2012 Highlander Hybrid engine mounts replaCEMENT
Ok, I DIY-d all engine mounts.
Looking at the diagram attached, I did # 9, 6, 1, 3 and 7. 3 and 9 are torque mounts, they basiclaly reduce engine back fore play during acceleration and braking.
6, 1 and 7 are mounts, or insulators, proper.
1. torque mount # 9, aka dog bone. That is the biggest headache on this engine as it is covered by brake fluid canister. Canister sits atop of a bracket, held in place with 2 10mm nuts. When nuts are removed, unplug and disconnect fluid sensor harness and pull sensor out of the canister. Now, with slight resistance, it can be scooted away to open access to dog bone vertical, rear, bolt and to allow to get to bracket itslef 2 x 12mm nuts holding it in place to frame. One of those bolts, front one, is Ok to get to, but takes some contortion of hand to remove it off the stud and not to lose. Really scooting canister out of way and tilting it helps. The rearmost 12mm nut is pretty much covered by cowl. So either remove cowl or use flex head box wrench and same trick at the end - scoot and tilt canister and gently undo nut without loosing it.
Pull engine negative connectors out of the bracket side. I simply used needle nose plyers and yanked them - 2 - out. Take bracket out. Undo vertical dog bone bolt and take it out.
You will not be able to remove horizontal dog bone bolt as is. It hits brake actuator block and that's it. Hence, you need to remove entire bracket dog bone is connected to and then undo that bolt.
Bracket is #10 on diagram. It is connected to block with 4x15mm bolts. rear one is short, one in the "hump" is longest, 2 in the front are long same length. Rear bolt is also securing a short bracket with 2 x 10mm nuts on the opposite side. Undo those and remove bracket.
In front of the dog bone engine bracket there is thick grey wand of wires. held in place by round plastic clip. Undo clip, slide harness out and towards radiator.
Undo all bolts and slide dog bone forward then up and out, still connected to the bracket. In my case, rear, horizontal end of it was loose. I could move it by fingers.
Remove front bolt, install new dog bone on, reinstall everything.
At this point, you need to make 2 decisions: - are you replacing lower mounts? - do you want engine leaning forward or rearward?, as engine bracket is slotted where bolts go in, so you can actually tilt engine a bit either way and then lock it in place.
If you were only to replace the dog bone, then reverse removal and tighten bolts with engine pushed or pulled whichever way you want to. I have no advice there.
If you were to replace lower mounts, feed bolts in but do NOT tighten them as you will need to move engine up for lower mounts replacement. Basically, dog bone will be the only mount securing engine in place then.
2. Lower engine torque mount. #3. Remove passenger side wheel. It's right there, easy access. Remove dust caps for bracket 4 bolts in subframe. 14mm nuts. Remove nuts, remove nuts holding #5 to the engine block, remove entire assembly. Remove center bolt on #3 and install new one. As, after replacement, holes on engine block will be not coinciding with holes on #5, due to #3 being new, get jack under the engine and slightly jack it up, so that holes match. Reinstall all engine bolts and tighten. If you are removing other lower mounts, do not tighten #4 to the frame nuts. Just let studs sit in there. In my case, #3 was totally loose.
3. #6, 1 and 7. I had car up on lift, that helps a lot.
#1 has stud at the top going through engine block bracket into the mount. You will need a LONG extension to get to it from the top. It is rather hard to do anything from the bottom with it.
To remove it from the top, you have to remove air intake plastic piece connected to the radiator frame. Pop plastic clips on the driver side of plastic radiator cover. Access 2 10mm bolts holding intake in place. Remove intake. Radiator hose, partially covering top mount stud, can easily be moved to the side for access.
Remove plastic belly cover. All connections are 10mm heads. 2 front corner ones are screws.
Remove dust cap on one of the mount studs in subframe. Mount direction is marked with green dot forward.
Undo top mount stud. Undo 3 bottom 14mm nuts.
Remove both front wheels or, in case you had passenger side removed for #3, remove driver side one.
4. Side mounts. Driver side one, #7, has some sort of counterweight or balancer limiting access to upper 19mm nut. Remove its center 12mm bolt. Take it out. Remove top mount nut. From the subframe, remove 2 dust caps for studs. Remove all 17mm stud nuts.
Passenger side. Remove 19mm top nut, pop dust caps in the subframe, remove all lower 17mm nuts.
5. Take hydraulic jack and place piece of wood, 4x4 works best, on its plate. Move that plate so that it gets under solid transmission ridge, right next to the exhaust flange. 4x4 fits in there neatly.
6. Slowly start raising power train up. It will go up only so much. Eventually, throttle body air intake hits cowl and firewall and you can't move it any higher. Hence, watch the vehicle itself. If you start noticing that vehicle starts moving up - stop immediately! Or, it can come off lift or jackstands you have it on.
But, at this point, all mounts studs and bolts should be cleared enough to permit mounts removal. Driver and passenger side ones I pulled up and twisted out so that lower studs cleared frame, then pulled upper studs out of the brackets. Front mount went up, studs cleared frame, then I laid it horizontal and slid out towards the driver side, that way and down. There is enough opening to do so.
As where you have jack connected is not really center of the engine, it tilts towards the passenger side some. You may not have enough clearance for the passenger side mount to come out. Hence, reinstall driver side and front mounts. LOwer engine. Take wide board and slide jack under the oil pan. Jack engine up there, as then it lifts passenger side higher. Remove passenger side mount and reinstall new
7. Do not tighten front mount lower nuts until you managed to place upper mount stud in place. This requires some mount wiggling here and there, to match the hole. Do that, tighten top stud.
8. Lower engine completely.
9. Reinstall all nuts and tighten them. Place dust covers back in place.
10. If you left dog bone loose, now is time to finish its install.
You are done. About 2 hrs slow pace no rush job.
ALL OF MY MOUNTS were loose or very loose at 94 000 miles.