eDead, Raammat,second skin, dynamat oh my

[cam2Xrunner]

First off I'd like to point out that the peal and seal stuff from Home Depot is pretty thin and has been said that it doesn't stick as well as some of the other products. Also you can get better quality prducts for not too much more money at all, maybe even cheaper.

I was reading a past post that stated peal and seal cost around 12-15 bucks for a 6"x25' roll. Which is about 12 1/2 sq ft. Roughly a dollar per sq. foot.

To get an idea of how much is needed to completely dampen a car take my 99 camry for example. I had 1-2 layers on the entire trunk and trunklid. 1-2 layers on the whole floor, 2 layers on the rear deck. The entire roof was matted, I did have a sunroof, so more required if you dont have a sunroof. The front doors had 2 layers, 3 in some spots. The back doors were also done with 2 layers. The wheel wells were covered as well as the rear d pillar. Now that took a little more than 200 sq ft. Ensolite foam was also used in the doors. And I used the padding that goes under house carpeting to help stop the road noise as well.

Needless to say the car was FULLY dampened, no rattles, the doors felt like Mercedes doors, solid thump. The road noise was lowered considerably. I used raammat60 at the time, which is about the same thickness as Dynamat extreme.

I recomend Raammat60. It is Butyl based as opposed to asphalt which will help withstand higher temperatures, and sticks better. Also doesn't smell bad after a couple of days.

*Raammat60 BXT Some of the best dampening you can buy. Said to be the stickiest and doesn't require heat guns.

www.raamaudio.com


99 bucks for 62.5 sq ft.

Rick offers a Forum discount for 89.00 for 62.5 sq ft

Dynamat and Dynamat Extreme are twice the price of raammat and doesn't perform any better , so I cannot and will not reccomend it.

There are a bunch of other brands out there as well. Such as brownbread, second skin, fatmat, bquiet, cascade, scosche makes some. Most of them are 45 mils thich and the aren't as good as a deal as compared to RAAMmat's 60 mils.

Here's a couple of good links that might help with this topic.
http://www.icixsound.com/vb/article.php?a=1
http://www.cureline.net/lex/audio/howto_mat_install.htm

[cam2Xrunner]

quote:Originally posted by ramaudio
Doing an entire vehicle the way I recommend takes alot of time but worth every single minute to get it right. Normally it takes me 2 full days, 10 hours or so each to take it apart and put it all back together, this is with a huge amount of experience though.

I am fairly anal about it of course, when doing my own rigs I usually take a few more days and go over every wire, cable, any part that can make noise, it can't when I am done

"Here is what I recommend, this is from years of experience and alot of customer feedback, it works very well.

-Front doors, doors with speakers, remove door panel and plastic moisture barier, toss it in the trash.
-One layer of mat on most of the outer door skin, overlap the seems, add two more smaller layers, about 12" sq, behind the speakers. Then the same size piece of close cell foam on top of those layers(ensulite foam is best.
-Check for loose wires, cables, etc, inside the door, secure with foam tape, tie wraps, etc. build up the speaker mounting location by making a solid baffel that you can screw to the door then the speakers to it, MDF works great and easy to work with.
-Seal up the door access holes with a piece of tin, I use perforated aluminum, this gives the next layer of mat something to stick to and tightens up the midbass response.
-Install one layer of mat over the inner door metal, seal all air passages possible, cut the mat back around 1" from edge of door panel.
-Add a layer of 1/8" close cell foam, ensulite again is best but hard to find, to the top of the mat, cut around all mounting points, same for the mat, to make sure the door panel will fit back on ok, cut back around 1/2" from edge of panel.
-Tap on the back of the door panel, being plastic it will have resonate areas. Add patches of mat to those areas until it sounds deadened, usually about 1/4 to 1/3 of the surface is enough, install the panel and test the the door, slam it a few times and listen for rattles, etc.

Rear doors, as the front, if they have speakers in them.
Doors without speakers, just mat the inner door metal, covering the access holes, like above no need to mat the outer door skin.
Rear side panels, outer metal skin, foam, varies from vehicle to vehicle, try to seal up the best you can like the doors.
Rear hatch, same as above.

Floor, One layer everywhere, tap on the floor and add a second and sometims a third layer to the resonate areas only, any more is a waste of mat and effort, once and area is deadened, there is nothing more to gain with adding more mat.
-Some tend to over use the mat in some areas and not enough in others.
-Add a layer of 1/4" close cell foam or two layers of 1/8" then the factory carpet, done!

Notes:

Doors, I usually add a 1" sq steel thin wall tube behind the speaker baffle, mounted diagonally, I use self taping screws to drill through the factory inner door metal and into the tubing. This really stiffens up the speaker mounting area and improves midbass response.

If you want to go all out on the floor, you can add do a layering effect over the really resonate areas of the floor. One layer of mat, a layer of foam, another layer of mat then another layer of foam, only use 1/8" foam so the floor does not get to high for the carpets to fit back in. This method will absorb even more accoustical energy but mainly used for all out comp car installs.

