Flickering Oil Light, This - Page 5 - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
Camry 3rd & 4th Gen (1992-1996 & 1997-2001)/1st Gen Solara (1999-2003) Toyota Camry Discussion for years 1992-1996 & 1997-2001, as well as Solara discussion for years 1999-2003. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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post #61 of 139 Old 11-15-2017, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayinc11 View Post
You say the pressures are too high? Temps today are 70, so not cold. Just did another one results are pretty much the same, it's 73 right now. In both cases I let the car warm. So at 3k RPM

If it's idling at 16 psi, about .75 rpm, is this a normal range?
At 1000 rpm seems to jump by 10psi to 27psi
At 2000 rpm seems to jump by 30 psi to 56 psi
At 3000 rpm seems to jump by 10 psi to 66 psi

What do you make of this? Where is the problem?

Here is the video while driving around

https://youtu.be/rzqfce2bQXY





OIL LEAK & TORQUING
Oil pan bolts at 38 and 1 bolt broke off even before 38 INCH LBs. So I just tightened the rest best I could without another damage.

I don't know if the problem is a thin silicone sealant compared to a pan gasket. But I made sure to put thick silicone layer, to match a gasket before flattening and allowing over night to set. The end near the transmission I added some more and left them beaded (did not flatten) just before re-installing pan. Removed that crank panel, let car idle for 30 minutes. The area seems dry, but 48 inch lbs torquing seems to be an issue-broken bolts.




- in the real-world high oil pressure is fine so long as the relief valve is functioning properly.. if not, you'll blow a seal

- make sure your are not over-filled with oil

- make sure the water temp AND the oil temp are warmed up (ie, don't just warm it up to t-stat temp, rather romp on the car for a while to warm the oil too)

- make sure you don't have a Mickey-Mouse oil filter in there... Toyota filter for best results.. jammed filter will raise the pressure

- don't use 20w-50 in her.. lol...


either way, your LOW oil pressure is SOLVED!








1995 2.2L Camry 5sfe engine
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post #62 of 139 Old 11-15-2017, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Blackness View Post
either way, your LOW oil pressure is SOLVED.
Just no way to make some people happy.

1995 Camry Wagon LE. 2.2 5S-FE, Auto, 250K
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post #63 of 139 Old 11-15-2017, 11:10 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by JohnGD View Post
Looks like you should have gone with an Aisin pump all along!! What brand was the old junk? Rebuilt?

The cold oil pressure was high because the oil was cold and thick. Oil pressure should be measured when the engine is at operating temp. So the latter ones look more in line. I actually think they look fine. While Toyota only specs like above 4.3 psi at idle, which is pretty useless, other members found other numbers, such as 3000 rpms 36-71 psi which is a wide range:
https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...sure-info.html

As far as the leak goes, try wiping things off with the cover removed and see if the leak comes back. It may be just old oil before you sealed everything up. With Permatex RTVs (Ultra Copper, Grey, Black, Water pump & Thermostat), I never had a leak on a variety of engines. Make sure the surfaces are clean and dry so the RTV can stick. I wipe off the drips right before putting the pan on, but minor drips shoudln't matter.
It was an eBay cheapy Chicom crap. Never again.
Right now all is dry, no oil drips on the ground. I will drive for the next 2/3 days and lift it for an exam on Sunday. If there's wetness I just might have to replace silicone seal with an OE gasket. I don't like them much due to having to scrape off baked, broken pieces of it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stillrunning View Post
What weight oil are you using? Not sure you have a problem unless the high pressure forces oil through seals that will leak. I can't think of any that need to hold pressure?? I assume you have new pressure relief valve with new oil pump? Did you drive the car to heat engine AND oil to max temp?
Using Wally Supertec full synthetic 5/30.
New pressure valve with new oil pump - Yes, it's a new Aisin.
Let the car idle for a good 10...20 minutes, then drove a short distance.
Yes seems oil pressure issue is solved.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackness View Post
- in the real-world high oil pressure is fine so long as the relief valve is functioning properly.. if not, you'll blow a seal

- make sure your are not over-filled with oil

- make sure the water temp AND the oil temp are warmed up (ie, don't just warm it up to t-stat temp, rather romp on the car for a while to warm the oil too)

- make sure you don't have a Mickey-Mouse oil filter in there... Toyota filter for best results.. jammed filter will raise the pressure

- don't use 20w-50 in her.. lol...
either way, your LOW oil pressure is SOLVED!
I believe it is and yep Check All. I am happier than a grinning possum eating a sweet tater with the way this has turned out. I thank you all for your input and willingness to help.

You know two days before this happened someone offered me 2k for this car. I am very tempted to swap it for a lower mileage 2006ish Camry.

Next for my learning experience I want to understand this plunger failure business in the oil pump, so on Sunday I will dig into it.

1997 Camry LE 2.2 178K and counting strong.

Last edited by jayinc11; 11-16-2017 at 05:33 AM.
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post #64 of 139 Old 11-16-2017, 10:25 AM Thread Starter
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Hey guys the silencer below has oil inside the braided part. Car stinks of burning oil after some time driving. Is there a way to clean it out or I just have to keep driving until it burns out? In that case is it a fire hazard?

[/QUOTE]

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post #65 of 139 Old 11-16-2017, 10:33 AM
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Yeah if it's too carboned up, but not under normal conditions. It gets saturated from just about any oil leak save for timing side - valve covers, distributor hole, rear main seal. I hope it's not your rear main seal, I did a write-up when I thought it was that on my uncle's '95 (wasted three days, turned out to be a cracked block).

