need head repair

hey kevin can it be possible to score a "group-buy" on the rebuilt head?

My buddy (from club si) drives an ekcivic hatch with a 5 bolt type r lug conversion (suspension/brakes, etc) and he had just purchased an ae86 from Brampton.

Only problem is that it doesn;t have the head assembled to the rest of the engine, and that the engine actually had a blown head gasket.

sooo.. does anyone think they can get this engine up and running or know of a shop that can get the engine going in a month or so?

thanks
andrew

Another Honda owner going back to the old school Toyotas! Ya! :grin:

Anyways, I'm most likely going to Elite Auto for the head swap. They gave me a good estimate, but the only thing I'm concerned with is that, from what I heard, they are not certified mechanics.

Group buy? Maybe? But I'm getting the head done next year.

No money = no car :sad:

Kevin

I currently have 2 ae86's sitting in my apartment parking lot.. I almost don't know what to do with them.. i know hte head gasket on 1 is ok.. *pretty* sure the same about the other one.. are these parts re-usable?

if so, i may a possible source for your friend.. i'm not looking to make a lot of money here (if any).. i kind need to get rid of these cars soon anyway.. if your friend can help me get teh tranny and clutch out of one of the cars, maybe we can just work together..

mr. sinister

Are you talking about the aftermarket one or the OEM one?

It's probably better, I'm guessing, to get new a gasket while the head is out. That's exactly what I'm doing, though my gasket is perfectly fine. You wouldn't want to take the head off a second time right. :wink:

I'm having ample parts replaced while I'm having the head my swapped.

That's why I don't have enough money - to pay for the new parts for avoid any future mishaps.

Don't know. My opinion.. I'm usually wrong :lol:

Thanks,
Kevin

Hi Everyone,

I'm the new guy. So anyway, I would like to do most of the work myself. Basically the head is apart right now. I'll probably take the pieces to a shop to get them to check that everything is ok. For sure I need a new gasket and perhaps while the thing is opened, I'll look at other gaskets and seals. But I want to know, how difficult is it to put back together. Provided I have the specs and the tool, it's just a matter of time, right? Also, for sure I'll need a e-brake cable and windshield (two large cracks). I get the car trailered over here on Monday so I'm going to look thru it more thoroughly then and see if I need anything else. The bottom end looks ok. The guy poured some oil into each cylinder and then seem to be holding the oil ok so I'm guessing the rings are fine. Pistons and cylinder walls are clean. Head also looks clean. Oh yeah, is there a head rebuild kit with a whole bunch of gaskets and seals? Anyone know rough pricing? Thanks.

Welcome to the forum and nice to meet you!

I can't help you much on the technical issues with your car. I'm a car dummy, I just know how to drive.. Not even. Maybe Andrew or Nick (goodcookiedrift - where are you?) can help.

Good luck. I hope you can get your car running again, unlike I.

How does HairpinForDinner sound to you? :grin:

Thanks,
Kevin

good to see breakfast is on the board!

anyways, nick, goodcookiedrift is a little more technical experienced on the 4age than I, as i only know specs and have worked on other stuff but yet to get into the nitty gritty of the engine,

from what i remember you need to know the torque specs of the head really good cuz that is tricky.

we discussed a whole lot about the head when kevin's head died.. so we will reverb all this stuff a little clearer this time!

thanks
andrew

If torque specs are the only concern, then I'm pretty sure I can get the specs from a shop manual. I guess I long as i know how to use the tools and don't do anything stupid, it should be a fun and do-able project.

damn i think that goodcookie is touring OZ right now.. friggin guy!

WHERE ARE YOU!

Wasup, nick currently is in sarnia and not in OZ, as for the head, you have to change the gasket! Whenever you remove a carpart and there is a gasket inbetween the two parts, the gasket must be replaced, as they can only be used once. They create a seal,much like caulking for tiles. Kevin, if your head is currently apart, why don't you replace to a TRD head gasket while your at it? Just wait till you can get more money andthen replace it while you still have them apart, ratherthan having to buy two gaskets and then more time down the road to take the head off/on etc. As for doing the head, it shouldn't be much of a problem, as long as you go slow,and the torque specifications can be found in any Haynes or chilton 1985-1987 Toyota Corolla GT-S manual, found at any Canadian Tire or Toyota Parts counter.
If you are goin to work on the engine or even on an Æ86, I would strongly suggest a manual as they are very essential and useful.

Fatredcircle,

Do you know the approximate cost for a TRD gasket?

I'm looking for all alternative options that will benefit the car in the longrun.. before the new head gets swapped(which will be after the winter).

Other than performance, what other advantages are there of using the TRD gasket? Any in terms of reliability?

Then again, money is always a concern for me. :smile:

Thanks,
Kevin

The TRD 4AG, 0.8mm X 82mm metal head gasket is about $59.00 according to http://www.tedcomponents.com
in terms of reliability, your going to have to ask nick, but most ae86 tuners in japan tend to use this head gasket so, theres gotta be something good about it.

My brother is right. get the trd head gasket to reduce any unneccessayr work and cost in the future. What the trd headgasket does is increase compression due to the thin-ness of it. However, your headgasket is only as effective as the rest of the components in the car. great, you might have a trd head gasket, but you need piston rings, its useless. thats, why you should do all the work while you have the chance to.

While the head is off, i would do all the work on it now -- meaning get the deck shaved, port and polish if you want and work the vlave train. it will be a waste of time and money if you want to do these things and don't do them while the head is off the block.

