1999 Camry frustration - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
Camry 3rd & 4th Gen (1992-1996 & 1997-2001)/1st Gen Solara (1999-2003) Toyota Camry Discussion for years 1992-1996 & 1997-2001, as well as Solara discussion for years 1999-2003. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

 6Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 23 Old 09-26-2015, 12:45 AM Thread Starter
New TN User
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 10
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
(Thread Starter)
1999 Camry frustration

My car started having stalling problems back 6 months ago. Sometimes would start up right away, then would have a heck of time starting (had to hold gas down). No engine lights and diagnostic from Autozone reveled nothing. Took it to a mechanic diagnostic and they couldn't figure it out either. Surmised was probably the Cam Shaft Sensor. They replaced that (at a hefty cost) and car was working great until about a week ago.
Last week it stalled on me and was having some gear shifting problems in cruise control. Also the throttle would rev itself up for no reason. Talking to a few co-workers, we found a bad hose to the evac system. Replaced that and seemed no stalling. Imagine, a $2 hose....
Tonight though, the car stalled in the middle of a drive-thru. Imagine my embarrassment. It did it a total of 3 times. I had to keep it in neutral with the rpm's sitting at 2000 to keep from stalling. Drove home fine.
My biggest concern was I smelled sulfur when I started up the car after the 2nd and 3rd stall.
Did some research and it said something about Cadalitic Converter. The problem though is I still have NO check engine light pop up while the car is running, only the usual lights when it shuts off.
That and the car likes to sit at 1.5k rpm while in cruise.
I'm very confused and frustrated..
Junniper is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 23 Old 09-26-2015, 06:09 AM
Senior TN Member
 
carsrus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Chicago
Posts: 2,322
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 172 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 296 Times in 280 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Cam shaft sensor would not cause this.

Disconnect cruise control wire from the throttle body to rule that out. i doubt it but its possible.

Then I would change the idle air control valve and do a through cleaning of the butterfly valve in the throttle body.

It'll smell rich after stalling since it seems like your having an air problem (idle air control valve) and the engine is flooded with fuel. Could be a sticky egr valve as well.
carsrus is offline  
post #3 of 23 Old 09-26-2015, 06:37 AM
Official TN Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: georgia
Posts: 461
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 94 Post(s)
Thanks: 8
Thanked 51 Times in 50 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
I'd test the idle air control valve with a multimeter to make sure it's still good and then clean it.

https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...aning-iac.html

96 camry 2.2 auto 180k+
93 camry 2.2 auto 317k+
borwish is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 23 Old 09-26-2015, 03:23 PM
Senior TN Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 4,189
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 749 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 335 Times in 309 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by Junniper View Post
Sometimes would start up right away, then would have a heck of time starting (had to hold gas down).
Engine hot only? How did it start engine cold? Hold gas pedal to floor, or only part way down?

Quote:
My biggest concern was I smelled sulfur when I started up the car after the 2nd and 3rd stall....That and the car likes to sit at 1.5k rpm while in cruise.
It does sound like flooding. Computer injects fuel based on a number of inputs from sensors. One would be engine temperature. Are most of your problems when engine hot?

1995 Camry Wagon LE. 2.2 5S-FE, Auto, 250K
Stillrunning is offline  
post #5 of 23 Old 09-26-2015, 05:25 PM Thread Starter
New TN User
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 10
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
(Thread Starter)
Yes this seems to only happen, randomly I might add, when the engine is starting to get to or is at temp. Either sitting still, in neutral or in drive at a stop. Doesn't happen when driving down the road.

Plus there has been times I put my foot all the way down when it stalls. Maybe I'm just panicking on that.


I took off the Isle Air Control modual today (not the whole thing) to clean the magnetic piston with carb cleaner. I saw a video that showed to pull off a hose, plug up the end with your finger and just flood that opening in the carburetor. Problem is the video showed 3 tubes and mine has 2. I took off one and fluid went all over the place. Both lines seem to be coolant, but when the guy pulled off a line I didn't see fluid. I'm guessing skipped a step...

