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Old 11-24-2010, 10:01 PM   #1 (permalink)
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blower motor

Ok, finally replaced wornout blower motor. Do NOT have the two lowest blower motor speeds, have the upper two speeds.

thanks
willie

91 Previa LE
170000
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Old 11-25-2010, 01:05 PM   #2 (permalink)
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The little "jumper " on the resistor has come unsoldered. Seems that this is a common issue with the Previa. It took me about 20 minutes total to remove the resistor, resolder it and replace it. Now I have all my fan speed settings working...
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Old 11-26-2010, 11:23 PM   #3 (permalink)
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the resistor is located next to the blower motor. you will have to unscrew the 4 to 6 phillips screws and a 10mm and12mm bolts to remove the metal underhousing. after the metal housing is removed, down to the bottom right, you will see a wire connector plug that goes into the back of the resistor. unplug that, then remove the two phillips screws that hold the resitor to the airbox. pull out the resistor, and you will see this....

that wide jumper band will most likely have unsoldered itself on one side. resolder it, and reinstall and you should have all your settings working again.....
When I repaired mine, I tucked the jumper band under the terminal, so that if the solder were to get soft again, it would stay in contact anyway..


( this is one I pulled at the salvage yard today.. it looks to have already been repaired once... )
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Old 11-27-2010, 10:39 AM   #4 (permalink)
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blower motor

thanks again guys...

Willie
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Old 02-01-2011, 04:21 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Blower Motor removal for Riggs

1129, I take it that this is done under the hood? And is it in the middle, right or left. What do I remove to get to it? Please walk me through it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cmh1129 View Post
the resistor is located next to the blower motor. you will have to unscrew the 4 to 6 phillips screws and a 10mm and12mm bolts to remove the metal underhousing. after the metal housing is removed, down to the bottom right, you will see a wire connector plug that goes into the back of the resistor. unplug that, then remove the two phillips screws that hold the resitor to the airbox. pull out the resistor, and you will see this....

that wide jumper band will most likely have unsoldered itself on one side. resolder it, and reinstall and you should have all your settings working again.....
When I repaired mine, I tucked the jumper band under the terminal, so that if the solder were to get soft again, it would stay in contact anyway..


( this is one I pulled at the salvage yard today.. it looks to have already been repaired once... )
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Old 02-01-2011, 09:43 PM   #6 (permalink)
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yes, it is under the hood. When you open the hood, you will have to unscrew the 2 or 4 screws to remove the fresh air foil. once you get that off, you will be able to see the squirl cage part of the fan. the metal part that I am talking about is on the underside of that.

I marked where the screws are, or at least I remember them being....
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Old 02-01-2011, 10:16 PM   #7 (permalink)
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1129, does the jumper get soldered to all 3 posts?
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Old 02-01-2011, 10:19 PM   #8 (permalink)
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1129, this is actually for someone else but another question while on the subject. My fan works fine...except on high speed it sounds as though it is straining a bit. Is there a filter that could be clogged and need cleaning? TIA.
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Old 02-02-2011, 03:48 PM   #9 (permalink)
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that's a good question... I'm not sure. I was looking at the picture, and it looks like it is just the two. If i remember, you could see where the old solder points were.

if it is working on all settings except high, i don't think it is the resistor. I would first take off the fresh air foil and check to see if there is something in the blades... like some leaves or a mouse nest....
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Old 02-05-2011, 03:54 PM   #10 (permalink)
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1129, can you explain how to apply 12v power to the blower motor to see if it turns. Do you know which pins to apply power to?
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Old 02-05-2011, 04:06 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I am sorry, i don't.....
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Old 02-05-2011, 04:33 PM   #12 (permalink)
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1129, it seems I may be able to answer my own question. Anyone else chime in please. My understanding is the blower motor is connected to a multi wired plug. Yet when I search for a new blower motor it is shown with 2 wires. Common sense. So it would stand to reason (because I haven't actually seen the assembly) that each speed of the switch will have its own power wire pinned to the connector. In that each speed of the switch has a different voltage applied to the hot wire of the motor at their respective speeds. So 4 speeds relates to a 5 pin plug to accomodate for ground as well. That would mean one wire (ground) coming from the fan motor to the plug would connect only one wire while the other wire (hot) would be pinned to multiple wires which would be the wires of the various speeds of the switch. Therefore choosing which wire to test would only allude to a presense of power or no power to the motor at that particular pin. Power to no pins would need confirmation by applying 12v power directly to one of the hot pins in the plug to test for a DOA motor. It matters not which one.
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Old 02-09-2011, 11:59 AM   #13 (permalink)
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OK. 1129...here is a complete update of our findings on the situation of the so called "Blown Blower Motor". This will not be a complete tutorial as that may follow but it at least will give a bit of enlightedment to those Columbus types out there. To those unafraid to travel where man has never gone before.

