DIY: 5S-FE Transmission Fluid & Strainer Replacement Procedure

dz63 · Jan 1, 2009

DIY: 1996 Camry Transmission Fluid & Strainer Replacement Procedure 5S-FE (GEN 3)

I completed this procedure at 207,000 km on my 1996 Camry 2.2L automatic (5S-FE engine). The transmission fluid was turning a brownish-red colour. The transmission fluid was previously flushed at 145,000 km. No problems with the transmission - just preventive maintenance. Although, this procedure only covers the transmission, I also drained and filled the differential fluid at the same time. There is a very good DIY already posted on TN for the differential drain and fill. I recommend that you follow this.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=197974

Note that my local Toyota service department advised me that Toyota does NOT recommend changing the transmission strainer. Toyota officially only recommends a drain and fill. However, most other references including a local independent transmission shop informed me that for the small cost of a new strainer, they always change the strainer at the same time. After taking mine apart, the strainer was clean. It didn't appear to be in need of replacement.

Disclaimer
Use this guide at your own risk! I assume no responsibility for any damage to your vehicle or personal injury as a result of following this guide. Any comments to improve the procedure will be gratefully received and incorporated where possible.

Special Tools Required
¼” drive torque wrench (suitable to be set to 48 in.lbs. of torque).
10mm Allen (Hex) Key Wrench

Time Required
It took me 4 hours from start to finish, including time to take photos and make notes as well as fill the transmission and differential to the right level and take the car for a test drive. If I had to do it again, I think I could reasonably pare this down to about 2 hours.

Parts Required.
Aftermarket transmission gasket & strainer $19.72 taxes and environmental handling charge included (Partsource no. FK244)
10 liters of transmission fluid (compatible with Dexron II) $40.02 taxes and “Ecofee” included (Canadian Tire no. 028-1534-0). This is enough fluid to flush the transmission and refill the differential.
Total = $59.74 CAD (taxes included).

Note: For comparison, a Toyota OEM gasket = $18.31 + Toyota OEM transmission strainer = $146.90 = $165.21 (taxes included). Transmission flush at local lube shop is $112 (taxes included). To drop the pan, replace the filter and flush the transmission at a local transmission shop is $248.60 (taxes included).

Let’s get started!

1. Warm up the engine and transmission by driving the car just before this procedure. Hot transmission fluid is more effective than cold fluid at removing built up sediment. Block the rear tires, set the parking brake, jack up the front of the car and lower it on to jack stands. Ensure that the car is stable and adequately supported prior to proceeding. Place large amounts of newspaper or cardboard under the car to catch any spills.

2. Remove the transmission fluid dip stick (red circle) and set aside. Place a catch pan under the drain plug (green circle). The drain plug is on the bottom of the transmission pan which is located on driver’s side of the engine compartment. It is accessed by crawling underneath the car from the front.

3. Remove the plug (10mm hex key wrench required) and allow the fluid to drain. Warning: Fluid temperatures can exceed 350°F in a hot transmission, so be very careful when draining. Wear protective gloves. Be sure the drain pan is properly centered as the fluid will come out with some force.

4. There are 15 bolts securing the transmission pan to the transmission. While the transmission is draining, remove all of the rear bolts (10mm socket) and loosen the remaining two front bolts. Note that my front bolts were severely rusted and I rounded off the corners on a couple of them trying to remove them. I was eventually able to get them out by spraying the bolts with penetrating oil and using a slightly smaller 3/8” ( 9.5mm) socket to turn them out. If your bolts are rusted, be very careful. If you break the head off or round the corners, this will significantly complicate this job. Note that I replaced the two damaged bolts with stainless steel bolts and washers. For reference, the bolt size is M6 x1.0 x 14mm. My transmission pan stuck to the transmission even after that the 13 bolts were removed and the other two were loosened.

5. Reposition the drain pan to the back of the transmission and gently loosen the rear of the pan by prying downward with small pry bar or flat head screwdriver using one hand, while holding the pan up with your other hand. Slowly lower the rear corner of the pan. Fluid will pour out into your drain pan. This is where the newspapers come in handy – in case you miss the target!