Roof, not usually needed, least results, alot of effort, once the rest is done, test and decide what to do. On a black or very dark vehicle, a tremendous amount of heat build up can occur on the roof, one layer is the maximum I would use the cover it then add a solid layer of close cell foam.

If you have an exceptionally loud exhaust and or tires, they are the worst offenders as they permeate the air around the vehicle and penetrate from many areas. Sometimes they have to be changed no matter how well matted, just want you to be aware of this issue."

The most important part, have fun, really mean that
Rick

[88 LE]

Originally Posted by cam2Xrunner

Dynamat and Dynamat Extreme are twice the price of the previous two products and don't perform any better than them, so I cannot and will not reccomend it.

I don't recommend Dynamat either. The normal Dynamat (Dynamat original) falls off if its used on anything other then a flat surface (ie. floor of a car).

I've used Scosche Accumat and Stinger Roadkill Pro, but that was like 10 yrs. ago.

[cbrjay]

xrunner, great info man.

In the past, I used Hushmat, which IMO, worked a lot better than Dynamat. Haven't had any experience with the other materials.
Offtopic: Do you think the JL 500/1 mono block amp would be sufficient for a single JL 10W6v2 sub? Thanks in advance for any input.

[paradizecityz]

Originally Posted by cam2Xrunner

First off I'd like to point out that the peal and seal stuff from Home Depot is pretty thin and has been said that it doesn't stick as well as some of the other products. Also you can get better quality prducts for not too much more money at all.

I was reading a past post that stated peal and seal cost around 12-15 bucks for a 6"x25' roll. Which is about 12 1/2 sq ft. Roughly a dollar per sq. foot.

hey about that, i use Peal N Seal and i say it works great, I cant say how many rolls of it i used because i had some extra money so i bought extra layers of it, but i remember at first, i had bought 2 rolls and was able to do trunk bottom, trunk lid and the sides
also, the peal n seal does stick for me, its stayed there ever since i put it on and if i wanna take it off or something, its very hard to peal off
this isnt to argue with you about what you put, just an extra opinion from a peal n seal user hehe
i havent tried any other except peal n seal so i stick wit it so far and so far so good, now i have from very little rattle to no rattle at all

ps. great post

[Stealth]

I was already eyeing edead se due to the price, but this makes me like it a lot more now.

[cam2Xrunner]

I'll let you know in 2 weeks if it is any better than the Rammat60, although they have the new BXT stuff out that is supposed to be more flexible than the rammat60.

I was hoping the eDead was free shipping like their other stuff but unfortunately it's not.

[mauibuilt59]

Great info.

I just purchased a roll of Fatmat and installed it on all four doors. I put 2 layers on the front doors and a layer on the rear doors. I dampened the outer door panel, and part of the inner panel where it could be applied. Why did you say that you do not need to mat the outer door panel especially for the rear doors?

I still have half a roll left that will go to lining the trunk and floor and rear deck. But so far, I cant tell the difference in road and exhaust noise. Fatmat was also thinner and lighter than I expected (a bad thing), as compared to dynamat original. I hope I am installing it properly and hopefully the road and exhaust noise will lower considerably after I do the floor and trunk, but I am not going to get my hopes up

[cam2Xrunner]

The second post was Rick McCallums version of how to properly deaden the vehicle.

I like to do a little bit more than that, such as the roof, which I feel is a very important area to dampen. It does help lower road noises as well as stop any rattling/resonance of the panel. My rear door had oneto two layer's on the outer skin, covered in ensolite foam. The inner part of the door where the door panel is against had one to two layers where it overlapped.

I also like to use the paint on deadener on the back of the door panel itself as well.
When you mat the floor and trunk you will notice some road noise lowered. The sound barrier foam helps drown out the road noise frequencies that the matting doesn't block.

Did your door end up like this?

[userlain]

I think I'm going to go eDead v1

thanks for the info cam2xrunner

[cam2Xrunner]

No problem man , post here if you got any ?'s.

[The Wolf]

I've tried the Raamat off ebay, and it works great if it stays in place. I had that stuff in my trunk on the lid and under the rear deck, triple layered. Within 2 weeks 90% had fallen on my trunk floor because the adhesive melted On the other hand, I triple layered the sides of my trunk and that held great. I also cleaned the area before I applied it. I plan to reapply it in a few months when I've got plenty of time to spare, to see if it stays any better.

[cam2Xrunner]

The rear decklid is tricky. In my camry it did the same thing but it was because I didn't clean it off very well beforehand. I pealed off what wasn't sticking and used some diluted simple green and cleaned it like it was brand new. Stuck perfect and held on great after that.

[The Wolf]

I'll have to try some of that. I used some Orange Clean from Wal-Mart.

[mauibuilt59]

My door did not look like that. I just put two layers on the outer door panel. I did not cover the holes because I dont really see how that would help. Seems like it would just be a waste of mat (i dont have too much to work with).