Rack & pinion and 2 Axels Replaced! - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
Camry 3rd & 4th Gen (1992-1996 & 1997-2001)/1st Gen Solara (1999-2003) Toyota Camry Discussion for years 1992-1996 & 1997-2001, as well as Solara discussion for years 1999-2003. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 17 Old 11-20-2005, 11:35 PM Thread Starter
V8'sRGone
 
73sport's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: OR
Posts: 1,956
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 24
Thanked 208 Times in 164 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
(Thread Starter)
3rd Generation Rack & pinion and 2 Axels Replaced!

All,
Just wanted to add my 2 cents to the service manual just in case you decide to knock it out yourself.
Ride: 95 Camry V6 Auto leaking from the rack boots at 152K. Fluid is clean and near bright red in color. Car is used and history is ???? I am not replacing the pump or lines. In fact I had flushed them days after I got the car. I highly recommend flushing the old system before installing a new rack so keep it free of contamination if the old one had debris or bad fluid in it.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Here are a couple of things I did different to get the rack out and get it back with out messing around inside the car, screaming profanties or bleeding under the car......

Lowering the back of the engine cradle ~3/4" / 20mm allows easy access to the sway bar bolts. I think it made the job much easier and highly recomend doing this. Below you will also find a quick method to dial in the new rack so the Toe-In is back the way it was (or pretty darn close and your steering wheel is straight) so you don't have to run immediately to the alignment shop.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

1) Before you jack it up, pull the rear O2 sensor, remove the PS hose support at back of intake plenum.
2) Jack it up and support body (not engine cradle), pull wheels off.
3) Position the steering wheel straight and centered. Secure with seat belt.
4) With a 24" extension and a wobble, remove the pinch bolt at the steering column coupler. Turn the wheel to the 11:00 o'clock position if you don't have a wobble.
5) Remove 4 10mm bolts holding the rear fender apron at the bottom (both sides).
6) Pull apron down and Remove the 14mm bolt & 14mm nut connecting the body to the cradle under the apron and loosen the 19mm bolts holding the cradle. Do this on both sides.
*** NOTE *** Support the cradle in case you run the bolts out of threads and drop the cradle. There is approx 20mm of threads before it departs - BE CAREFUL -
7) Remove the 4 12mm bolts holding the swaybar to the cradle. I also removed the 2 14mm bolts holding the swaybar ends to the lower control arms.
8) Remove the line set and plug the top line with a Golf "T" to keep the mess smaller.
9) Remove the 12mm bolt supporting the lines (right side).
10) With a 19mm wrench, break the tie-rod adjusting nuts loose. Seat them back on the tie-rod end gently.
11) Remove the cotter pin. Loosen the tie-rod end castle nuts (17mm). If you don't have a puller, no worries IF YOU CAN HIT WHERE YOU AIM! With a 16oz hammer take 2-3 good wacks at the End Of the Steering Arm knuckle where the ball stud pokes through with its nut. I AM NOT SAYING "POUND on the THREADS!"
** Hiting the castings end will momentarily distort the tapered hole and drop the tie-rod end. ** Mine popped easy. 2 swings each -- one to aim, one to smack it. NEVER use a pickle fork unless you want to buy new joints!
12) Remove the 19mm bolts holding the rack in. Yes, the factory tightened them REAL GOOD. Don't slip!
13) Twist pull and slide the leaky old rack out.

14) Center the rack, Turn input shaft all the way one direction. Count back 1.5 turns. This is center, although yours may vary. If uncertain, turn the rack all the way left. Turn it all the way right while carefully counting the turns until it stops. Divide the count by 2. Turn your rack back to the number you just solved. This is center. The rack WILL pump fluid out when turned. Capture it or play in the mess!

15) Align the tie rods so the whole rack assembly is straight to the eye with the ball joints pointing at the ground.
using a CARPENTERS SQUARE and a felt pin align the square to the inside of the Jamb nut and the ground and draw a line on the ground. DO NOT MOVE THE RACK.
With the square, align it to one of the tubes feeding the rack piston. Draw a line on the ground. Go to the other end of the rack and place the square against the jamb nut. Draw a line on the ground. The square helps so you are not guessing about "where the parts are in relation to the ground". A solid cardboard box would work in a pinch.

