MAP Sensor
There are 3 wires on a MAP sensor. It requires MAP signal, 5V reference, and sensor ground. If you're using an AEM MAP sensor: MAP signal is green or white, 5V reference is red, and sensor ground is black. The signal wire needs to be dedicated, meaning that should be the only wire making contact with that pin. The sensor ground and 5V reference wire can be tapped. Please follow the pin out below to wire in your MAP sensor. If you did everything correctly, with an AEM 3.5 bar MAP sensor, your MAP voltage (setup/sensors/map sensor parameters) should be about 1.6V with the key on engine off, with an AEM 5 bar MAP sensor, your MAP voltage should be about 1.3V with the key on engine off. Remember to select the correct sensor in your MAP sensor wizard.


MAP signal - Pin 17A
Sensor ground - Pin: 9B and 4C (tap to one of these)
5V Reference - Pin: 1B (tap to this pin)

Air Intake Temp. Sensor
There are 2 wires on a AIT sensor. Polarity does not matter. It requires AIT signal and sensor ground. Please follow the pin out below to wire in your AIT sensor. Remember to select the correct sensor in you AIT sensor wizard.

AIT signal - Pin 3B
Sensor ground - Pin: 9B and 4C (tap to one of these)

Boost Solenoid
There are 2 wires on a boost solenoid. Polarity does not matter. It requires switched 12V and PW2 on EMS. Please follow the pin out below to wire in your boost solenoid.

PW2 - Pin 1C


Wideband (this is for EMS without built in wideband)
If you're using 30-4100 (Gauge type wideband controller), 30-2300/2301 (Dual/Single channel wideband controller), or other wideband controller with a 0-5V output, you will need to tap the 0-5V output wire to the O2#1 or O2#2pin on your EMS. White wire on 30-4100, and orange wire on the 30-2300/2301. Please follow the pin out below to wire in your wideband.

O2#1 - Pin 6B
O2#2 - Pin 14B


To setup the sequential injection follow this.

Injector 4 pin 10C
Injector 5 pin 11C
Injector 6 pin 12C

Then to set it up in AEM pro.
Click "options" then "injectors"
Injectors 1,2,3,7,8,9,10 should be set to "active" and "O2 feedback 1" and "primary"
4,5,6 should not have anything selected.

Then go to "fuel" and then "advanced fuel" then "injector phasing" and finally "options"

Set the injector phase to 0
Inject Tooth #01=19.00
Inject Tooth #02=11.00
Inject Tooth #03=3.00
Inject Tooth #04=0
Inject Tooth #05=0
Inject Tooth #06=0
Inject Tooth #07=15.00
Inject Tooth #08=23.00
Inject Tooth #09=7.00
Inject Tooth #10=0

After that you should be good to go on sequential fuel.



Ignitor options.

Toyota DH61


OEM PIN NAME ~~ DH61 PIN name
B+ ~~ +B
*body ground* ~~ GND *Need to add pin here to ground the ignitor
IGT ~~ T1
IGDA ~~ T2
IGDB ~~ T3
IGF ~~ not used for AEM, **good wire for ECU re-pin for MAP sensor
IG1 ~~ C1 We drove coil 1-6
IG2 ~~ C2 We drove coil 2-5
IG3 ~~ C3 We drove coil 3-4
IG- ~~ Tach

Part numbers:
89621-30030 - DH61 Igniter **These change from year to year, and IS's and GS's are different
90980-11653 - Housing, Connector
82998-12440 - Terminal, Connector

Mitsubishi 3kgt ignitor, I recommend not using this one as it requires the use of a tach driver for the gauge.
VB - 12 volt positive
GND - Ground
IB1 - coil output #1 from AEM (factory iGt wire)
IB2 - coil output #2 from AEM (factory iGda wire)
IB3 - coil output #3 from AEM (factory iGdb wire)

OC1 - output to coils 1 - 6
OC2 - output to coils 2 - 5
OC3 - output to coils 3 - 4





To set up the new ignition system in AEM Pro follow these steps.


