4th Gen Camry 3SGTE swap - Page 7 - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
Camry 3rd & 4th Gen (1992-1996 & 1997-2001)/1st Gen Solara (1999-2003) Toyota Camry Discussion for years 1992-1996 & 1997-2001, as well as Solara discussion for years 1999-2003. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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post #91 of 109 Old 05-14-2019, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by NOTAMR2 View Post
Been another little while since I've updated this thread.


I should have expected this, but turns out I have to get different front wheel hubs, since they are different for the E153 driveshafts. (The cogwheel diameter is larger than the I4 ones).


I ordered a brand named "SKF". Anyone ever heard of that brand?


I also got the front calipers and discs / pads today

You should have at least gotten the dual piston calipers since you were buying new ones anyway!
Better yet, 330mm dual piston Highlander brake setup - bolts right on vs the 275mm V6 Camry setup. I have mine laying around (never got to installing it, car is gone now).
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post #92 of 109 Old 05-14-2019, 07:13 PM Thread Starter
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What year and trim level highlander? Could i use the calipers on the rear later?

Last edited by NOTAMR2; 05-14-2019 at 07:35 PM.
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post #93 of 109 Old 05-14-2019, 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by NOTAMR2 View Post
What year and trim level highlander? Could i use the calipers on the rear later?
I think around 2011-2013 Highlander/RX350 and I think even Sienna. Mine are from 2013 if I remember correctly. Not sure about the rears, I'm not aware of anybody has tried them. Also, you have the parking brake in the rear that the size has to match up, so it may not be a straight-forward swap, may need backing plates.
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post #94 of 109 Old 05-14-2019, 10:55 PM
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Thread here about fitting the Highlander brakes. IIRC, 17” wheels are required.
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post #95 of 109 Old 05-15-2019, 05:33 AM
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Talk about deja vu... this is the invert of back when the MR2 community was trying to get the V6 in to the back of the MR2. Same arguments and sub-threads, too.

Seem to remember running in to that, with trans vs. front/mid install/configure. Someone figured out you just had to remove the shift-arms, machine a new mounting hole, then install backwards (believe that was for the V6/manual). Will see if I can dig up the info.

Also remember running in to that with the half-shafts vs. hub-splines. E/S-series trans have been around for decades, it was just a matter of finding the right combination of shafts, hubs, splines, mounts, etc.

When it comes to using NA engines, iirc, the 3S-GE was only delivered to the CA-market, the 5S-FE was for US-market. There were a few people who blew up their US/5S-FE, and found a CA/3S-GE. Nothing beats a G-head, revved much nicer... face it, the 5S is a Camry motor.

Our '00 has 304k miles, when the long-block goes, was going to put in a 3S-GTE, yet we have one advantage... the car is already a 5-speed (mainly for reliability), so all the structure is in place. Just waiting for the long-block to wear out (either valve seals, or oil-rings), yet that might not be for 100k miles (at least). Our 2wd RAV4 3S-FE has a blown motor, yet we'll probably put in a used motor, just to get it back on the road... there's long-term goals of converting to awd and 3S-GTE, initiate mocking now.

For background, we've done auto->manual conversions, C->E trans conversions on A-engines, and were the first documented 4A-GZE swap in to an MR2 Mk I NA body... even started playing around with doing a 4A-GZE front-engine rear-drive, and found the bellhousing to connect a S-engine to a W-trans for a front-engine rear-drive conversion, just never got around to it. Now we're putting in to queue a 1UZ in to a Gen5 Pickup. So we're reasonably confident we'll know when to continue or give up.
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post #96 of 109 Old 05-15-2019, 11:33 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMR View Post
Thread here about fitting the Highlander brakes. IIRC, 17” wheels are required.

I think that is why I'm going with the Camry V6 brakes. I can still rock the sleeper look with 15" steel wheels . I have 16" rims on it currently, so the Highlander brakes are out for now.
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post #97 of 109 Old 05-15-2019, 11:54 AM
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If you've got 16" rims, you can go with the Lexus LS400 brake setup. A bit bigger than the Camry/Avalon dual pistons. You just need to install them on opposite sides to have the bleeder valves on the correct, upper side. This is because they're mounted on the LS400 differently.

Buried somewhere in those brake upgrade threads is an analysis I did regarding total piston area:

My '92 V6 Camry's stock front caliper has single 2.25" bore = 3.976 inē
94 front caliper has dual 1.68" bore = 4.433 inē, 11% increase
91-92 Lexus LS400 caliper has dual 1.75" bore = 4.81 inē 21% increase
2001 Highlander single bore = 2.5" = 4.91 inē - 23% increase
2009 - 2010 Highlander V6 calipers with rotors

What I'm ignoring there is the brake pad swept area, an important parameter for fade resistance. More pad area = better heat dissipation.

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post #98 of 109 Old 05-15-2019, 12:13 PM Thread Starter
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Now who has V6 disc brake splash guards / dust covers for sale?