6. When the fluid has stopped draining from the transmission pan, remove the last two bolts and lower the transmission pan. Here is what mine looked like. There should be three magnets. Mine was missing one, presumably lost by the person who did this procedure before me. Magnets are circled in red.
[EDIT: Nov. 22, 2011] I have subsequently learned that the photo shown in my Haynes manual with three magnets is for the transmission pan in a six cylinder Camry engine. The 5SFE four cylinder engine only has two magnets in the transmission pan as shown in the above photo. Thanks to TN member Posimoto for pointing this out.

7. Remove the magnets and clean them up with a rag. Pick all of the metal filings off of the magnets.

8. Wipe the transmission pan clean with rags and scrape off the gasket. My gasket stuck entirely to the transmission pan and scraped off mostly in one piece. Ensure that there is no residual gasket on either the pan or the transmission prior to proceeding to the next. The instructions in my filter kit indicated that it is NOT recommended to sand or wire brush the gasket surfaces, presumably because it may damage the paint and cause the pan to corrode? I just used a paint scraper and the gasket came off quite easily. There was no residue on the transmission flange.

9. Reposition the drain pan over the strainer (green arrow). Unclip the cable that is secured to the bottom of the strainer and then remove the three strainer retaining bolts (10mm) with one hand while holding the strainer up with the other hand. Carefully tilt the strainer in order to drain the fluid into the drain pan. Note that one of the bolts (red circle) is longer than the other two bolts (red arrows). Make a mental note of which bolts go where.

10. Install the new strainer. Ensure that the longer bolt goes in the correct position. Slide the cable under the clip on the strainer. The recommended torque for the strainer bolts is 84 in.lbs.
[EDIT: Nov. 22, 2011] The recommended torque specification was changed from 96 in.lbs. to 84 in.lbs. Thanks to TN forum member Dodgertown for supplying this information from the Toyota factory service manual.

11. Place the clean magnets in the transmission pan in the approximate location where they were removed. I actually changed their position to be near where the fluid discharges from the strainer and added a third magnet.
[EDIT: Nov. 22, 2011] The 5SFE four cylinder engine only has two magnets in the transmission pan as shown in Step 6 above. photo. It is not recommended to change this. Thanks to TN member Posimoto for pointing this out.

12. It is not recommended to use gasket adhesive to adhere the gasket to the pan. Some recommend using grease to hold the gasket in place, but I didn’t find it necessary. I simply pushed the bolts up through the holes in the transmission pan and through the holes in the rubber gasket. The holes in the gasket were tight enough to hold the bolts and the gasket in place.

13. Bolt the transmission pan to the transmission and evenly torque the bolts to 43 in.lbs. Note...this is INCH-pounds, not FOOT-pounds! Be careful not to over tighten the bolts, or it may squeeze the gasket out, causing a leak. 43 in.lbs is a very low torque. My ½” torque wrench did not go down this low, so I had to borrow a ¼” torque wrench to do this step. I recommend that check your torque wrench prior to tackling this job. Install the drain plug. Recommended torque for the drain plug is 36 ft.lbs.
[EDIT: updated Nov. 22, 2011] The recommended torque specification was changed from 48 in.lbs. to 43 in.lbs. Thanks to TN forum member Dodgertown for supplying this information from the Toyota factory service manual.

14. Lower the vehicle so that it is level. With the engine off, add about 3 liters of clean transmission fluid (Dexron II or compatible) to the transmission through the dipstick hole. The capacity for a transmission drain and refill is listed in the Haynes manual as 2.6 quarts. Check under the car to ensure that there are no leaks.

15. Locate the transmission cooler lines. Disconnect the hose that returns fluid from the transmission cooler to the transmission (red arrow). A small amount of transmission fluid will leak from the hose – not much. On my Camry, the return hose was on the driver side. If you are not sure which one is the correct hose, disconnect one of them and get a helper to momentarily start the car. With the car running, you want the fluid coming out of the hose that leads to the radiator. If fluid is coming out of the metal tube that leads back to the transmission, you have got the wrong one.

16. Insert a clear flexible PVC hose inside the transmission cooler hose and clamp it with a hose clamp. I found that a piece of 7/16” OD x 5/16” ID x 4’ long hose worked perfectly. This line is not high pressure, so don’t worry too much about the integrity of the connection. Insert the other end of the clear PVC hose into a drain pan or waste container.