This might seem unnecessary, but the big hose that leads from filter to carburetor has a big crack in it.
Something I might also add. The engine vibrates a little and I am constantly hearing a 'whiiirrrrrrrrr' noise. Perhaps there is some friction or strain going on that is causing the motor to struggle?

I dunno..
Junniper is offline  
post #6 of 23 Old 09-26-2015, 06:34 PM
Senior TN Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 4,189
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 749 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 335 Times in 309 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by Junniper View Post
Yes this seems to only happen, randomly I might add, when the engine is starting to get to or is at temp. Either sitting still, in neutral or in drive at a stop. Doesn't happen when driving down the road.
I'm still confused. When you start it after sitting overnight does it stall anytime? When you start it after it's been running and is still hot does it stall at idle?

Quote:
Plus there has been times I put my foot all the way down when it stalls. Maybe I'm just panicking on that.
Do you need to do this to get it to start - keep it from stalling? When hot or cold or both?

Quote:
I took off the Isle Air Control modual today (not the whole thing) to clean the magnetic piston with carb cleaner. I saw a video that showed to pull off a hose, plug up the end with your finger and just flood that opening in the carburetor. Problem is the video showed 3 tubes and mine has 2. I took off one and fluid went all over the place. Both lines seem to be coolant, but when the guy pulled off a line I didn't see fluid. I'm guessing skipped a step...
Malfunctioning IAC can cause stalling, but if you give it a bit of gas pedal the engine won't stall - is this what you are doing? The coolant provides heat to the throttle body.

Quote:
This might seem unnecessary, but the big hose that leads from filter to carburetor has a big crack in it.
If you have a MAF then this will affect idle and running. If you have a MAP then this won't affect much. Do you know what you have?

1995 Camry Wagon LE. 2.2 5S-FE, Auto, 250K
Stillrunning is offline  
post #7 of 23 Old 09-26-2015, 06:52 PM
Senior TN Member
 
carsrus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Chicago
Posts: 2,322
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 172 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 296 Times in 280 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by Junniper View Post
This might seem unnecessary, but the big hose that leads from filter to carburetor has a big crack in it.
This is a critical component, it should be replaced. There is no carb, its the throttle body.

Spraying carb cleaner into the opening wont do much. If its stalling out completely you need to test and more than likely replace the IAC.

The ECT sensor can cause a similar issue your having. Its only $15 and very easy to replace.
mcgowaw likes this.
carsrus is offline  
post #8 of 23 Old 04-14-2019, 06:33 PM Thread Starter
New TN User
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 10
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
(Thread Starter)
Here we go again with stalling

So it's been a few years and a few things have changed and almost the same thing is happening again. So here's an update:

2018 repairs
April - Was leaking oil at the oil pump. Replaced oil pump, water pump (oil got in), timing belt. Few days after that it was stalling every once in a great while. Was told the computer was resetting itself to the change.
2019 repairs
February - Check engine light on and would stall about once every 3-4 weeks. Diagnosis was bay2 O2 sensor and purge valve. Also catalytic converter was burning up. Mechanic said the O2 was getting thrown off by the catalytic and replaced that along with the flex heat pipe that was charred. Stalled twice in 2 days after. Had to replace both the purge valves (front and rear).
Stalling stopped until recently.

The car has been rough idling for awhile now but never went below 800 rpm's
207k Miles. No check engine light on.