These three lines now represent your vehicles "TOE-IN" and the basic position of the rack since you centered it and made a reference line to the rack body. I suggest you move the old rack, realign it too the marks and see if all three marks still line up (repeatability test). If so, good job, move on.....

NOTE: If installing new t/r ends and nuts, do some measuring and see if the parts are identical. If they are different it will change your toe-in!

16) Pull the the tie-rod ends and jamb nuts from the old rack.
- Center your new rack (1.5 turns from full lock).
- Install the jamb nuts and tie-rod ends on the new rack.
- Align the rack body to the marks on the floor.
- Adjust the jamb nuts to the lines on the floor, install t/r ends and snug the nuts.
- This should place the toe-in back very close to where it was. It is the total distance between the jamb nuts that determines toe. The posistion of the rack is to help get your steering wheel straight up and down.
- >You should still have the toe and alignment checked at the shop.

Reverse all the them steps and youl'l be back in business. Follow all the flushing and purging instructions to bleed the system. Hint, WHEN you fire the engine off the resorvoir will be sucked dry instantly! Turn the engine off NOW to prevent pushing air into the system. OR if you have a helper, have them fill the reservoir as the pump sucks it in. Never whip the wheel from side to side. Move it slow until the resorvoir is full and not showing bubbles! Let it sit if you have to and the Air will rise to the top.

Good Luck,

/randy



PS - It took longer to clean up the mess from the torn axel boots and leaky rack than it did to do the work.

MAJOR GRIPE: WHAT were they thinking when they put the Oil Filter on its side above the mtr mount and exhaust?! DORKS!

Its time for some of these.....


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
(((( EDIT Safety Note: )))))
One thing I should add to the post is to clarify why I tied the steering wheel in place with the seat belt. Some cars can be damaged by removing the rack gear which could allow the steering wheel to spin freely. Now I'm not sure HOW Toyota couples the AIR BAG hot wires through the steering column, but I figure an once of prevention. . . . Please read on for your safety!

If they used slip rings to energize the air bag, no big deal. Spin it. It should be fine. If they used a wound wire, you can damage it. Even turning it one full revolution from center could cause a latent failure.
Not that anyone has a need to do such a thing, but if you do, it could damage or disable the AIRBAG deployment mechanism. I suggest you tie it in place while centered.

** NEVER back off a castle nut to insert the cotter pin. Tighten it to the next notch forward! **
This is the steering, double check your work and tighten everything as tight as it was. You don't want it to come apart later while driving!
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------



Tags:
1995 Carmy V6 1MZ-FE, Rack and Pinion, short rack, long rack, axle, half shaft, CV joint, power steering, wheel alignment, toe-in, toe in


95 Cam, V6 1MZ, Auto A541E, LE >245,000 miles!

Last edited by 73sport; 08-04-2010 at 03:28 PM. Reason: Safety Notes:
73sport is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 17 Old 11-21-2005, 11:30 AM
Official TN Member
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Miami, Fl
Posts: 172
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Nice write up and welcome to the boards! (8 post)

Got CAI? Check out my custom CAI! Click here
Brujo is offline  
post #3 of 17 Old 11-26-2005, 05:03 PM Thread Starter
V8'sRGone
 
73sport's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: OR
Posts: 1,956
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 24
Thanked 208 Times in 164 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
(Thread Starter)
All is Good after Rack Install

After all is said and done the steering wheel is straight up, just like it was before I started.
After the new wheels, Alignment was checked and all is Good. No Toe Adjust or anything!

Hence, with the money I saved doing it myself - the wheels were FREE!

/Randy

TSW Valcano's 17" X 7" +38mm offset with 225 50R17's....



