How To: Stock HU Color Change

slvrAZtaco · 03-22-2007, 07:37 PM

Ok, here is my write up on how to change the color of your OEM stereo.

Tools needed:
Small sized screwdriver
10mm Socket setup
Soldering Iron
Solder sucker
Solder
Needle nose pliers or tweezers
And of course... new LEDs.

The LEDs I used are a little bit smaller then the OEM LEDs. I used UT-672 LEDs 470nm wavelength. You will need 30 LEDs for the directions below; I would recommend ordering a few extra. If you want to replace the lights near the CD slot or the LCD backlighting then you will need to order more.

***If you do not know how to solder or properly remove soldered components do not attempt this, serious damage could occur. I am not responsible for any damage, you are taking the fate of your stereo into your own hands.***

First you need to remove the stereo, to do this you must remove the climate controls. Insert your small screwdriver under the climate control and pry the lower part outward. Once the lower clips pop, grab the entire unit and carefully pull it straight out (toward you). Once the climate control is out you will see 4 bolts, these bolts are holding the stereo bracket. Remove these 4 bolts using the socket setup, then grab the stereo and pull it straight out (toward you). Once you have the stereo loose there are 4 wires that need to be removed, 3 to the stereo and one for the clock/hazard multiswitch.

Here is the stereo once it is out. Rotate the face of the stereo away from you and remove the two screws on the top cover, and the four screws; two on each side, and the three on the bottom.

Once the screws are removed, carefully pry the top cover up. You do not have to remove it from the face.

Next move the stereo so the face is facing up. Remove the volume and station knobs by pulling them straight away.

Once the knobs are removed you can start to "pry" the face away from the stereo. There are two large clips on the sides and numerous plastic clips along the top and bottom.

When you have all the clips released then you can pull the face away from the unit. There are two electrical connections that will cause some resistance. Also watch the top plate that was released earlier, ensure that it does not drop back down.

Here you can see the two electrical connections

Now set the unit aside and place the face, face down. You will see 9 or 10 screws, remove all of these screws and set them aside.

After you remove the screws you can the pull the PC board away from the face.

You can then locate all the LEDs on the board, they are placed near each button and there are 4 surrounding the volume and station knobs. The LEDs for the LCD screen are under the LCD screen. In order to change these LEDs the entire LCD must be removed. These instructions do not cover the LCD color change.

If the picture is clear enough, you should see the "blue" end of the LED. This is the Cathode side of the LED. All the LEDs are oriented in the same direction, all cathodes are to the right or up depending on where the LED is mounted. There are two LED's that are not the same as all the rest. These can be found on either side of the CD slot. You can probably replace these LEDs as well, but once again I did not feel the need to. They are not normally lit, and only light (green) when you are loading or unloading a CD.

Use your soldering skills to remove the LEDs and solder in the new ones. Fortunately none of the LEDs are glued to the PC board and most can be salvaged, if for some reason you want to keep them. My method is to remove all the solder from both the anode and cathode sides, using the solder sucker. Then using my tweezers I gently pull up on the LED while heating both sides.

Once the LEDs are removed I will then tin each pad and solder in the new LEDs.

Ensure that you have the polarity correct!!! If you have a Digital Multimeter that has a diode test function then you can place the negative probe on the cathode and positive probe on the anode and the LED should still light. Test each LED to ensure that you have not burned any, and that you do not have any cold solder joints.

If you have verified that all your LEDs work then you can reassemble the stereo. Just reverse the directions above.

amp2oo1 · 03-22-2007, 07:45 PM

Nice writeup! Got any details on changing the clock color?

slvrAZtaco · 03-22-2007, 07:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by amp2oo1

Nice writeup! Got any details on changing the clock color?

Not quite yet... still working on that.

tacoma2006 · 03-22-2007, 08:17 PM

now can some one photo shop it white?

theflavor · 03-22-2007, 08:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by amp2oo1

Nice writeup! Got any details on changing the clock color?

It looks like the clock color was changed, mine is red and the pics make it look blue/white

amp2oo1 · 03-22-2007, 08:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theflavor

It looks like the clock color was changed, mine is red and the pics make it look blue/white

uh ya... thats what I asked the question

Jotaro · 03-22-2007, 09:02 PM

awesome

joshua32 · 03-23-2007, 10:34 AM

He had mentioned in one of his other threads that there is a film in front of the clock that gives it the orange color. I am ssuming all he did was remove the film but how hard is it to do it--I have no clue?

1 Question since I am very much the rookie at soldering...How do you tin the pads?

OK 2or3 Questions--What type of soldering iron do you have and where did you get it?

Thanks,
Joshua

tcbrokenwings · 03-23-2007, 03:19 PM

some one needs to try AC CONTROLS!!

Pb · 03-23-2007, 03:23 PM

Nice write up

I'll add it to the DIY sticky.

slvrAZtaco · 03-23-2007, 10:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pb

Nice write up

I'll add it to the DIY sticky.

Cool thanks.

To "tin" the pads you heat them up and add fresh solder to them before you solder the LEDs.

I have a Weller soldering iron, model #WES51 that was purchased at Frys Electronics. I had it set to about 600 degrees (60 on the control). Be careful, you could easily burn the PC board.

The climate control is going to be very difficult, because the plastic is orange. I can make the arrow on the knobs blue as well as the lights inside the A/C and Vent buttons. I think I can make the blue part on the temperature indicator even blue-er.

Removing the coating on the clock is extremely difficult, the plastic is very sensative to chemicals so it is very easy to ruin the plastic. Cheapest I have found the clock/hazard multiswitch is $171 + shipping

.

tacoma2006 · 03-23-2007, 10:25 PM

is any one gonna photoshop into white

Dart4915 · 03-29-2007, 10:51 PM

slvrAZtaco,

I noticed you have the same soldering iron I have. Do you remember the Part # of the tip you used? I was looking at a few of them but thought you would be able to make a suggestion.

Great job, btw. Did you used the 350mcd LED's for the change?

slvrAZtaco · 04-03-2007, 12:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dart4915

slvrAZtaco,

I noticed you have the same soldering iron I have. Do you remember the Part # of the tip you used? I was looking at a few of them but thought you would be able to make a suggestion.

Great job, btw. Did you used the 350mcd LED's for the change?

I just used the tip that came with the iron. It wasn't too big and had a flat that allowed me to "lift" the LED's.

I did use the 350mcd LEDs, 470nm wavelength

slvrAZtaco · 06-04-2007, 10:40 AM

Added pics of an OEM stereo with white leds.

here is another