EFI super weird start problem

[chrices]

ok here it is I have an 87 22R-E with only 155K with EFI not air and an automatic trans. The truck runs great it has all new toyota plugs wires cap rotor. there is no miss and when running it has good power. it has a new fuel pressure regulator (toyota also). the previous owner looks to have put in a fuel filter. I put a new thing that goes on the air filter box also. My buddy it a toyo mechanic but is to old for him to know about. I have the toyota book but still cant figure it out. the truck has fuel and spark but does not seem to know to run.

Problem
THe truck does not start but runs great. The way I start it is spray engine start fluid in the intake when the engine is off. crank the motor for about 5 seconds stop and then the motor starts sputters until it rev it up and then is good to go. the kicker is in the morning it will sometimes start on it own. or if you let it sit for a few days it will start easy but it is hardest to restart after a long idle or a long intown drive

the check engine light
is on when cranking and then turns off upon starting and will light up going down the raod at about 50 sometimes. codes flashed were 5 and 6 one an oxygen sensor and the other is this
RPM SIGNAL-NO SIGNAL TO ECU FROM DISTRIBUTOR ("Ne" OR "G") AFTER ENGINE HAS BEEN CRANKED --DISTRIBUTOR/CIRCUIT
--STARTERSIGNAL CIRCUIT
--IGNITER/IGNITER CIRCUIT
--ECU



tests
I have checked with a ohm meter the distributor and the wiring and it all tests good
The ignition coil is great toyota part and look new all the ignition is good becasue I have very strong spark
The ECU cant be the problem it is in good shape
I an not sure about the starter signal but it cranks great.
I teated the start time sensor and it was good
tested the water temop sensor also good.
I tested varios other relays and sensors all good.
I replaced the EFI relay in the drivers kick panel

Anyone with some good segestions because I am stumped

[qsd-dan]

Classic symptoms of a bad signal generator. It's located in the distributor and has a wire coming out of it with a green plug at the end which connects to the ignitor. These almost always fail with a warm or hot motor and they show the proper ohms when cold, but then skyrocket as the engine warms up, causing the engine to die.

To test the signal generator, unplug the green connector and ohm out the distributor side of the connector. The spec is 140-180 ohms. Ohm it out with BOTH a cold and hot engine.

[fl acc toy truk]

try checking your cold start injector
unplug it and c if it makes a difference

[Vicoor]

clear the codes and see what comes back. If the one for the signal generator (G and NE) comes back then look closely there. make sure that you are diligent. I've seen these things that would not give themselves up till tested several times during the nostart condition.