5s-fe turbo install list

[R94CamryT]

NOTE: I am in no way respnsible for your efforts in the following article..this is a refernce guide only! USE AT YOUR OWN RISK
This is from the 3sgte forum written by billwot..it is great basic turbo/boost control info:

turbo basics and boost control
THE TURBOCHARGER
The turbocharger is a centrifugal compressor driven by the otherwise-wasted energy in the exhaust stream. It is a 2 chambered housing with a shaft through the center extending into both chambers. A turbine wheel is mounted on one end of the shaft and is in the exhaust stream, and an impeller wheel is mounted on the other end. That is the compressor end, and it is connected to tubing that goes to the intercooler, and then to the throttle body. A turbocharger is really a very simple device, and as long is it regularly fed clean , high quality oil from the engine lube system, and allowed to cool down before engine shutdown, will last nearly as long the engine itself.


THE WASTEGATE
There are two alternate paths for the exhaust flow at the turbo. One is across the turbine, and the other is out the wastegate, allowing it to bypass the turbo. Since more energy at the turbo means more air to the engine, which means more energy to the turbo, which in turn means more air to the engine, which means...well, I think you get the point. The wastegate is necessary to limit the airflow output from the turbo.
The wastegate isn't simply open or closed; it modulates to maintain very precise control over the turbo's speed and output.

SOME BASIC PHYSICS
Compressors are pumps, and pumps create flow. When the turbo creates more airflow than the engine is consuming, then the air becomes pressurized. So boost pressure will rise and fall as the turbo output increases and decreases. Thats why the wastegte controls the speed and airflow of the turbo. And pressure and flow are directly related. That means you can not get "more flow at the same pressure..."

THE WASTEGATE ACUTATOR
The wastegate actuator is simply a can with a rubber diaphragm on one end, and 2 ports with hose fittings on the front end. Looking into the engine compartment form the driver's side, it can easily be seen just to the right of the turbo compressor inlet. The hose on the left is connected to the turbo, and the hose on the right is connected to the T/VSV. (more on that later) There is a spring that holds the diaphragm in place that has a yeild value of about 7 psi.. As pressure builds in the turbo, air begins to fill the actuator and pushes against the diaphragm. When the pressure exceeds the spring value, ~ 7 psi, the actuator moves out, pushing a rod, and opening the wastegate.

The normal range of max boost ranges from 7.1 to 11.8 psi, according to the Factory Repair Manual (BGB). Low boost problems are almost always a result of some problem in the boost control system and rarely with the turbo itself..

BOOST PRESSURE SENSOR AND FUEL-CUT
The boost pressure sensor is simply a pressure transducer that monitors manifold pressure and reports it to the ECU as a voltage value. If the voltage exceeds about 4.4 volts (~12 psi on '91, 92' and early 93's, ~16 psi on late 93's and up) the ECU initiates the fuel-cut sequence. It de-energizes the T/VSV to lower boost, retards ignition timing, and restricts fuel delivery by limiting the injector cycle. The "check-engine" light will come on for about 20 seconds, and a code 34 will be stored in the diagnostic memory. You will be in "limp mode" and unable to boost again until you shut off the engine and restart it. No other reset is required to return to normal operation. You do not have to pull any fuses or disconnect the battery (Internet legend!)

For a complete schematic diagram of the turbo and boost control system, go here:

http://member.newsguy.com/~gtfour/technicl.htm#Turbo
Click on "Boost Control"

BOOST CONTROLLERS
Since the rate and amount of airflow to the wastegate actuator control's its operation, we can increase the boost by either restricting the airflow into the actuator chamber, or by increasing the bleed rate of the air escaping the actuator. Boost controllers range from simple orfice plugs inserted into the hose connecting the turbo the the actuator, to complex multi-valve electronically operated devices, but again, the all do the same thing: they manipulate the amount of air (pressure) in the actuator.

FUEL-CUT DEFEAT SYSTEMS
Since the FC response is programmed in at ~ 12 psi*, you must somehow eliminate it or alter it to boost above ~12 psi. Fuel-cut is initiated when there is a 4.4 volt signal to the ECU from the sensor, so ALL fuel cut defeat (FCD) system either prevent that from happening, or delay it . Some methods simply eliminate FC completely by preventing any thing over 4.3 volts from ever reaching the ECU. This includes the Greddy BCC, the Zener diode, disconnecting the hose, etc. The HKS FCD is an adjustable FCD that has one setting that raises fuel cut to ~17 psi without eliminating it.
Here is some further information about the HKS FCD installed on the MR2:

http://www.mr2.com/ARTICLE/HKSFCDat.html

Or I have designed a simple fully adjustable FCD that allows you to set FC at any value you want, from stock up to the system max of ~ 17.5. It will cost about $8 for parts and should take less than an hour to build and install. No, I won't build you one.