17. Get a helper to start the car and while the old, dirty fluid is being pumped out of the transmission cooler pour clean transmission fluid into the dipstick hole. With the 5/16” ID PVC hose, the fluid came out at about 1 liter/15 seconds. I found if you keep the dipstick funnel full, it pours in at a slightly slower rate than it comes out, so I stopped the car a few times to catch up. If you see air bubbles coming out of the drain line, then stop the car and allow the transmission to fill some more before starting the car again. Continue this until the fluid in the drain line comes out red, like the new fluid going in. I found that it took about 6 liters in addition to the 3 liters already added. Reconnect the transmission cooler line.

18. With the engine idling, check the fluid level. Add fluid up to the “cool” level on the dipstick. Replace the dipstick. Over the next several days, re-check the level and adjust if necessary. CAUTION: Do not overfill the transmission.

Note: Drop the transmission fluid off at a local garage or lube shop. In our city, they will take the old transmission fluid with the recycle goods, provided that it is placed in the original containers.

Dave's · Jan 1, 2009

Not bad! Since they warn not to move the position of the magnets I don't think I would. There may be clearance issues you can't see or some other reason. (Doesn't mean you'll have a problem, I have no idea.)
Not sure but I think the connector with the white wire is one of the shift solenoids. For those who have shift problems I solved mine by following your procedure but also removing the solenoids (very easy) and cleaning them. Use less than 60 PSI with a rubber-tipped nozzle pressed to the hole on the end. Then apply 12V to the wire and the case. (I attached neg to case and momentarily touched pos to wire.) It should 'click' and air come out the side ports (holes) with voltage applied. They can also be replaced of course.
(Sorry, don't mean to hijack your thread, but you provided such good instructions with photos- just thought I'd add to it.)

dz63 · Jan 1, 2009

Dave's said:
Not bad! Since they warn not to move the position of the magnets I don't think I would. There may be clearance issues you can't see or some other reason. (Doesn't mean you'll have a problem, I have no idea.)

I also debated about moving the magnets. The fact that one magnet was totally missing and the position of the remaining two magnets did not match my Haynes manual, led me to believe that the person who cleaned the transmission pan before me was a bit careless. In the end, I intentionally decided to move them closer to the position shown in the Haynes manual.

When you dropped your pan, do you remember where your magnets were located?

Tom 2000 · Jan 1, 2009

Great photos and instructions. I will have to do the same.

Stillrunning · Jan 1, 2009

You can just clean and re-use the trans filter (actually only a screen). I agree magnets should not have been moved from factory positions. Unfortunately you just replaced the pan fluid, about 2.6 qts. The entire system holds about 6 quarts so you'll find your new fluid will be re-contaminated fairly soon. A complete change would involve flushing the old fluid out with new. I also use an in-line trans oil filter, Magnefine, which is actually a filter with magnet. Best place to buy is here: http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?

dz63 · Jan 1, 2009

Stillrunning said:
You can just clean and re-use the trans filter (actually only a screen). I agree magnets should not have been moved from factory positions. Unfortunately you just replaced the pan fluid, about 2.6 qts. The entire system holds about 6 quarts so you'll find your new fluid will be re-contaminated fairly soon. A complete change would involve flushing the old fluid out with new. I also use an in-line trans oil filter, Magnefine, which is actually a filter with magnet. Best place to buy is here: http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?

Stillrunning - interesting! Thank you for the link. With the in line filter, does this mean that you no longer need drop the pan and change the filter inside the transmission? If so, that would save a lot of time and mess in the long run. Can you give us some more information like how much did the inline filter setup cost and how much are replacement filters? Is it a cloth or paper filter element or simply an inline mesh strainer similar to the one in the transmission? Where did you install it and does it need to be supported? Any chance, you could post a photo of your installation?

A complete fluid change would indeed include a flush after dropping the pan and cleaning the magnets. This would flush the fluid out of the torque converter and transmission cooler and make sure all of the fluid is fresh. I discussed this with my local transmission shop and that is exactly how they do it. They quoted me $220 to drop the pan, clean the pan and magnets, change the strainer, re-install the pan, then flush with 12-14 liters of clean fluid and also drain and fill the differential.

In the end I have read a number of warnings against flushing the transmission (problems with dislodging particles and then the particles getting stuck somewhere else in the transmission) so that I am now a bit reluctant to do a flush. That in combination with the added expense and in the end, when I dropped my pan, it seemed to be very clean inside. So, I deliberately chose not to flush this time.

I welcome any thoughts on transmission flushing as I have done it twice before on this car with no known ill effects, but I have recently read a lot of negative opinions about it on the internet. A transmission flush at the local Economy Lube is $99.

