(Add/Edit where you see fit, and Please for the love of god Sticky this)
Read this as a genral information guide, its a good starting place, but also do a few serch's with the TN serch tool, try these key workds
5sFTE
5sGTE
that will give you alot of good stuff as well.
Safe Limits on Boost
Im puting this first due to the fact that its a common question.
(No intercooler, and a CT26 Turbo Charger)
4-8PSI is a goo range acording to most people.
(WITH AN Intercooler[stock 3s top mount], CT26)
18PSI max, altho the CT26 will start to run out of breath around 14PSI as it aprotch's this number.
Quote:
Originally posted by MRQturbo
general consensus amongst mr2 owners is that 16psi is the max effeciency range for the stock ct-26.....forged internals are a must if u guys plan to run higher boost....i can't see how the 5SFE can withstand any more than 8psi on the stock motor....
great write up......
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Good To know Q. (information comes out.. thats what i wanted to do with this Post.)
5sFE, 3sGTE info
Allright First you need to understand the S mottor Series
As we Know the 3sG(T)E, and the 5sFE are of the same series of mottors, (the s series) the 5s is a 2.2L, while the 3s is a 2.0L.
this series of mottors came with 2 difrent head desines. the FE and GE. the GE is the "sport preformace" head, while the FE is the econimy head. these 2 heads share the same Exhaust port pattern, but donot share the same intake patter, the GE has 2 belt wheels that drive, 2 independent cams, while the FE has one belt wheel that drives both cams VA transfer gear inside the head. both mount the distributor, on the right side(facing the mottor) and both bolt up to the 's' sries mottors.
a GE head can be interchanged with a FE head, (and Vise Versa) the only problum is the ECU's need to be swaped, or a stand alone be used.
(NOTES: the S serices mottors have some of there own genirations with in there run and as such, an older 5s, might not take the head off of a newer 3s, i dont have the information as to witch ones dont match up, but be aware.
UPDATE: Acording to some new info i got, the parts should be pulled off of a Second Geniration 3sGTE and that older 3sGTE's had difrent bolt count on the exhause mainfold.
)
the 3s is the common turbo mottor, being caled the 3sGTE, this is due to the fact that it use's a GE head with a turbo charger, thus the G T E tag at the end of the 3s.
the turbo system on this mottor is compirsed of the following.
CT26 Twin Entry Toyota Turbo Charger
4 port, tiwn output Turbo Exhause mainfold
Air to Air top mount intercooler
2 Bar MAP senceor.
to Turbo charge any mottor from the S series you need the following, a Exhause mainfold off of a 3sGTE, and a 2BAR Map off of a MR2 Turbo, or Celica Alltrack. (and various other Parts)
the Mainfold will alow you to bolt up a Turbo to the car, and the 2Bar map will let the ECU proporly get information about air Dencity, and preshure alowin the ECU to make the right fuel to air mix.
the Mainfold and 2bar map are the hard parts to get, the rest is up to you.
Now this is where we enter the gray Area.
a 5s can ither be a 5sGTE, or a 5sFTE. as you now know, this is mearly the difrince in heads they use. both will make use of the 2bar map, and the mainfold. the FTE is the common upgrade given the fact that you dont need to swap the head to do it. but the GTE is posible, and also makes more power.
The Turbo
the Turbo you use is all up to you, but the simplest is the CT26 that comes stock on the 3sGTE, they are cheep as far as turbo's go and they work well for low boost aplications.
another turbo you can use is the CT20b, its the JDM turbo that came on 3sGTE's and it blows the door's off the CT26, its a comon MR2 Turbo Upgrade, mostly due to the fact that it bolts right in with no adaptors.
you can use a t3/t4 Hybrid turbo, but for this you will need a flange to adapt the 3s turbo mainfold to take the difrent bolt pattern. these t3/t4 hybrids are good turbos, and make good power, but are not intended to be amazing high preformance drag/race turbos. dont get me wrong, they will make good bost and shure blow you away when you get them under the hood, just dont expect to make 500 HP with them.
Fuel System
Given the fact that this upgrade know's no bounds on how much you want or can spend on it, the fuel system is somthing to take into acount. if your runing low boost (4-8PSI) then you dont realy need to upgrade the injectors on the fuel system, but if you plan on making 300+HP then you will need to look into larger injectors, and a biger fuel pump, other then that if u want more then 400+HP you will have to do your own dam reserch

.
Exhaust and Piping
the Down pip for the turbo needs to be costom fabricated by an exhaust shop, you also need to install a new catilitic converter so that you stay street legal.
the intake piping is also a spot inwitch some costom work needs to be done. silicone and alunimum tubing with pipe clamps are inorder, but you need to decide on an intercooler (or no intercooler) this will afect your piping plans, but all in all you need to look into geting some costom tubing.
Oil Lines
Given the fact that the 3sGTE and the 5s are of the same sieres you can interchange oil pans from them, and to hook up the oil return line for the CT26, you need to ither put a second gen 3sGTE oil pan on the car, or tap a costom oil line onto the stock 5s Pan.
Drive Train Upgrade information
Acording to a handfull of people the Automatic 5s's cant realy take the added power seen in a 5sFTE upgrade. but more over some people might have so much work needed to be done to the over all drive train, that a 3sGTE swap is actualy a better option, this is nothing more then swaping in a 3sGTE mottor for your stock 5sFE, and swaping out all your electronics, and ECU to run the mottor.
Price Guide
Price's are all over the place on doing this upgrade, there is a kit that cost's $2500 that can be found at...
http://www.poweredbytoyota.com/ssfeturbo.html
now this kit is rather "Hassel Free" and alot of what you pay for is the "hassel free" nature of the kit. understand tho its a bair bones kit that dosenot have an intercooler or any bost controlers/turbo timers, or anything to that efect.
the more low cost way to do this is to dig up parts. as such this is an idea on price's for those parts.....
:Used:
Exhaust Mainfold - $40-$50 is a good price for one of these. always get it machined and reserficed before you mount it (then tend to be warp when removed)
:Used:
CT26 - $100 - $300 for $100 you should be geting one in working but "in need of rebiuld" condition, while a $300 one should be in good working condition. (do reserch on used turbos to know how to identify the condition of a turbo)
:Used:
CT20b Turbo $400-$600, these are expensive but well worth it
(serfice the turbo flange on ither turbo when u get them used)
:NEW:
2Bar MAP - $260 pain in the but to find new, but the dealership sells them for 260 somthing. dont waist your time with a used one IMO, just bite the bullet and get the new one.