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Highlander 1st Gen - Hybrid (XU20/2005-2007) Toyota Highlander Hybrid discussion for years 2005-2007.

 
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post #1 of 10 Old 03-09-2017, 07:46 AM Thread Starter
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Cvt adjustable?

My engine RPMs seemed to be gone up. My bad mileage from 21mpg overall went to 17mpg overall. The wife says that the driving sound from the CVT seems louder which agree with.
As we all know you can't check fluid but can a transmission shop (not the T dealer) service these transmissions?
Can you change the computer to have the car run at a lower RPM at the same speed?
It seems that the CVT is not running high up enough on the "V" causing my car to run at higher rpms using more gas. I wish we had a true RPM gauge instead of that stupid 0-100 gauge which doesn't tell you much.
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post #2 of 10 Old 03-09-2017, 09:05 PM
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You won't be adjusting RPM of the engine, that's in the ECM and totally offlimits to all but toyota's engineers.

Have you had any work done recently that could have added friction to the drive line (brakes for example)? If they are sticking, it'll make the engine work harder.

List of Mods ---->>> 2008 FWD Highlander Limited
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post #3 of 10 Old 03-09-2017, 10:05 PM
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No, you can not check fluid level and you have no CVT and it is not serviceable.
But you can rather easily do PSD - Power Split Device - fluid change. Won't hurt.
Otherwise, EVERYTHING in that car is drive by wire and ECU controlled.
My wild guess is you have air leak somewhere, causing higher RPM when ICE operates.



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post #4 of 10 Old 04-27-2017, 06:14 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ukrkoz View Post
But you can rather easily do PSD - Power Split Device - fluid change. Won't hurt.
ukrkoz
Thank you thank you for your tip about the PSD fluid change. It immediately made a change my mileage went up to what it was in the old days. I blamed my original drop on the PCM recall and after a year fighting with Toyota about my bad mileage gave up on that and excepted the comfy ride and standard (or less) Highlander mileage.
I just returned from a week vacation having driven over 2,000 miles city, highway(80 mph), back roads, stop and go, and averaged 25.6 mpg.
i.e. back to normal for a 140,000 miles old 2006 HHL
Again thank you and I don't understand why the dealer, the Toyota regional Rep, and Toyota headquarters never told me to try that after my many complaints about the mileage suddenly dropping.
Looking at the phone app 'FuelLog' I use, my April average is 6.5 mpg better than my March average was.
I'm driving an Hybrid again.
Thanks
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post #5 of 10 Old 04-27-2017, 10:37 AM
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Khool.
I do ATF change in PSD every 50 000 miles just for the heck of it. Not much of a job to do but puts me at ease.
So you had to have spark plugs done at 100 000 (btw, it can be done in about 40 minutes WITHOUT cowl and air intake removal) and other than that, front differential fluid needs to be done also.
Mid July to August, your mpg will spike to its best.
Enjoy the car.



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post #6 of 10 Old 04-27-2017, 11:26 AM Thread Starter
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I have done all the recommended (in owners manual) maintenance plus the regular brake and tire changes/alignments, etc..
The dealer said I did need the cooling flushed/changed for hybrid battery pack, but after a $1,200 repair bill for rear wheel bearing and rear differential fluid change last week, I have to wait a month or so before doing that. ($280 far that)
Last but not least I have a rear bearing seal leak (leaks a couple of drops a day) but I drive 8,000 miles between Mobil 1 full syn oil changes and my oil is never registering low so that is not a $1,600 repair I'm going to do.
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post #7 of 10 Old 04-27-2017, 09:57 PM
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Rear bearing? You confuse me. Which one is rear bearing? Rear main seal?



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post #8 of 10 Old 04-27-2017, 09:58 PM
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post #9 of 10 Old 04-28-2017, 08:49 AM Thread Starter
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Sorry to confuse you

Quote:
Originally Posted by ukrkoz View Post
Rear bearing? You confuse me. Which one is rear bearing? Rear main seal?
The right rear WHEEL bearing went out causing vibration thru the complete car and I also had a left front wheel bearing replaced late last year which was bad and that was the one they replaced under warranty this time(5 month later) too. The rear wheel bearing repair and the trans-axle flush/change was $1,195.00 hence my comment. The warranty shop order I signed for the front bearing was $224.00
And yes I have a slight drip from rear ENGINE seal but not enough to lower my oil pan level.

Last edited by EJO; 04-28-2017 at 08:57 AM.
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post #10 of 10 Old 04-28-2017, 05:09 PM
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Gotcha. So you have leaking rear main seal and bad hub bearing in the rear. As hub bearing have no liquid in them, so they can't leak. Drip.
Wow. That was one hell of green wind into dealer sales for rear end job. That "transaxle" flush is drain and fill with 2.4 qrt of ATF and requires NO flush possible as it is simply smaller version of PSD in the front. Rear hub bearing is about $200 and about 30-40 minute job for DIY guy.
Wow.



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