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DIY Modification Articles for the 95-04 Tacoma

120K views 20 replies 19 participants last post by  tommyboytaco 
#1 ·
#5 ·
Free alarm mod for 03 & 04 Tacomas

I have found this on a few other sites and have not seen it here on this one so I thought I would post it up. Good luck and if you mess something up its not on me.



Keyless Entry System Upgrade
By: Randy Hobart If you have a 2003 Tacoma equipped with the factory Keyless Entry system, this simple tip will upgrade it to a fully functional alarm.
(This tip has only been successfully tested on 2003 models - older models may not have the proper wiring configuration)
When Toyota builds their 2003 Tacoma, the Keyless Entry system is installed with all of the basic components required for the Alarm upgrade. In fact, the only component that needs to be added is the glass-breakage sensor. (This is a small dash-mounted component that also includes an LED warning light)
The glass-breakage sensor and LED are not required for the Alarm to function.
Follow this simple step to convert the Keyless Entry into an Alarm...
(In the photos, the lower dash panel has been removed for clarity - the lower dash panel does not need to be removed to access the wiring)
Under the driver-side dash, just to the left of the steering column, locate a single-pin connector and disconnect it. This connector is taped up to the wiring harness.

Leave the connector disconnected and re-tape it back against the wiring to secure it.
THATS IT! A free Alarm upgrade.


A note about the alarm functionality: This modification converts your keyless entry system into an alarm that functions the same as the Toyota factory alarm, with the exception of a glass-breakage sensor. The factory alarm is NOT equipped with a motion sensor or a shock sensor. This means that your alarm will trigger only if:

(1) the doors are forcibly or manually unlocked and opened without the key
(2) power is disconnected (and then re-connected) from the battery
(3) an attempt is made to start the vehicle without the key

Furthermore, if the alarm is triggered, the security system will disable the starter and continually attempt to lock the doors if they are unlocked.

This modification is simply a FREE upgrade. If you are in need of a more sophisticated alarm system, it is recommended that you look into purchasing the actual RS3200 Plus upgrade, or an aftermarket alarm system.
To test the new modified alarm, perform the following:
  1. Roll down the driver side window.
  2. Activate the alarm by
    1. Press the power lock button in the door, then close the door, OR
    2. Close the door, then lock the doors from the outside with the key, OR
    3. Close the door, then press the LOCK button on the transmitter.
  3. Wait 30 Seconds for the alarm to activate.
  4. Reach in through the window to unlock and open the door.
  5. The alarm should trigger.
    To deactivate:
    1. Press the UNLOCK button on the transmitter, OR
    2. Unlock the door with the key, OR
    3. Insert the key into the ignition and turn it to ON.
To go one step further, an aftermarket LED light may be added. (Or, the factory LED can be purchased separately; Toyota part number 08192-3T820)
The lower dash panel will have to be removed to access the proper wiring.
In the first picture above, you will see a wire harness that T's at the base of the steering column and folds back to the left. The loose end of that wire harness is taped up. Pull the end out where you can access the unused 4-pin connector. This connector is where the LED/glass sensor gets plugged in.
There are 4 wires, a black, a white, and 2 colored wires. The 2 colored wires are used for the LED. You can splice into these 2 wires to connect an LED. (The black and white wires are for the sensor)



here is another pic of it I found:


and the links were I found most of this info:
http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7741
http://www.customtacos.com/tech/index.php?article=12
 
#6 ·
how to: factory LED/Glass Break Sensor...

The information above worked out great for me! Except I wanted to take it the one step further as explained. I wanted the Toyota Factory L.E.D. / Glass Break Sensor installed to complete the alarm system. Here is how I did it:

I ordered the part listed above (Toyota part number 08192-3T820) and when it arrived I noticed that its OEM connectors were intact but the wiring was quite short (about 3 inches). I decided that since my particular model came with the Rear Differential Lock Switch and the Clutch Start Cancel Switch that the best location would be where the factory Hazard switch was located. I would have to relocate the Hazard switch to one of the blanks located at the bottom of the dash next to the additional 120v power outlets.

Note: if you do not have the Rear Diff Lock Switch or the Clutch Start Cancel switch, you could place the factory LED there. The stock wiring was long enough although the connectors were all Male/Male therefore, you would have to have splice your own no matter where you decide.


I used the Dash Take Apart guide found here:
http://www.customtacos.com/tech/index.php?article=77
This info was a GREAT guide to knowing what your getting into BEFOR you break it...

once the dash was apart, and the lower kick panel removed from under the steering wheel this is where I will began....


