Hi everyone, im new to the forums, so i was wondering if some of you guys can help me out? I just recently bought a 95 tercel manual as my winter car. as soon as i bring it home from the dealership it wont start. over the last week it has been starting randomly with a bit of effort, or by push start. But it almost never starts, i really want to fix this problem, could it be the starter?

Thanks

since this cold weather started ive been having issues starting my car so i thought my fuel pump might be going out and i changed it and still no improvements and im puzled as to what it could be since i havent changed anything on my car in a while and the starter has been changed about 5 yaers ago

again,,help please.
I shorted out something in the fuse box and now my tercel will not start.
I checked all the fuses, I switched all the relay switches in the fuse boxes.
I switched the computor.

NOTHING

My 1995 Tercel has slowly lost its parking brake over the last while so I took apart the rear brakes and took a peek. Brake shoes look like they have about 50% wear left so they seemed fine so I adjusted the brakes with the wheel so that I could barely slip the drum over, tightened it all back up, put the tires back on and a little more hand brake but not enough. So I adjusted the cable from the interior and made it snug, it was tighter yet, but it still wont stop the car from rolling.

Is there another adjustment somewhere or is this a sign I might need new pads/drums or ???

Thanks!

will these fit the stock shock/strut asslembly??? i dont think they will..any ever used them? i orderd some they will be here tomarrow and im going to checkit out..it seem there will be a conflict between the ajustable sleavs and the sping mounts on the sotck struts...same with with my kyb gr2s..anyone shed some light on this??:ugh3:

i bought some strut tower braces from ebay seller price653. as a person who has been involved in motorsports since 2005 i've decent knowledge about what affects what. anyways wanted to stiffen the chassis a little for my little paseo and decided to order some ebay strut tower brace. from my experiance in the past even the cheap $20 ones from other sellers work just as good as cusco, trd, ect... as long as its made of decent material. heres what the sellers discription is about the bars...


"You are bidding on one brand new Paseo strut bar. This is the first step towards strengthening your vehicle's chasis and be able to take on a corner at a higher speed. The best modification for your money, guaranteed. Each strut bar is made with lightweight aluminum to reduce weight while end brackets (tower mounts) are made in premium steel for adding strength and powder coated."

guess what i got. cheap aluminum mounts that can be bent by hand??? this auction info stated it was steel. when i contacted him, he responded by saying its high grade 6061 aluminum... umm 6061 isnt that high grade its one of the most common cheap aluminums out there. where is the powder coat that he advertised all i got was spray can paint quality. i ended up spending 49.99 +18 for shipping. these things are totally useless. when i preload them the mounts end up bending and hitting my hood, deforming my hood. how in the heck does somthing that can be bent by hand brace a chassis whose torsen force is prob somewhere in the 1,000+ lbs. i guess this was just another one of those ebay specials lol... anyways guys beware of these chinese made strut braces. funnest things were the instructions. kinda a shady.. heres how you install followed by a oh yea if i get negative feedback then i wont respond that well to your questions.. wtf is that lol. i shoulda spent the money on cusco or somthing else and done it right the 1st time.....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyot...item2ea72a55db

i need a 5spd transmission for my 95 tercel if anyone know where to get one let me know

I was wondering if anyone has changed from 155/80 13 to 185/65 14. I would be going from 13" all seasons to 14" winters. I would guess that I would ride better. I use this car mostly to go to work. Has anyone used rims from a ford ecsort? The bolt pattern matches so I'm sure they will fit just wanted to confirm about the rims and opinions about going to 14".
Thanks
Cy

Hey
Can anyone tell me or show me where the colant temperature sensor is on a 94 Tercel?
Thanks,
Angie

Hello All,

I`m new to this forum. First new car I bought was a 90 tercel. Sold after family grew and went with 1 of each of the "Big Three". Then came to my senses and bought a 91 Tecel.

Have had it for now for 7 years and other then normal maintenance have not put any money into it. The head gasket blew letting Antifreeze into cylinder but not into oil (Thank You Tercel Gods). Have it apart but want to know how to check if Heads are cracked. Any Suggestions are welcome!

