Replacing my system

I have a '92 Camry and I am looking to put a new set of speakers in and a new aftermarket in-dash deck. First off, what is the size of the speakers I am looking for. Second, are there limitations as to what deck I can use? And third, how much am I looking to spend for everything including or not including (please specify) installation for equipment that is somewhere between low and high-end?

Thanks in advance.

Front: 6.5" or 6.75"

Rear: 6x9"

Deck: 1 DIN or double DIN will work

Price range depends on your budget. For a better idea of what to get, start here...
http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/autoinfo/autoinfo.asp?lp=%2fapp%2fCar%2fMyCar.aspx

well i own a 96 camry and have a kenwood head unit, 2-12" kicker cvr. and a 1200 watt avionix . using factory speakers since they are not blown! and added a set of tweeters on the doors. installed it all myself. would probally cost you between $600-$700.looking to buy anything? i got the hook up-4 real. my buddy owns a car audio shop

A pretty good mid range system;

alpine headunit
focal 6.5 front speakers
NO REAR SPEAKERS
rockford fosgate 2 channel amp for the speakers
rockford fodgate mono 1 channel amp for the subwoofers
2 jl 12w3s in a ported box tuned to about 35hz and with the 2 port holes right where the rear speaker would be.
A capacitor as well.

Also big 3 upgrade, 2 negative cables for sure need upgrading and maybe positive alternator cable as well.

Also google the model numbers into google for sites that sell them cheep.

i have a 95 camry. my whole system cost me rounf 1500$ but u don't have to go overboard like i did.you can go to walmart and get a head unit and a kit to put it in youself. its not very hard and if your like i could walk u through it ive put in over 250 headunits. u can get a nice set of 6.5 for umm like 45$ at walmart or best buy. and you can get a head unit for about 100-500$ depending on what your looking for.jvc is a reeally good brand and its really cheap i have put alot of them in.I have a '92 Camry and I am looking to put a new set of speakers in and a new aftermarket in-dash deck. First off, what is the size of the speakers I am looking for. Second, are there limitations as to what deck I can use? And third, how much am I looking to spend for everything including or not including (please specify) installation for equipment that is somewhere between low and high-end?

Thanks in advance.

Thanks for the info everyone, I was pleased at how quickly I got so many responses. But uibalnme, I'm using the link you sent me to build a system based on my budget, I'll post my selections here before buying just to make sure that I'm not buying shit.

Front: 6.5" or 6.75"

Rear: 6x9"

Deck: 1 DIN or double DIN will work

Price range depends on your budget. For a better idea of what to get, start here...
http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/autoinfo/autoinfo.asp?lp=%2fapp%2fCar%2fMyCar.aspx

It looks like for a receiver I would be buying a Sony Xplod CDX-GT62IPW, for front speakers I'd be getting Kenwood KFC-C1739ie, and for rear speakers: Kenwood KFC-1361S. Good choices or not? They may be lower-end but they all seem to be highly rated, and I'd be getting everythin (not including installation) for like $220. Albuynp Ryeno, why was it that you said not to get rear speakers?

Thanks for the info everyone, I was pleased at how quickly I got so many responses. But uibalnme, I'm using the link you sent me to build a system based on my budget, I'll post my selections here before buying just to make sure that I'm not buying shit.

Cool, man. However, don't pay any mind to what Crutchfield says about the 6x9's not fitting. The problem there is that Cruchfield doesn't have adapters specific to the gen3 that will work for aftermarket 6x9's. You will have to either drill new holes for the new 6x9's or get an adapter. The adapter is a much easier option. I bought a pair of adapters from ebay for less than $20.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-Audio-Electronics__6x9-Speaker-Adapters-Toyota-Camry-92-01-Rear_W0QQitemZ310091419038QQadnZCarQ20AudioQ20Q26Q 20ElectronicsQQadiZ2812QQcmdZViewItem?_trksid=p450 6.m20.l1116

Now I know a some(and I know they'll throw in thier 2 cents) will say the ebay adapters are not good, but I've had mine in for almost 2 years, and haven't had any problems with them. Here is the thread dealing with just that issue...

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=270958

Now you decide, what is really better? Expensive, , time consuming, custom made, MDF adapters, or the inexpensive, fast, ready made, plastic adapters.

Either way it's up to you.

Albuynp Ryeno doesn't have rear speakers because that's how he likes it, and he has a subwoofer. I would suggest getting 6x9's because the smaller front speakers can only reproduce a narrower range of sound frequencies compared to 6x9's. Because 6x9's have a larger woofer cone, they can reproduce a wider range of frequencies. Typically more, low frequencies than the front speakers. i.e. deeper bass. which is good if you don't have a subwoofer.

I have 6.75" front speakers, 6x9's in the rear deck, and a Pioneer shallow mount sub.

