how to: factory LED/Glass Break Sensor...
The information above worked out great for me! Except I wanted to take it the one step further as explained. I wanted the Toyota Factory L.E.D. / Glass Break Sensor installed to complete the alarm system. Here is how I did it:
I ordered the part listed above (Toyota part number 08192-3T820) and when it arrived I noticed that its OEM connectors were intact but the wiring was quite short (about 3 inches). I decided that since my particular model came with the Rear Differential Lock Switch and the Clutch Start Cancel Switch that the best location would be where the factory Hazard switch was located. I would have to relocate the Hazard switch to one of the blanks located at the bottom of the dash next to the additional 120v power outlets.
Note: if you do not have the Rear Diff Lock Switch or the Clutch Start Cancel switch, you could place the factory LED there. The stock wiring was long enough although the connectors were all Male/Male therefore, you would have to have splice your own no matter where you decide.
I used the Dash Take Apart guide found here:
http://www.customtacos.com/tech/index.php?article=77
This info was a GREAT guide to knowing what your getting into BEFOR you break it...
once the dash was apart, and the lower kick panel removed from under the steering wheel this is where I will began....
First locate the wire that will control the LED / GB Sensor...
The guide above states where it is but ill just circle it for you here:
(Where the dotted line is – should be about where the wire ends up)
(sorry the picture is so washed out)
Next, un-tape the wire so that it can be relocated to your desired location:
Here, I am running the wire up through the dash...
So that it exits at the Hazard switch’s original location:
Here is the Hazard switch and it’s wiring harness:
Here is both the factory LED/GB sensor switch harness (on left) and the factor Hazard switch harness (on right):
Let’s start with the LED harness since that’s the main goal here. First as the guide above stated, there are 4 wires. 2 that go the Glass Break Sensor (these are white and black). The other 2 are for the LED (the guide stated “colored”, mine were WHITE w/ BLACK stripe and RED, be careful when re-connecting these):
Those factory harnesses both on the car side and on the switch side have to be cut, they both are Male/Male connectors, and won’t mate. I chose quick connects just because, but you can use butt connectors if you like:
Note: If your simply placing this switch in a blank location near the steering wheel (where my diff lock switch or clutch cancel switch is) your pretty much done!
Now on to the Hazard switch, the wiring is only made to go to one location, but with some butt connectors, a striper, a crimper and some extra wire, it can go where you like! I chose speaker wire because it was the right gauge and was actually worked out great:
After cutting the harness off, you’ll need to strip the wiring to accept the butt connectors:
After attaching the butt connectors it should look like this:
You’ll need to thread the wiring down to the bottom of the console, this is pretty easy. I recommend only wiring one wire at a time, there are a total of 8 wires in the hazard switch harness. I went slowly and still made a mistake, I wired to colors backwards. The result was a Hazard switch AND turn signals that didn’t work. After checking the fuses, I went back and looked over my wiring and found the culprit.
I added some electrical tape spiraled around the wiring just to clean things up a bit:
All wired up and ready to be put back together:
Back together, now it needs the hazard switch:
Switch installed (it was a tight fit, but perfect!):
Finished product!
so that it! hope this helps!