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HOW TO: Using the factory rear view camera with aftermarket stereo

159K views 25 replies 17 participants last post by  044runner4wd  
#1 · (Edited)
Hi everyone..

I been a lurker for years and have posted a few times, but I wanted to put this up as a solution for those that are looking to put in a aftermarket system in their 4runner but want to use the factory rear view camera (You know the nice one built into the rear gate?)

This came about when my Wife had it with the E7008 and wanted an upgrade to something more flexable and user friendly.

Anyways, let's get started here..

The factory camera built into the 4Runner as well as other models runs a 6 volt current, not 12 volt, so we need some items to make this work.
DO NOT go out and spend a fortune on voltage converters it a waste and I will show you how to make one for under a buck fifty

First off, you need a few things to start

Extra lengths of 18 gauge primary wire (white, black, red, etc)
And old VIDEO RCA cable (picture below)
From Digikey.com a 7806 transistor and heatsink (part# 497-1445-5-ND & HS278-ND, I use digikey due to very cheap and good service. these two ports cost a whopping $1.23)
20mm fuse holder from Radio Shack ($2.99) with 1.5amp fuse
shrink tube 1/8 inch
Soldering iron, tools etc..

RCA cables
Image


Circuits and wires / fuse holder
Image


Now, on the Toyota 4Runner (I will use a 2008 model for reference) locate the 26 pin harness (B for technical reference), pins 21,22,23 & 24
this is the pinout you need

21 - Camera ground (white)
22 - Video positive (black)
23 - Video ground / sheilding (brown)
24 - Camera positive (red)

You will also need (and most aftermarket radios with built-in Nav require this)

9-pin harness (D for tech ref)

5 - Reverse wire (red/yellow)

Cut off the insulation to the wires to expose as much as possilbe (you will get about 4 inches) and snip off the wires as close to the harness connector as possible (without cutting other wires)

Now, before you go and connect anything, we need to build our voltage converter. The 7806 is a simple transistor that will convert 12v to 6v but with a high end limit of 1.5amps, perfect for a small video camera. To put this together, do the following (this requires soldering)

First using a 6-24 machine screw (about 1/4+ in length, cut a longer one if you have to) attach the 7806 to the heat sink

Image

Image


To solder the 7806, using s needle nose pliers, bend the end pins one up and one down, never side to side, this will crack the transistor.
Solder the wire to the pins in this order (tin the wire leads first as this will make it easier)

Left to right, pin 1, Input, solder the fuse holder to this pin (be sure to slip on some heat shrink BEFORE you start soldering)
Pin 2 - solder a 18ga ground wire
Pin 3 - Output, solder a 18ga wire to this pin.

(I would make the wires about 15 inches in length), when completed, it SHOULD look like this..

Image

Image


When you got it right, gently bend back the pins so they are straight.

Now for a quick test, ground the center pin wire to a nut or bolt on the car somewhere and touch the input to a live constant wire. Take your DMM and put black to where the ground is and first touch where the input wire is connected, then touch the output wire. You should see the following

Image

Image


Now you have made a $2.00 voltage converter. (pat self on back) This is exactly the same conversion type used inside the Toyota factory radio.

Now, for the next steps, you can either solder or use a butt connector, up to you and how comfortable you are.
After you have snipped the wires off the harnesses, strip away about 1/3 inch of wire from all 5 (including reverse wire)

Note on the reverse wire: This is where we are going to get the power for the camera, reason being is that it turn on ONLY when the car is put into reverse and it is a 12v wire. Perfect. This wire also will connect to your HU to tell it that your car is in reverse (This is what switches the HU to the rear view camera when you put car in reverse)

Here we go..

On the RCA cable, connect the center wire (positive) to the black (pin 22) wire. either solder or crimp
On the RCa cable, connect the sheilding wire (neg) to the brown (pin 23) wire. Ditto.

On the 7806, connect the input wire (fuse holder) to the reverse wire (pin 5) - I would use a butt connector and twist the reverse and 7806 input and run into one side while the aftermarket HU runs into the other

On the 7806, ground the center wire to a ground point in the car or the HU harness ground.