K thanks again for the info, but is the stuff I listed decent quality? And what do I have to gain by getting 6x9's as opposed to the speakers I have listed?

The stuff you listed is fine. Crutchfield doesn't sell inferior products. As for the speakers you listed, The 5.25" speakers are smaller tat the front door speakers. That means they will produce less bass than the front door speakers. With 6x9's you will have a wider frequencie range, which means fuller, deeper, crisper, sound.

Think of it this way: 5.25" speakers are to 6x9's, as a clock radio is to a home theater system.

The bottom line is, you'll have much better sound. Trust me get the 6x9's.

ovel sepakers (6x9) should never be able to produce as accurate a sound as circle speakers (like 6.25 or 6.5). Plus they will NEVER be able to replace a sub woofer. Plus a subwoofer will make the speaker rattle where it was connected to the rear deck. And even worse a good subwoofer will actually blow out your rear speakers or severely damage them. I've ruined 4 rear speakers ftw.

Also its a LOT harder to install rear speakers into the camry, then front speakers. I'll assume your gen 3 is like my gen 3.5, when you remove the front speakers, they will already be ne a mounting plastic thing. For the rears, you would need to create your own mounting adapters out of my MDF.

I also wouldnt buy crutchfield, its like buying retail, RIPOFF. Just google model numbers and you'll find sites that sell that stuff for way less then MSRP. like wooferetc, onlinecarstereo, etc.

The stuff you listed is pretty terrible. Sony is prob one of the worst brands for car audio. Kenwood is trash as well.

ovel sepakers (6x9) should never be able to produce as accurate a sound as circle speakers (like 6.25 or 6.5). Plus they will NEVER be able to replace a sub woofer. Plus a subwoofer will make the speaker rattle where it was connected to the rear deck. And even worse a good subwoofer will actually blow out your rear speakers or severely damage them. I've ruined 4 rear speakers ftw.

Also its a LOT harder to install rear speakers into the camry, then front speakers. I'll assume your gen 3 is like my gen 3.5, when you remove the front speakers, they will already be ne a mounting plastic thing. For the rears, you would need to create your own mounting adapters out of my MDF.

I also wouldnt buy crutchfield, its like buying retail, RIPOFF. Just google model numbers and you'll find sites that sell that stuff for way less then MSRP. like wooferetc, onlinecarstereo, etc.

The stuff you listed is pretty terrible. Sony is prob one of the worst brands for car audio. Kenwood is trash as well.
You don't NEED those adapters to install the rear 6x9's, all you need is a few hand tools, a small amount of a sound deadener like dynamat or B-Quiet, and most important of all... common sense. In a Gen-3 like mine you can drill the mounting holes directly into the rear deck with no serious modifications at all, then bolt down the new speakers with some dound deadener around the edges(optional, but you get less rattling) using self tapping metal screws and decent strength thread locker. I took me a total of an hour and a half to remove the seats, back deck, side panels for the rear seat, the old speakers, and then re-install everything. I also soldered the factory harness onto the new speakers and used the existing wiring for a simple install, mainly because I don't have any plans for using an amp to power my 6x9's right now. As for the 6x9's not producing a better range of sound the sad fact is that most people aren't concerned with sound quality they just want quantity. A horrid example is all those idiots with stereo's you can hear for a good six blocks, but once there right beside you still can't tell what the crap their listening to because of all the distorsion.

You don't NEED those adapters to install the rear 6x9's, all you need is a few hand tools, a small amount of a sound deadener like dynamat or B-Quiet, and most important of all... common sense. In a Gen-3 like mine you can drill the mounting holes directly into the rear deck with no serious modifications at all, then bolt down the new speakers with some dound deadener around the edges(optional, but you get less rattling) using self tapping metal screws and decent strength thread locker. I took me a total of an hour and a half to remove the seats, back deck, side panels for the rear seat, the old speakers, and then re-install everything. I also soldered the factory harness onto the new speakers and used the existing wiring for a simple install, mainly because I don't have any plans for using an amp to power my 6x9's right now. As for the 6x9's not producing a better range of sound the sad fact is that most people aren't concerned with sound quality they just want quantity. A horrid example is all those idiots with stereo's you can hear for a good six blocks, but once there right beside you still can't tell what the crap their listening to because of all the distorsion.
AND THAT IS THE PROBLEM. You will get rattle no matter what you do. Once you have a good subwoofer, your trunk and rear deck will both rattle. Now no matter what you, you will never completely get rid of the rattle from the trunk. BUT by not runing rear speakers, your rear deck will no longer rattle.

Also this is the important thing. All that air making your trunk rattle, think about what its doing to the rear speakers. A good subwoofer will damage/blow-out the rear speakers. So its really just a waste of money runing rears. If u dont believe me, i can ship you my old rear deck speakers.