Here is a discussion and instructions for the $8 BlackBox FCD:

http://toymr2.tripod.com/fcd.html

Hope this is helpful!!

bill


from there i will ad my opinions on the BASIC 5sfe turbo system,including what i would reccomend as MUST need items...

First:
BASIC RELIABLE TURBO SETUP INCLUDES

Turbo(ct26 or other)
Manifold(factory 3s)
Intercooler(factory 3s)
Piping(custom made, the turbo-intercooler from the 3s works fine)
Injectors(MKlV Supra NA) PART # 23250-70080
2bar MAP SENSOR(factory 3s) Part # 84420-17030
Downpipe Elbow/cat assembly(factory 3s)
Blow Off Valve(factory 3s if using the stock piping, otherwise after market)
Boost Contoller
Boost Guage
Exhaust work to match to DP/Cat assembly
Oil, Water/Coolant lines to and from turbo(3s if using ct26/mani)
3SGTE Oil pan(makes it alot easier)
Misc. Rubber/Silicon hose for turbo fiitings
Air/Fuel Ratio Guage

Options
Apexi S-Afc or other similar device for more precise Air/Fuel tuning
Turbo Timer for controlled shut down of car
Of Course Engine Internals,Pistons,Rods.
Metal head gasket
Aftermarket Clutch..THIS SHOULD BE A MUST!
Exhaust temp gauge and probe for accurate readings off EG temps


The Turbo:

Choose your turbo by reaserching.reading info for specific turbos that will accomodate your specific needs.

For the most easy "bolt on" system using the ct-26 from a turbo mmodel mr2 is by far the best way to go.

By using the above the factory turbo manifold,turbo,downpipe/car assembly,turbo to intercooler pipe/hose,intercooler, and map sensor..(all from a 91-93 turbo mr2) Is a direct bolt on/in procedure.

For the fuel system the MKlV Supra NA 315cc(360 at our fuel pressure) Are a direct drop in for our stock injectors with no need to re-wire/splice or fabricate ANYTHING..Unbolt the fuel rail take out the stock,drop in the supra,bolt in up and drive it..

I would reccomend going witht the stock mr2 MAP Sensor(called the turbo pressure sensor in the turbo car) This is a "2bar" sensor and will read higher voltages in smaller increments to properly adjust the ECU to run the larger injector.This sensor will also allow up to 12psi of boost before have to do any type of Fuel Cut Defenser Modifications.

Manifold:
These can be picked up here in our for sale forum and on other sales related sites such as www.mr2.xcars.com
for @75$...This WILL bolt directly on the 5sfe head with out modification other than bending the coolant lines from the water pump down aprox. 1/2in.
This will also allow you to use the aftermarket t3/t4 adaptor flanges for the 3sgte..if you decide to run a turbo of this type.

Intercooler:
For basic(7-12psi) turbo 5s aps the factory 3sgte intercooler will suit your needs extremely well. This is also a direct bolt in part,meaning that any aftermarkt SIDEMOUNT intercooler will bolt in also. (ex. Greddy)
A good fan should be used on the IC for proper air circulation factory fans work well but SPAL,PermaCool, and others offer HI-PO fans that will work better.
Wiring of the fan is your choice from tapping into an ignition controlled circut to wiring a toggle switch to activate it.
This can be found in the same places as mentioned above for @ 50$

Intercooler piping:
I personally think using the factory 3s turbo to interrcooler pipe is the best route becase of the factory blow off valve mount wich allows use of the factory BOV or any aftermarket Kit made for the 3sgte.
The intercooler to throttle body will have to be custom made. Use 2-2 1/4 in piping here. It will depend on target boost on wich size to use.
To small and the turbo works overly hard to move the air
To large and You have the greater risk of pressure drop. This will make tuning hell.

Oil/Water lines:

The factory 3s are great if using the ct26 setup..The only mod will be to either drill/tap the block for the oil feed or to cut the tubing to accomidate a braided hose to supply oil tapped into the oil pressure sensor port on the 5s head.Pay carefull attention to routing of the feed/return lines do the extreme heat the turbo.manifold produce.

Downpie/Cat assembly:
Also a factory 3s piece here. Bolts on with no oil filter clearence problems and eases install. An aftermarket DP will remove the primary cat and increase performance.There are may companys the have these availible.