Once you solve the oil drip, spray it down with acetone to try and clear it out. The rest will evaporate/burn off.

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post #66 of 139 Old 11-17-2017, 04:55 PM
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Yeah, spray with brake cleaner while the engine and exhaust are COLD! And allow to evaporate. You don't want to start a fire with flammable solvents!
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post #67 of 139 Old 11-20-2017, 12:25 PM Thread Starter
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Hey guys I am having an oil drip around area marked B. There's oil wetness on where the oil pan meets the tranny. So I am thinking to drop oil pan and replace silicone with an oil pan gasket. I just hate the way it hardens over time but I would rather that than the oil drip considering how hot the exhaust and that muffler gets.

My instinct is an AZ Fel-pro gasket or similar. But may be you guys,
1-have a better choice you have found out holds well?
2-And where do you buy it?
3-And is there a silicone oil pan gasket for this engine?


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post #68 of 139 Old 11-20-2017, 12:32 PM
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I'd think properly applied RTV would seal much better than a gasket. Maybe the leak is from above? How's the rear main seal, distributor seal (97 has coils but the distributor hole is still there). Half-moon plugs resealed? Looks like the right side (differential side) has a good coat of oil too. It's easier if its coming from above.

You can remove the bell housing cover and try to peek inside too.
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post #69 of 139 Old 11-20-2017, 01:08 PM Thread Starter
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I'd think properly applied RTV would seal much better than a gasket. Maybe the leak is from above? How's the rear main seal, distributor seal (97 has coils but the distributor hole is still there). Half-moon plugs resealed? Looks like the right side (differential side) has a good coat of oil too. It's easier if its coming from above.

You can remove the bell housing cover and try to peek inside too.
I have always had leaks from above but they are wet without drips, if that makes sense-my intention was to address these later after the oil pump replacement. The only drops to the ground I had was when the oil pump seal leaked, changed it (with the cheapy one) and drips stopped, car has been dry for what 9 or so months. With the bell housing out I looked in there with an inspection mirror and it's dry-took some pics if I can find them I will re-post them. I guess that confirms the rear main seal is ok? Yes the right side has a good coat too-it's always been there and dried. I have inspected it this AM and no new wet oil drips I can see. Perhaps it's time to get to the rest of it-distributor seal, half moon, etc. But I am thinking I first use a dye on the engine oil and tranny fluids. Good idea? Will oil/fluids have to be replaced there after to extinguish the dye, or there's no harm?

1997 Camry LE 2.2 178K and counting strong.
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post #70 of 139 Old 11-20-2017, 01:11 PM
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If the area between the rear main seal and the oil pan is dry, then the seal itself is ok. Now, the real main seal sits in a larger block of housing. That housing and the block might have leaks in between.

I just don't want to see you keep sealing a well-sealed oil pan repeatedly.

As far as the dye, you can just leave it in there until the next change.
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post #71 of 139 Old 11-20-2017, 03:14 PM Thread Starter
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If the area between the rear main seal and the oil pan is dry, then the seal itself is ok. Now, the real main seal sits in a larger block of housing. That housing and the block might have leaks in between.

I just don't want to see you keep sealing a well-sealed oil pan repeatedly.

As far as the dye, you can just leave it in there until the next change.
True, I would rather move on to the next issue.

Sorry to ask this but I thought I had the rear main seal check out covered. But you say " the real main seal sits in a larger block of housing" - how do I tell that one is ok or leaky?

Relying on your experience what story do these pics tell ya? Notice the slight smoke on the braided muffler.



Here you can see the crank case is oil-dry.



OTHERS




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Last edited by jayinc11; 11-20-2017 at 03:23 PM.
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post #72 of 139 Old 11-20-2017, 03:40 PM
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Use this as a 'gasket', let it sit overnight, it will NEVER leak:


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post #73 of 139 Old 11-20-2017, 05:00 PM Thread Starter
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Use this as a 'gasket', let it sit overnight, it will NEVER leak:


BTW can this be used for the top cover gasket as well, or just get a gasket for that?

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post #74 of 139 Old 11-20-2017, 06:24 PM
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BTW can this be used for the top cover gasket as well, or just get a gasket for that?

you can use it ANYWHERE you don't want stuff to leak...


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post #75 of 139 Old 11-21-2017, 06:52 PM Thread Starter
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Guys I am stumped here a little.

Put dye in EO, and sure enough there's a leak that's dripping on the ground, dropping from the bottom of the braided muffler. You would think there's oil dripping on top of the braided muffler and then making it's way to it's bottom. But the top of the braided muffler is dry. It's like oil is entering the exhaust pipe, and leaking out at the bottom of the braided muffler. I just don't know where this is coming from. Now, to it's right the bell housing cover has drips along the pointed arrows. There's an obvious distance between the braided muffler and the bell housing cover, so me thinks it's not possible that this is the leak that is getting on the braided muffler? I will have to bell house cover to see in there, top and bottom, but last time I checked, it was dry. Any ideas?

Secondly I want to go ahead and order that kit that will address the distributor hole, Half-moon plugs, etc and I would like to replace top cover gasket while at it. Can you guys point me towards a recommended kit?

Will resolve the oil pan leak with Right Suff Gasket. Unless there's a serious leak, hidden in that area between end of oil pan and bell housing cover, then I don't know, because oil panel is just wet and not dripping. I didn't see any where else that has oil dye.




1997 Camry LE 2.2 178K and counting strong.

Last edited by jayinc11; 11-21-2017 at 06:55 PM.
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