Basic Parts List
- 3S-GTE Exhaust Manifold
- 3S-GTE CT-26 Turbocharger
- 3S-GTE Downpipe
- 3S-GTE Oil Pan and Oil Drain Lines
- 3S-GTE 2 Bar MAP Sensor
- Custom Coolant Lines
- Custom Oil Feed Line and Custom "T" Fitting
- MKIII Supra N/A 7M-GE Fuel Injectors <- The best injector upgrade(330-360cc rating)
- Spark Plugs such as Denso IK22 or NGK BKR7EVX-11 <- These must be regapped to All-Trac gap, which is .030!
Recommended Parts
- Misc Gauges (boost, oil pressure, EGT) <- Allows you to keep an eye on the engine's functions.
- MSD BTM <- the 5S-FE's ECU has a problem with boost and as a result the timing gets all messed up. While you're at it, I would recomend getting the MSD 6a BTM and upgrade your ignition.
- Aftermarket Clutch <- Allows you to get all the power to the ground, where it's suposed to be.
- Intercooler <- Cools the air before entering the throttle body. A must with over 7 psi or so.
- Boost Controller <- You don't want to over boost.
- turbo timer <- Lets your engine keep running after a long drive to allow the oil and turbo to cool properly.
- '98+ Camry Metal Head Gasket
- Camry V6 Tranny(S53) <- Capable of handling a greater amount of horespower than the stock E153 tranny.
- Cooler thermostat <- Allows the stat to open at a cooler temperature.
- A'pexi S-AFC(2)/Greddy E-Manage <- Helps to control the fuel curve.
- ARP head bolts <- Don't want to loose your head.
- LSD(TRD, Kaaz, Cusco or Quaife) <- Allows you to transfer your power to the ground better.
You can also upgrade your internals while you are at it. Forged pistons and rods are a good idea when boosting any N/A car, and are a must if your horsepower goal is much more than 250.
Useful Info to Know
There are 2 kinds of CT-26 turbochargers. The first one came in the ST165(fourth generation All-Trac/GT-Four) Celica(with the 3S-GTE engine) and the MKIII Supra(with the 7M-GTE engine.) This is a single entry turbo. The second type is from the ST185(fourth generation All-Trac/GT-Four) Celica and the MK2 MR2 Turbo(SW20 chassis.) It is a dual entry turbo. The dual entry has a faster and stronger spool. The manifolds from these turbos can not be interchangeable, so if you have a single entry turbo you must use the matching manifold and so on and so forth.
If you're maybe getting parts from a 7M-GE supra, you might want to also take the intercooler. An intercooler is a nice touch for your turbo kit, and you'll just need to get some custom piping done, which should be relatively inexpensive. If you feel like doing it yourself, just get some hose clamps and various U-bends and other pipes. Try to keep your piping about 2 inches in diameter, as this will help for better throttle response.
As far as performence expectations, at about 8 or 9 PSI, your performance should be up to par with a Mustang GT or Eclipse GS-T/Talon TSI, at least at boost on the highway. With this particular turbo setup, you should gain between 9 and 11 hp for each PSI. But along with your custom piping, you're going to want to weld on a flange for a blow-off valve and then add the blow-off valve of your choice. A blow off valve will vent the air between the turbo and the throttle body into the atmosphere when the throttle body is closed, like when you're shifting. If compressed air is trapped because it can't vent into the atmosphere and can't go into the throttle body, it can only go one place...back into the turbo, which can cause compressor surge, which can damage the turbo and keep it from continuing to spool between shifts.
Also, you will need some kind of custom exhaust. You can go with the Greddy SP cat-back system, and it will work with your setup just fine. The diameter of the Greddy SP's piping is optimized for the N/A 5S-FE however, and not for a turbocharged 5S-FE. I would recommend going as high as 3 inches, because back pressure is not a problem on a turbocharged car. I recommend custom piping and a good free-flowing muffler, but make sure you get mandrel bends and not crush bent piping if you want optimal flow.