Nick

Okay, I got some pictures here. Maybe you can tell me whether or not to attempt putting this back together myself. Click the small pics for super large versions.


http://members.home.net/ek-9/CarStuf/AE86-001sm.JPG (http://members.home.net/ek-9/CarStuf/AE86-001.jpg)

http://members.home.net/ek-9/CarStuf/AE86-002sm.JPG (http://members.home.net/ek-9/CarStuf/AE86-002.jpg)

http://members.home.net/ek-9/CarStuf/AE86-003sm.JPG (http://members.home.net/ek-9/CarStuf/AE86-003.jpg)

http://members.home.net/ek-9/CarStuf/AE86-004sm.JPG (http://members.home.net/ek-9/CarStuf/AE86-004.jpg)

http://members.home.net/ek-9/CarStuf/AE86-005sm.JPG (http://members.home.net/ek-9/CarStuf/AE86-005.jpg)

http://members.home.net/ek-9/CarStuf/AE86-006sm.JPG (http://members.home.net/ek-9/CarStuf/AE86-006.jpg)

http://members.home.net/ek-9/CarStuf/AE86-007sm.JPG (http://members.home.net/ek-9/CarStuf/AE86-007.jpg)

http://members.home.net/ek-9/CarStuf/AE86-008sm.JPG (http://members.home.net/ek-9/CarStuf/AE86-008.jpg)

http://members.home.net/ek-9/CarStuf/AE86-009sm.JPG (http://members.home.net/ek-9/CarStuf/AE86-009.jpg)

http://members.home.net/ek-9/CarStuf/AE86-010sm.JPG (http://members.home.net/ek-9/CarStuf/AE86-010.jpg)

http://members.home.net/ek-9/CarStuf/AE86-011sm.JPG (http://members.home.net/ek-9/CarStuf/AE86-011.jpg)

http://members.home.net/ek-9/CarStuf/AE86-012sm.JPG (http://members.home.net/ek-9/CarStuf/AE86-012.jpg)

http://members.home.net/ek-9/CarStuf/AE86-013sm.JPG (http://members.home.net/ek-9/CarStuf/AE86-013.jpg)
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99 EK Civic
87 AE86 (need to get this thing working)


<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: ApexForBreakfast on 2001-09-04 00:51 ]</font>

I don't have enough experience to say anything about the engine, but the body looks pretty decent..

how are the frame rails under the car? floor pan? driver's side shock tower?

I say if the chassis is in good shape, I think it's worth it to get this car fixed up.. you got it for cheap anyway (i think?)

mr. sinister

Yea, the frame is the best. I don't see any rust anywhere. There's actulla rust proofing done on the under body. Just the body panels. there are original stickers on the trunk, doors, under the hood so I'm guessing no major accidents. The Used car report confirmed that. Interior is pretty clean too. Does anyone know how to check engine parts? The head is pretty clean, just carbon. The piston rings seem to hold oil so I'm pretty sure no leaks there. And the Cylinder walls look clean. Can someone confirm this? This is going to be a budget rebuild, don't want to spend on extras yet.

i would take the head and the block to a mechanic/machinist to see if there are any imperfections on the cylinedr wall, piston, head, etc.

get the deck shaved and cleaned up. both surfaces of the head and the block have to be completely clean and flush before the head gasket can go on. Also, i believe you need to put a compound on (i think some jap tuners use a silicone like compund) in between head and gasket/block and gasket to keep a firm seal. go to crappy tire and ask.

whether you plan on going forced ind. or na, plan your steps. meaning, since you've already got the head off, get the appropriate pistons, rings, con rods, head gasket (material and its proper thickness), studs,valves and valve springs before you assemble it and then have to take it apart again.

putting the head back on is not a huge task provided, you have the right torque specifications, torque pattern, and the proper sequence of valves and valve springs/injectors/ect. but it looks like your valves and valve springs are still in tact so that shouldn't be too big of a problem. if i can scan the the torque pattern and settings for the 4age, i'll post it up here.

Nick

Thanks Nick. That woudl be great. Right now I just want to get the motor up and running. So I'm going to replace all the gaskets and seals on the head. Don't really want to overspend with valve springs or other head work. Just need it to run.

in that case, in my humble opinion, you should consider buying another engine as an option. with 4age's going for app. 4 bills, its a steal...but then again, if you are doing the work yourself, you will be saving heaps.

Nick

swapping in an engine is an option ... but more like a last resort. second last would be paying some to put it back together for me. for the next couple of days, it's going to be cleaning for most of what i can get my hands on and then identifying what's what and makeing sure things aren't broke. i guess the situation i have here is, i just need to slap the cylinder head back on, get the cams/injectos/hoses/wires cleaned and put back. i doesn't seem like too much work. fill back up all the liquids and then fire it up. if it works, great! if not, yikes! the brakes are another story. the fronts are ok. but the ebrake cable don't work. plus, when i depress the brake, when we pushed it, the front pads took off some of the rust on the disc. the rears don't seem to have done that. i think maybe they're seized.

with the brakes, could be....remember, theres more bias towards the front. also be sure to check the brake bosster, master cylinder and proportionating valve. all those things could effect it. but worst comes to worst, pull the rear calipers off and get a rebuild kit...fairly inexpensive. the ebrake cable is a cinch. only thing to take note of...and i guess this applies to all 86 tuners, if you break a rusty bolt/screw, be prepared to wait at least 2 days for toyota to order a new one. I've broken many and all i can suggest, is patience and a sh** load of wd-40 and a torch.

Nick

I have a 1998 4x4 p-up with 259,000 miles. The motor runs strong but burns alot of water. I am aware of the head gasket/head recall which is expired for my truck on a 10 year rule. I am looking for a replacement 3.0 motor. What years and modles have the same motor. 1989 to 1992 p-up 2 and 4x4, 4 Runners 2 and 4x4. What about Camarys. How about a Chevy v-8 conversation kit.