Here's my new problem.
A few days ago driving to work the rpm's went up a little and felt odd. Got to a stop light about a mile down the road and the engine stopped. No hesitation. Took a min to restart and had to hold the gas down. Once started I floored it till I got to the next light. Smelled a bit of gas. At the next light, it stalled again. Same thing on the next start. 1/2 way to work there was nothing else wrong.
Later that day I went out and decided to clean up the throttle body and the IAC with carb cleaner. It wasn't bad but I got some black and brown dirt out of the area. Started the car up without the intake hose to listen and made a noise with the IAC at first, then ran normal. Sprayed some cleaner now and then to get a little more out while it was running and of course it was bogging the engine down.
So put everything back together, started up the car and it started up to 1400rpm's and slowly went down till it got warmed up. At that point the car stalled. Started it back up again and after 1 min it stalled again. On the 4th time, something odd happened. As it was idling, the rpm's dropped to 100 and stuttered, but suddenly kicked in to 2700. Then it dropped back down to 100 and wanted to stall but went back up to 2700 (or so). It did this for the next min or so and then shut off.
Had to go back inside to work and came out later to try again.
Once again back out there and thought maybe I didn't have the hoses on right. Started up and it just did the same thing again, but this time I heard something. I heard a "whoosh" near the air intake when the car stalled out. Opened it up to find debris in it (presumably from a rodent). Cleaned it up thinking it was just a clogged air flow. Nope, it just did the same thing again. I was able to notice on the back and forth of the rpm's that every time it went up I would see some smoke from the tail pipe. Went back there to see condensation on the ground.
I did not even try to drive it home and am so depressed with the stalling and repairs for the past year with this car.
I'm tempted to try and clean it out again, thinking since I used carb/choke cleaner, it was a mess up and should get throttle body cleaner instead and just pour a whole bunch down the IAC hole and let it sit there for a day. There is a car dealership right next to where I work as well, but can't afford to put much into the car right now.
Junniper is offline  
post #9 of 23 Old 04-14-2019, 06:49 PM
BMR
Sheriff of Mayberry
 
BMR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Colorado
Posts: 12,027
Mentioned: 44 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1753 Post(s)
Thanks: 520
Thanked 2,172 Times in 1,875 Posts
Lifetime Supreme Member
Garage
iTrader Score: 2 reviews
I still think itís got IAC valve problems. Itís not clear... Did you completely remove, disassemble, and clean the IAC valve? There is no substitute for this. Half measures usually donít work. Follow the DIY in the link posted by borwish in post #3 above.

Or itís just gone bad and it needs replacing. This isnít super common, but it ainít rare either.
CamryFL likes this.

2015 RAV4 Limited, AWD, tech pkg, Barcelona red metallic, 61k miles
1996 Avalon XLS, ABS brakes, super white II, acquired w/ 139k, now at 394k
1992 Camry LE, V6 (3VZ-FE), ABS brakes, dark emerald pearl, owned since new. Replaced HGs @332k, totaled at 384k miles
BMR is offline  
post #10 of 23 Old 04-14-2019, 06:55 PM
'00 4 Cyl. Auto Camry LE
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: NH, USA
Posts: 682
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 181 Post(s)
Thanks: 86
Thanked 113 Times in 108 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
It's unclear how thoroughly you cleaned the air box & intake - if signs of rodent intrusion, I'd pull the -entire air box assembly- and clean it .. and also check for any rodent nesting where the air box pulls in air ( fender well?) if here.
CamryFL is offline  
post #11 of 23 Old 04-14-2019, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
New TN User
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 10
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
(Thread Starter)
Quote:
Originally Posted by BMR View Post
I still think itís got IAC valve problems. Itís not clear... Did you completely remove, disassemble, and clean the IAC valve? There is no substitute for this. Half measures usually donít work. Follow the DIY in the link posted by borwish in post #3 above.

Or itís just gone bad and it needs replacing. This isnít super common, but it ainít rare either.
No I just squirted the cleaner into the chamber. I'm not sure I can actually disassemble it myself. I actually have a new one I bought years ago but never tried to install it.
Junniper is offline  
post #12 of 23 Old 04-14-2019, 07:47 PM Thread Starter
New TN User
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 10
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
(Thread Starter)
Quote:
Originally Posted by CamryFL View Post
It's unclear how thoroughly you cleaned the air box & intake - if signs of rodent intrusion, I'd pull the -entire air box assembly- and clean it .. and also check for any rodent nesting where the air box pulls in air ( fender well?) if here.
Took the lid off, took the filter out. Pulled and threw away all the larger stuff and used compressed air to try and get the little stuff out. Did put my finger into the hole where the well is at and found nothing.
Junniper is offline  
post #13 of 23 Old 04-14-2019, 08:58 PM
BMR
Sheriff of Mayberry
 