On the 7806, connect the output wire to the red (pin 24) positive camera wire

And finally, connect a butt connector (or solder) the white (pin 21) camera ground and run a 18ga wire to the same ground point as the 7806 center pin

MAKE SURE that if you do not shrink tube these connections, use a good elec tape (scotch 33+) and wrap them well.

Now, connect the reverse wire on the HU to the car reverse/7806 input (you put a butt connector here, remember?) and connect the RCA to the rear view camera input.

Put the car in reverse and you should see...

Image


(pat self on back again) you have just wired the factory rear view camera to your new HU. You can take the 7806 and run it down toward the center console and let it hang. It does not get "hot" just a tad warm or use some 3m double sided tape and tape it against a air duct.. does not matter, just put it out of the way.

I am fairly certain the wires on this how to are the same color on other toyotas, so this should work, if not, all you need is the electrical diagram that lists the wire color and insert into the list above.

I have many years in the 12 volt world and if I can help in any way trying to figure out a way to do something with our cars, drop me a line.. Would love a new challenge.

Any questions, feel free to ask otherwise good luck..

Steve
 
#3 ·
Nice writeup

Thanks for the excellent writeup! Can you tell me which transistor you would recommend for getting +5V at 1 amp out? I want to wire a USB charging port into the car and this seems to be a perfect way to do it (with a different transistor). Any other considerations for using it for USB power?


Thanks again.
 
#4 ·
Thunderplains

Here we go..

On the RCA cable, connect the center wire (positive) to the black (pin 22) wire. either solder or crimp
On the RCa cable, connect the sheilding wire (neg) to the brown (pin 23) wire. Ditto.

On the 7806, connect the input wire (fuse holder) to the reverse wire (pin 5) - I would use a butt connector and twist the reverse and 7806 input and run into one side while the aftermarket HU runs into the other

On the 7806, ground the center wire to a ground point in the car or the HU harness ground.

On the 7806, connect the output wire to the red (pin 24) positive camera wire

And finally, connect a butt connector (or solder) the white (pin 21) camera ground and run a 18ga wire to the same ground point as the 7806 center pin

MAKE SURE that if you do not shrink tube these connections, use a good elec tape (scotch 33+) and wrap them well.

Now, connect the reverse wire on the HU to the car reverse/7806 input (you put a butt connector here, remember?) and connect the RCA to the rear view camera input.






I understood how to make the adapter, however I m not really familiar with the technical terms you use, I m new to this. I would like to know how to connect this adapter to the wiring that goes on here
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/audio-video/30889-oem-camera-connection-below-dash.html

I also would like to have the option to turn on/off the camera. Thanks
 
#5 ·
I know this thread's a couple years old, but HUGE thanks to the OP. Just used the exact same instructions to wire the factory camera on a 2013 Highlander to a new Kenwood HU. Pinouts on the factory harnesses were slightly different, but I went ahead and spent the $15 for a TIS subscription to get wiring diagrams (which proved to be extremely useful for steering wheel controls and many other things).

Anyway, thanks again...
 
#8 ·
Great Post! Very informative. What would I need if I wanted to use a 3.3 volt camera with a headunit that puts out 6 volts? Am I correct in assuming that the same method with a different transistor, fuse, and fuse holder would do it? If so, what would those need to be? I dont know a lot about electronics, but I have soldered before to replace capacitors on the circuit board in my TV. (I was following youtube, so I basically just copied what the guy on the video did.)

Some additional information: I have a 2012 Toyota camry Hybrid, where the headunit output is six volts. Most cameras found on ebay are 12 volt, but a few of them are actually 3.3 volt cameras with a voltage regulator that drops the voltage from 12 to 3.3. I'm thinking if I cut that out and replace it with one that converts from 6Vto 3.3V, that should do the trick.
 