DMZ · Jan 1, 2009

Good post dz'. :thumbsup:

My 98 is due for the same procedure and I was going to schedule the work with the dealer next week. (I have been putting it off until the new year).

But, I think I can take it on myself after reading through your post. I even have a 1/4" drive torque wrench.

BMR · Jan 1, 2009

Nice DIY post dz63! BTW, two of the three magnets on my V6 were up in between the longish ribs on the pan. I doubt it matters, tho.

sbushnak · Jan 1, 2009

Great job. vote for sticky.

Eye8Pussies · Jan 12, 2009

great write-up! thanks! added to FAQ!

Phat Devil · Jan 18, 2009

Just making sure about this (could be a solution to my tranny woes). So when you recheck the tranny fluid a couple days later, after the car's been running and is at its normal temp, I'm guessing the dipstick should sit at the "hot" section right? And we are suppose to check it with the engine running too right?

When i checked the level the other day after driving home from work. (15-20min drive) Parked the car and checked the dipstick with the car running. It was in the cold part of the dipstick even tho the car is hot. (The last fluid change was at the dealership when they had to replace my torque converter and the main seal about 25,000km ago.)

dz63 · Jan 19, 2009

Phat Devil said:
Just making sure about this (could be a solution to my tranny woes). So when you recheck the tranny fluid a couple days later, after the car's been running and is at its normal temp, I'm guessing the dipstick should sit at the "hot" section right? And we are suppose to check it with the engine running too right?

When i checked the level the other day after driving home from work. (15-20min drive) Parked the car and checked the dipstick with the car running. It was in the cold part of the dipstick even tho the car is hot. (The last fluid change was at the dealership when they had to replace my torque converter and the main seal about 25,000km ago.)

After 15-20 minutes of driving, the tranny should be "hot" (ie. at its normal operating temperature). With the vehicle idling on level ground, pull, wipe, reinsert and pull the dipstick again. The level should be between the two notches labelled hot. Take a few readings to make sure. It takes about one pint to raise the fluid level from the low mark to the high mark. Add a little at a time and re-check. A low fluid level can lead to slipping or loss of drive. Too much can lead to foaming and transaxle damage.

wtftoy · Jan 19, 2009

From what I've read about flushing the transmission (with a flush machine), IF its never been done and the cars at high mileage you should NOT do it. Doing a drain and refill a couple of times will eventually clean the fluid. If you just go a google search, you will read a lot of posts about people just having a flush done because it was recommended and a few thousand miles later transmission died. Its not a myth, it makes sense. BUT anyhow, its your car so do whatever you believe.

@Phat Devil
This is how I check the fluid. If its a cold start, let the car idle (10-15 mins depending on temperature), run through all the gears and leave it in each gear for 2-3 secs -->ex. P -> R (leave it for 2 secs) -> N (2 secs) -> D (2 secs)...and so on....Do the same procedure for all the gears, once you've reached the last one (probably '1') go backwards and repeat the same procedure. Then check your trans dipstick and it should be between the two notches labeled cold. I recommend you still cycle through all the gears when checking it for the hot position like dz63 posted.

Stillrunning · Jan 19, 2009

wtftoy said:
From what I've read about flushing the transmission (with a flush machine), IF its never been done and the cars at high mileage you should NOT do it. If you just go a google search, you will read a lot of posts about people just having a flush done because it was recommended and a few thousand miles later transmission died. Its not a myth, it makes sense.

The term flushing does not mean the fluid is changed using high pressure. Either with a machine or by DIY method you are only using the existing pumping action of the tranmission to change the fluid. If dirt is dislodged then it gets flushed. To believe that a tranmission failure occurred because of cleaner fluid is to believe that dirt holds the tranmission together. If "it makes sense" then explain how?

Phat Devil · Jan 19, 2009

Thanks guys, guess the dealership didnt put in enough oil

!! I'll add some more in now.

wtftoy · Jan 19, 2009

I was referring to flushing as using the high pressured machine and from what I've read, this is the common term used.

@StillrunningAlso: Yes, thats the reason why there was in parenthesis "(with a flush machine)" in my previous post, so I hope people would know that I meant the high pressured machine AND NOT the way dz63 described. Using the trans cooler line or just repeating the drain and refill are fine in my book. And BTW, if you used the high pressure machine to flush, it would mean applying high pressure to the transmission for the fluid to come out. If you just do a quick google search on 'flushing transmission with high pressure', you'll get all the answers you need.