First locate the wire that will control the LED / GB Sensor...
The guide above states where it is but ill just circle it for you here:
(Where the dotted line is – should be about where the wire ends up)


(sorry the picture is so washed out)



Next, un-tape the wire so that it can be relocated to your desired location:


Here, I am running the wire up through the dash...


So that it exits at the Hazard switch’s original location:


Here is the Hazard switch and it’s wiring harness:


Here is both the factory LED/GB sensor switch harness (on left) and the factor Hazard switch harness (on right):


Let’s start with the LED harness since that’s the main goal here. First as the guide above stated, there are 4 wires. 2 that go the Glass Break Sensor (these are white and black). The other 2 are for the LED (the guide stated “colored”, mine were WHITE w/ BLACK stripe and RED, be careful when re-connecting these):


Those factory harnesses both on the car side and on the switch side have to be cut, they both are Male/Male connectors, and won’t mate. I chose quick connects just because, but you can use butt connectors if you like:
Note: If your simply placing this switch in a blank location near the steering wheel (where my diff lock switch or clutch cancel switch is) your pretty much done!


Now on to the Hazard switch, the wiring is only made to go to one location, but with some butt connectors, a striper, a crimper and some extra wire, it can go where you like! I chose speaker wire because it was the right gauge and was actually worked out great:


After cutting the harness off, you’ll need to strip the wiring to accept the butt connectors:


After attaching the butt connectors it should look like this:


You’ll need to thread the wiring down to the bottom of the console, this is pretty easy. I recommend only wiring one wire at a time, there are a total of 8 wires in the hazard switch harness. I went slowly and still made a mistake, I wired to colors backwards. The result was a Hazard switch AND turn signals that didn’t work. After checking the fuses, I went back and looked over my wiring and found the culprit.
I added some electrical tape spiraled around the wiring just to clean things up a bit:


All wired up and ready to be put back together:


Back together, now it needs the hazard switch:


Switch installed (it was a tight fit, but perfect!):


Finished product!





so that it! hope this helps!
 
#10 ·
Tacoma IFS suspension - how to deceide

This post is to help someone that is looking to change their IFS supension system on their Tacoma...NOT FOR SAS'ing.
When I was researching suspension modifications to my Tacoma, it took a long time of searching and reading many of the opinions, and technical info, before ordering my suspension stuff.

The biggest advice that anyone could give to a person looking to do a lift is to ask these simple questions.
1) How much are you willing to spend
2) What type of off roading are you going to do
3) What type of driver are you
4) Is your truck a DD or trailer rig
5) Do you plan to haul stuff and how much
6) Did your wife/gf approve the purchase

Use these links below to read and understand....

Customtaco's off-roading info:
http://www.customtacos.com/tech/index.php?article=137

Park's Offroad Installation and opinions for Toyota's (Coil overs & Drop Brackets)
http://www.parksoffroad.com/tacoma/index.htm

4Crawler.com - Body Lifts
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/BodyLiftKit.shtml

4Crawler.com - Drive train ground clearance trick
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/DrivetrainLift/index.shtml

TTORA - Tacoma Modification Articles
http://www.tacomaterritory.com/wiki/index.php/Tacoma_Modification_Articles

TTORA: Lift - - the question
http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10564&highlight=wheelers+shackle

TTORA: Leaf spring opinion poll
http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum/showthread.php?t=70605

TTORA: Alcan leaf twist concern
http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum/showthread.php?t=86466&highlight=Alcan

TTORA: Cams vs Hoes - mandatory reading
http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1471

Toyota.off-road.com: CO-Shock comparison
http://toyota.off-road.com/toyota/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=305967

Downey-Off Road: Click on to Suspension then the model year of your truck
http://www.downeyoff-road.com/

TTORA: UCA information
http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27076

TTORA: Shackle's anyone?
http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1055&highlight=wheelers+shackle

TTORA: Shackle's anyone part II?
http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10471&highlight=wheelers+shackle

TTORA: Alcan's Orbit-Eyes
http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum/showthread.php?t=75060&highlight=orbit+eyes

Toyota.off-road.com write up on the Orbit-Eyes
http://toyota.off-road.com/toyota/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=186159

TTORA: Dever's Baja Bushings
http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30597&highlight=baja+bushings

Trailslesstraveled.com write up on Dever's Baja Bushings (similar in concept to the Orbit-Eyes)
http://www.trailslesstraveled.com/news.php?id=58

TTORA: Timbren Bump Stops
http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1118685#post1118685

I will state this, I too thought of going the low cost way of AAL, spacers and shocks...
but after really thinking of it and what I want to do with the truck.
I held off on the purchase to save up the money necessary to do my truck right.
I am one of the guys that hate to do things more than once.
If it takes a little inconvenience for a little bit of time to get real capable stuff.
It is worth it for me for that pain of waiting.

