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Locker Mod- An Alternative

112K views 110 replies 30 participants last post by  Goobersbro  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
We can call this this DBBD1- wire mod.
It is just that, an alternative. I liked the relay idea that a lot of you have done but I was not comfortable with a few things, mostly cutting that many wires, but more importantly, you could engage it at any time. I am not the only one to drive my truck, wifey does on rare occaisions, as will friends in need. I did not want them looking at the locker switch and thinking "oh, what does this do" and engaging the locker at 60mph! With this mod, you engage my switch (fools the ecu), then hit the stock locker switch when you want/need it. My way is easier, only one wire to hookup to a switch then from the switch to ground. What we are doing is fooling the 4wd ecu into thinking that the truck is in 4low. We are going to just short across the 4low switch that is on the transfer case. When your truck is in 4low, it shorts this wire to ground anyways. We will just do this with our internal switch. The only downside to this is that if you start the truck with the switch "on," (truck thinking that you are in 4low), the green 4wd light on your dash starts blinking. If you flip the swtich after you start it up, all is fine. I can live with that. It will still lock up though, even with the greenie blinking. It disables ABS (on my truck) and I assume VSC on those of you that have it. All other functions are the same and it works just the same as the relay version of this mod, locks up and will accept whatever speed you want to go. Now the pic's.


Here is a write-up on removing the glove box (sorry for the hijack of the pic's)
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=170576


This is the connector we are looking for. It is to the right and up, behind your glove box. You can see it in 6th and 8th pic's down. It is the top connector on the white plastic box of connectors.
Image



I just "tinned" the wire (put solder on it, gave it some rigidity) and stuck it in next to the top left wire. It is yellow w/black stripe. Just squeezed it in there and put a couple of zip ties on all on all of the wires to keep it from slipping back out. It stays in there nice and good. I then ran that wire over to my switch. (Yes, there are actually 2 wires there. I had a 4-conductor cable that I used, so I ran 2 to the switch from there and 2 to the ground from the switch)
Image




Then ran the wire from the switch to the ground, same as shown in the TPMS mod referred to above.
Image


Now to go out and play. Remember just to flip the switch after the truck is "on" and you are good to go. Then all you need to do is hit the locker switch when you want to lock up.
 
#2 ·
Neat!

If I understand correctly, your new switch will only fool the ECU into thinking the truck is in 4low. The locker will still have to be engaged by the OEM switch?

This suits me fine, as I didn't like the lack of a safe guard on the relay version. I have often wiped down the dash of my truck and later noticed the red blinking locker light after driving a couple of miles.
 
#5 · (Edited)
It's been a couple years since I did the locker mod on my truck, so maybe the wiring has changed a little. Are you sure the locker works, and the light isn't just coming on? Can you draw up a schematic so I can wrap my mind around what you did? Where does the yellow wire with the black stripe go to? Transfer case or ADD? I'm going to have to pull up some schematics and check it out.

EDIT: OK so you just grounded the transfer case indicator switch. Yeah let us know if it really works and the lights aren't just coming on. If this does work, you get a cookie.
 
#14 ·
It's been a couple years since I did the locker mod on my truck, so maybe the wiring has changed a little. Are you sure the locker works, and the light isn't just coming on? Can you draw up a schematic so I can wrap my mind around what you did? Where does the yellow wire with the black stripe go to? Transfer case or ADD? I'm going to have to pull up some schematics and check it out.

EDIT: OK so you just grounded the transfer case indicator switch. Yeah let us know if it really works and the lights aren't just coming on. If this does work, you get a cookie.
Yes, this really works, tested and all. Honest!

A question I have is if the ECU thinks you are in 4L, what happens when you really do want to go into 4L?
Nothing different, only this time it will actually engage the gears too.

So if I already had the original locker mod done, this new switch would be an added safety precaution correct? If it would work like that it would be great.

Yes, you could just add a switch inline with your power wire to your relay as a safety.
 
#8 ·
The ABS only turns off when the locker is engaged. With the truck thinking it's in 4-lo, TRAC and VSC might be off... Not sure about ABS. I'm thinking ABS would still be on, but I don't have VSC or TRAC on mine to check.

You could always use a DPDT switch and use the second set of poles to ground out the blue/yellow striped wire for the ABS/VSC/TRAC shutoff option to cut down the number of switches you need to mount.
 
#9 · (Edited)
Yea, you gotta make sure that it's just not the locker light coming on.I did Tacogrande's ATRAC mod, and I accidentally used the wrong side of the cut wire, and all it did was turn the locker light on and off!The locker wasn't engaging, but the light was showing that it was, and that's not suppose to happen with the ATRAC mod.I finally re-read the instructions and saw I was using the wrong side of the cut wire.I switched to to the other end of the cut wire, and the ATRAC mod worked exactly the way it was suppose to.VSC, TRAC, ABS lights come on instead, since it thinks the locker is engaged, when it really isn't, but then the locker light will come on when the locker is locked.So like Tacogrande is saying, make sure that you aren't just switching the locker light on and off.
 
#13 · (Edited)
I've been looking at all the prints and diagrams I could find on this, and it appears that all "dbbd1" is doing is manually controlling the indicator switch, which lets the ECU know when you are in 4LO. He installed his own bypass switch.

The ECU will do everything else.

I can't be positive what else is going on. Because I can't find information on the ECU itself.

The only way to confirm what is going on? Is to run a few tests.