I'm not saying the machine is bad, it works on cars that have had the transmission fluid maintained and good condition. But on cars, say 80k+ and have never had a drop of transmission fluid done then using this machine will produce more harm then good. And if that's the case, using the cooler line or drain and refill will be advised.

@dz63: Thanks for the DIY! I'm sure it will help out a lot!

Stillrunning · Jan 20, 2009

wtftoy said:
I was referring to flushing as using the high pressured machine and from what I've read, this is the common term used.

Never seen a "high pressure" machine. Why would it be high pressure? The "machines" I have seen are just an easy one man way to flush and fill at the same time with old fluid entering the bottom of a piston and new fluid exiting on the top of the piston. Engine still does the pumping. Maybe you could post "high pressure machine" pics/info?

wtftoy · Jan 20, 2009

I guess you didn't google... Most lower entry 'fushing' machines uses high pressure to exchange the fluid. I talked to people that worked at vavoline and a few mechanic shops around here and they DO NOT have the high end version that uses the engine to pump and can only afford the entry level. Again, using this machine on a high mileage car with a mistreated transmission will likely result in failure of it. I can't show proof using my own car because, hey, I keep all my cars maintained. I see flushes advertised for over $90 bucks, might as well do a couple of drain and refills since it'll still cost less.

Heres a quick google. I'm not trying to argue with you, that flushing is bad, just read my previous post and just google the information if you have any doubts.

Stillrunning · Jan 20, 2009

wtftoy said:
Again, using this machine on a high mileage car with a mistreated transmission will likely result in failure of it.

I'm not sure shops would want this liability unless they had the owner sign a waiver - but, if you doubt the safety then look for a machine that uses the transmission pumping to replace the fluid. Again, if dirt is dislodged then it is flushed with clean fluid so I can't see how this would shorten the life of the tranmission. I guess we just need to agree to disagree.

Guest · Jan 21, 2009

That google link is just an ad that touts the the T-Tech brand by Solar. Someone trying to sell you something = not very believeable. Neglected trans is still a neglected trans, machine or no machine. Doesn't matter if you put in the best trans fluid money can buy, its still gonna break if it wants to. People who follow the service intervals keep their cars running. People who don't are usually looking for something to blame it on when their trans or motor blows right after a service. Trans flushes aren't magic.

nitelifeguy · Jan 29, 2009

Need help with replacing oil cooler lines

Thanks for posting these photo diagrams.they come in handy for sure..

I was wondering if anyone would know how to go about replacing the cooler lines shown in step 15 of this thread. For awhile now my Camry has been losing trans fluid and i detected the leak in the oil cooler lines. On the left side (i think it's the outlet line) right above where that red arrow is located, the piece of is is rusted/rotted out and i noticed fluid bubbling out and leaking down along the rubber hose to the bottom part of the frame below the lines.

Now i've searched online for a replacement part but the ones i came across look nothing like the one shown in dz63's diagram in Fig 15. The parts shown look longer and wider than the actual line leading from the radiator. The OEM part doesn't have the U shape metal tube along with the rubber hose clamped to it as shown in that photo..

The example is in the Rock Auto catalog:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raf...m/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1273261&parttype=10343&a=FRc1273261k872181

Just wondering if anyone has replaced these before..Thanks

Stillrunning · Jan 29, 2009

nitelifeguy said:
Now i've searched online for a replacement part but the ones i came across look nothing like the one shown in dz63's diagram in Fig 15. The parts shown look longer and wider than the actual line leading from the radiator. The OEM part doesn't have the U shape metal tube along with the rubber hose clamped to it as shown in that photo..Thanks

I don't think the shape has to be exact as the metal tube is just a transition to the rubber hose. You can buy new hose that is longer if you need. Why don't you take your tube into the dealer and compare to OEM replacement. The important connection is the flare nut that attaches to the transmission, this has to be exact.

Posimoto · Feb 13, 2009

dz63 said:
6. There should be three magnets. Mine was missing one, presumably lost by the person who did this procedure before me. Magnets are circled in red.

FYI, When I pulled my transmission pan for the first time there were only two magnets in the pan placed there from the factory. I purchased my 94 from the dealership and I have been the only one to remove the pan.