So, blower first lost speed one...then speed two...and was left with high speed or nothing at all. A short period of time passed by whereby the highspeed fan setting as well bit the bullet.
  1. Replaced switch...no change= $75 (approximate)
  2. Checked relays...no problem.
  3. Read your post about the resistor. Decided this has to be the problem.
  4. Removed the resistor...intact and no problem.
  5. Must be a dead fan motor.
Removed air intake housing to expose fan. Could not remove the fan cage from the top of the motor shaft due to corrosion and brittle plastic parts. Hot wireed fan to find erratic operation. Sometimes working mosttimes not. With no electrical hum present indicating a binding armature. BEWARE...the cage unit is plastic and after 15-20 years of hard living this part is in the November of its life. Before you take an M1 Abrahams to it (or allow your mechanic to do the same) do yourself a favor and see if you can get a replacement. Otherwise, remove the rear screws holding the whole fan cage assembly (including fan) from the firewall. Cage intact, proceeded to remove the underside of the fan enclosure. It is not welded. Therefore you can dissasemble the motor (good). However, because we could not get the cage off the shaft we could not dissasemble the motor completely for inspection. Upon removing the fan housing from the firewall we discovered a dust not unlike brown cocoa. Once the back of the motor was removed we found the motor to be full of this brown dust. As well making the brushes not make good contact with the armature. After removing the dust and exposing the brushes we found the brushes to as well be in the November of their life. These brushes are replaceable. We could not replace them because we could not get the cage off. When we find a suitable replacement cage...as it will surely break in the removal process, we will go back in and finish the job of replacing the brushes. Much cheaper than buying a $75 dollar replacement motor. In checking the motor after cleaning, lubricating and replacing the back side of the motor casing we tested for action. Fan works with hot wire DC. Ecstatically we replace the complete air box assempbly and much to our anticipation all fan speeds work as well with a new found fan speed. This brown dust had put a tremendous damper on the electrical connection of the brushes to the armature and the turning mass of the armature in general. Hence the reclaimed speed. I would dare say that any motor replaced in these applications is actually bad. There is no inlet filter. Engineering a piece of filter media with a backing plate is on the drawing board. With careful consideration given to the brittle fragileness of the fan cage just inside the inlet housing. One need only remove the initial inlet air scoop to find the area receptive to the filter media idea. Leaves, a stick or most anything that gets in there at this point will destroy the blades of the fan cage. Plus the filter media will reduce the dust deposited in the fan as well the HVAC registers in the Previa interior.

For those of you who must find the "grail" and refuse to spend hard earned money and get an HO on fixing something with your own intellect and posess unwavering perseverence...have a drink on me. Three successive Glenlivets followed by a Miller High Life chaser later and relaxing with a nice ceegar whilist the kids play and the wives talk about post mordem reality shows, we Dads bask in the warmth of self-suficiency...if only for a brief moment while smelling the challenge of the next conquest. "Run it up Herman, leave no doubt!"
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Old 02-09-2011, 01:00 PM   #14 (permalink)
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what if you just replace the blower motor resistor? isn't that the problem tho?

1) if the a/c light comes on when the a/c button is engaged when you put the fan in the 1st and 2nd setting. then your switch is fine.


yeah personally, i wouldn't bother soldering the blower motor resistor. - just get a new one. - this will bite your ass in the future if you don't replace it.
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Old 10-15-2012, 11:37 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I'm a new member here, and I saw this post. I'm having an issue with my fan, but not like this. Mine will work intemittently. Right now it's not working. When it does, it works on all the speeds.

Might this still be a problem with the resistor?

I know squat about Previa's that's why I joined up.

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