calipers sticking ?

[smgchandler]

i have a 2000 lc and i replaced all 4 rotors and put new pads all way around to correct the shimmies when braking - well i didnt even think about why the rotors were warped - the front was worse than the rear - anyhow its been 5000 miles more and the shimmies are coming back - i cant really tell which rotor is getting the heat to it and it may be more than one but i feel the calipers are sticking -- well i just want to either replace all the calipers or rebuild them and hopefully someone will true my rotors up after the rebuild replace of the calipers -- anyone had this problem and how did you solve it ?? i have read that the calipers can be a pain to get the seals on and what about rust -- where is the best place to find replacement parts for calipers on a lc -- i appreciate any help or info

[toyomoho]

How many miles on the rotors when you changed them? Rotors can and do warp over time due to the heating and cooling cycle and exposure to water when they are hot.

Disk brake pads do not fully retract, as with brake shoes as there are no springs to pull them away from the rotor. If you can feel the shimmy through the steering wheel it is one or both of the front rotors.

A frozen brake piston usually shows up when changing brake pads. As the pads wear they move forward toward the rotor along with the piston. When the new pads are installed the pistons need to be retracted to allow the new thicker pad to be installed.

Check if caliper is sticking by seeing how each wheel rotates when off the ground. See if they all feel alike or one wheel has more drag. You can look at the brake pads when applying the brakes to see if they move forward then back. Remove the caliper from the bracket that holds it onto the knuckle, then push the piston back and see if you encounter unusually resistance.

Some models of cars with ABS advise opening the bleed valve when retracting the piston to relieve the pressure. This prevents any old fluid containing debris from working its way back into the ABS system valving.

See if the caliper holding the pads is free to move sideways, as the pads wear the caliper needs to maintain pad alignment. If it is unable to move, it can cause issues with both the pad and rotor. Another issue is if the wheel hub has too much runout. this would most likely take a dial indicator to check.


Exposing a hot rotor to water such in a deep puddle can cause them to warp. Having a rotor turned may only result in a temporary fix, have had better luck installing a new rotor. If you shop around you can pick up a name brand rotor from Brembo or another company for almost the same cost as having it turned on the car.

Any decent auto parts store should have or be able to order a caliper rebuild kit. If the piston is frozen in the caliper or the bore is too damaged picking up a rebuilt unit at an auto parts store or even junkyard can be faster and cheaper.

[Qslim]

Improper tightening of lug nuts is a leading factor in warped rotors. If the lug nuts are run down unevenly, it puts varying amounts of pressure across the rotor, and this pressure is eventually relieved through the continuous heating/cooling that the rotors go through in the form of warpage. Go inside any shop, and you're guaranteed to see some techs running the lugs down with a 1/2" impact wrench. We had the same problem in our shop, particularly with trucks. Our service manager instituted a strict torque wrench policy when it came to installing wheels, and the epidemic went away quickly.

Ask anyone who has spent time prepping a car for a track, too. If the lugs are not tightened evenly to the same torque value, the brakes will be shuddering after only a handful of laps.

[smgchandler]

the vehicle had 52,000 on it when i bought it and had this problem then - when i replaced the rotors it fixed the problem - and when pushing the pistons back they all seemed to move just fine - dont remember having a stiff one at all and the pads were not worn uneven and were not even half worn - as far as replacing the rotors - well i dont want to go that route again and its certainly not cheaper to do that than getting rotors turned or maybe i am buying my rotors at the wrong place ? anyhow i was looking for someone that has had this problem and it was something other than the calipers ?? maybe some type of abs problem or valve problem or well im fishing here - i know my lug nuts were put on and tightened correctly because i did it myself and i do use a impact wrench but set lower than wide open - i dont have to crack a nuckle when i take them back off to rotate tires - anyhow i know i have read about this problem with other lc's but nobody offers the exact problem or how they fixed it - i am not above taking it to the toyota dealer but sure do hate to and i do appreciate all the comments - makes a fella think and rethink for a solution or what more to look for

[Qslim]

Originally Posted by smgchandler

i know my lug nuts were put on and tightened correctly because i did it myself and i do use a impact wrench but set lower than wide open - i dont have to crack a nuckle when i take them back off to rotate tires -

When I was describing how out shop solved this problem for a bunch of our truck owners, you may have misunderstood me. The point was not over tightening, it was uneven tightening. If you use a 1/2 impact wrench to put your wheel back on, you aren't going to get the same torque value on each stud. Using a torque wrench gives you the ability to put the same amount of twist - be it 75 ftlbs or 90 ft lbs - on each lug to ensure that there is no uneven pressure on the face of the rotor. Try getting a 1/2" torque wrench on loan from your local parts chain store.

[Skybill]

I just rebuilt one of the calipers on my 89 FJ62. It had one of the pistons sieze in the out position and wore the pad to the metal then trashed the rotor. I was out wheeling when it happened so I had no choice but to continue to drive it.

The pistons were pitted and rusted somewhat. The one that seized was the worst. I sanded them slightly with 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper and put it back together.

It's only a temporary fix as I am going to put 4Runner calipers, slotted rotors and a master cylinder from a FJ80 on it to help in the stopping. I've got 35" tires and it needs all the help it can get!

Keep in mind though that my Cruiser sat from November of last year until about 3 weeks ago as I rebuilt the transmission and transfer case so it had plenty of time to rust!

That being said, I would go to the dealer and get OEM rebuilt calipers and the OEM brake pads. I put the OEM pads on my wife's 04 Tundra Double cab and have not had any issues.

I've found that for certain things; bearings, seals and brake parts that the OEM parts really are better.

Good luck!

BTW, my company vehicle is a 2001 Durango and I had the brakes redone because of the pulsing. The replaced both front rotors, calipers and pads. It was fine for about 6 months and now it's back! But what can you say, It's not a Toyota!!!

[2ndLC]

What is the proper amount of torque? I had HUGE brake warping/shimmiing issues with my old 94 and am trying to avoid with my 99..
You mentioned 75 lbs and 90 lbs---or do you tighten enough to make it tight and see what it is for each wheel? I'm assuming it doesn't matter wheel to wheel, but lug to lug it should be exactly the same, correct?

[Qslim]

Originally Posted by 2ndLC

What is the proper amount of torque? I had HUGE brake warping/shimmiing issues with my old 94 and am trying to avoid with my 99..
You mentioned 75 lbs and 90 lbs---or do you tighten enough to make it tight and see what it is for each wheel? I'm assuming it doesn't matter wheel to wheel, but lug to lug it should be exactly the same, correct?

Yeah, you have the theory. 99 Land Cruiser has a torque spec of 97ft lbs. Wheel torque is something that's real easy to overlook, but it only takes a trip to autozone before your job to get a 1/2" torque wrench on loan. Hope it helps.