95 Cam, V6 1MZ, Auto A541E, LE >245,000 miles!

Last edited by 73sport; 01-29-2010 at 11:35 AM.
73sport is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 17 Old 11-26-2005, 10:55 PM
TN Pussy Man
 
Eye8Pussies's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: GTA (III)
Posts: 13,302
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 16
Thanked 180 Times in 114 Posts
Lifetime Supreme Member
iTrader Score: 13 reviews
nice rims, and great write-up

HaHa

__________________

"Life is a deep sleep, of which love is the dream..."
Ripped...and the girls are loving it.
Eye8Pussies is offline  
post #5 of 17 Old 11-27-2005, 12:51 PM
Official TN Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: N. KY
Posts: 412
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Pretty informative. I say this should be pinned or kept somewhere under a FAQ
Kevs Toy is offline  
post #6 of 17 Old 01-19-2006, 04:31 PM
Custom Pimpin'
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: austin,TX
Posts: 65
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
how easy is it to do rack bushings?

94LE Camry Inline-4
camrykidd86 is offline  
post #7 of 17 Old 01-21-2006, 10:28 PM Thread Starter
V8'sRGone
 
73sport's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: OR
Posts: 1,956
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 24
Thanked 208 Times in 164 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
(Thread Starter)
3rd Generation Do you have the tools?

camrykidd86,
looks like your in for the same amount of work. Unless your doing it for a urethane upgrade I would leave it alone. If there soaked in oil and shot, where did the oil come from?

One problem you may face is spreading the clamp if you try to do it in the car without pulling the rack. I suppose it could be done, but it might be just as easy to pull it out and replace the whole thing for $175 bucks for a remanufactured long rack.


Good luck,

Randy


95 Cam, V6 1MZ, Auto A541E, LE >245,000 miles!
73sport is offline  
post #8 of 17 Old 01-30-2010, 09:31 PM
Senior TN Member
 
Nervous's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: USA, MD
Posts: 1,128
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Thanks: 280
Thanked 118 Times in 76 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
In addition to 73sport's perfect writeup - here is mine experience with pics:
https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=329597

(just to maintain cross-referencing).
Nervous is offline  
post #9 of 17 Old 04-29-2010, 12:09 PM Thread Starter
V8'sRGone
 
73sport's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: OR
Posts: 1,956
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 24
Thanked 208 Times in 164 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
(Thread Starter)
Ya get what ya pay for . . . aftermarket parts

Ya get what ya pay for . . . aftermarket parts
In November of 2005 I put a long rack in the 1995 Camry which had about 150k miles on it then. (A long rack is a complete rack and pinion assembly with the inner tie rods installed). While rotating the tires (218K), I grabbed the front wheels (while jacked) and found easily an honest 1/16" - 1/8" of play on the inner sockets where the tie-rod secures to the rack.

Well, this explans the "dart like" behavior of Camry on the rutted freeway so it looks like I'll be putting some new tie rods in!

The point: I wish I'd kept the original Toyota tie rods from the original rack as I bet they'd be loose today but not Sloppy like these aftermarket parts!

The good news is the rack is doing fine and the 218k mile car has no leaks anywhere!

Anyone installed these on Camry and know how to hold the rack gear from being abused while loosening and tightening the t/r's? Yeah I could pull the rack. It might be easier?

haha - forgot I wrote this post, so i added it to the orginal thread.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

FYI: These parts are notieable LOOSE! The car darts in the ruts. But guess what? It doesn't SHAKE! It doesn't Shimmy! Its not chewing off the tires bacause at general cruise speeds, the alignment remains mostly true likely holding a zero toe until I nail the gas, brakes or swap lanes!

Way too many threads about cars with shakes. . . Fix the bad balance or defective tire and move on. Loose parts don't make things shake. However, once a hitting a series of bumps, ruts, pot holes, you will have better control, and the if there is an imbalance, the suspension stands a better chance of controlling a shake if the parts are tight.