*Ignition*
*Advanced Ignition*
*Ignition Phasing*
*Options-Ign phasing*
Then there will be a table, set the perimeters to the following.

Ignition sync: 0.16
Pickup Delay Comp: 130.00

IGN Tooth #1: 21.53
IGN Tooth #2: 1.53
IGN Tooth #3: 5.53

IGN Tooth #4: 0.00

IGN Tooth #5: 0.00

IGN Tooth #6: 9.53

IGN Tooth #7: 13.53

IGN Tooth #8: 17.53

IGN Tooth #9: 0.00

IGN Tooth #10: 0.00


Then to turn off the multi-plexing
*Ignition*
*Advanced Ignition*
*Multi-Plex Coil*
*Options*
The uncheck the box that says "Ign Mux Ign#1"


To run the IS300 coils you will need to run the setup wizard for the coils to do this in AEM Pro follow these steps.
*Ignition*
*Advanced Ignition*
*Coil Dwell Setup*
*Coil Dwell Wizard*
Select "Toyota Coil (93-98 3.0L Non Turbo)

With that you should be set to start the tuning process.

Thanks to Steve (toyotanos) For the information on the DH61 wiring, and to Sean (Xman) For helping me when I was first setting up my AEM EMS.

I am looking at buying this supra and wondering what you guys think. Price ok? What should i look for before buying? Any known problems with this year? Heres a link http://kalamazoo.craigslist.org/cto/1464942364.html

Thanks,

Colby

hey this is kinda a shot in the dark but im looking for a 2jz or 1jz turbo head, need all in internals but the manifolds not necessarily need although would be good to get haha, if anybody has or know where i could possibly find one its be greatly appreciate, thanks

well i have a 88, and the turbo seal are pretty much no good, i have to say that the oil seal is shot, due to a lot of oil in the intake pipes, and all over the T/B, but still gives 5-7 psi with no problems, is it worth to rebuild or replace? i would like to rebuild it, but the problem is that, does any one knows a place that can balance the turbo? i dont want to take a chance of putting it back together, and some thing gets messed up

Hey everyone i just picked up my first 1991 Toyota Supra Turbo. Im glad i got it except for the fact that the reverse light does not work and i need to wire it directly. So im wondering if anyone knows how to like hardwire it in like straight from the ecu or something. I just need it to work so if you can help me out that would be great thanks.

I need some guidance for an issue that I am having with my tail lights. When i first bought the car the running lights didn't work. So I changed all the bulbs out and the fuses and they still didnt work. I found a trailer hookup wire that was installed. I took it out and wired everything back. Now the running lights work but the Brake lights dont work now. Anyone can help me please. :headbang:

I am having problems deciding on which exhaust system to put on my 7gme. I have found a couple for example pace setter. i really like greddy that is what i had on my prelude and i loved it. Can anyone give me some good pointers:headbang:

So, i'm looking at buying a 1990 Supra, and im not too familiar with import tuners, all my cars have been pre 70's classic muscle cars, thus far. and am still a learning mechanic.

Here's the specs:

SUSPENSION/BRAKES:
New Russel Performance Full Stainless Steel DOT Brakelines(all 6)
Drilled and Slotted Rotors
New KYB GR-2 Lifetime Warranty Shocks and Struts
Rebuilt Brake Calipers
New Factory Toyota Shock Mounts

INTERIOR:
New GT Grant steering wheel and Adapter
'95 JDM mazda Rx7 Tan Leather Seats
Triple Gauge pillar and Gauges
New Black dashboard cover(no cracks in dash)
5" Autometer Monster tach/shift light
Battery relocated to rear of the car
JDM Suede shift boot and B&M leather shift knob
Custom switch panel

