Clutch Replacement - Toyota PU 93 2 wheel drive

I am going to replace my clutch this weekend on my 93 Toyota Pickup. It
is a 2 wheel drive and as basic as they came in that year. There is a
package that I can buy at Napa and I think it is like $150.00. I have
two questions
1. For some time now I have had a whining type noise coming from the
tranny area. I have been told it is a throw-out bearing and that it can
be easily replaced once the transmission is off. Is this true? Does
this sound logical?
2. I have never replaced a clutch before but am definitely mechanically
inclined and have done alot of maintenance type work on cars before. I
hear on this particular model it is really easy to get all of this
done. What I am wondering is if I am going to run into any "gotchas" on
the job. As in is there anything in particular I should look out for?
Is this replacement pretty straightforward or am I getting into
something that I will regret?

Thanks for the assistance everyone.....

Graham

G-Ram wrote:
> I am going to replace my clutch this weekend on my 93 Toyota Pickup. It
> is a 2 wheel drive and as basic as they came in that year. There is a
> package that I can buy at Napa and I think it is like $150.00. I have
> two questions
> 1. For some time now I have had a whining type noise coming from the
> tranny area. I have been told it is a throw-out bearing and that it can
> be easily replaced once the transmission is off. Is this true? Does
> this sound logical?

It is easy to replace once the tranny is out... it will only whine
while you have the clutched pressed in. Is that the case?

> 2. I have never replaced a clutch before but am definitely mechanically
> inclined and have done alot of maintenance type work on cars before. I
> hear on this particular model it is really easy to get all of this
> done. What I am wondering is if I am going to run into any "gotchas" on
> the job. As in is there anything in particular I should look out for?
> Is this replacement pretty straightforward or am I getting into
> something that I will regret?


It is not difficult. There arent any hidden things, esp not with a 2WD.
Consider doing this while the tranny is out:

- reaplce crank seal
- replace tranny seal
- If leaks reseal the oil pan now

Clutch dust can cause cancer, so dont breathe it. if you take the
flywheel off, mark its location, same with the pressure plate.

Most bolts there require the proper torque and on flywheel and pressure
plate bolts I would put loctite.

The top 2 tranny bolts are ard to reach, depening on model and motor.
Have extensions and swivels ready.

Rent a tranny jack. its worth the $20. The clutch change should take
you 6-10h the first time (4WD) and a lot less the second time ;)

Depending if you rather spend money or change clutch get a quality
prsssure plate (like Exedy) and a quality disc. You get what you pay

matt

L wrote:
> G-Ram wrote:
> > I am going to replace my clutch this weekend on my 93 Toyota Pickup. It
> > is a 2 wheel drive and as basic as they came in that year. There is a
> > package that I can buy at Napa and I think it is like $150.00. I have
> > two questions
> > 1. For some time now I have had a whining type noise coming from the
> > tranny area. I have been told it is a throw-out bearing and that it can
> > be easily replaced once the transmission is off. Is this true? Does
> > this sound logical?
>
> It is easy to replace once the tranny is out... it will only whine
> while you have the clutched pressed in. Is that the case?
>
> > 2. I have never replaced a clutch before but am definitely mechanically
> > inclined and have done alot of maintenance type work on cars before. I
> > hear on this particular model it is really easy to get all of this
> > done. What I am wondering is if I am going to run into any "gotchas" on
> > the job. As in is there anything in particular I should look out for?
> > Is this replacement pretty straightforward or am I getting into
> > something that I will regret?
>
>
> It is not difficult. There arent any hidden things, esp not with a 2WD.
> Consider doing this while the tranny is out:
>
> - reaplce crank seal
> - replace tranny seal
> - If leaks reseal the oil pan now
>
> Clutch dust can cause cancer, so dont breathe it. if you take the
> flywheel off, mark its location, same with the pressure plate.
>
> Most bolts there require the proper torque and on flywheel and pressure
> plate bolts I would put loctite.
>
> The top 2 tranny bolts are ard to reach, depening on model and motor.
> Have extensions and swivels ready.
>
> Rent a tranny jack. its worth the $20. The clutch change should take
> you 6-10h the first time (4WD) and a lot less the second time ;)
>
> Depending if you rather spend money or change clutch get a quality
> prsssure plate (like Exedy) and a quality disc. You get what you pay
>
> matt
I will be doing this in my garage at my house so I am good on that
front....but thanks for bringing it up....logstics are important!!

The whining noise starts as soon as I get to 5mph. It is always
apparent but reduces as soon as I push in my clutch. It almost sounds
like it could be near the drive train or differenctial. It definitely
feels like the whining is coming from right behind my seat on the
drives side....hope this helps.

I am committed...Im tearin this son'bitch apart and gonnna get'r
DONE!!! ;)

I am going to http://www.howthingswork.com now to figure out how the
hell I am going to get this done tomorrow.... ;)

For the throwout bearing you will need high temp grease. Get toyota
parts for all hard to reach parts like engine, tranny seal, pilot
bearing and throwout bearing. Change those two bearings. Now I
remember that getting the pilot bearing out of a V6 is PAINFUL. Get a
bearingpuller for that.


I am not an expert on this whining problem. The throwout bearing should
only whine when the clutch is pressed, other wining points to tranny
bearings , maybe consult some Toyota forums like:

http://mkelly.proboards22.com/index.cgi#tech

http://www.yotatech.com/

http://board.marlincrawler.com/


Nothing with the clutch change is difficult. Just some parts are heavy
(2WD tranny is lighter and has no TC) and its usually hard to get the
tranny aligned and on. You should have a clutch alignment tool and
without a jack you cant do it on your own.

Depending on which motor you have it will not be easy to change the
crank seal. There are some implications about this seal you need to
know.

You will not be able to do this right w/o a manual that tells you
torque specs. I can give u those specs for 22RE and 3VZE motors if u
have no manual.

You may or may not have to resurface your flywheel. This needs to be
ground, not turned and if you have a recessed flywheel they need to
make sure the recess is to spec!

Lastly, sometimes you get a wrong clutch disc, aside from installing it
right side it needs to have the right thickness. I installed a clutch
just to find out the disc is too thick. For the 3l V6 the disc must be
8.3 mm thick and the flywheel recess .5 mm.

What motor and tranny do you have?

Matt

On 29 Oct 2005 10:25:29 -0700, "L" <web1000@shaw.ca> wrote:


big snip

>You may or may not have to resurface your flywheel. This needs to be
>ground, not turned and if you have a recessed flywheel they need to
>make sure the recess is to spec!


Can you talk a little more about the "recess"? Is this
something like a counterbore (probably not quite how a
machinist would refer to it...)? Something like, a simple
disk that then has depression cut into the face such that
the outer-most surface is "higher" than the inner-most
surface? Difficult to explain without a drawing! Something
like a shirt button, where on the "face" that other would
see when you are wearing the shirt, has a "depressed" area
in the center, where the holes for the attachment thread
are? Jeez, this is hard with plain-text!

Thanks,

The center portion, where the disc sits, of the wheel is raised. If
the elevated part is ground and not the rest, it will affect
performance.

It looks like this:

http://www.9secondracing.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi?partnum=15214

Matt