Well done on the write-up! :thumbsup:

dz63 · Feb 13, 2009

I guess mine was built during a similar beer bash in 1996! Looks like I wasted a good magnet for nothing! :thumbsdow

Posimoto · Mar 16, 2009

Go to page 1 of this thread picture 11.

The 2 magnets on your left, (1 higher 1 lower) are in the correct position for a 2 magnet pan.

JohnGD · Jun 18, 2009

Also, make sure the magnets do not block the strainer pick up port.

Oldcar95 · Mar 31, 2009

Which type of ATF to used?

I have a 95 Camry with 200000 on it and would like to change the ATF. I saw an ad for Valvoline Max Life Dex/Merc ATF. It is rated for a car over 75000. Should I used it in my Camry?

mickeeand · Apr 17, 2009

I did it! Well...not without some hicups.

Hey all,
I just did a flush as described here and it worked. Pumped out the bad and in with the good.
I removed the pan and while I was installing it I broke a bolt head off. 43ft pounds my buttocks?
Weakened or bad bolt but I got it out. What a PITA.
Anyway the trans oil was crap black. I hate when people dont do maintenance on their vehicles. I just bought this one.
94

Thanks again,
Mike

dz63 · Apr 17, 2009

mickeeand,

43 ft.lbs is 39 too many! At this high of torque, you will squeeze the gasket out. The specs for the transmission pan bolts is only 48 in.lbs. = 4 ft.lbs. It is barely any torque at all. You will need a 1/4" drive torque wrench to get this low.

mickeeand · Apr 17, 2009

Holy moly!

dz63 said:
mickeeand,

43 ft.lbs is 39 too many! At this high of torque, you will squeeze the gasket out. The specs for the transmission pan bolts is only 48 in.lbs. = 4 ft.lbs. It is barely any torque at all. You will need a 1/4" drive torque wrench to get this low.

mickeeand · Apr 17, 2009

no wonder...man I feel stupid.
inch pounds..there it is...I mistook it for ft pounds...geez.
Well I tightened them until they were snug evenly.
The pan is not leaking, I have checked twice.
Whew.
I need a beer! and ponder my stupidalityness. Ya I made that up.
Thanks guys.

Mike

dz63 · Apr 17, 2009

To reinforce this point, I added

"Note...this is INCH-pounds, not FOOT-pounds!"

to step 13.

gcorolla99 · Apr 21, 2009

dz63, where did you buy your clear plastic hose? Thanks.

hill8570 · Apr 22, 2009

gcorolla99 said:
dz63, where did you buy your clear plastic hose? Thanks.

I picked some up recently at Home Depot -- good selection of vinyl hoses in various I.D.s and O.D.s

Camry LE 94 · Jun 17, 2009

dz63 said:

would you or anyone else here know what exact size there magnets are? i'd like to take someones advice and replace these magnets using stronger ones when i attempt this procedure

gtturbo93 · Jun 19, 2009

where did you buy the extra tranny oil pan magnets? i went to toyota and they want $9.50 each. also is yours a 4 cyl or 6 cyl. the parts guy at Toyota says there should only be 2 magnets in a 4 cyl and 3 in a 6 cyl. not sure about this?

dz63 · Jun 19, 2009

gtturbo93 said:
where did you buy the extra tranny oil pan magnets? i went to toyota and they want $9.50 each. also is yours a 4 cyl or 6 cyl. the parts guy at Toyota says there should only be 2 magnets in a 4 cyl and 3 in a 6 cyl. not sure about this?

gtturbo - My Camry is a 4 cylinder. I mistakenly thought there was supposed to be three magnets based on a photo in my Haynes repair manual, but later discovered that two magnets is the norm for my Camry.

The magnets I used were samples left over from a prototype job at work. I think they were either an Alnico 5 or 8 bar magnet from one of the major magnet suppliers like Bunting or Permag. I put two magnets together to get approximately same size as the existing ones in the pan.

$9.50 is relatively inexpensive for a magnet in my opinion. I know that they sell individual magnets at my local Home Depot (at the end of the fastener aisle - near the screw driver bits). You could check there to see if they are any cheaper.

I have also have some very strong, rare earth Neodymium Iron Boron magnets at home, but they were the wrong shape and much stronger than the existing transmission pan magnets, so I decided against using them.

DIY: 5S-FE Transmission Fluid & Strainer Replacement Procedure

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