You could always port the rear deck to compensate for the extra air movement cause by a sub set up, but most people never bother to do that thus killing there rear speakers.

ovel sepakers (6x9) should never be able to produce as accurate a sound as circle speakers (like 6.25 or 6.5). Plus they will NEVER be able to replace a sub woofer. Plus a subwoofer will make the speaker rattle where it was connected to the rear deck. And even worse a good subwoofer will actually blow out your rear speakers or severely damage them. I've ruined 4 rear speakers ftw.

Also its a LOT harder to install rear speakers into the camry, then front speakers. I'll assume your gen 3 is like my gen 3.5, when you remove the front speakers, they will already be ne a mounting plastic thing. For the rears, you would need to create your own mounting adapters out of my MDF.

Ugh, I hate having to argue about this kind of stuff. I've installed several systems, in various cars, and I'm by no means a professional, but I know what I'm talking about. I never said that 6x9's could replace a sub. What I'm saying is that if there is no sub, a set of 6x9's will fill in the bass frequencies that the front door speakers can't produce. They will give a fuller sound. A sub will not make the rear speakers blow, and the deck rattle if the air is allowed to move past the deck, and there is some kind of vibration dampening material in place. i.e. dynamat.

A sub will not blow the rear speakers unless all of the holes in the rear deck are seal off so as to not let any air pass through. Preventing all the air from passing through is a bad thing. A sub is supposed to move air. That's what it was designed to do. If you blow rear speakers with a sub, something wasn't setup right.

It's not hard at all to install a set of 6x9's in the rear deck. With the ebay adpaters, I installed my 6x9's in 45 mins. That's 45mins from the time I decided to start the installation, to the point I tightened the last bolt, and cranked up the volume. By the way, I didn't have any rattling in the rear deck. When it's done right, there will not be any problems.

MDF adapters require wood working skills, access to wood working tools, and the materials to make them. If you don't have any of that, you'll have to go to a stereo shop, and have them custom made, and installed, for 3 or 4 times what the ebay adapters will cost you. The ebay adapters will do exactly the same job, and perform just as well as the MDF ones for WAY less money.

See I am no professional either but thats because I dont charge people money to install sound system. I am an expert tho. I;ve seen it happen with my own eyes on 2 pairs of rear speakers. So i know for a FACT that a subwoofer can ruin rear speakers. But if you want a scientific explanation here it goes.

Subwoofer that are good produce a high SPL. The rear deck speakers r right below the subwoofer. So that air will push upward on the cone of the speaker. This is equivalent to taking your finger and pushing up on the speaker while its playing.

And your right 6x9 can not replace subwoofers, thats the problem. They are not as good as producing sound as a 6.50 speaker and they arent as good a real subwoofer either.

And also here is the thing, how can air move from the trunk to the front of the car? if you replace the rear speakers and add a woofer. Their is NO way for the subwoofer air to travel to the front. That means a proper installation of rear speakers in the rear deck and a good subwoofer WILL blow out or distort the rear deck speaker.

See its not about doing a "PROPER" install, Its about doing a logical install. Just because they make 6x9 speakers and just because they run speakers in the rear deck doesn't mean you should use them.

See I am no professional either. I am an expert tho.


Dude, you make NO sense, stop and listen to yourself. The OP asked a simple question... and from what I read, he got his answer. Seriously, stop clogging this thread up and either take it to PM or just stop. :thumbsdow

Dude, you make NO sense, stop and listen to yourself. The OP asked a simple question... and from what I read, he got his answer. Seriously, stop clogging this thread up and either take it to PM or just stop. :thumbsdow


+1

I'll make this my final post in this thread. The true test of a speaker's ability to reproduce sound is not dependant on it's shape (i.e. round or oval), but it's frequency response. From Crutchfield's site...

Frequency Response:
The range of frequencies the speaker will reproduce (lowest frequency to the highest).

For full range speakers, the wider the range, the better. Optimal is 20 - 20,000 Hz, the range of human hearing.

Here's my example, using my system:

Most 6.5" ROUND speakers have a frequency response of about 30 - 30,000 Hz. My Round 6.75" speakers (Pioneer TS-D701P) have a frequency response of 25 - 32,000 Hz. My OVAL 6x9's (Pioneer TS-D901P) have a frequency response of 22 - 32,000 Hz.

As you can see, even within the same series of speakers, the oval 6x9's have a better range than the round 6.75." That means, 6x9's sound just a bit better than the 6.75" speakers. Keep in mind this is within the same brand, and series of speakers. This shows that my oval 6x9's just edge out my round 6.75" speakers for sound reproduction.

Another thing our resident non-professional, but an expert didn't seem to grasp, is that the OP isn't installing a subwoofer. Therefore, the OP should get some 6x9's in order to have the bass than the front speakers can't produce because, the OP isn't installing a subwoofer. Even if the OP was installing a sub, I doubt it would be a competition level, high SPL subwoofer.

And that's all I have to say about that...