Hey guys any comments please?
I removed these two bolts, found them covered in oil? If I wipe and dip them back in they are coming out covered in oil. Should there be oil in the bolt wells?
Torque on the camshaft sprocket is 40 ft-lbs, make sure whatever you're counterholding with doesn't move when you do that.
The valve cover nuts are 33 ft-lbs (updated torque value), do it this way:
1. Snug them all down as far as you can with the 30mm socket in your hand
2. Go 3-2-4-1, inside to outside on each pass. First pass, to 17 ft-lbs. Second pass, to 25. Final pass, to 33
If you were resealing the spark plug tubes while you have it open, clean them up, put FIPG on the lower threads, and torque them (with the VC nuts) to 36 ft-lbs. I've got all this laid out in my engine/trans swap DIY, feel free to check it out if you need a reference.
I've had little luck with dye. In my experience, it spreads and becomes hard to figure out by the time you can get a good look at it, and when you can get a good look at it before it does this, you could have seen the leak without it. What I do for leaks is follow the oil to the highest point on the engine. Sometimes, something lower is leaking worse, so you end up sealing what you find from top to bottom.
Cam cap bolts should have oil on the threads: official instructions are to oil under the bolt head and the washer before installation. The end bearing cap that holds the camshaft oil seal is sealed with FIPG (unless you have an FSM, check my DIY for the details). Cam cap bolt torque is 14 ft-lbs, there's a sequence and it should be done in several steps, like the valve cover nuts.