Flickering Oil Light, This - Page 7 - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
Camry 3rd & 4th Gen (1992-1996 & 1997-2001)/1st Gen Solara (1999-2003) Toyota Camry Discussion for years 1992-1996 & 1997-2001, as well as Solara discussion for years 1999-2003. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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post #91 of 139 Old 02-26-2018, 07:40 PM
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If you want to do a second round of the dye test, would love to look at some pictures

1998 Camry. 5SFE: 2200CC 16-VALVE DOHC EFI. Model: SXV20L-AEPNKA
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post #92 of 139 Old 04-18-2019, 06:34 AM Thread Starter
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Been trying to post this but all I get is HTTP error 500. So I will revive this old thread.

1997 Camry LE 181k miles

Hey guys I am stumped at this one. The car is losing a lot of engine oil. When I stop it makes a big oil puddle on the passenger side, directly below the power steering pump. I thought the leak was coming from the oil pump (slightly over a year old replaced.) But all that area is dry. I looked at the valve cover, going down the cylinder head, below it and section below on the passenger side, and it's dry. Then oil wetness appears on the PSP itself. But it is not PSP Fluid but eng. oil. PSP fluid level is aok and never has an low level issue.

I have already removed the belt that goes around the starter, the engine mount and was gonna remove the TB cover. I stopped when I saw that was dry.

Pic's (coming later) and a short <30 sec vid below.

Where is the leak coming from? Where do I look?

.
https://i.ibb.co/88SST6F/20190416-200526.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/2tpX7qk/20190416-200534.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/sgFCNbJ/20190416-200659.jpg


1997 Camry LE 2.2 178K and counting strong.

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post #93 of 139 Old 04-18-2019, 10:52 AM
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Valve cover gasket? Check to see if intake is oily, if so, suspect VC gasket. Otherwise, distributor hole plug maybe

00 Camry 5S-FE 184k smoooth
01 ES300 147k NEEDS TRANS WORK
01 Insight 137k BROKEN CAMSHAFT
02 Insight 178k DC-DC BELLY-UP
08 STS-V 67k 570 RWHP!
01 Viggen 112k 400 FWHP
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post #94 of 139 Old 04-25-2019, 05:35 AM Thread Starter
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I didn't see any signs on the VC but I will check it again tonight if it won't be raining; and definitely not the distributor hole plug. That area is bone dry.

PSP was covered in engine oil, yet there are no leaks above it, nor is the TB cover oil-wet, it's bone dry too. I am bewildered.

1997 Camry LE 2.2 178K and counting strong.
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post #95 of 139 Old 04-26-2019, 06:45 AM Thread Starter
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Posting this from a small screen so near with me.

Did some more checking .... there is no leakage around valve cover gasket. Intake is dry. The distributor hole is dry as are the half moons.

Camshaft seal is dry but the plate behind the sprocket is oily. That is top most location I found oil wetness. Photo 3.

And you can see the oil leak from below on photo 4.

Oil pump seems bone dry so far. Photo 2.

I am gonna have to tear this apart so I can look at behind that plate but in the meantime what do you guys think looking at these pics?
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1997 Camry LE 2.2 178K and counting strong.
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post #96 of 139 Old 04-29-2019, 11:20 PM Thread Starter
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I removed camshaft sprocket. Last time I changed oil pump etc, I skipped changing camshaft seal (yeah lesson learned the hard way.) It shows it's age.

It has what looks like to me a slight leak compared to the amount of oil that's all over the PS pump and that drops on the floor creating a large puddle.

Both rear corners of the top cover have wetness on around the corners on the surface where the seal seats. Only the left seems to have a slight drip on the cylinder head side.

There's slight oil wetness behind the black camshaft sprocket plate.

Compared to the leakage that occurs when the car stops I was expecting to find much more obvious, clear evidence of leakage.

Question is do you guys think these slight leakages are responsible for the car losing so much oil?
I am afraid that when I patch her up the ugly of ugly leak is still gonna show up after all this work.
What is the torque value for the camshaft sprocket bolt?
What is the torque value for the large plug holes nuts that hold the top cover? I found them too easy to turn lefty.





1997 Camry LE 2.2 178K and counting strong.

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post #97 of 139 Old 04-30-2019, 10:15 AM Thread Starter
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Hey guys any comments please?

I removed these two bolts, found them covered in oil? If I wipe and dip them back in they are coming out covered in oil. Should there be oil in the bolt wells?
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1997 Camry LE 2.2 178K and counting strong.
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post #98 of 139 Old 04-30-2019, 10:24 AM
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"Hey guys any comments please?

I removed these two bolts, found them covered in oil? If I wipe and dip them back in they are coming out covered in oil. Should there be oil in the bolt wells?"


Which bolt hole wells? ... If valve cover, then no - the VC gasket is supposed to contain the oil inside.


Edit: just saw the pic - if Camshaft Cap bolts - providing there is no gasket between the bolt wells -> the interior cam assembly, then sure - it's possible for oil to reach that point.



* But I haven't had to replace the camshaft seal yet, either. Hopefully better informed TN folks will jump in w/ better reply.

Last edited by CamryFL; 04-30-2019 at 10:29 AM.
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post #99 of 139 Old 04-30-2019, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayinc11 View Post
Hey guys any comments please?

