Turbo'ing the 5sfe

vsixcamry · 10-22-2005, 07:40 PM

So im putting together a basic turbo manual for the 5sfe. This is not a very high budget setup. My main purpose is to get the information out there.

This is a ct-26/T3 setup for the 5sfe. I am also using the stock AT for now until i get ahold of an E153.

Good turbo info. .
http://www.meisners.net/camry/HomePage.htm
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/turbo.htm

Tranny Info
http://www.geocities.com/zegoat2000/e1531.html

How to install a SAFCII
http://www.celicatech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6271

How to install a SAFC
http://evilspeed.com/SAFC.htm

Basic tutorial -- (let me know if i left out anything)
Cold-start injector $5
OR whatever...
Cold-start injector $5

Hobbs like pressure switch $15

5/16" Brass _CGIR17_ $2.50
5/16" Fuel/Oil hose $30
5/16" Fitting $2.50
JB Kwik $6
RTV Silicon $6

12' * 2" EPDM-300 Kanaflex $30

1 box IDEAL hose clamps 2 1/2" $5
1 box IDEAL hose clamps 5/8" $5

SAFC I with knobs $144.00
OR
SAFC I screen $202
OR
SAFC II $254

315-360cc fuel injectors $20. If the 5s-fe is high impediance, I would snatch some MX6 / Probe injectors. 88-89 320cc, 90-92 is 330cc. If not ebay, then mx6.com or probetalk.com
If it's low impediance, just do the civic injectors. :P

190lph Walbro $90

$25-$50 for a used Manual transmission 2.3L Ford turbo. (Snatch a Mustang if you dare run across one, otherwise a Thunderbird with a (87-88 IHI rhb52, not a t3)
Or CT26
I like the T3; it will spool faster & drive much better, but you can buy a scrape piece of metal & drill / cut it out to adapt it.

Blow off valve $10-30
3s-gte manifold $50
Boost gauge $20
A/F gauge $20
Gauge pod $10 Camry pods obviously works! But so will Mustang gauge pods are much easier to find.

Intercooler if you don't have one. $15-30 for a DSM side mount, volvo, or saab cooler used. You won't need a really large one.
A/T cooler - something else you can pickup at a junkyard for $5-10 used.

Most of the installation is straight forward.
Take whatever you have to off the intake of the engine & install the new injectors in the fuel rail & Fuel pump
Go a head and reset the ECU! Pull the EFI fuse for a second & replace it - don't stand around waiting like a dork.
Take your exhaust manifold & downpipe (Manifold to cat convertor) pipe off.
Put the exhaust manifold on, bolt the Turbo, or adapter plate + turbo onto the manifold.
Take the oil pan off & clean it up. You'll see where the oil level normal is from stains. Go 1", 1 1/2" down from the top of the pan & drill a hole *just* big enough for the 5/16" barb to push out of the pan, but the other half of the fitting can't fit through. Clean both sides of this area up with lots of rubbing alcohol/acetone. JB Kwik the fitting in place on both sides. You'll have to hold it for 5 min until it starts to set so get comfortable! (And people bitch about how hard the oil pan is...)

Run the 5/16" line from the turbo oil return down to the oil pan. This needs to be down-hill the whole way without any kinks. The oil return does NOT have oil pressure.
Run whatever you decided for the oil pressure to the turbo. If it's larger than 3AN, or 1/8" you need a restrictor to cut the oil flow down.
Mount your A/T cooler.
Mount your inter cooler.
Install the A/T cooler hose from the stock cooler to the new cooler, and the new cooler to the transmission.

Run the EPDM-300 from the compressor outlet to the intercooler Zip-tie it in place for now.
Run the EPDM-300 from the Intercooler to where the MAF is & couple it to the _MAF.
If the pipes are where you want I would replace the zip-ties that hold the pipe in place with hose clamps.
Make SURE the pipe is not going to be in the way of the new downpipe (Turbo to Cat convertor).

Either install a small air filter on a short piece of pipe with a barb on it so you can run the PCV to the pre-turbo vacuum, or just let the PCV valve vent to atmosphere.

Install whatever controller you're going to use. I would turn the fuel down under 3000, start turning the fuel up at 3000 & all the way by like 4750(to start with). That way you can tune without danger of melting anything.
From here we're going to install the cold-start injector(CSI). Why? Because it's a very easy way to supply a little more fuel & one hell of a cheap way to gaurd against leaning out like everyone else.
Drill a hole just smaller than the boost pressure switches sensor 2" behind the MAF. Put a dab of RTV silicon on the threads, spreading it around. Screw the hobbs switch down.
We want to adjust the boost pressure switch to open at 5psi. A trick, would be to T your boost pressure gauge with the hobbs switch with a 50 cent wall-mart aquarium T. Blow around 5 psi into the boost gauge and adjust the hobbs switch so it triggers the CSI at 5psi.