3SGTE Oil Pan:

This is by far the best way to handle the return oil supply. The part is from Toyota so they know where the return hole need to be.It will also allow the use of the factory oil lines with no mods to them.

Blow Off Valve:

This device stops the back surge of unused boost in the piping from reaching the turbo.(insert the PSSSSSt sound here)
The stock BOV is by far the best.easiest to use because there is no setup and it holds under boost so you never have to worry of a BOV leaking off boost pressure and the rich shitty running of an untuned aftermarket BOV

Boost Gauge:

Self Explanitory....

Boost Controller:

This allows the fine tuning of actual boost the motor will see.
Many companys offer them from basic spring/ball types to fancy electronic ones..

Air/Fuel Gauge:

This is a tought one because of the unknown reliability of the a/f readings..this is NOT something to use to tune the fuel from,More or less a saftey feature.

Misc. houses..
Another self explained part list..

Other Options:
Read list obove.


INSTALLING YOUR TURBO KIT:
REMOVE:
the Factory exhaust manifold
There are 6 14mm nuts on the head that hold the manifold to it. There are 3 14mm nuts on the bottom side of the manifold that attach to the B-Pipe. There are 2 14mm bolts that attach to the block directly under the oil filter(this is the support brakect)
Disconect the O2 sensor connecter(follow the wire from the o2 sensor to the gray colored connector)

With this out of the engine bay now move on to the air intake assemnly. (im going to assume most ahve some type of aftermarket intake and know how to take it out)

Remove the throttle cable braket from the intake maniflod by removed the 2 10mm bolts and set it out of the way.

Remove the spark plug wires from the plugs/holes and set them to the side(if you remove them from the cap be sure to get them back on the correct location)

Now there are 4 30mm nuts that hold the valve cover in place. A large socket(30mm or 1 1/8in) work best but channel locs or a large adjustable wrench works too.Under the nuts are 4 cone shaped seals..a screwdriver may be needed to pop them out.
Lightly tap the valve cover with a rubber mallet to break the seal to the head and remove it(clean it very well inside and out before re-installing later)

Now with all of this out of the way you can acces the fuel rail on the back side of the head. There are 2 12mm bolts that hold this in place. Remove the gas cap to bleed any pressure in the tank and loosen these bolts.Dont take em all the way out yet. See the injectors..take the connectore off of them and move then out of the way as best you can. now remove the bolts and pull the rail up slightly..The pins/spacers that hold the rail off the head may fall out so look for them to stay in place. Gently remove the injectors by pulling them out of the head or fuel rail(wherever they stayed while pulling the rail) Look on the bottom of the injectors..there should be rubber gromments on them that seal them into the head,if they arent on the injector,remove them from the head. Take your new injectors(23250-70080) and install them in the opisite order of removal.. Make sure all the injectors have the correct o-rings attached to them.(3per/injector)When installing the rail be sure to wiggle the injectors back and forth while tightening the bolts back to 9ft-lbs of TQ..this will insure that they are cock-eyed in there seats. Also it is a good idea to rub fresh gasoline on all the oring/seals before installing them so they dont stick to the metal and tear.

You can now put the valve cover back on in the reverse order of removal.
Reinstall the Throttle cable bracket.

Now before re-installing the plug wires, remove your spark plugs and replace them with new ones. GAP THEM .030...THIS IS A MUST!!!! The stock gap is .043 and it WILL blow out at exactly 5psi of boost.
Tourque the plugs to 12ft-lbs and reinstall the plug wires

<~~~TAKE A SMOKE BREAK~~~~~>(away from the puddle of fuel that drained out!)

Now is a good time to drain the oil from the car..If you jack the car up to pull the drain plug, set it back down level as to get as much of the oil out as possible.Throw away the old oil filter but dont install the new one yet.

My car does not have A/C so im not sure if it will be in the way of installing the intercooler..
On the PASS. side of the car look onto the rear subframe..there should be 2 12mm bolts installed there holding nothing in..THESE are the IC bolts. remove them and posistion the IC in the side vent area and blot it in place threw these 2 holes/bolts.
Next install the fan onto the IC using the bolts that where probobly in it when you took the fan off.. Cut the wires off the fan and use a cordless drill battery to determine the positive and negitve to make the fan pull air into the engine bay threw the IC.On the - install a eye loop connector and ground it to some place on the chassis of the car.
As for the power this is up to you to decide if you want it on a switch or of an ignition circut.

By this time all the oil should be drained from the car..Jack it up as high as you feel comfortable that you can work under it and still have acces threw the top side.Support it with jack stands pleez...