That should be it...but to read, learn, listen and if possible, ride with some guys that have different systems to see how they like it and how it handles.
Good Luck!
 
#12 ·
Viper 5901 Quick Reference Install Guide

Quick Reference Install Guide:clap:
Main Harness (H1) 12pin Connector
H2>Red +12vconstant> To empty space on fuse box
H3>Brown (+) To Red Siren wire
H5>Black (-)Chassis Ground To driver side kick panel
H8>Green (-) Door trigger Input To (H1/9)Black/white(-)Dome light To Black/white A Pillar
H11> White Parking Light Output To Green(+) kick panel harness.(Note:plug 10amp
fuse inside Module box (+) Polarity

H2 Harness, 18pin Connector
H2/8> Brown/black Horn output To Green/Red Steering Column
H2/15> Grey (-) Hood Pin Input
H2/17> Brown (+) Brake shutdown Input To green/white Brake Pedal Switch
H2/18> Black/white(-) Neutral Safety Input To Chassis Ground driver side kick panel

Door Lock,3 Pin Connector
1>Blue (-)Unlock Output To Violet from front of fuse box harness
2>Green (-)Lock Output To Gray from front of fuse box harness

Remote Start, (H3)10 Pin Connector
H3/1>Pink(+)Ignition 1 To Black/yellow Steering column connector
H3/2>Red/White flex relay input To White(+)12v constant Steering column
H3/3>Orange (+) ACC Output To Blue/Red Steering column
H3/4>Violet (+) Car side(starter kill) To Black Steering column(Cut Black Wire and solder to Violet wire)
H3/5>Green (+) starter switch side(starter Kill) To Black steering column(Solder Green
wire to Black other end.
H3/6>Red Ignition 1 Input To White(+)12v constant Steering column
H3/7>Pink/White Flex relay Output To Black/Red steering column
H3/8>Pink/Black To N/A (not connected)
H3/9>Red/Black ACC/Starter Input To White(+)12v constant Steering column
Note: Solder all Connections, Wires not listed because not connected.
Special Thanks To: Strike3 and RoadRage
 
#14 ·
Under hood lighting

A LONG time ago I posted and asked if anyone had done any underhood lighting or bed lighting. No one had and I got busy with other projects and didn't worry about it. Recently I picked up a pair of white led "strip lights that are 12" long each. They come in a set of 2 from AutoZone Part Number: 77423B.. They have sticky foam backing and are set up to be attached to a switch circuit. I bought a push on/push off switch from Radio Shack but then found a similar switch that mounted from the back in my old parts in the garage.

I was going to mount these strips above the cab window for lighting up the bed at night but decided that I would pick up a second set for that and mount this one under the hood in case I needed to work on a problem under the hood after dark. I know that a flashlight will work fine if you have a 3rd hand to hold it while you work but sometimes you need both hands AND need to see what you are doing. Being LED they are very low power drain and yet give a nice spread of light that is not glaring in your eyes and yet lets you see everywhere in the engine compartment easily. Of course you want to see some pics so I took a couple so you could see how it worked out. I mounted the light strips on the sides where they were out of the way and would shone from the two sides of the open hood. I ran the wiring through the re-enforcement bulges and through holes that were already there. The switch I put in the front and it is in front of the radiator crossbar so it is not exposed to the heat of the engine. For wiring i added one of the accessory fuse plug ins that allows you to piggy-back a second circuit onto an existing fuse socket.

Maybe this will give some of you some ideas and later I will go ahead and add two more strips above the back cab window for bed lighting.

I also added the jumper on the Accessories relay in the fuse box so that I could charge my cell phone or camcorder battery without the engine running if needed.

Swiss









 
#15 ·
Looks good. This is one of those Mods that isn't directly related to 1st or 2nd gen. A lot of people have added bed, backup, or under hood lights of various types to the 2nd gens.
 
#16 ·
Yea, I did a quick search and didn't find anything under 1st Gen and didn't want to search every topic possible. So I figured that I would post it under 1st Gen. It was tricky getting the switch in from the back side I used a thin strip of cord tied around the thread area of the switch and managed to pull it through to the hole and then just screwed the locking nut on. If I had gone with the Radio Shack switch I would have just added a dab of silicone and pushed it into the hole from the outside since the threads were on the back side of the switch.
I used a 3' piece of thin welding rod to pull the wires through the hood panels.

Swiss
 
#20 ·
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