I have a 2001 ECHO and im thinking of changing to Duracool or Red Tek.
A few years ago, the a/c sucked so much, during the summer it was on max speed & recirculation mode but didn't do much cooling and the windows we're opened to help cool. The buffeting while driving on the highway sure was loud!
Last year, the a/c was a bit more effective but it mainly stayed on recirculation + max fan speed. On occasion, it would actually get cold enough to turn down the fan speed.
Since these two refrigerants have lower pressures, will the compressor not engage because it isn't sensing a high enough pressure?
Will either of the refrigerants actually provide better cooling to the point where I don't have to have the fan on max for most of my trips? Anyone have any personal experiences they'd like to share?
I was told at the Toyota dealership it would cost me just shy of $200 to have the a/c system evacuated. Is that a bend-over price?
I highly doubt that a product like Red Tek would help. Plus, if you do it yourselft, what will you do with the refrigerant already in? Just evacuate it in the atmosphere?
This kind of stuff need to be done with ecologically friendly procedure, knowledge and equipement... Not with a 20$ can and an instruction manuel fool of promises.
Have you taken the echo into an AC shop? Are you low on R-134a??
loose belt? Have the pressure checked in the system and clutch.
Well, I just got an estimate of $24 for an evacuation so it looks like I'll give Duracool a try in a few weeks. The Toyota dealership wanted $200.
I have not had the pressure checked, but, according to the sight glass and the temperatures of the high/low pipes, everything is working fine. The clutch is fine because I can hear the clutch engage and disengage and I replaced the belt last year because of cold/wet weather squeaking.
Well, I just got an estimate of $24 for an evacuation so it looks like I'll give Duracool a try in a few weeks. The Toyota dealership wanted $200.
I have not had the pressure checked, but, according to the sight glass and the temperatures of the high/low pipes, everything is working fine. The clutch is fine because I can hear the clutch engage and disengage and I replaced the belt last year because of cold/wet weather squeaking.
I was exactly in your position, last year before I stored the car, when I put the air-con on, the clutch engaged, but no cold air. so really to evacuate it completely via the dealer is a better route, but remember, no cold air, therefore no more R12 freon left so I based it on that anyways., it must've leaked out slowly. Again, the kit I bought has the DuralSeal stuff so I hope this solves any leaks. Also I heard, from a friend who also used Duracool, and from the Duracool web site that the Duracool products are more dense then regular refrigerants, so hope it to stay in the system longer.
good luck, like to hear of your results, its cold outside now, but when it gets hot, you sure want the air-cond working...I'm still crossing my fingers that it'll stay cold in my car when it heats up outside.
For 40 years all Toyota factory AC systems have been designed to put out 35-42 degree air from the center dash vent (which is cold enough to eventually feel uncomfortably cold). So the first step is to stick a thermometer probe in the center dash vent to check the temperature of the air when the AC controls are set for maximum cooling. My guess is your system is putting out 45 degree air or warmer due to a part defect, part misladjustment, etc. so that's why you sense the cooling is inadequate. The solution is not to treat the sympton of the problem (via a system mod like using an unapproved refrigerant) but trace down and fix the root cause of the problem.
For 40 years all Toyota factory AC systems have been designed to put out 35-42 degree air from the center dash vent (which is cold enough to eventually feel uncomfortably cold). So the first step is to stick a thermometer probe in the center dash vent to check the temperature of the air when the AC controls are set for maximum cooling. My guess is your system is putting out 45 degree air or warmer due to a part defect, part misladjustment, etc. so that's why you sense the cooling is inadequate. The solution is not to treat the sympton of the problem (via a system mod like using an unapproved refrigerant) but trace down and fix the root cause of the problem.
You sure sound like a Dr.
Case in point I completely agree with you 100%, no doubt not to treat the sympton but to fix the root cause is the way to go. But it all depends on each individuals available $$. I will test the temperature when the outside ambient temp gets around 20 C. and provide feedback.
When my Celica's air cond was working at its best, it was significantly cooler air then in my 03 Corolla even in recirculating mode, and thats when the Corolla was new. My opinion R12 systems are still the best. My Celica has been the coldest air I had in a car. Another point is that my Celica is 1985, I don't think I'm willing to shell out major $$s to fix the air. At this point, I'm trying Duracool as a last resort to keep it going knowing that its not a permanent fix. If so, I'm happy, if not, hey, I tried. That goes for everyone out there with older cars. I've never heard of anyone who has a 10+ year old car with a non-function air-cond is willing to dish out $$ to repair it, but then again thats my opinion.
Harv.
Last edited by sleekaman : 05-02-2008 at 02:26 PM.
I had the system evacuated today and I have installed Duracool. It seems to work as well as r-134a and I am waiting for a hot day to test the a/c.
I only got about 3/4 of the refrigerant in with the engine off. I had to start the car and a/c to finish off the can.
I noticed there was a 'hissing' sound inside of the low side hose and hope that may be caused by the refrigerant expanding, not a lack of refrigerant. I can only hear it when I turn the a/c and car off. It takes about 25 seconds for the hissing to stop.
I had the system evacuated today and I have installed Duracool. It seems to work as well as r-134a and I am waiting for a hot day to test the a/c.
I only got about 3/4 of the refrigerant in with the engine off. I had to start the car and a/c to finish off the can.
I noticed there was a 'hissing' sound inside of the low side hose and hope that may be caused by the refrigerant expanding, not a lack of refrigerant. I can only hear it when I turn the a/c and car off. It takes about 25 seconds for the hissing to stop.
The only hissing I got was for a sec, when I disconnected/connected the gauge ....thought that would be normal...but yours should not hiss when you start the air-cond on/off...weird...tell me how cold it gets ...
Question(s) about Duracool and Red Tek
The buffeting while driving on the highway sure was loud!
.
Linear Mode