See the oil pan? Take it off with a 10mm socket on all of those 15+ bolts(2 are nuts)The xhaust should flex enuff to get the pan out. U might have to use a putty knife to get the seal to break loose arounfd the pan/block. The oil pick up tube sets down in the windage try in the pan so you will have to manuvere the pan around and down from it.
Clean the block very well with putty knife and get any excess oil/grease away from the sealing surface.
Assuming your new pan(3sgte oil pan) is already cleaned up apply a silcone sealer to the mating surface..Be sure to put the sealler in the groove on the pan and on the timing belt side be sure to put the sealer where it will actually contact the block(look at old pan for reference) Install the pan the same way you took it out and use the 2 10mm nuts to hold it up while you fight with the rest of the bolts..

TO BE CONTINUED....

[R94CamryT]

Now the the oil pan is installed return from under the car to your pile of parts.

Turbo/manifold assembly

Take the stock 3s manifold and your turbo and blot them together using a the 4 14mm nuts to hold it to the studs. Use the needed gaskets here.
Since i personally have a custom downpipe i cant tell you if the stock elbow/cat will fit in threw the top so iwill explain this step assuming it doesnt.
If you plan on using the coolant lines to the turbo you will need to tap into the the Throttle body heating lines. Look under the throttle body for the 2 3/8in coolant lines and use bras Ts here with hose clamps..Run the lines to the area that the turbo sits keeping them away from any high heat items.
Back to the turbo..Im assuming that you are youing the factory ct26 coolant lines from the turbo. Use the correct gasket here and bolt the lines to the turbo with the 2 12mm nuts needed.
Do the same for the oil supply/drain line(gasket,2 12mm nuts)
You will need to cut the smaller diameter tube on the oil line(supply) below the large banjo type fitting that the 3sgte uses for oil supply. I used a 3/8in oil cooler line here to supply the turbo with oil..I would reccomend getting a braided stell line to use in its place though.Back at the car look on the drivers side of the head in the front. There is a round gray colored metal sensor with one wire and a rubber cover..un hook this wire and remove the sensor using a pair of channel locs.
Take this sensor to the auto parts store and get the following items.
1 T fitting with a male end the same thread as the sensor.
the other 2 holes in the T dont matter, get an adaptor that will place the oil pressure sending unit in one of these holes, the other hole (if you are use the oil line as i did) you will need a 3/8 barb.
Take the assembly home and teflon tape all the fitings threads and install it in to the head.

Take your assembled turbo/manifold assembly ad place it into the car. Us ethe 6 14mm nuts you removed from the stock manifold to reattach the turbo assm. If the coolant lines from the water pump hit the wasgate actuater, remove the 12mm nut that brces then to the head(directly bellow the oil pressure port) and bend them down and towards the block approx. 1/2-3/4 in. It should now clear fine.
Hook up the oil supply line but leave the return line off the oil pan for now.

Back under the car place the down pipe elbow/cat assemlbt on the turbo and sucure it with the correct gasket and the 3 nuts to the studs off the turbo and the 3 bolts(all 14mm)

Install the Lower intercooler piping(from turbo to IC)
I am going to assume you have used the factory 3s unit here so u will be using the stock blow off valve also.
Make sure the BOV has the check valve that is needed install between the top side port and lower side port.(a regullar check valve will not work here) From there a vacuum line need ran to the intake manifold. There are 3 un used vacuum poets on the back side of the manifold, pick one.

Next locate the diagnostic box on the Pass. side rear of the engine compartment. See the black 3 wrie sensor that mounts to the came bracket..remove it. In it places install the turbo 2bar MAP sensor(part# 84420-17030). This is a direct rplacement so no wireing mods are needed.
Reinstall the vacuum line to the bottom of the sensor.

Now you can put the Upper IC pipe in place(You will need a custom built unit here)

Reinstall your oil filter(new) and fresh oil..dont worry it wont come out the hole for the turbo drain.

Assuming you have already installed your Boost gauge in the cabin along with any other monitering gauges you like, now is time to tap into the pressure side of the wasgate actuator for the gauge.
The actuator has 2 ports on it..one should have a line coming from the compresser housing of the turbo to it the other needs blocked off(it was used for the VSV on the turbo model)
Remove the compressor side vacuum lind and T it off..conect the gauges line to the T and reinstall the line.

The os sensor from your stock manifold is removed with a deepwell 12.. socket, transfer the gasket and senor to the turbo elbow. The wire will need extended to reach back to the conector,DO NOT CUT THE O2 SENSOR WIRE! it is a shielded wire..instead cut the wire back on the harness where the 2 conectors meet. Extend the wire by aprox. 8-10 inches. Use solder and shrink wrap for the best connection. Now plug the o2 conectoers back up.