But this mod does appear to be a simple answer to the Diff Lock.

I'm hoping that"dbbd1" can chime in and give us more info.

Maybe he's out testing as we speak!:thumbup::D:clap::clap::clap:
 
#17 ·
Sorry, pizza got delivered, yum.

The wire that we are messing with is the yellow w/ black stripe coming from the transfer indicator switch on the transfer case itself. We are tapping into it at PA22, you could also use the next wire down in the pictures (it is yellow w/ black stripe too) because it is PA21. We are just shorting it to ground, fooling the ECU into thinking that the transfer is in 4low. When you actually flip the 4wd switch on the dash into 4low, it completes other circuits (within the transfer) and then actually engages the gears.


Image
 
#18 ·
I tried messing around with the #22 wire going to the ecu and grounding it before startup to see if it would stop the green 4wd from flashing if I had my mod switch engaged while starting, no luck. But I feel that is something that I can live with, just do not turn it on until after you start the truck, no big deal.
 
#21 ·
This the 2nd time I'm making you famous!:lol::lol::lol:

Good job!:thumbup::thumbup:
And I appreciate that. I just want everyone to know though, this is an alternative. There will some that feel that this mod is not for them and want to go the relay route (if at all). This forum should be a place to toss out ideas and thoughts and get constructive feed-back, not bashing. We all have different ways of looking at things and my feeling about TN is to share those, take what we can use and leave the rest for others to discern if they want to use.
 
#24 · (Edited)
Yes, I know. The ones we want are in the top plug connector, top left PA22 (or 2nd down from top left, PA21). If you look at the wiring diagrams in the book and look for the junction block layout (which is what that white block is), it looks like the connector we want should be on the bottom. This threw me for a bit, until I realized that: a) Toyota screwed up with the diagram, or b) my truck is meant to drive on it's top. It really is the top connector that we are looking for. And for those of you that want to know where I put my switch, well, now that I have 2 there, one for the beep mod http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=221968
and now one for the 4low, I moved the beep mod switch up and mounted them both to that funky (and useless) piece of plastic that forms the "roof" to our glove box. It can be removed by taking out the one bolt in the middle where the box latches (have fun!) and then just popping out the right and left sides from their clips.


Red is for the beep mod, green (it really is green) is for the 4low. Off is to the left and on is to the right.
Image
 
#28 ·
Damn dude I feel like a dumbass now. Good job! Here's your cookie.
Don't feel too bad. :lol: I like the way you did it, and I'd rather not have a second switch to engage my locker. I use it more often than 4wd since it engages faster so putting a switch in the glove box would defeat the whole purpose. And no offense, but I'm not leaning over there while I'm trying to drive. :disappoin

I'd rather just push the stock button, lock up, get where I need to go, and unlock. So I still appreciate the relay! :whatwhat:
 
#32 ·
Well, I wish I knew. For some reason, with it switched (grounded) before you start, the green "4wd" light blinks, like it is trying to engage. It will remain blinking ad infinitum. I think it may have something to do with an error code, I will check someday when I can afford to get a Scangauge (anyone selling one cheap?). Oddly though, it will still lock up with the green 4wd light blinking.
 
#35 ·
When you put the transfer case in 4 low it grounds out that particular lead then the system allows the locker to be engaged. The reason for that is so you don't drive over the factory recomended speed or in 2 high. When you ground the wire all your doing is fooling the system into thinking the transfer case is in 4 low so it will allow the locker to engage. You can either directly ground the wire and only need to push the button as you do now or use a switch (great idea). I have done this mod on my last three tacomas with no ill effects.
 
#36 ·
Please help

I really want to do this mod, I can't figure out, what was done and how from the previouse pic's. Would some one help me and please post a step by step with pic's if possable. I'd be greatful. I just got my DC TRD Off Road and this would be great for the snow.
 
#37 ·
I really want to do this mod, I can't figure out, what was done and how from the previouse pic's. Would some one help me and please post a step by step with pic's if possable. I'd be greatful. I just got my DC TRD Off Road and this would be great for the snow.

Open your glove box, pull in on the 2 back sides of it to release the keepers, it will drop the rest of the way out. Remove the "shock" and finish pulling out your glove box.
There is a 10mm hex head bolt just behind where your glove box latches, remove it. Pull out on the right and left sides (they
are just clipped in) of this "roof" to your glove box and finish removing it.
Now you should see the white plastic junction block connector that we are looking for. We want the top connector, top/left wire in that connector. It is yellow with a black stripe. There is no need to remove the connector or the wire.
Strip a piece of wire about 1/4" and jam it in the connector, right alongside the yellow w/black wire. Zip tie all of the wires together so your new wire does not work it's way out. Run this wire to your switch.
Run another wire from your switch to a ground (I used the one shown in the pic), mount the switch where you would like.
Go out and play!!!
 
#39 ·
Picked up the same small switch as used in the pictures provided, gonna try this mod tomorrow if the weather permits.

Does anyone else have a "hidden location" closer to the drivers position to mount the switch? I like the idea of it hidden in the glove box, but don't want to be leaning over all the time to flip the switch.

I was thinking maybe in the change pocket or underneath the steering wheel. Any other ideas welcomed!
 
#40 ·
I would do the coin holder... If you're like me, your knees would hit a switch under the steering wheel and either toggle it or jam it into your leg! If you toggle it before starting the truck some of the indicator lights come on if IIRC.