIDE)
Without Fog Lamp
Sale Price: $58.85
5% OFF SALE!
Regular Price:
$61.95
List Price: $166.58
Part# 20-1699-00
OEM# 8115028330
Availability: In Stock</SPAN>
Buy Fast. Feel Secure.®
Pay Later with Bill Me Later® !
Click here for details
Next, I gathered my tools and a lot of courage. My suggested tools: Channel locks, Phillips screwdriver, needle-nose pliers, and a 3-pound hammer. OK, you're probably laughing by now, but you'll soon learn why... Oh yeah, you're gonna get dirty!
If you look at the image above, you see the black mounting bracket protruding out from the side and a little at the top. This is an accurate depiction. However, DO NOT ASSEMBLE THE HEADLAMP TO THE BRACKET YET.
Step 1: Open hood. Start with the Right Headlight (when facing the front of the van, it's on your left). Remove the existing bulb. You need to push and turn the outer ring counterclockwise. You can save the bulb (do not touch the glass with your fingers).
Step 2: Unhook spring and feed it back into the slot the it was protruding from. Squat down and look right between the turn signnal and the headlight. You'll see a small screw facing you. It's critical that you remove this first, or I can guarantee you that you'll break the frail plastic bracket. By removing this one screw, you're allowing the turn signal a little freedom of movement. Keep this screw.
If you're daring, you may want to try to pull the turn signal out. I learned the hard way that you'll probably end up breaking the plastic bracket if you try. I discovered that it isn't necessary to remove the turn signal. Trust me and proceed with the next step.
Step 3: DO NOT remove the top screw that adjoins the main mounting bracket to the frame, just yet. Instead, take your channel locks and loosen the nut around the long-stemmed adjustment screw. Mine was rusted and with the long screw, so my simple socket set wouldn't work. You may be able to use a wrench, but you need a LOT OF TORQUE. Channel locks worked great. Make sure you loosen by going counterclockwise (form the nut's perspective -- not me, the metal piece, I mean). Keep this nut. It's precious.
Step 4: Remove the headlight. This part is a little unnerving. You should be able to push the the one end of the headlight out of the opening by several inches. The other end is still fastened to the bracket via a plastic clip on the bottom and a ball and socket that has quite a firm connection at the top. I found that by pulling firmly on the free end and simultaneously using a fairly thin, but solid pry bar at the other end between the headlight housing and the bracket, you can pry the headlight off of the bracket. Most likely, the ball and socket will break, but who cares, you're replacing both parts. You may also inadvertently see that the turn signal magically becomes free during this step. If not, once you've completely removed the headlight, you should now pull the turn signal free to get at the mounting bracket. If the plastic connections break, do not despair. You can remount the entire turn signal using a bead of clear silicone around the perimeter, but do this LAST.
Step 5: Remove the mounting bracket. There are 3 screws. One on top; one on the side, and one behind where the turn signal was located. Discard this bracket, but keep the screws.
Step 6: Install the new mounting bracket with the same 3 screws. Make sure it's firmly installed.
Step 7: Install the new headlight by feeding the long adjustment screw through the top hole and simultaneously feed the hook through the respective slot. Pull the hook though and secure it from the back. It has a little elbow part that sits in an opening in the frame.
Step 8: Carefully align the ball and socket, but more importantly, swivel the plastic tab on the bottom of the bracket so that it aligns with the opening on the headlight. When you're sure you have it aligned, push gently and the plastic clip will snap into place. Now align the ball and socket and push quite firmly on the front of the headlight (near the top) until you hear a "snap" which is the ball and socket making a firm connection. Now reinstall the nut on the long adjustment screw and tighten firmly.
Step 9: Replace the lightbulb, or if the unit came with a bulb, simply reconnect the wire.
Step 10: Remove the protective film. I did not see a need to adjust the headlight angles but you may do so using the adjustment screws.
Step 11: Replace the turn signal by snapping back into the socket (if still intact) or by caulking with silicone. Replace the screw on the front mounting bracket. This light is now done.
Repeat the same procedure on the other side. I did notice that there was more corrosion on the battery side and I had to use my 3-pound hammer to gently free up the long ajustment screw. (At the appropriate step above). Also, there is a hose in the way of the spring and so it's a little tricky to feed the spring through the hole and secure the spring, hence the needlenose pliers. By gripping the spring with the pliers, pulling, and then twisting gently to the right, the spring should come through the slot and come to rest in the right position. This part took me awhile, simply because I refused to remove the hose.
I make no claim of being a sensible mechanic. I was hoping someone else would tell ME how to do this, so do this at your own risk. I do hope this helps you.
I guess it's commonplace to share your mileage in this forum? I have a miniscule 132K, but going strong!!!
HAPPY NEW YEAR!!
Discussion area for the (discontinued) Toyota Previa.
How do I remove the Headlight housing on a 92 Previa?
Answer to my own question
Linear Mode
