2002 toyota sequoia turns off when in gear

[ozzinc]

I have A 2002 toyota seqouia that when I turn it on it runs fine in park, but soon as I put it in drive or reverse the truck cuts off. any info on this problem would greatly be appreciated.

[itzcoolz]

Hey guys,

I had this exact same problem today. Does anybody have any ideas?

[jeffhall]

I have the exact same problem with my 2001. Did you ever find out what why your vehicle was doing this. I am having mine towed to the stealer next week and would really like to know in advance what to tell him to look for. Thanks for your help.

[toyomoho]

Does the engine just die, run rough then die? Can you start it in Neutral?

[jeffhall]

Originally Posted by toyomoho

Does the engine just die, run rough then die? Can you start it in Neutral?

The engine dies immediately. It is like the transmission is locked up in any gear but park and neutral. To put it into neutral without stalling you have to shift it there very fast. I don't know if it will start in neutral or not. I will try that tonight. My problem seems to be intermittent. It ran for a week or so okay after replacing the toque converter. Then my wife said it felt like it was going to stall when she slowed down. She stopped at a stop sign and from that point forward the engine stalls any time it is shifted into gear. Thanks for any advice you may have.

[jeffhall]

It does start in neutral. It also starts in Park. It stalls as soon as you put it into any gear. It feels like a manual transmission with the clutch out. When you engage the gear it stalls immediately. Thanks.

[toyomoho]

There are a couple of lines of thought here. Not familiar with this car but these setups often have a Park/Neutral position circuit that tells the computer if the selector is in P or N, or in one of the gears. This circuit causes the engine to idle up when put in gear (to compensate for the load of the trans). Something like an IAC valve in the throttle body would then typically adjust a small amount of intake airflow (air that bypasses the throttle valve) and with this the idle. If either one these have a problem the engine can die.

Since it is intermediate might be a wiring issue. Would think if the trans were internally damaged this would be a constant problem.

There are trouble codes for the two problems above, (and some trans issues). I think AutoZone will read them for free. But the computer might clear them once the car begins to run normally again.

The trans selector electrical switch is usually behind the shift arm that is attached to the trans. Follow the shift cable to the trans.

Also do a TN history search in this forum as other car owners have brought this issue up.

[jeffhall]

Thanks so much for the advice. It sounds like you know what you are talking about. I plan on having it towed to the dealer this week. When the dealer recommended a new torque convertor he said that the the transmission sylenoid could be the cause but it tested okay. I had the torque convertor replaced and it ran okay for about a week. Then it locked up again. I think that the transmission is in lock up mode and it isn't realeased when you put it into gear. Do you think I should have the transmission sylenoid replaced before I try anything else? I'm not sure what to tell the dealer to do at this point. Thanks again for your expertise.

[toyomoho]

I am not an autotrans expert, but.

You think the torque converter is locking up (or locked). This puts a load on the engine when the trans is shifted into gear killing it. As I understand the autotrans, the torque converter is in non-lock up mode until a certain speed (MPH) is achieved. Provided of course the 0/D switch is on and the coolant temp is up. The O/D solenoid controls this operation. This O/D setup appears to have its own MPH sensor just for the O/D. This is separate from the MPH sensor for the gage on the console.

When the engine is at idle, does it sound under a little more load then normal. As if the converter is engaged. Perhaps for some reason, when you shift into gear, the converter engages.

Guessing either the O/D solenoid is bad and holding the torque converter engaged or the converter has a problem. The converter has a one-way clutch that if bad can cause it not to disengage. Perhaps this is why the dealer replaced the unit. Not sure a replacement would go bad so soon but stranger things have happened. If so, I would think they need to replace it on their dime.

Or maybe the trans is attempting to shift into two gears at once. This might be an ECU, gear lever position switch (tells the computer which gear you have selected manually), or one of the other solenoid is acting up. This switch is external and can be easily tested. The autotrans has 4 or 5 electric solenoids that control shifting and O/D operation.

If this car is 4WD, maybe there is something screwed up with the 4WD engagement system.

There is also a chance a trouble code is being stored for readout. The solenoids are controlled by the ECU that monitors their on/off performance.

I can say a competent dealer should be able to figure this out. The Toyota shop manual should provide everything needed to diagnose the problem. These manuals are very detailed! Assuming the replacement converter was not defective (these things can happen), the dealer needs to try a little harder to find the problem.

And don't rule out wiring issues, as in bad or loose wires. But all of this should be covered in the shop manual.

[jeffhall]

You may be no expert but you know a whole lot more about it than I do. I have an appointment with the dealer this Friday. Tonight I went out and started the Sequoia. It started right up. I let it run for a minute and put it into drive. It stalled immediately. Then I started it and hit the 4 wheel drive button and put it into drive. It stalled immediately. Then I played with the High-Low 4 Wheel drive shifter and whatever was binding freed up. I drove it around the block and it seemed fine. One of the things you said was that it may have something to do with the 4 wheel drive engagement system. I think you are right. I'm not sure what the problem is but that is where I plan on telling the dealer to look. I expect it to lock up again but I don't have any idea when. If you think of anything else I would sure appreciate your advise. Thanks again, I'll let you know what the dealer says after I pick it up.

[toyomoho]

The problem goes away when you moved things around, great! Again not an expert so just guessing. Might be the high/low shift mechanism. Could be binding up in two gears at once, high and low. Maybe there is an adjustment or bend shifter part.

Ask the dealer to check it out. If the problem, ask them to explain what lead them to believe it was the torque converter. You seem to have described the problem OK, wonder why the dealer want in the torque converter direction. But find out what the problem is first before questioning their handy work. Might just be something else, but sounds like a transfer case gearbox problem now.

[jeffhall]

Ho Toyomoho,

Here is an update on the information I got from the dealer. He says he diagnosed the car and he is positive that the Throttle Valve needs replaced. He said that the system showed a code that indicated this. He said that he was confident that this was the problem from my explination before he even looked at it. I told him to go ahead and fix it. He says $1,000 for the part and 3-3.5 hours of labor. I'm expecting a bill in the $1,400 range. Thanks again for helping me decide what to tell them. I'll post later after the vehicle is returned to me and I am certain of the final outcome.

[jeffhall]

I had the dealer replace the throttle vale. Cost was $1,400. After I got it back it felt like it was in cruise control all the time. If you took your foot of of the gas it kept going. I took it back and complained that it still wasn't right. They had it for a few days and now it is running like new. Thanks everyone for your help.

[toyomoho]

Great, I am sure other owners will appreciate the info.