Sad - Still haven't fixed it and now it got 221,000!
Looks like a member posted something to the affect of this being my 8th post! haha


95 Cam, V6 1MZ, Auto A541E, LE >245,000 miles!
73sport is offline  
post #10 of 17 Old 07-09-2010, 10:09 PM
Official TN Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Rifle CO
Posts: 222
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
I will be replacing my rack with a NAPA rack.
Do I want to just use the OEM tir rods or use the NAPA tie rods and save the OEM for when the NAPA ones go bad?

94 Land Cruiser 452,000 mi
96 Camry 1MZ-FE V6 288,000 mi
04 Rav4 4cyl 163,000 mi
landtoy80 is offline  
post #11 of 17 Old 07-09-2010, 10:18 PM
Senior TN Member
 
Nervous's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: USA, MD
Posts: 1,128
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Thanks: 280
Thanked 118 Times in 76 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
I'd go with OEM. I have bad experience with aftermarket tie rods and stabilizer links - they were torn in 6 mo. Don't forget, you, technically, will need to do wheel alignment after replacing tie rods. So, in the case if NAPA tie rods go bad, you will pay twice for the alignment, plus you'll pay for NAPA tie rods and for OEM tie rods. Or, you can save and pay for OEM tie rods and for one alignment.
Nervous is offline  
post #12 of 17 Old 07-10-2010, 10:38 AM Thread Starter
V8'sRGone
 
73sport's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: OR
Posts: 1,956
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 24
Thanked 208 Times in 164 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
(Thread Starter)
If I had it to do over again, I'd buy just the rack itself!

A short rack likely comes with inner rods and boots.
A long rack, with inner and outer tie rods.

Yoda makes some GOOD Stuff and I'd keep the originals UNLESS they're loose already. How Many miles on them?

So you don't damage your new rack:
The rack has a an outer body and in the inner "rack gear" itself where the inner tie rods screw on. Although you don't care about damaging the old rack; when you go to install the inner tie rods on your new rack, hold the "rack gear" not the body and apply torque to the "rack gear" and "inner tie rod nut".

** Holding the body to torque t/r will damage the smooth gear contact at the "rack and pinion gears" and make your new rack a miserable POS with clunky flat spots. Don't do it even though it would be the easy thing to do!

Mines coming up next weekend, so I'll post up a rack removal w/pix!


95 Cam, V6 1MZ, Auto A541E, LE >245,000 miles!
73sport is offline  
post #13 of 17 Old 07-10-2010, 10:40 AM
Official TN Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Rifle CO
Posts: 222
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Are we talking the inner tie rod (the shaft connected to the rack) or tie rod ends (the swivel part with the boot) ?

94 Land Cruiser 452,000 mi
96 Camry 1MZ-FE V6 288,000 mi
04 Rav4 4cyl 163,000 mi
landtoy80 is offline  
post #14 of 17 Old 07-10-2010, 11:01 AM Thread Starter
V8'sRGone
 
73sport's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: OR
Posts: 1,956
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 24
Thanked 208 Times in 164 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
(Thread Starter)
Quote:
Originally Posted by landtoy80 View Post
Are we talking the inner tie rod (the shaft connected to the rack) or tie rod ends (the swivel part with the boot) ?
They are both called tie rod ends. The inner and outer. The inner swivels and rotates (under the bellows boot) the outer connects to the steering knuckle and is threaded on to the shaft for Toe Adjustments.


95 Cam, V6 1MZ, Auto A541E, LE >245,000 miles!
73sport is offline  
post #15 of 17 Old 07-10-2010, 11:30 AM
Official TN Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Rifle CO
Posts: 222
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
So what part is not to be used from the rebuilt kit, the inner or outer?

94 Land Cruiser 452,000 mi
96 Camry 1MZ-FE V6 288,000 mi
04 Rav4 4cyl 163,000 mi

Last edited by landtoy80; 07-10-2010 at 11:32 AM.
landtoy80 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums > Toyota Passenger and Sports Car Forums > Camry and Solara Forum > Camry 3rd & 4th Gen (1992-1996 & 1997-2001)/1st Gen Solara (1999-2003)

Bookmarks

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome