While doing my valve cover gasket on my 97 Camry, i realized the cams are really easy to change. I was wondering if i can get performance cams for it & if so from where?

I know they have performance cams for 5sfe mr2's, will these work also?
And what kind of tune if needed?

I recently purchased a 2001 Camry with the 5s-fe engine that had a burnt valve and had been taken apart. I had the head rebuilt and am in the process of putting everything together but think that I am missing parts. On the bottom of the throttle body there are three ports, two of which are for the throttle heater and there is a third port which for the life of me i can not figure out what it goes to. Do any of you know what it goes to or have a diagram that I could look at.

I have a 2001 Camry that now has a funny problem. The driverside power window stops periodically. It can stop at any position in its range and will be non functional for about 3-5 minutes. Then it will work again briefly, then stop working yet again. I took it in and they said it was the motor. So after a new motor and new regulator, the problem still persists. I took it in yet again and they said it is the master switch on the driver side. So after a new master switch, the problem is still there. It appears as though the window motor draws current which causes something to shut off causing the window to stop. After a period of time, it allows the current draw again but only briefly. I am at a loss as to how to proceed. So is my mechanic. Any ideas?
Thanks greatly.

HEy guys ,

When comparing V6 auto to manual or 4 banger auto and manual how much better manuals actually are from autos accelerating wise?

What about 4 banger manual vs v6 auto?

Hey guys, The steering wheel on my camry is vibrating and I'm not sure what the issue is. It happens at all speeds and seems to calm more when I turn the wheel to the left some. It vibrates almost as if I had a flat tire. If anyone can tell me what to look for or what this problem sounds like I would really appreciate it.

thanks in advance.

Josh

Hello,
Recently purchased a 1998 Camry for my daughter to learn to drive. I have put about 600 miles on the car and all seems well.

There is a square button by the shifter that I cannot figure out. It is not the OD - that is on the shifter, this is above the P(arking) letter.

The car did not come with an owners manual. When I press it, nothing seems to happen. What can it be for?

Thanks --

My 95 Camry started dripping oil mostly from oil pump and timing belt cover. What is best way to repair it. Thanks

This is a DIY covering the creation of a normal 3rd brake light, but in high quality LED pieces, not those PNP bulbs that aren't bright enough. Hopefully you guys will learn something. Of course, difficulty rating is very high so I don't expect many people to attempt this but its good knowledge for the future you know? :thumbsup:

*Disclaimer*
I, nor Toyota Nation or Club Lexus take responsibility if you do something wrong and mess up your car. While the chances are low if you do exactly what I did, theres still the chance a small solder bridge between bad parts will blow a fuse on you. So yeah, ATTEMPT AT YOUR OWN RISK!!

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What you need:

1. One Large PCB board that you can solder with (Make sure its a little bigger than your 3rd brake Housing)
2. 30 High quality Superflux LEDs (LumiLEDs are what I'm using)
3. 5 100ohm 1W resistors
4. 2 47ohm 1/2W resistors
5. Solder
6. Red/Black Wires
7. Something to connect to the original wires in your housing (I used wire taps to make it easier to change but you can buy your light bulb base online for PNP use)

You will be wiring the LEDs exactly as the picture above suggests. You're more than welcome to come up with your own layout but my way has been working for quite some time. Its pretty much standard wiring - power > resistor > LED series > ground :thumbsup:


Steps with Photos:

Make an outline of your housing on a piece of paper, cut it out, then trace it along the large PCB board like so.





Now test fit the 30 LEDs to make sure they fit before you cut the board out.





Now cut it out and fit it into your housing with the LEDs taped into place (tape in the back so its easier to "stick" to the board)







Now paint it whatever color you want. I picked black so its easier to see the LED during the day since I removed the diffusor.



Now solder the LEDs from + to - in a single direction according to my paper layout I made for you guys. Connect the +/- of each LED to the one next to it BUT make sure to stop where I showed above.







Now solder in your resistors, power, and ground wires according to my chart. Now you can test fit it and connect it to your housing using the taps (if you followed me), or the bulb bases.





Finished Shots:

Now you're pretty much finished. Place back into your car and enjoy the new look. Its more updated AND if you had an ES, you're less likely to be rear ended during the day due to inefficient 3rd brake/tail lights :thumbsup:

Random angles (seats have now been replaced with perforated leather btw :smokin:)...







Pictures during the afternoon AKA freaking bright sun :thumbsup:











Pictures during sun down AKA 5pm ish









And heres the shot at night, which I'm sure you all are more interested in anyway lol. If anyone was wondering, street signs are illuminated from very far away. Very cool effect at night, especially when there are people rubbing against your ass. Its a good warning light for those bastards :thumbsup:











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And thats it. I hope you enjoyed this DIY. I cut it down from the "work-in-progress" thread over on Club Lexus for my 2ES to make it cleaner for you guys. Of course, it doesn't necessarily apply to just 2ES/Gen 3+4 Camrys, it can apply to anything as long as you have your mind on it. You'll get a tail light out warning light but its easily fixable with another resistor or if you just pull the bulb out from the dash (in which I am doing since I'm doing all LED braking systems).