I removed these two bolts, found them covered in oil? If I wipe and dip them back in they are coming out covered in oil. Should there be oil in the bolt wells?
Torque on the camshaft sprocket is 40 ft-lbs, make sure whatever you're counterholding with doesn't move when you do that.

The valve cover nuts are 33 ft-lbs (updated torque value), do it this way:

1. Snug them all down as far as you can with the 30mm socket in your hand
2. Go 3-2-4-1, inside to outside on each pass. First pass, to 17 ft-lbs. Second pass, to 25. Final pass, to 33

If you were resealing the spark plug tubes while you have it open, clean them up, put FIPG on the lower threads, and torque them (with the VC nuts) to 36 ft-lbs. I've got all this laid out in my engine/trans swap DIY, feel free to check it out if you need a reference.

I've had little luck with dye. In my experience, it spreads and becomes hard to figure out by the time you can get a good look at it, and when you can get a good look at it before it does this, you could have seen the leak without it. What I do for leaks is follow the oil to the highest point on the engine. Sometimes, something lower is leaking worse, so you end up sealing what you find from top to bottom.

Cam cap bolts should have oil on the threads: official instructions are to oil under the bolt head and the washer before installation. The end bearing cap that holds the camshaft oil seal is sealed with FIPG (unless you have an FSM, check my DIY for the details). Cam cap bolt torque is 14 ft-lbs, there's a sequence and it should be done in several steps, like the valve cover nuts.

00 Camry 5S-FE 184k smoooth
01 ES300 147k NEEDS TRANS WORK
01 Insight 137k BROKEN CAMSHAFT
02 Insight 178k DC-DC BELLY-UP
08 STS-V 67k 570 RWHP!
01 Viggen 112k 400 FWHP
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post #100 of 139 Old 04-30-2019, 10:44 AM
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If it's oil, that much oil always seems to come from the oil-pump o-ring... our last timing-belt job involved replacing an oil-pump o-ring that was leaking a quarter every 50 miles. There's was a trail of oil down the bottom of the car on the right side, over the muffler, then up the bumper and up the trunk. The o-ring came out in dried chunks.

If it's p/s fluid, we'd just replace the pump and high pressure hose.

When you definitively figure out the source, let us know...!
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post #101 of 139 Old 04-30-2019, 11:45 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbagdon View Post
If it's oil, that much oil always seems to come from the oil-pump o-ring...
I installed an aisin OP. The area is dry. For good measure I am removing H.Balancer next and the cover. The uuper cover is out and has slight oil wetness towards power steering pump.

Quote:
Originally Posted by insightbrewery View Post
What I do for leaks is follow the oil to the highest point on the engine. Sometimes, something lower is leaking worse, so you end up sealing what you find from top to bottom.

The end bearing cap that holds the camshaft oil seal is sealed with FIPG (unless you have an FSM, check my DIY for the details).
Is this known to leak?
When I look below it there's no apparent oil wetness.
The intakes are dry. I had cleaned them at the previous OP job, the aluminum is still shiny.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CamryFL View Post
Edit: just saw the pic - if Camshaft Cap bolts - providing there is no gasket between the bolt wells -> the interior cam assembly, then sure - it's possible for oil to reach that point.

* But I haven't had to replace the camshaft seal yet, either. Hopefully better informed TN folks will jump in w/ better reply.
When the previous OP gave out and was leaking I had leaks on the right side, dripping on the silencer. I plugged the distributor hole then. That side is holding well with no leak.

The camshaft oil seal is in-PIC 2. I had skipped replacing it at last OP job. Looking at this pic, is that about right being my first replacement?
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1997 Camry LE 2.2 178K and counting strong.

Last edited by jayinc11; 04-30-2019 at 11:52 AM.
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post #102 of 139 Old 04-30-2019, 12:11 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by insightbrewery View Post
If you were resealing the spark plug tubes while you have it open, clean them up, put FIPG on the lower threads, and torque them (with the VC nuts) to 36 ft-lbs. I've got all this laid out in my engine/trans swap DIY, feel free to check it out if you need a reference.
EDIT:
It came out and there's was no gap. I will take care of that now.

Question I have is.....
1-Is this end cap the FIPG type? pic is below
2-FIPG should be in the groves, correct?
3-You say the endcap has FIPG (unless you have FSM) How do you tell what you have? See my pic 3 above
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1997 Camry LE 2.2 178K and counting strong.

Last edited by jayinc11; 04-30-2019 at 12:33 PM.
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post #103 of 139 Old 04-30-2019, 12:53 PM Thread Starter
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Also is the AZ Duralast camshaft seal a good one to use?
Or is it's cheap price reflective of it's quality?


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post #104 of 139 Old 04-30-2019, 01:03 PM
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With the bearing cap reinstalled, the FPIG goes in the 8 places on the end as noted, not in the grooves. Good vid on YouTube....
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post #105 of 139 Old 04-30-2019, 01:09 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DFBonnett View Post
With the bearing cap reinstalled, the FPIG goes in the 8 places on the end as noted, not in the grooves.
OK great. What about the end cap itself. Is there any FPIG that goes on it, where it sits, before you put it back?

EDIT:
Found my answer in you diy post.
Strange there was no FIPG on this one when it came out.

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Last edited by jayinc11; 04-30-2019 at 01:33 PM.
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