#10 ·
Hey everyone,
Sorry to revive such an old post but I came across it after doing a TON of searching and this totally addresses my problem, I love it. I have a 2013 Prius so this situation still applies to me. One question though, I purchased the parts and put it together, tested the voltage and it works great.. however the transistor and heat sink get VERY very hot... Is this normal? I'm kind of concerned about the heat it's generating since I don't want it melting the insulation off the neighboring wires potentially creating a short and even worse a fire.

I haven't been able to get video from my stock backup camera to my aftermarket HU yet, but I'm sure it's something stupid I did so I'll be double checking all of my connections later. I disconnected the transistor for now by removing the fuse since I'm concerned about the heat, I'd love to know if anyone else tried this approach and if you're experiencing the same heat issue.

Thanks,
-Keith
 
#13 ·
I would like to know this also - but it should be the same concept ...

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/3...ix-interior-audio-forum/438793-2013-corolla-le-back-up-camera-installation.html

That is installing the OEM camera to the OEM head unit, but it has the pin-outs for the camera on a 2013 Corolla - should be the same on a 2014 Corolla.

What would be nice is if there were a harness that connected to the OEM camera/steering wheel control harness so you didn't need to cut the factory wiring - you MIGHT be able to do that with the Metra OESWC-1761H harness, or the 70-8114 should work, but you would need additional pins and wire to populate the camera part of the plug.
 
#17 ·
I would think the Amazon converter would work, but I was confused since there seem to be four wires instead of three.

Found one with a better picture - I'm thinking it would be:

http://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Po...Supply-Module/dp/B00F439BVW/ref=pd_sim_23_8?ie=UTF8&refRID=18NVQ7QDCKPATETEEAX5

Red - next to the black wire - 12V input - to fuse holder and head unit and Pin 5 Reverse wire.

Black and Yellow to GND.

Red - next to Yellow - To camera power Pin 24.

Test with a DMM first, though ...
 
#19 · (Edited)
I just did my 2005 4runner limited. It had a JBL with Nav and JBL amp/sub. I had used this info but with different connections. Here is my reverse signal connection.
Image
. I put in a kenwood and used the PAC RP4.2-TY11 Toyota/Lexus Interface I got from crutchfield. That part was a little confusing on such things as the remote control from the steering wheel and the remote power hook ups. I got through it though. I am posting the other stuff in a sec that was different from my 2005 and the 2008 posted above that was also a lot of help.
 
#23 ·
Thanks steve,
Quick question though, hoping you can help. I've got a 2011 Tacoma with existing camera and in mirror display with seperate compass and temp. What I'm wanting to do is use my factory wiring to connect a new mirror with compass and temp in the mirror display. The wires simply y-splice off the mirror harness in the headliner I already have the mirror it's a gentex 3320S w/o homelink. My problem is not wanting to fry my camera or mirror as it's 12v and the factory stuff is 6v. Any ideas where a guy could get the pinout for the mirror and if it's necessary to reduce the voltage?
 
#24 ·
Hi everyone..

I been a lurker for years and have posted a few times, but I wanted to put this up as a solution for those that are looking to put in a aftermarket system in their 4runner but want to use the factory rear view camera (You know the nice one built into the rear gate?)

This came about when my Wife had it with the E7008 and wanted an upgrade to something more flexable and user friendly.

Anyways, let's get started here..

The factory camera built into the 4Runner as well as other models runs a 6 volt current, not 12 volt, so we need some items to make this work.
DO NOT go out and spend a fortune on voltage converters it a waste and I will show you how to make one for under a buck fifty

First off, you need a few things to start

Extra lengths of 18 gauge primary wire (white, black, red, etc)
And old VIDEO RCA cable (picture below)
From Digikey.com a 7806 transistor and heatsink (part# 497-1445-5-ND & HS278-ND, I use digikey due to very cheap and good service. these two ports cost a whopping $1.23)
20mm fuse holder from Radio Shack ($2.99) with 1.5amp fuse
shrink tube 1/8 inch
Soldering iron, tools etc..

