brake troubles

well, i having some trouble w/ my '93 T100. i did a quick search but didnt find anything.

whats happening is my brake pedal is going all the way to the floor and there is basically NO pressure. the truck stops, but not until the pedal has gone down to the floor. me and a friend bled the brakes hoping the old gunky fluid was the culpret but apperantly not. im still having the same problem....but w/ all new brake fluid :sosad:.

any ideas, guys? any advice is greatly appreciated.

Did you bleed the LSPV? I'd disconnect it from the rear axle and tie it up before you bleed out the rears and the LSPV...then reconnect it back to the axle. :D

Bam, thanks for the speedy reply.

we didnt disconnect/tie up the LSPV. we did infact bleed it 1st before moving to the right rear, then left rear, and so on ending at the front left. we bled hte LSPV until new fluid was flowing through before moving on to the right rear wheel.

Did you find that the fluid was kinda slow going through? When the LSPV is tied up so it see a "max" load it really lets the fluid go through there to the rear brakes. I didn't find my problem until I locked up my brakes the rears didn't do a thing.

It should be the left rear first...then right rear...then LSPV but I did my LSPV first because it didn't allow the fluid to git to the rear brakes. Yes...I had replaced my master cylinder first thinking that was the problem but after running it through my head...the LSPV became my focus.

I had to beat on it with a 2x4 to break any crap that was built up in there free and I got a lot of air out of there first...then the left rear got a lot of air out and the right rear was pretty much fluid. After doing the fronts, the pedal was fantastic!! :D

The test I did was block the front wheels then jack up the rears by the differential. Spun the tires and stepped on the brakes. My wheels were still spinning!! :( After attacking the LSPV and bleeding it out, the rears stopped like they were supposed to... ;)

Fergot to ask...

Is there any fluid leaks around the master cylinder near the booster? That's usually a tell tale sign that the seals on the master is bad. I believe there's a weep hole there that allows it drip down if the seals aren't holding up.

Can you pump it up at all?

Did you allow the fluid level in the reservoir to git too low?

Are the rear brakes adjusted properly? When you pull the emergency brake lever it should click between 11-17 times before it locks the brakes up. If not, then you need to cycle the emergency brakes a few times to git it to adjust or if yer brave and smart enough you can do it manually at the back of the rear backing plates.

Do you have the anti lock brake system? If so...is yer power steering pump working and not leaking? The fluid in there runs the ABS actuator... ;)

THIS IS EXACTLY WHAT I'M GOING THROUGH :headbang:

I'm gonna work on it tonight and see what happens. Thanks for this post, and as usuall, thanks BAM :D

I'm also betting my e-brake is frozen as well...

I might get out of a brake job yet!

Did the advice in this thread help out at all? I'm experienceing the same issued and will be going through the steps above. If you have anything to add please shout out! I need all the help I can get :confused:


Cook

Are you able to confirm whether or not yer e-brake is frozen or not? You should be able to tell on the bellcrank that goes into the backplate when you release the brake. ;)

Did you ever jack up the rear end with both tires off the ground and see if they would spin or not? ;)

I'll be looking at all that tonight Bam. I'll let you know something this late tonight. Just to confirm, when you say "release the break," are you talking about the parking break and I'm also assuming to put the trans in neutral (5sp).

Also planning on taking pics to get you opinion on the drums.

Also, I'm assuming if the wheels spin, then they are not frozen? Obvious question, but want to make sure ;)

Well...since you have an open differential...putting the truck in neutral shouldn't make a difference. The tires should rotate opposite of each other when they are spun by hand. :D

Make sure you block the front wheels really well...hate to see yer truck take off running down the block or something. ;)

When the tires are spinning...step on the brakes and see if they stop or not... ;)

Will do :D

Bam,
Last question for the night. When you say bleed the "left rear" first, is the "left" as if I'm facing the motor? Just need to make sure and i'll let ya know how it goes.

Well...since you have an open differential...putting the truck in neutral shouldn't make a difference. The tires should rotate opposite of each other when they are spun by hand. :D

Make sure you block the front wheels really well...hate to see yer truck take off running down the block or something. ;)

When the tires are spinning...step on the brakes and see if they stop or not... ;)

Bam,

Tires spun, but did not stop when brakes were applied.

Bam,

Tires spun, but did not stop when brakes were applied.

It's probably yer LSPV that's sticking...unbolt the lever from the axle and tie it off to the frame and try again. If it doesn't stop then...yer gonna need to clean it out and unstick it... ;) I banged on mine a few times with a 2x4 and then bled it out. Got a lot of air of it and then the left side....then the right side. The left side got some good air out while the right side only got a little. Then I went and rebled the LSPV again. :D

BTW...did you lift it from the differential or from the frame? You'll need to do it from the differential. ;)

Bam,
Last question for the night. When you say bleed the "left rear" first, is the "left" as if I'm facing the motor? Just need to make sure and i'll let ya know how it goes.

Anytime yer dealing with a vehicle...it's always from the perspective of the driver behind the wheel. So when you make a left turn, left side of the engine, left wheel...they are all in that perspective... :D

It's probably yer LSPV that's sticking...unbolt the lever from the axle and tie it off to the frame and try again. If it doesn't stop then...yer gonna need to clean it out and unstick it... ;) I banged on mine a few times with a 2x4 and then bled it out. Got a lot of air of it and then the left side....then the right side. The left side got some good air out while the right side only got a little. Then I went and rebled the LSPV again. :D

BTW...did you lift it from the differential or from the frame? You'll need to do it from the differential. ;)

Need to back-up...got the tires to spin and stop. Undid the valve (clogged like the last one). Pumped up the brakes, before I took the valve out, blasted the petal twice and purged the LSVP. Cleaned the clogged valve with PB blaster and blew it out. tasted like crap for the record!!

Put the valve back in, bled it, and it gave me twice the PEDAL!! Spun the tires, hit the brakes and stopped before the about when the pedal was halfway down instead of to the floor.

More tomorrow!

THANKS BAM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

PS Jacked from the differential.

Morning BAM and other with brake problemos....

The tires did actually spin and stopped slow when the brake was to the floor. Here's what I did:

Pumped up the brakes until I got some pedal.

Pulled out the bleeder valve on the LSVP and cleaned with PB Blaster as no fluid was coming out at all. Took about 45 minutes as I took my time and was gentle with the valve so as not to get anything stuck in it.

Brake fluid was drizzling out of the LSVP, but gushing. With the bleeder out, I pressed the brakes three or four times. Some rust and debris came out of the "purge."

Put the bleeder valve back on and bled the LSVP.

Spun the tires and they stopped with the pedal halfway to the floor instead of all the way to the floor.

I will bleed the system out Thursday or Friday and road test it.

However, it looks like the LSVP was the culprit with the brake pressure.

Thanks BAM :clap:

Now you can also test the e-brake. Same as before...jack up the rear. Spin the tire by hand...pull on the handle. Tires should stop. If not, the e-brake may be out of adjustment or frozen. Is it pretty stiff to pull? Check the cable to make sure it's working that bellcrank.

Will do brother!

'95 T100 2wd 1/2 ton extended cab no ABS 3.4l auto

I have had problems with my brakes for a long time now.
It all started close to 2 years ago when i changed front pads. I finally decided to attempt to fix it.
My pedal goes almost all of the way to the floor. I can pump it a couple times, but it's like it won't hold the pressure, it will eventually sink back down to the floor. I can still stop, but Im getting tired of running out of pedal. it seems dangerous.

Last night i was working on it till 2:00am First i took all of the old fluid out of the res. and filled it back with new fluid, then bled all of the brakes with a vacuum bleeder, trying to get out all of the old fluid, that didn't seem to help.

Then i replaced the master cylinder, i bench bled it with my vac bleeder, and bled all of the brakes again. and still nothing! The pedal just slowly sinks down.

