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12-13-2009, 04:13 PM
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#31
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Official TN Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Canada
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Has anyone who bought these bars off eBay already have the factory bars from toyota? If so, any comments comparing the two, specifically wrt flexibility/ridigity, would be sincerely appreciated. I might consider these if more rigid than OEM.
Cheers.
__________________
09 Blk HL Sport, loaded Cdn version: 4WD, blk leather int.
Mods: tinted windows; upgraded headlight and fog bulbs; bug deflector; Ichiba 15mm bolt on wheel spacers, Pioneer FH-P8000BT head unit; Blaupunkt underseat sub, Viper 5901 security/auto start, stainless dual exhaust tip, horns.
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12-13-2009, 05:12 PM
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#32
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New TN User
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: North Jersey
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I just did a quick measure. Its consistent along the length of the cross bar... but there are elevated points in the roofline that runs front to back. its either about 7/8" clearance to bottom of crossbar or 1-1/8" to bottom of crossbar.
My thule box clamps to touch the roof even when clamped down but shouldnt be too big a deal since there rubber coated. I may put another piece of rubber between them to be sure nothing digs in at any point.
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12-13-2009, 06:03 PM
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#33
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New TN User
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Location: Nebraska
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Can anyone who has installed the cross bars himself/herself post a detailed instruction on how to install them? It seems that it is very easy to break the clips inside the rear cover when removing them. The instruction coming with the bars I bought from ebay only says removing the rear covers first, but didn't say how. I wonder I need to slide the removal tool between the cover and the underline rubber from which side: back, outside, or inside of the cover? After I slide the tool in, should I just pull the side up? I am just afraid of damaging the clips inside the cover. A detailed instruction would be really appreciated.
Thanks.
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12-13-2009, 06:18 PM
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#34
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New TN User
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: North Jersey
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Hey... yeah the instructions kinda suck.
What I found that worked was.... while pushing down and inwards on the top inside edge (to kind of lift the outside edge) ... Slide the narrow end of the removal tool under the outside of the cover and pry it outwards (toward you). There are 2 tabs about 1.5 - 2 inches from the front and back of the cover. So you'd want to slide the removal tool in at each those points and pry outwards to release them.
Not the most clear directions but it worked. I didn't realize how to do it till I got the first one off.
Good luck. And don't freak if the tabs break. Just find the piece and glue it back on.. work for the first one I took off 
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12-13-2009, 08:30 PM
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#35
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New TN User
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Thanks for your reply. I really appreciate it. After you lift the outside of the cover, do you need to do the same to the inside of the cover? It seems hard to lift the inside of the cover. I think I already broke the outside tabs and couldn't find where they went :-(.
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12-14-2009, 01:35 PM
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#36
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New TN User
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Location: North Jersey
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I just kinda lifted and wiggled it when I got the outside tabs off and the inside edge released.
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12-15-2009, 12:34 PM
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#37
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New TN User
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New York
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Here's an update to my last post. The crossbars I ordered from the EBay site arrived Monday and I installed them this morning. I saw that the one page installation instructions are a condensed version of the offical Toyota instructions, leaving out the list of safety precautions, needed tools and post installation check. The nylon removal tool was included in the box. Everything went smoothly(almost) except as you probably guessed those delicate little clips. The left side cover came off easily--I was probing with a 3/4" wide thin gauge putty knife to locate the clips before using the tool, but a little pressure from the top and inside was enough for that thin blade to release them. Came right off with no damage. Now for the right side cover. This one needed the nylon tool but again some pressure on the top and just a little prying released the clips. Unfortunately one of the clips broke--leaving half of it still attached to the cover. I used plumber's epoxy putty to repair it, filling the space inside the clip with it as well as around the break. Let it set for 20 minutes(the longest part of the job) and reinstalled the covers and put in the stops. No other problems. Now for my dumb question. Are the stops really necessary?
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12-17-2009, 08:42 AM
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#38
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Official TN Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishnyc22
Hey... yeah the instructions kinda suck.
What I found that worked was.... while pushing down and inwards on the top inside edge (to kind of lift the outside edge) ... Slide the narrow end of the removal tool under the outside of the cover and pry it outwards (toward you). There are 2 tabs about 1.5 - 2 inches from the front and back of the cover. So you'd want to slide the removal tool in at each those points and pry outwards to release them.
Not the most clear directions but it worked. I didn't realize how to do it till I got the first one off.
Good luck. And don't freak if the tabs break. Just find the piece and glue it back on.. work for the first one I took off 
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Thanks for the above tip! That helped me prevent breaking my tabs. I found that using a large flat blade screw driver to hold it opened a little helped. But pressing down on the inside edge while VERY GENTLY prying on the outside is what pops it out
I hit mine with some silver paint. I truly suck at painting but it is ok at 10 feet. Better than black I think on mine.
Below is a picture of the tabs so you can see what you are about to break!
The flea bay ones are indeed metal with hard plastic end pieces.

Last edited by Flame Red : 12-17-2009 at 08:43 AM.
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12-18-2009, 12:39 AM
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#39
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Official TN Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Portland
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Good color match. What brand/color paint is that? Rattle can?
__________________
2009 Highlander Sport. Magnetic gray. Weather tech digital liners. No other mods yet.
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12-18-2009, 06:48 AM
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#40
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Official TN Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deanq4
Good color match. What brand/color paint is that? Rattle can?
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Yep, just a DuraColor generic rattle can from the local auto parts store. Ultra-Silver was the color (truck and SUV generic). They were nice and let me take a bunch of cans outside to match the color up from the caps. It does not look that good up close, It passes the six foot test as I truly suck at painting. But thank you 
Last edited by Flame Red : 12-18-2009 at 06:50 AM.
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