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Camry 1st & 2nd Gen (1983-1986) & (1987-1991) Toyota Camry Discussion for years 1983-1986 & 1987-1991. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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post #16 of 82 Old 05-23-2018, 11:16 PM
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Good job! Hopefully all that fixed the problems.

Way I like to test for leaks is to plug exhaust pipe. Then pressurize intake to 2-3psi. Then squirt soapy water at all joints and clamps of intake-tract all way to block. Bubbles fizz out where there's leak.
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post #17 of 82 Old 05-24-2018, 03:41 AM Thread Starter
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Hopefully! Just made my weekly commute to Pasadena and back so hopefully I'm good for now.

As for the air I might try that since I at least have an air compressor haha.

1990 Toyota Camry LE (150,000 miles)
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post #18 of 82 Old 05-24-2018, 08:52 AM
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Haha, I was just in Pasadena couple weeks ago!
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post #19 of 82 Old 05-24-2018, 12:02 PM Thread Starter
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Pasadena and the surrounding cities seem to be a hot spot for Toyotas. Ive seen more gen 1s in Pasadena, Arcadia, and rosemead than anywhere else! Could've just been luck though haha.
Nice area over there, Pasadena has a small robot comics convention bi-annually too. Fun place

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post #20 of 82 Old 05-24-2018, 12:37 PM
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I make near daily trips to Pasadena! Or, rather, out of Pasadena.

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post #21 of 82 Old 05-26-2018, 03:41 PM Thread Starter
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The freeways are always jam packed loool, i always see a huge line to go to the 710 as well as the 10 depending where I'm going.

Small question, can a high idle result from cleaning the throttle body? I'm still struggling to find the cause of my above average idle. I tested all the hoses I could individually as well as altogether (soap water individually and propane for altogether) for vacuum leaks and all seemed good..
Could fixing my exhaust leak + cleaning my slightly gunked TB cause the idle to jump like 200rpm in park/ neutral?

I'll keep testing in the mean time and hopefully all ends well haha.

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post #22 of 82 Old 05-26-2018, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
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Still failed low speed NOx though, not sure why the levels are so absurdly high.

Update
EGR vacuum modulator was no good so I replaced that and it helped with my idle a bit. I wonder if that was giving me the high nox on the 15mph test...the absurd high nox wouldn't be a catalytic converter issue no? Since it's so low on the 25mph test.
Any ideas would be appreciated aha..
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post #23 of 82 Old 05-27-2018, 03:02 AM
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EGR reduces combustion temperatures which will cut NOx production - I could definitely see that making a difference.

The cat affects NOx emissions as well, but I'd imagine you'd have elevated levels of all three types of emissions if you had problems with your cat.

1988 Camry Alltrac LE 5speed
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post #24 of 82 Old 05-28-2018, 05:00 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah so I'm hoping the vacuum modulator being faulty was affecting in some way, but I can't see it affecting it by a factor of 500..maybe though.
I'm just trying to find a cheaper smog place that also gives free retesting on failure lol..so far only Culver City.

Might try changing the fuel filter since I have some weird hesitation/ hunting and bogging occurring in low rpm in 1st and second gear when accelerating. Probably about time too since I think it's the factory fuel filter.

Sometimes I wish California emissions laws were just a tad bit more lenient though.

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post #25 of 82 Old 05-29-2018, 01:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WaveSurfer View Post
Yeah so I'm hoping the vacuum modulator being faulty was affecting in some way, but I can't see it affecting it by a factor of 500..maybe though.
I'm just trying to find a cheaper smog place that also gives free retesting on failure lol..so far only Culver City.

Might try changing the fuel filter since I have some weird hesitation/ hunting and bogging occurring in low rpm in 1st and second gear when accelerating. Probably about time too since I think it's the factory fuel filter.

Sometimes I wish California emissions laws were just a tad bit more lenient though.
EGR is there SPECIFICALLY to lower NOx emissions. That very well could be the issue there.

For the hesitation, it is probably the ignition coil. It is inside the distributor and often cracks, causing a weak spark.

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post #26 of 82 Old 05-29-2018, 02:16 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by white90dx View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by WaveSurfer View Post
Yeah so I'm hoping the vacuum modulator being faulty was affecting in some way, but I can't see it affecting it by a factor of 500..maybe though.
I'm just trying to find a cheaper smog place that also gives free retesting on failure lol..so far only Culver City.