BMR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Colorado
Posts: 12,027
Mentioned: 44 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1753 Post(s)
Thanks: 520
Thanked 2,172 Times in 1,875 Posts
Lifetime Supreme Member
Garage
iTrader Score: 2 reviews
If youíve already bought a new IAC valve, just install that. Itís not very hard to do. Just follow that DIY I mentioned that borwish posted. It might not be mentioned in there, but the screws look like Phillips drive, but theyíre not. Theyíre #2 size JIS drive screws, and if you try to use a Phillips screwdriver, theyíll likely strip out. You can get a #2 JIS screwdriver or hex-bits on eBay, or Amazon.

2015 RAV4 Limited, AWD, tech pkg, Barcelona red metallic, 61k miles
1996 Avalon XLS, ABS brakes, super white II, acquired w/ 139k, now at 394k
1992 Camry LE, V6 (3VZ-FE), ABS brakes, dark emerald pearl, owned since new. Replaced HGs @332k, totaled at 384k miles
BMR is offline  
post #14 of 23 Old 04-15-2019, 08:34 PM Thread Starter
New TN User
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 10
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
(Thread Starter)
no go

Update:
Also bought a Throttle sensor that goes on the throttle body. Boy was that one heck of a pain to take off as there was little distance and the screw started to strip (glad I had a pair of needle nose vise grips).

Tested both the old IAC and throttle sensors to find they were both working normally on a multi-meter. The older IAC had some run spots in it, so cleaned that up.
The newer IAC would not fit unfortunately. It is actually smaller.. go figure.
So cleaned off the old one and put some grease on it. Installed the new throttle sensor.

The cars starts up and idles at 1700rpm until it gets some temp and then goes back down, but no less than 1100. Still stalls while idling and is a true pain to start back up.
Smells like gas when it was running and of course when it was trying to restart it.
It had a check engine light on the first time I started it back up when reattached everything, but once I had a friend come out, that check engine light was not on anymore.

Still makes a air shhhhhh sounds when it stalls.
I really hope it's not the purge valve sensors as I replaced those 2 and there is no check engine. Thinking about purchasing some vacuum hoses and redoing then at a longer length. Disconnect the battery and reset the computer????

Spent almost 100 just in parts and tools to work on it today. I don't know how much more I want to spend if this thing won't stay running. The new high RPM's though threw me for a loop. No way it should be idling that fast. I'm so depressed.
Junniper is offline  
post #15 of 23 Old 04-15-2019, 09:28 PM
Senior TN Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Pothole Central, NY
Posts: 1,616
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 324 Post(s)
Thanks: 171
Thanked 379 Times in 325 Posts
iTrader Score: 12 reviews
So if I got this right, the car never has trouble starting when cold, but stalls and has trouble starting when hot? Have you checked the coolant temp sensor? 99 still has 2 of them, one for the ECU, one for the speedometer, so even if your speedometer reads correct temps the ECU may be getting the wrong reading. They're both on the coolant tee above the transmission. The 2-wire is the ECU one, the 1-wire is the speedometer one.



The ECU would adjust fuel based off coolant temp (engine temp, essentially) sensor, and that could cause issues like what you're describing. If you have an OBD scanner that can read engine temp, see what the reading says.



Also, check the wiring. The connectors on the coolant temp sensors can get stretched a bit and damaged at the plug end. That happened to me - had weird surging issues at idle when car was hot. Took me forever to figure it out.


Hope this helps!
CamryFL likes this.
slavie is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums > Toyota Passenger and Sports Car Forums > Camry and Solara Forum > Camry 3rd & 4th Gen (1992-1996 & 1997-2001)/1st Gen Solara (1999-2003)

Bookmarks

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome