92 Truck Wont Idle

92 22R ERRATTICLY WONT IDLE GET THE CODE 14 IGN. COIL AND HAVE CHANGED IT AND ALSO CODE 43 No Starter Switch (STA) Signal To ECU Until Engine Reaches 800 RPM When CrankingANY IDEAS

THANKS WAYNE

I have a very similar problem with my SR5. What I have found with a little research is to check the PCV valve and the vacume system. I'm assuming that you have already checked the plugs and wires. I haven't had a chance to take care of mine, so let me know how yours turns out.

I have a similar problem with my '92 Toyota truck. When I depress the clutch the truck will die, idle rough and suddenly die. It often does the same when driving at low rpms. I was told it may be the throttle position sensor, it wasn't. When it dies I can re-start it just fine. When it does this the engine light comes on. If I rev it the light goes off until rpms drop. I've put some good commercial injector cleaner through it and cleaned the intake. Let me know if you come up with ideas and I will do likewise.

I was talking to some people and they all reccomended to check the vacume system for leaks. That's all I have found out so far.

I checked for any leaks via spraying starting fluid around vacuum lines while engine running. I found nothing. Still looking. Thanks for reply, and if you have any success let me know. I will do likewise.

this may sound silly but i found info on this problem then eletrical wiring for the brake lights maybe causing this problem here is what i found

The EFI computer receives a signal from the brake circuit that tells it that the brakes are being applied. This causes the computer to shut off the injectors if the RPM's are over a certain level and the engine is in "closed loop" as engine power should not be needed if the brakes are being applied.I believe the set point for the injector cut out is 850 to 900 RPM. This is what causes the surging - your idle RPM is too high, when the brakes are applied the injectors are cut out until the RPM's drop below this level. The engine then run's again. This only happens when the engine goes into "closed loop" so this will not happen when the engine is at a higher idle speed warming up. I am willing to bet your idle speed is around 1000 RPM when this happens. To fix this problem, simply adjust your warm idle speed to 750 RPM as per the factory.

Anything at this point is possible. Thanks for the tip, I will give it a try and let you know.

OK...I had a computer diagnosis done. The fella did not quote code numbers but stated that it said "Loss of ignition signal to engine". Any ideas as to what that means? It would explain why it shuts down just as though turning off the key. But it only does it at idle speed. It does seem to be missing more lately.

changed egr valve and it seems to be better good luck to all

Thanks for the reply. I am still trying to find the problem. I tried the egr valve to no avail. Still looking for ideas. Thanks again for your response.

I just had to have the computer replaced in my 92 ...I was driving along and the truck just quit! No codes and had to replace the computer. Anyone else had this happen? Is there a "limp mode" that would by-pass the computer on these thrucks?

How much was the computer? I may have to go that route or maybe the igniter. At this point I really don't know. I'm not familiar with a "limp mode".

Originally posted by sball
How much was the computer? I may have to go that route or maybe the igniter. At this point I really don't know. I'm not familiar with a "limp mode".

I was lucky enough that they found one at a wrecking yard for $150. The Dealer wanted $700 for a new one.

What are you referring to when you say igniter? I am not sure what and where that is?

Mounted on the top of the drver side front fender well is a small black box. If I am not mistaken part of the name is igniter assembly. A wire runs from this to the distributor. This wire is in an insulated shroud that contains two wires inside a steel braid sleeve all contained in the shroud. The braided sleeve exits at the igniter and connects to a screw as though a ground. The confusing part of this is that at the other end (distributor end) the braid does not come out of the insulation and apparently does not connect anywhere for that end is sealed with only two wires connecteing to the distributor.

I found it! I will also post this as a new post for I think others may have the same problem. The wiring harness that runs under the intake between intake and injection assembly rests on the assembly. Apparently over time the vibration wore through the wrapping and insulation exposing wire. The harness was arcing to the assembly thus creating a short to the ignition. It had actually pitted the metal over time yet was hidden by the harness. I wrapped it and problem was solved. This is probably a common occurence for this is the factory routing for this harness.

I found the same thing put piece of rubber under it for now to see if it helps
will tape wires up later

thanks for the tip wayne

Glad I could help. Not only did this solve my idle and dieing problems, it also took care of the fluctuating temp gauge and I don't get shocked when I close the door any more.

Originally posted by sball
...and I don't get shocked when I close the door any more.
HAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!!:D :D