Locate the coil wire going to the cap and remove it ..
Double check all things are tight,noting is in the way,nothing will suck into the turbo..Just pay close attention to thing..Crank the car over for 1-2 minutes.. get out and see if oil has dripped from the turbo drain line. If not keep cranking untill it does.
Once you have oiled the turbo you can install the rubber elbow from the drain tube to the oil pan and reinstall the coil wire...

Get in and start it.

let it idle till it comes up to operating temps and check everything for leaks, loose bolts, etc.

Get out your timing light and with the jumpers in the correct ports set the timing to 8deg..(10 is stock)

go make a few low boost test drives and then recheck everything.
Make sure the BOV is working correctly and all other things seem to be in the right order..

Park the car.

Custom fab up an air intake with filter from the turbo to the side vent..PVC pipe from home depot works well. Now drive the car to the nearest exhasust shop and have them mate the downpipe/cat to your exhaust..

After that..go smoke some rustangs, camaros, honduhs..what ever..enjoy your new beast

[R94CamryT]

After all the work i have put in to this..I have found one more thing that you will need to do.

Install a crankcase breather or oil catch can..
Look at your valve cover..see the tube coming out the side and to the throttle body? You need to plus the tube off on the trottle body side and install a oil catch can or breather filter here..

NOTE: this is only on the 91-2 models..the 93+ are equiped with a PVC Valve wich will not require this step.

Happy boosting.

Also,

PLEASE,PLEASE make sure that the engine is in top mechanicly order..If your compression test nets low numbers,dont turbo before-reringing the motor or if your burning alot of oil,dont turbo before new valve seals..Common sense here guys!

Cost will flucuate depending on how well you shop around and how much of the labor you do your self.. For the basic needed parts look at @ 1200.

[R94CamryT]

So, if you are still considering this project, sit down and add up the costs of all the parts already listed in the sticky, and to that price, add the black boxes for A/F and timing control (or for a standalone), + the cost of gauges (at least boost and EGT, and probably oil pressure), + the cost of dyno tuning (unless you have your own WB02 sensor), + the potential cost of replacing your clutch once you burn up the stocker. THEN, you will have a much better idea of how much money you need to spend, and how much research you need to do (to properly tune the setup, in addition to the basic hardware install). All the items I listed in this paragraph are MANDATORY IMO for a successful turbo 5sfe. If you look into High Quality kits for other NA cars (civics, Focus, 240sx, etc) out there, you will see that they all include somekind of devices for A/F and timing tunability. The 5sfe is no different.

[smokey8890]

WOW thanx for all the info. imma print this out and read it when im sitting on the shitter.

[Deep]

Good info, its much like the one I drew up... only better.

[EKam]

Excellent post.

Moved to HARDCORE section.

[R94CamryT]

no prob. if u guys got any questions feel free to ask.

[arcasmachineracing]

thanks for the extremly "informative" post... im gonna read it on the shitter as well!!!

[R94CamryT]

No prob, as far as this project goes it will also work on any camry with a 5s-fe-I4. the biggest diff for camry owners is the piping and the intercooler. you will have to get most pipies custom made. any muffler shop should do it for ya. just be shure they use the right type of hoses and tubes because of the temp that u ar gonna face. or u can always do the way i always tell people to do buy the pipes and make em ure self. http://www.turbohoses.com/ they supp...appy boosting!

[R94CamryT]

Also if u have the automatic transmission there is a way u can upgrade. http://www.levelten.com here u can b... a sec faster.

[R94CamryT]

sorry the web site for the tranny upgrade is [http://www.levelten.com]
and the web site for the hoses is [www.turbohoses.com][/url]

[smokey8890]

so this setup is like wraith hybrid 5s-gte project. only diffrence is your just the stock head. do you know any good sites that sells 3s-gte parts like intercooler, manifold, map sensor etc?

[R94CamryT]

well its basically the same way but your runing of of a 5s-fe wich after the turbo and other stuff is pit on is usually called the 5s-fte. the best place to get the parts would probly be at a junkyard near your area or u can go to http://www.maztoy.com/ they got some ggod parts. but if u prefer giong with the 3s-gte conversion thats giong to be about 4K$ installation and everything as opose to 1200$.

[R94CamryT]

Also here is a way to instead of giong out and buying a black box; to biuld one for about 8$. go here:http://toymr2.tripod.com/fcd.html this will become very usfull once u get a boost controller and start adjusting boost levels