To test that LSPV you guys were talking about, i was on a dirt/gravel road and slammed on the brakes, the rears locked but the fronts did not.
does that mean the LSPV is good?

oh and because there was mention of e brake, I pulled mine at around 25mph and it was able to stop my truck. so its working too.

Now what??

Starting to get frustrated with it. :(

It sounds like there is still air in the lines. I tried bleeding with a vac bleeder and wasn't very successful with it. Wound having my kid help, and that worked alot better.

I would try (and you'll hate this) but unscrew the bleeder valves on the front and clean them. They might be clogged. That was my issue on the the rear and my LSPV. There was debris in the valves and around the pinhole on the valve. You'll see it when you clean it. If the valve is dirty, it won't let the brake fluid go through properly and you can bleed now and forever...

While the valve is off, have someone depress the brake pedal and blow out any possible debris in there. Then, replace the valves, and bleed out the system again.

If the rears locked up and not the front, I'm guessing the problem is in the front somewhere and dirty valves is a good, easy, and cheap place to start

Could air get in the line if the line has never been opened?

also, say there is an air bubble close to the master cylinder, when you bleed, does the bubble go faster through the fluid, then the fluid runs? in other words, would the bubble travel faster than the fluid through the lines? does that make sense?
How many times should i cycle a bleed procedure on one bleeder? To ensure its 100% bled.

Thanks Cook, Im all about cheap and easy! Will try that next time I can get some help!

also, like I was saying, it all started when I changed the front brake pads, I pressed the piston back into the caliper without opening the bleeder, i didn't know you had to open the bleeder, or its a good idea to, ill NEVER make that mistake again!!!! I'm guessing that's where the problem came from.

If the lines are corroded, its possible there could be a crack somewhere letting air in.

I'd check around that caliper tonight to see if there is any fluid around the mechanism. If there is, that's probably where the problem is. Maybe a seal or sumthin.

I'm a novice on the bleed. What I do is fluid, air, fluid, lock the bleeder, pump the brake, repeat until you get nothing but fluid.

I'd let the truck sit for a day and let the fluid and air settle. You could also micro-bubbles in the lines too. Clean the bleeder valves and then try a full bleed.

Somwhere on these posts Bam, our resident expert, lists out the proper bleeding order. Find that and follow it.

Did you have any luck yet?

Cook

sorry for the delayed reply
I got tired of fooling with the brakes and burned the truck to the ground... well not really, lol
I took it to a mechanic, he bled and bled but no luck, so im pretty sure bleeding is not the prob.
We decided to try another master cylinder that I did not install, so I bought a brand new one this time with res. for $10 cheaper than the re manufactured one without a res. but unfortunately still nothing, they seem to be a little better but not much

Its still at the shop today, he is going to play with the LSPV and clean it out even though i don't think that's the prob.

Ill let you guys know what i find out, hopefully good news.

just bought my 95 xtra cab 4x4 auto...yep brake issues as well. first discovered the ebrake is frozen...passenger side is stuck BAD...time to get out the hammer!

doesnt look as if the rear brakes have worked in some time...i am trying to decide if i really want to play with them or just take to a brake service shop and pay the money?

i bet the lspvxvblt valve thingy is also going to be a problem on this truck! LOL

oh well. old truck old truck problems right?

just bought my 95 xtra cab 4x4 auto...yep brake issues as well. first discovered the ebrake is frozen...passenger side is stuck BAD...time to get out the hammer!

doesnt look as if the rear brakes have worked in some time...i am trying to decide if i really want to play with them or just take to a brake service shop and pay the money?

i bet the lspvxvblt valve thingy is also going to be a problem on this truck! LOL

oh well. old truck old truck problems right?

Yep...they're a pain in the :headbang:

However, I LOVE MINE....


My money is on the LSPV being clogged.

OK fellas
Picked up my truck from the shop the other day, the brakes are better, but still not perfect.
the back brakes still are the only ones that lock up in heavy braking, the fronts used to.
i can still pump and gain a little more pedal
sometimes i have more pedal than others, maybe depending on temperature?

its so darn annoying!