DRIVETRAIN:
Motor: 7MGTE 3.0l Turbo 24v
-std cylinder bore rebuild
-Cylinders honed
-Deck Resurfaced
-Pressure Tested(magnafluxed)
-All New Freeze plugs installed
-Block painted black to match powdercoat
-All work professionally done and all Gaskets replaced
-New timing belt/tensioner assembly
-New piston rings
-New wrist pins
-Polished forged crank
CYLINDER HEAD:
-Completely rebuilt:
-Resurfaced
-Valve grind
-Valve Job
-New Seats
-New Valve stem grommets
-Pressure tested (magnafluxed)
-ARP performance head bolts used in reassembly
-New Full Metal Head Gasket (7mgte is notorious for blowing head gaskets.. Metal head gasket and arp head bolts are the problem solver :)

TRANSMISSION:
-W-158 Long ratio trans used for comfortability-driveability
-New Slave Cylinder
-New Centerforce Stage 2 clutch
-freshly Resurfaced flywheel
-New Clutch hose from slave to mastercylinder
-Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Oil Used ONLY
-New factory Crush washers and new problem solver drain and fill plug

DIFFERENTIAL:
-Mobil 1 fully synthetic Gear oil used ONLY
-New factory Toyota crush washers and problem solver fill and drain plugs
-New differential cover gasket

FUEL/AIR:
-Freshly Rebuilt Turbo (.010 shaft play)-(factory specs allow between .015-.020)
-K&N Airfilter
-Stainless Filter Adapter to Mass Airflow Sensor
-Meigan B.O.V
-New NGK Laser Iridium Spark plugs
-New Fuel Pump/Strainer/Filter/clamps

WHEELS/TIRES:
-New 1992 Factory 16x7 Turbo wheels
-New Metal(bolt in) valve stems
-New KUMHO AST 245/50r-16 Tires (no miles at all)
-New Gorilla Locks Lug Nuts

EXTERIOR:
-Factory Hard to find front supra crystal emblem
-Smoked Taillights
-Custom TRD mk4 Hood design

EXTRAS:
-New Thermostat
-New Radiator cap
-New Hood and Back hatch Struts
-Hood Pins and lanyards for locks

POWDERCOAT:
-Turbo Compressor Housing
-Valve Covers
-Wheels
-Intake Manifold upper plenum and lower plenum

CAR NEEDS:
Minor but Some assembly may be required
needs: 1 fuel line attatched, engine harness installed, upper and lower radiator hoses, intercooler installed, seats mounted.


And they want 2k for it. basically it comes down to, is it a good deal, or not?

Well looks like a new problem has surfaced! Yay :headbang: anyway it looks as if I am spraying oil under the turbo. I would imagine its the gasket sure hope its the gasket! Anyway I was wanting to know if anyone knew of a place that sells the stock gasket or if I could use a different type

Rebuilt a 87 7mg in my son's supra. Fired up fine, but surges at anything over 800 rpms. It is really bad. It will throttle up and then its like the fuel is cut off and then it will ramp back up to the same rpm and then cut off. Got any ideas?

How do I remove the parking brake cable, passenger side?

I need to replace mine due to a horrible incident related to an aborted attempt to use tire chains on the car in a snow storm. I have it out of the backing plate, but I cannot figure out how to get it out of the frame rail. The manual does not mention this procedure at all - probably because it should not be stuck in there like mine is....

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Anybody try one of these before? I was given one by a friend when he sold his car, and I was thinking about using it with my wideband until I install my maft pro. I just got 550 injectors, a walby fuel pump and a better regulator. I figure I can set up a nice powerband with it. Nay or yay?

Well I finally have made some good progress on my rebuild, just in time for the end of the season.

Pics.






What it looked like complete at the beginning.

Why I had to rebuild.


I am building a new special manifold just for the new setup, that should pan out to be rather cool.

And unrelated our 2jzgte swapped 87 held up great all season long, put down 550rwhp at 22psi, and ran a 12.3 at 18psi.
This spring is going to be a very fun one in deed.