Good luck to everyone who does this too. Its a fairly simple mod and it goes well with custom LED tails too (more on that when I finish them). Any questions, comments, or concerns are welcome :chug:


Heres my WIP thread over at CL if you want to read up on my revisions and ideas (I'm a Hall of Famer :clap:):
2ES Project Thread: Custom LED Lighting

Hi there

I'm new to this forum so please excuse any stupid questions.

I'm helping my father-in-law with his 95 Camry LE 2.2. It starts and runs fine for 10 -15 minutes, then shuts off. At this point, it will crank but not fire/start. If it cools down, it will start back up until it gets warm again...then off.

We were told it might be the igniter so we pulled it and my FIL took it to a shop and had it tested. They said it was OK. Of course it MIGHT be OK when it is cool.

I was able to get the check engine light codes... 12 & 14. I haven't been able to find a lot on the check engine light codes.

Does anybody have any idea what could be going on? Proactively put in a new cap and rotor, but that didn't help this prob. I'd like to get a code reader but don't know if this car uses OBD I or II. I'd drive it to a shop, but I don't think it would run until I got it there.

ANY help you can offer would be appreciated...my mother-in-law is going nuts with just 1 car between them!

ok so my window was making an awful screeching noise while going down and went very slowly going up. the master switch has always been funky and i have always had to pull up on it hard to get the window to go up. to i took the door panel off took the master switch out and lubed up all the rails the screeching went away then i decided to clean the contacts on the master switch to maybe help the problem and the window went down perfectly but wont go up. i don't hear anything from the motor my lights dont dim, it just acts like nothings going on. but when i tell it to go down the motor sounds as it always does fine. please help

Anybody replace their intake and exhaust manifold gaskets? I think I have some sort of leak going on there.

I have a 5S-FE engine.

i own a 1994 camry le 4 cyl. Yeah so my car is overheating but only when i go over 60mph. idk why but the collant decides to spit out my overflow and go all over i have replaced my thermostat 2x... any suggestions??

1999 2.2 5speed...is this possible to turbo? i know that i wont ever see her past 200hp but it would be fun to give her some more kick.i have a little over $1,000 with more avail soon. i was reading that the newer 5sfe engines wont fit up to some part.is this true? I did use the search feature but i really didn't find anything that would answer my question. i would be doing all of the install myself too if it ends up being possible. how much am i looking to spend realistically? also i saw posts about turbo kits but they seemed to be a couple years old. are there kits or do i need to buy everything separate.

thanks
:)

Replaced EGR Valve, EGR Valve Pipe, and both gaskets today.

I was pretty paranoid about the low clearance under the front of the car, so I used everything in my dad's garage to jack the car up and keep myself safe.

Two jack stands. A 2.5 ton hydraulic jack, and the jack from my trunk. I made sure all four pieces were supporting the vehicle by lowering the two jacks onto a stands a little bit after placing the stands under the car.




Wheel chocks in the rear.




Nut #1 is located in the same position as Nut #2 on the other side of the EGR Valve. A 12mm socket is needed to remove these. Nut #1 may require a longer socket, or a very short extension to remove.




This is the view from directly under the car. The end of the pipe has a 24mm compression nut on it. Use a wrench to remove it. The process may be slow, as there is very little room to move the wrench around. After it's loosened up a bit, you can use your hand to turn it the rest of the way.




There wasn't nearly as much carbon build-up in the valve as I had expected. Another user posted a picture of his, filled with black gunk.

I decided to replace the metal pipe as well. This isn't really necessary, as it could be cleaned and reused. Nevertheless, because I was replacing it, the large compression nut needed to be removed. There is a compression ring (a.k.a. "ferrule" or "olive") at the very bottom of the pipe. This ring can be removed with a pare of pliers, pulling it off in a twisting motion. Be sure to do this carefully, so the ring is not deformed or damaged.






New EGR Valve and gaskets. Put the compression nut back onto the pipe, and re-place the compression ring onto the new pipe in the same position as it was on the old pipe.



Re-attach pipe to the valve with the new metal gasket, using the same or new bolts.

Replace the valve in the reverse order of it's removal.


NOTES:
The two bolts holding the valve and pipe together were extremely rusted. One of them actually broke in the process. A can of PB Blaster will help in their removal. Luckily, I had some bolts and washers that fit the threading/length. I don't know the number, but they are the same threading as the bolts used to attach the radiator fans to the top of the radiator.

The old gasket for the back of the EGR Valve will be stuck to the intake manifold. A very thin flathead screwdriver or knife can be used to break that off. It will probably come off in pieces. I used some lacquer thinner on a rag to clean that surface before putting the new gasket on.

Looking back, I should have ordered the bolts, two nuts, and compression nut/ring in advance, and just replaced everything.

Also, screwing the compression nut back on... some grease on the threading would have helped that go on much smoother and more quickly.

Lastly, wear gloves. I didn't. The crap that will get onto your hands will be difficult to wash off. And I sustained a couple minor cuts.

Hey guys im new and have a 1994 camry le and it is auto but i want to change it to manual any suggestions and is it hard to do? and how much would it run me to do so??