The shop mechanic dude is younger, so im sure he doesn't know all of the tricks, but his shop was neat and professional looking. that's always a plus for me.
He finally gravity bled the brakes, an old Toyota mechanic told him it was the best way, better than vac or pressure bleeding.

so at this point i guess im ready to accept the fact that this is it.
I really like the truck, and I will have to keep it, but I wish it was like it used to be.

Hey Brando,
I'd really try what I suggested earlier on. Take out the bleeder valves on the rear brakes and the LSPV and clean them carefully. There is a tiny "pin hole" at the bottom of each valve. Use a thin paper clip to work in and out of the wholes. Try to get what's clogginh those valves cleaned up and the brakes will have more fluid gettting to them.

You'll get your petal back :naughty:

Use a 10mm 6 point socket...

took my 95 in to toyota dealership today for the timing belt change...360$

told them i would like them to check the brakes as well...called me up and said 800$ to replace the front calipers and brake lines...i said NO THANKS

went to oreilly and ordered new calipers for 80 bucks a pair. new lines will be another 50 or so... guess i'll be working on brakes this weekend. i may just pull the bed off the truck and replace all of the lines and clean the lsv then too.

darn old vehicles. costs you no matter if you have a new one with a payment or an older one with maintenance.

so are there any tricks or secrets to removal of old ones?

OK fellas
Picked up my truck from the shop the other day, the brakes are better, but still not perfect.
the back brakes still are the only ones that lock up in heavy braking, the fronts used to.
i can still pump and gain a little more pedal
sometimes i have more pedal than others, maybe depending on temperature?

its so darn annoying!

The shop mechanic dude is younger, so im sure he doesn't know all of the tricks, but his shop was neat and professional looking. that's always a plus for me.
He finally gravity bled the brakes, an old Toyota mechanic told him it was the best way, better than vac or pressure bleeding.

so at this point i guess im ready to accept the fact that this is it.
I really like the truck, and I will have to keep it, but I wish it was like it used to be.

Don't take the bed off the truck. It's not necessary. I had the exact same problem with 93.

Run the lines visually and see if there is any break fluid leaking around the lines and connectors first. Park the truck where there is no stains on the ground and hit the brakes a few times and leave the windows down and listen for a leak as well.

Check the resevoir fluid before you start. Then check again after the "test."

I'm still betting the bleeder valves are clogged and there is still air in the lines. Seriously, clean those vales if there is no fluid on the ground or leaking from the lines.

Let me know how it works.

Cook

front right caliper keeps sticking. not all the time but a few times in the past 2 weeks.

i was simply going to take the bed off to make life easier with replacing all the lines PLUS i could give the frame a good wire wheeling and undercoat it while im there.

new calipers,pads,lower lines, fluid a brake line bender and new spark plugs..189$

brakes are much better... so i will drive for a while and see how it works...

Brando8844, Was wondering if you ever got your brake problem fixed? I have the same problem and I replaced everything you have. The only thing I haven't replaced is the power booster. I'm still trying and I'm keeping the truck no matter what!!!!

Brando8844, Was wondering if you ever got your brake problem fixed? I have the same problem and I replaced everything you have. The only thing I haven't replaced is the power booster. I'm still trying and I'm keeping the truck no matter what!!!!


I did fix the problem. unconventionally though...
I just bought a 05 Tundra double cab, V8 it stops real good lol

I hated to see the T100 go, it still ran as smooth as it was in its younger years, had 157,000 miles on it (barely broke in)
The brakes drove me insane... i was just tired of working on them, and not being able to stop safely without pumping the brakes is very dangerous.. the paint was all scratched up from my dog riding, seats were wearing out, I had no choice right??? Really though, im sad about the whole deal...

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh110/Brando8844/Tundra.jpg

I wish you all luck who are battling the brake issues.
I guess this is me signing out of the T100 forum.
Thanks everyone for all your help!

Thanks for the info. I hope your happy with the new one. If anyone else has had this problem and fixed it I would appreciate any info.