Last edited by NOTAMR2; 05-15-2019 at 12:45 PM.
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post #99 of 109 Old 05-20-2019, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
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UPDATE:


Found a donor vehicle for the brakes upgrade.





It has all I need for the disc brake upgrade. Although I had already bought front calipers and rotors, I still needed all 4 backing plates, the rear calipers, brake master cylinder, and proportioning valve.All of that was still in this car!


In addition, the wiring harness for the trunk lights was in excellent condition, and this thing had a JBL sound system and rear speakers still attached.


Plus I got the ECU from the 1MZ as well!


I got this car for $300 CAD (220 USD).



Tow was $120 CAD (90 USD).


So $310 USD for 4 backing plates , rear calipers, and a host of other hard to find individual bits and pieces.

Last edited by NOTAMR2; 05-20-2019 at 06:27 PM.
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post #100 of 109 Old 05-21-2019, 12:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NOTAMR2 View Post
UPDATE:


Found a donor vehicle for the brakes upgrade.

It has all I need for the disc brake upgrade. Although I had already bought front calipers and rotors, I still needed all 4 backing plates, the rear calipers, brake master cylinder, and proportioning valve.All of that was still in this car!

In addition, the wiring harness for the trunk lights was in excellent condition, and this thing had a JBL sound system and rear speakers still attached.

Plus I got the ECU from the 1MZ as well!

I got this car for $300 CAD (220 USD).

Tow was $120 CAD (90 USD).

So $310 USD for 4 backing plates , rear calipers, and a host of other hard to find individual bits and pieces.

AFAIK the master cylinder is the same, at least for my 97' Camry. You only need to change the proportioning valve. Saves you a bunch of work. For fronts you do not have to change the backing plates unless you really want to. I just pushed them inwards bending them slightly so they do not touch the disks. I have a few years running like that and no problems even with chains, etc. Again less work.


Congrats on a good deal. I paid USD 350 only for the rear stuff (the whole hub assembly with carrier, hubs, parking brakes, cables, disks, and calipers).


You may want to look at the brake lights harness/sockets as mine were cooked.
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post #101 of 109 Old 05-21-2019, 07:29 AM
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If you're gonna do the front backing plates, remember that they bolt on before the hub gets pressed into the bearing. Since you have to change the hubs for the V6 ones (are the hubs coming off the donor, too?), do the backing plates at the same time. You have to knock out the hub to take the off the donor, too. Otherwise, you can cut the backing plate at it's narrowest point around the hub shaft, then bend it out of the way to remove/install. 3 torx bolts each, may or may not come off as torx bolts do depending on rust situation.
For rears you just have to unbolt the wheel bearung/hub assembly. Need the parking brake cables, too.
Proportioning valve is much, much easier to do when the engine is out, if that's still an option.
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post #102 of 109 Old 05-21-2019, 04:51 PM
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Wow, interesting thread...just read it from the start. Looks like we should keep the manual transmission 1998 V6 Camry I traded to my brother in the family.

2000 Solara, SLE V6 auto, 490,000 miles
1998 Tacoma, TRD, 4WD, 101,000 miles
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post #103 of 109 Old 05-21-2019, 11:44 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slavie View Post
...Since you have to change the hubs for the V6 ones (are the hubs coming off the donor, too?.

I ordered SKF ones. The donor ones were eeeeugh.


Tha backing plates are solid enough, but they've been through a lot looks like. I am thinking of reconditioning them first before I install them.


Will the V6 hubs still work wiht the I4 backing plates? I was thining of doing the brakes later. (We have ot pull the engine out again eventually when the stage 3 clutch arrives. We're using the sotck V6 clutch for the time being just to get the car on the road)


Also...


IT BEGINS!!!!
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post #104 of 109 Old 05-22-2019, 12:16 AM Thread Starter
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Well we've encountered our first huge snag...

We all knew the firewall mount would be different, now it looks like the subframe mount and passenger side mount don't match either!

Passenger side mount

5S


3S




Subframe mount

5S


3S




Only the transmission mount ended matching.

Any help / advice from the gurus would be much appreciated.
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post #105 of 109 Old 05-22-2019, 12:56 AM
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No expert here, but I for passenger side I wonder if the holes are not in the same place on the block if you remove the timing belt cover from the 3S engine. If yes, maybe you can do some creative trimming/welding of the cover.
Myabe you already looked at this but on the front maybe the two engines have different mounts that end up on same location on the subframe (or close enough).
Custom mounts is another solution.
But before that I would look to just relocate the mounts on the subframe. You may need a spare subframe for this as you may not be able to relocate the existing mounting point without damaging the subframe or the mounting point.
IMHO the easiest to fix are the firewall and front mount - welding required. The tricky one is the passenger side. In the worst case you may need to fabricate something after all the other mounting points are done and the engine is aligned.
Look at the bright side: the 3S mounting points are similarly located on the engine and bay so the forces would be properly distributed. That's the important stuff. The rest are just bumps on the road.
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