Might try changing the fuel filter since I have some weird hesitation/ hunting and bogging occurring in low rpm in 1st and second gear when accelerating. Probably about time too since I think it's the factory fuel filter.

Sometimes I wish California emissions laws were just a tad bit more lenient though.
EGR is there SPECIFICALLY to lower NOx emissions. That very well could be the issue there.

For the hesitation, it is probably the ignition coil. It is inside the distributor and often cracks, causing a weak spark.

-Charlie
Oh okay hopefully all is good then as far as emissions.

As for the coil I actually had it replaced about a month ago when I had brought my car in for annual tune-up. My uncle said it was broken and was surprised my car started lol! But I had it replaced with along with my distributor, plugs and wires, main seals and t-belt.
If it was an ignition coil I'd be very surprised as it's been only a month since it's been replaced.

I should mention its not bad hesitation (usually when engine is cold and only in low/ first) and the hunting/ surging is more common, which occurs when accelerating and the car is in second usually.
The rpms jump around by about 200 or so. This is when the engine is still not fully warmed up, when it is warm it's still there but less noticeable.

1990 Toyota Camry LE (150,000 miles)

Last edited by WaveSurfer; 05-29-2018 at 02:31 PM.
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post #27 of 82 Old 05-31-2018, 11:21 PM Thread Starter
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Changed the fuel filter for good measure but haven't driven it yet. I cracked the top bolt with the longest thing I had (an old torque wrench) and it came off easy peasy.

The bottom fitting was a whole different monster. Lord have mercy. I soaked that sucker in penetrating fluid and struggled for an hour whilst stripping the crap out of it lol. Finally got it off with vice grips, wish I tried that first. Had to cut a small portion of the fuel line (just where it's flared) and replace the fitting, then reflare. I'm guessing the fuel filter was the original one since it was so dang stuck.

The last thing that gave me that much trouble was the manifold bolts about a year ago...rust is terrible..

Now going to hopefully give smog another shot this weekend when there's time.

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post #28 of 82 Old 06-01-2018, 11:24 PM Thread Starter
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Went for a drive finally, and there is still some hesitation/ surging but a lot less than before. It's mostly when pushing the pedal around 30 - 40% and I haven't experienced it from 50% - wot. Mostly it's when the car is from a cold start (and first maybe 5 minutes of driving) and in 1st & 2nd.
I'll keep the ignition coil in mind but it's only a 2 month old oem so I'd still be surprised.

Besides that could it be a small air leak on the intake hose/ snorkel?

I think everything is in fairly optimal condition seeing as a fair amount of parts have been replaced/ serviced recently and I've both used seafoamed and fuel cleaner semi recently. But Im fairly satisfied with the results from changing the fuel filter (my idle fixed surprisingly, and less hesitation/ surging), and the problems left are things I can live with but I'd still like to get to them eventually.

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post #29 of 82 Old 06-06-2018, 10:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WaveSurfer View Post
mostly when pushing the pedal around 30 - 40% and I haven't experienced it from 50% - wot.
Sounds like it could be a dirty/worn tps.
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post #30 of 82 Old 06-07-2018, 05:24 PM Thread Starter
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Well today was up and down lol. CEL came back on after about 500-600 miles and threw a code 26 again. I'll clean the tps a little better again and I noticed cracks in the intake snorkel forming so I'll probably ghetto patch those for now until I get a new one.
Checked the voltages for the O2 sensor and I got readings all over the place.
Using the dlc1 port I got .040 v
Checking o2 sensor connector to battery ground I got .125 v
And checking the ecu side wire I got -.1v
These are prob just saying the car is running rich though.
Not sure what else to do at this point.
I'm not super mechanically inclined (I'm an artist lol) but I feel like I've checked and fixed as much as I could.
-cleaned TB 3(?) Times
-lightly cleaned tps
-checked for vac leaks (tho the new big crack on intake snorkel is a concern now)
-cleaned egr valve
-replaced EGR modulator
-replaced broken O2 sensor (I've been using universal ones due to space but I'm confident the wires are connected good)
-lastly I did run a bottle of gumout regane recently

Not sure what my options are, just thinking about taking it for a tune up when I get my tires aligned to see if the techs can figure it out since the tool access is much broader than mine.

Thanks for all the help everyone though it's been quite a good learning process. Any further help would still be appreciated 🙂

1990 Toyota Camry LE (150,000 miles)
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