Here we go.
Take the overhead console down by taking out the screw behind the sunglass holder, then pull down on the front part, near the mirror. It will pop loose.
Then unscrew the temp/compass unit.
Pop the lens off and take it apart
Take the ScanGauge apart by just unscrewing all the screws. Then disconnect the screen from the circuit board by flipping up a little brown lever where the ribbon cable secures to the circuit board. Then you can pull the ribbon out of the connector.
Use a Dremmel with a cut off wheel to grind off this little nub on the lens
It should look like this. Doing this will let the screen sit flat against the lens. Also put a small bead of black silicone adhesive on this edge to hold the screen.
Cut a slot in the side of the lens for the wires to pass through
Make sure the lens and screen is clean and then put it in place.
Black out the surrounding area with some tape. I used
Gaffers Tape. It's like duct tape, except it's easy to work with, and it won't leave sticky residue behind if you peel it off. I used an Exacto knife to make it all fit nice. This step takes some time.
You need this white piece that was inside the ScanGauge. It disperses the light from the LEDs, for the backlit display. It gives it a more even look.
Cut the top tabs off and put some silicone on the top and bottom edges.
Put it in place behind the screen.
Cut the two nubbies off of this piece of the temp/compass case
Next you need to cut the edges of the circuit board, so it will fit in the case. The circuit board has to fit in the case behind the screen because the circuit board has the LEDs on it that light up the screen. I used a Dremmel and cut off wheel. I got close to the circuit traces, but didn't cut 'em. If you do, it's hard to fix.
I cut a piece of ABS plastic to make a base for the Home button.
I drilled an 11/64" hole in it then threaded the switch into the plastic and glued the plate to the case. I used these
switches from Radio Shack. Take the nut and washer off of the switch. Use a pair of pliers to twist the switch into the 11/64" hole. It will thread itself.
Drill holes in this peice. I started with a 1/16" bit and then worked my way up to an 11/64" bit. Then I cleaned up the edges of the holes with an Exacto knife.
So that you can remotely mount the switches you have to extend the connections from the switches on the board. I just soldered right onto the terminals. You only need to solder on one side of the switch. I used 22 gauge wire.
After you have done all the soldering, put some big globs of silicone on the bottom of the circuit board and put the circuit board in place
Drill 4 holes in the lens for the switches to stick through.
Once the silicone has dried and the circuit board is secure, connect the ribbon cable, and run your wires through the slot in the lens. Label which pair of wires goes to which switch. Then snap it all back together.
Next you have to solder the wires to the switches.
I used heat shrink and liquid electrical tape to keep the solder joints well insulated and protected.
Then just screw the temp/compass case back in place. Then remove the A-pillar and run the cable down to the ODB2 plug under the dash. There is just enough cable to make it.
Linear Mode