Chris

so i have the 3EE 94 tercel and im pretty sure under the battery there is a tranny mount? if so can some1 put pics or links to that up plz? ive replaced every other mount on my car....... LOL

So my 97 Paseo Convertible rear spring broke! Seems like it's been this way for awhile, didn't notice until I was re-packing the bearings this last week end. Most likely happened when I was hauling a motor for my 240SX in the trunk.

My question is are 90, 91, or 94 Tercel rear springs the same as a 97 Paseo?

It seems from the junk yards I have called, all the springs have been cleaned off the Paseos, so I am going to try a local you pull it yourself place, but all they have is Tercels.

New here: hello !

I had bought a 92 paseo from a buddy of mine for 600$ about 8 months ago, put new rod bearings in it about 3 months ago and managed to turbo it about 2 months ago for about 200$ using a ct9 and 4e mani.

Well, a friend of mine had a blowout and didnt have a spare tire, so I let him use my pase "i have a 98 4runner as a daily" so he can run around and get his tire fixed... well, he is on the way back to his apt. when a guy in a brand new, still has paper tags-2010 chevy silverado and low and behold, the guy is an insurance agent lol!

the car looked pretty bad, but after I removed the hood, pulled the lower core support out with my winch, it drove like before:thumbsup:
but the insurance company gave my 2500$ and totaled the registration so I cant drive it.

I started brain storming what to use the engine in... my 83 ae71 convertible corolla? my 81 starlet?

the choise was obvious... starlet, mint body, original everything.

I pulled the engine, harness, interior harness etc, and swapped it over to the kp61 chassis, used hockey pucks for engine mounts, and a T50 tranny. Made a driveshaft out of drilling pipe and its still got the stock rear end... for now.

It was a nightmare getting it to fit with the stock oil pan... i had to cut the intake mani in half, flip it around and weld couplers to the runners to make it FR compatibel and not FF.

didnt have room for exhaust piping, so I made a up-pipe... commonly mistaken for a hood stack. lol

had a weird sirging while trying to idle problem so I pulled off the high idle mechanism and made a blockoff plate for it.

here are a few pics of progress.

a sad day in paseo history


making the starter fit on the wrong-sided bell housing.

assembled megasquirt to use in place of the ECU

making the driveshaft

hockey puck motor mounts

engine sitting in place

sneak peak at the turbo- rebult 1k miles ago

here's as it sits now.




heres the videos of the donor paseo RIP:disappoin
http://youtube.com/results?search_ty...&search=Search

videos of the starlet are uploading now... ill post em later.

1981 S KP61 Starlet

I never had to go through this long period of bleedind process before. There's air in the brake system and I've been bleeding since day one. What happen is the brake pedal is spongy(No response) and then after a second pump, the brakes works. I have tried the 2 man and one man bleed method and still the same with no Ebrake. Check for leaks n nothing, all lines are good, and did a lot of research.

Right now I've recently changed a new brake master cylinder, bench bleed twice(outside and on the car). During the bench bleed test, used a phillip and press the piston and watch the fluid in clear tube going back in the reservoir. During the releasing of the phillip screw driver, the fluid in the tube sucks back in the nipples. Is that normal for a new one?

So i went ahead and bleed starting from the right rear(US KP61) and had someone pump the pedal 5 times. There was a bit of fluid coming out and close the valve and release the pedal. Did it again, but this time nothing comes out, again and nothing still. I'm confuse?

This time I went and bought a hand pump vacuum bleeder. I got a bit of pressure to the pedal, but once I got to the last one, it's all gone...mushy pedal..

I also did the one man OEM brake bleed kit(Bottle, and tube) and bleed all of them. There were no bubbles in the tube lines as they came out solid from the tube, but the pedal is still spongy...Although, first step pedal I get a lot of resistance to push out the fluid and onthe second pump, no pressure or push. I have to wait a little longer and it works again