If you are planning on swapping out your head gasket, make sure you do it right the first time. There is a lot of work tied up in removing the head. Some of the things that have to go are the alternator, all coolant lines(Drain the coolant of course, Toyota uses the red kind so dont fret over it not being green.), the wiring harness and all nesessary plugs, vacuum hoses, and wires. The '98+ Camry head gasket is metal, but from what I hear from my guys at Toyota, all replacement head gaskets are metal now. Be sure you have a Chilton's or Toyota hand book on hand at all times. Get your head milled once you have it removed, because it should only be $20 to $40. Due to heat reasons, there is a good chance it will be warped a bit, but be sure not to mill more than 20/1000 or the head will not seal. When re-installing the head, the torque is 36 lbs. + a 90 degree turn, this should be made by 1 full rotation of 45 degree turns and then another 45 degrees.
Basic Installation
First drain the oil pan. Assuming you have a aftermarket intake, remove it now. If you cannot figure that out please turn back from this project! While the oil pan is draining, remove the 6 14mm nuts holding the exhaust manifold on the head and the 3 14mm nuts holding the header to the exhaust.
Now that that is done, your pan should be empty, so remove the oil pan and its 15 10mm bolts (2 are nuts.) To get the oil pan off you first have to unbolt the tranny heat shield that is in the way and the front motor mount. You have to push down very hard on the support the mount was once attached to to get the pan out. You'll undertstand this once you see it. Now place the 3S-GTE oil pan in its place in the reverse order. Next, Remove the valve cover by pulling the 4 spark plug wires and removing the 4 30mm nuts holding the valve cover down. Tap the cover with a rubber mallet if needed to break the seal. Now you can the see the injectors and fuel rail behind the head. Unsnap the plugs and remove the 2 bolts holding the rail in place. Install the 7M-GE injectors in the rail and back into the head. Replace the 2 bolts and torque them down to 9lbs. Reinstall the valve cover and install your new spark plugs and torque them down to 12lbs. Be sure you have gapped them to .030! If you fail to do so your engine will detonate at exactly 5 pounds of boost!
This is a good time for a break..... Sit back and have a beer knowing that you are that much closer to boost than before.
Ok back to the car.
Now take the 3S-GTE exhaust manifold and the turbo and bolt them together using the 4 14mm nuts to hold it to the studs. Use the needed gaskets here. If you plan on using the coolant lines to the turbo you will need to tap into the the Throttle body heating lines. Look under the throttle body for the 2 3/8in coolant lines and use brass Ts here with hose clamps. Run the lines to the area that the turbo sits keeping them away from any high heat items. Install both the coolant lines and both oil lines to the turbo now using the correct gaskets. There is a round gray colored metal sensor with one wire and a rubber cover. You need to un-hook this wire and remove the sensor using a pair of channel locs. Take this sensor to the auto parts store and get the following items.
You'll need 1 T fitting with a male end the same thread as the sensor. The other 2 holes in the T don't matter, get an adaptor that will place the oil pressure sending unit in one of these holes. Take the assembly home and teflon tape all the fittings and install it in to the head. This is how you will feed fresh oil to the turbo. Place the new exhaust gasket on the 6 studs protruding from the head and now place the turbo/manifold assembly on the studs for installation. I had a problem with hitting one of the radiator fan support pieces here but an exacto knife took care of that. Using the 6 14mm nuts removed from the stock exhaust manifold, bolt up the 3S-GTE manifold. Hook up the oil suply line and coolant lines but leave the return line off for the moment. Now install the stock 3S-GTE downpipe with the correct gasket and 3 14mm nuts. I am using a KO racing DP here and have run into problems hitting the right side of the A/C lines. Nothing a little light welding can't fix. At the passenger side firewall there is a small black sensor with a vacuum line running to it. Remove it and install your 2 bar MAP sensor(part# 84420-17030) there.
Now its time to prime the engine. Locate the coil wire going to the cap and remove it. Double check all things are tight, nothing is in the way, and nothing will suck into the turbo. Just pay close attention to everything. Crank the car over for 1-2 minutes. Get out and see if oil has dripped from the turbo drain line. If not, keep cranking until it does. Once you have oiled the turbo you can install the rubber elbow from the drain tube to the oil pan and reinstall the coil wire. Install whatever intake plumbing you want now and the intercooler and blow-off valve of your choice.
Once you have everything on the way you want it check to be sure everything is tight and start the car. Let it idle for a bit to reach normal temperature. Shut the car off and double check that everything is ok. Now get out your timing light and set your timing to 8 degrees (10 is stock.)
Now go take a few low boost test drives to be sure of your work and then your are free to go burn some Mustangs and Camaros for bragging rights.
How to turbo your 5sfe
Linear Mode
