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Old 09-10-2007, 11:42 PM   #31
89 2wd
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Installation was soo much easier than removal.
Pic from the driver side:

From the passenger side:


For those who are worried because this stabilizer doesn't have a ball joint, with the space on each side of the washers, and the size of the bushing, I'm reallly not worried about this one. I had someone turn the wheel while I looked from under and theres really not that much flex. I would rather replace it at a third of the cost (in a third of the time too) sooner than to get OEM.
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Old 09-11-2007, 01:28 PM   #32
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Cool! So it works! I'll look into it for the 84 pickup. I didn't realize there was no ball joint nore boot for the piston. But its cheap and works so cool!



Again, Thanks for pics!


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Old 09-11-2007, 02:23 PM   #33
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I added a shock boot when I installed mine. Not sure it helps but I figured it couldn't hurt.
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Old 10-04-2007, 06:45 AM   #34
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Well I came to the conclusion that the engine has the knock sensor but the harness doesn't. Turns out the engine has been swapped out for a running one. So I'm going to assume that the original engine didn't have the knock sensor. That is why there is no wire on the harness and only a sensor on the block.
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Old 06-17-2008, 01:49 PM   #35
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What is that FPIG stuff and what do you reccommend it for? I am replacing timing chain and head gasket on a 93 toyota 22re. I take it you get it from a toyota dealer.
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Old 06-17-2008, 07:20 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DinosaurJr View Post
What is that FPIG stuff and what do you reccommend it for?
FIPG= Form In Pace Gasket.

It's used in areas where sealant is advised per the factory service manual.

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Originally Posted by DinosaurJr View Post
I take it you get it from a Toyota dealer.
Yep, or you can get it online from 1sttoyotaparts.com if you have the part# on hand.
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Old 07-05-2008, 06:35 PM   #37
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Yeah, part number is on the FIPG that I posted on page one. If you look at the tube you will nee the part number on it.

I still have a leak though and I don't know where its coming from. May end up taking the engine out and seeing if I can figure out where its from. I know for sure my steering gear is leaking, but oil is too.
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Old 07-07-2008, 07:18 PM   #38
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Sorry for the dumb question, but what is the easiest way to remove the oil pan? I'm replacing my timing set, and I'm to the point of putting the timing cover back on, but i had to drop the pan. I see a few ways I can do it, but what is the easiest?
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Old 07-08-2008, 06:00 PM   #39
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You'll have to remove the lower cross member and steering dampner. The the idler arm (I think thats what it is) on the passenger sidewall to lower everything enough for the pan to clear.

Then you'll have to also remove the oil pickup before the oil pan will clear.




It has 3 bolts if I remember corectly at the front of the pan.
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Old 07-29-2008, 02:06 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V62WDLongbed View Post
Here is a Gabriel steering damper I found at AutoZone for about $26 (part number 6802SE)

Bring the thread back from the dead.

How do I install this if there is no ball joint or fisheye bracket? The kit looks exactly like picture shown.
Two open ends with two sets of bushings.
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Last edited by phatmitzu; 07-29-2008 at 02:08 AM.
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Old 07-29-2008, 09:12 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qsd-dan View Post
Steering damper is part# 45700-39035. The dealer will charge you at least $157.00, 1sttoyotaparts.com shows $109.78.

NSS? Are you referring to the neutral safety switch?

In regards to the timing chain; if you want to replace it, get the parts from engndler.com. His parts are second best to OEM and the driver side rail is metal instead of plastic.

http://www.engnbldr.com/toyota_ala_carte.htm
I bent mine forever ago and it was just removed, this was a 2WD and truck was fine
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