Aint we smart! Most people would do this on the car and try to get it to work. Not us!!!
Clean the CSI up with alcohol, including the electrical connector. Solider wires onto the connector & fill that with RTV to seal it from weather. (Unless you were lucky & got the connector)
Drill a hole for the Cold-start injector just smaller than the injector. Spread some RTV on it & push it in. (Note, you want the injector to spray into the incoming stream, that way it will atomize better) Take two sheet metal screws, put a little RTV on them & screw them in.

-RTV normally setups up in a few hours, totally cured overnight. Whenever it's OK to work on it. The hobbs switch get's voltage from the battery, and sends it to the CSI. Ground the other CSI wire. It doesn't matter what wire you use.

-Splice in a wire from your o2 sensor to the gauge pod, run the boost line for the boost gauge where it needs to go. Mount the gauges in the pod & mount the pod. (I like A-pillar best)

-Reset the ECU again if you've driven without the turbo any.
Now... Go drive around easy. Drive 5-10 miles before you boost to warm the engine & sensors up.
When you do go into boost then first few times, ease into it. Watch the A/F gauge, you want roughly 9 of 10 lights to light up in boost! If you're not lighting them up under boost, you need to turn the fuel up just a little bit.

-If you get a light smoke under boost, that doesn't immediately mean the turbo seals are bad, restrict the oil line a little more & then see if it goes away after a few min when it burns out.

-You'll also note how we saved a lot of moeney in lines. 5/16" high temp oil hose can be used for the A/T, fuel line to the CSI, and the turbo oil return.

-Still need:
T fitting off the oil sender for oil pressure
Small diameter oil feed line (1/8", or 1/4" oil/fuel hose with a restrictor, or money for a metal line)

If the turbo is water cooled, take 5/16" oil hose & run the TB coolant & return to the turbo - the TB doesn't need it if you don't drive in under -10 weather all the time.

3" * 2" coupling to get the charge pipe on the AFM/MAF adapter.

Tube of RTV silicon to seal things.
Possibly need a step, or two colder spark plugs.

Thanks to Brandon (toysrme) and Sean McElligott for all their help and gettin me the information i need. Hope this helps..

Mayne Event · 10-22-2005, 07:56 PM

wow. good shit. very helpful. Seriously anytime you ask a question on turboing a 5sfe u get about 20 replys about being a "noob" and "not doing it if u have to ask in the first place" shit like this is very helpful aspecially since I am planning on purchasing a bckup 5sfe and doing some internals PLUS a turbo upgrade. I want no more than 7PSI, maybe more at a later point. I know about engines and turbos to an extent but would like to do a small job to get acustom to the workings of the whole system

vsixcamry · 10-22-2005, 08:02 PM

more coming... and text created the "CGIR153" working on fixing that too.

vsixcamry · 10-22-2005, 08:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mayne Event

wow. good shit. very helpful. Seriously anytime you ask a question on turboing a 5sfe u get about 20 replys about being a "noob" and "not doing it if u have to ask in the first place" shit like this is very helpful aspecially since I am planning on purchasing a bckup 5sfe and doing some internals PLUS a turbo upgrade. I want no more than 7PSI, maybe more at a later point. I know about engines and turbos to an extent but would like to do a small job to get acustom to the workings of the whole system

word, im doing this just for that reason. This gives members something to cite when people ask. This also goes to show that turboing doesnt have to be a high cost budget, i mean you can get this done for around 1000usd.

I hope you go over 7psi with forged internals.. especially after what you fork out for them.

Mayne Event · 10-22-2005, 11:09 PM

I will go higher than 7PSI. Just to start things off with Iwant to start small and work my way up u know?

vsixcamry · 10-26-2005, 06:37 PM

yeah i feel you, stock internals 7psi is prolly the max.. after foeged.. ALOT MORE

pkchi · 10-27-2005, 10:38 PM

really awesome write up and now i am also planning on doing that... thx for sharing the info

TRDCamryCL · 10-27-2005, 10:47 PM

Thanks A Lot! I Need This...

pkchi · 10-27-2005, 10:47 PM

does the mazda mx6 injectors really fit in a 5sfe??

Luckynumber5 · 10-27-2005, 11:07 PM

lots of injectors will fit, you will need to modify the harness clip for them to fit. Make sure they are the proper impedance too.

vsixcamry · 10-30-2005, 09:07 PM

yeah they fir you will need 315-360cc . I recommend the green top supra injectors.

dcarter124 · 10-31-2005, 09:12 AM

nice post!

vsixcamry · 10-31-2005, 08:23 PM

thank ya, took awhile.. should be added to the sticky section i believe

karma · 11-07-2005, 02:45 PM

use the green top supra injectors, hard to find but worth it because less likely to have the unfortunate event of engine bay fire due to faulty wiring, incorrect splicing/soldering, which is all exposed to a hot greasy area like engine bay and only an inch away from a pressurized fuel source. IMHO

vsixcamry · 11-08-2005, 11:01 PM

very true, their becoming not so rare, i run across them on ebay more and more. Which is good, and their is another buisness that has just began producing injectors that are exact to the green tops, ill see if i can find the website.