RCA cables
Image


Circuits and wires / fuse holder
Image


Now, on the Toyota 4Runner (I will use a 2008 model for reference) locate the 26 pin harness (B for technical reference), pins 21,22,23 & 24
this is the pinout you need

21 - Camera ground (white)
22 - Video positive (black)
23 - Video ground / sheilding (brown)
24 - Camera positive (red)

You will also need (and most aftermarket radios with built-in Nav require this)

9-pin harness (D for tech ref)

5 - Reverse wire (red/yellow)

Cut off the insulation to the wires to expose as much as possilbe (you will get about 4 inches) and snip off the wires as close to the harness connector as possible (without cutting other wires)

Now, before you go and connect anything, we need to build our voltage converter. The 7806 is a simple transistor that will convert 12v to 6v but with a high end limit of 1.5amps, perfect for a small video camera. To put this together, do the following (this requires soldering)

First using a 6-24 machine screw (about 1/4+ in length, cut a longer one if you have to) attach the 7806 to the heat sink

Image

Image


To solder the 7806, using s needle nose pliers, bend the end pins one up and one down, never side to side, this will crack the transistor.
Solder the wire to the pins in this order (tin the wire leads first as this will make it easier)

Left to right, pin 1, Input, solder the fuse holder to this pin (be sure to slip on some heat shrink BEFORE you start soldering)
Pin 2 - solder a 18ga ground wire
Pin 3 - Output, solder a 18ga wire to this pin.

(I would make the wires about 15 inches in length), when completed, it SHOULD look like this..

Image

Image


When you got it right, gently bend back the pins so they are straight.

Now for a quick test, ground the center pin wire to a nut or bolt on the car somewhere and touch the input to a live constant wire. Take your DMM and put black to where the ground is and first touch where the input wire is connected, then touch the output wire. You should see the following

Image

Image


Now you have made a $2.00 voltage converter. (pat self on back) This is exactly the same conversion type used inside the Toyota factory radio.

Now, for the next steps, you can either solder or use a butt connector, up to you and how comfortable you are.
After you have snipped the wires off the harnesses, strip away about 1/3 inch of wire from all 5 (including reverse wire)

Note on the reverse wire: This is where we are going to get the power for the camera, reason being is that it turn on ONLY when the car is put into reverse and it is a 12v wire. Perfect. This wire also will connect to your HU to tell it that your car is in reverse (This is what switches the HU to the rear view camera when you put car in reverse)

Here we go..

On the RCA cable, connect the center wire (positive) to the black (pin 22) wire. either solder or crimp
On the RCa cable, connect the sheilding wire (neg) to the brown (pin 23) wire. Ditto.

On the 7806, connect the input wire (fuse holder) to the reverse wire (pin 5) - I would use a butt connector and twist the reverse and 7806 input and run into one side while the aftermarket HU runs into the other

On the 7806, ground the center wire to a ground point in the car or the HU harness ground.

On the 7806, connect the output wire to the red (pin 24) positive camera wire

And finally, connect a butt connector (or solder) the white (pin 21) camera ground and run a 18ga wire to the same ground point as the 7806 center pin

MAKE SURE that if you do not shrink tube these connections, use a good elec tape (scotch 33+) and wrap them well.

Now, connect the reverse wire on the HU to the car reverse/7806 input (you put a butt connector here, remember?) and connect the RCA to the rear view camera input.

Put the car in reverse and you should see...

Image


(pat self on back again) you have just wired the factory rear view camera to your new HU. You can take the 7806 and run it down toward the center console and let it hang. It does not get "hot" just a tad warm or use some 3m double sided tape and tape it against a air duct.. does not matter, just put it out of the way.

I am fairly certain the wires on this how to are the same color on other toyotas, so this should work, if not, all you need is the electrical diagram that lists the wire color and insert into the list above.

I have many years in the 12 volt world and if I can help in any way trying to figure out a way to do something with our cars, drop me a line.. Would love a new challenge.

Any questions, feel free to ask otherwise good luck..

Steve
Hi Steve i drive a Toyota Alphard v6 3.0 chasis type MNH10. the HU original from japan comes with front and back camera and steering assist guidelines.
I am wondering any way to maintain using the current system if i change my HU to a android type?