Awwwright, now to get the engine and trans back into this mother. There are a few small things that should be taken care of before the hoist-hoist (like my Cloud Atlas pidgin English?
First thing, if you replaced the distributor hole cap and redid the valve cover gasket due to leakage, the heater hoses are most definitely in bad shape from being doused in oil for the longest time. Might as well replace them:
...note how they intertwine, and that I transferred the clamps over from the old hoses. Also, gen3 and gen4 hoses are different due to gen3 having an inline heater valve (gen4 heater core is perma-hot, they use a blend door to control heat output). Finally, as of this writing, RockAuto doesn't list the correct Gates part numbers under a 2000 Camry 5S-FE; I figured out the right ones and listed them in parts.
Next up, I had to replace my broken exhaust manifold studs. They were jammed in there, and I used my best, rust-eating penetrating oil (Gasoila Free-All) and a chuck-type extractor. Managed to sprain my wrist getting them out!
...note the thread issue, the stud galled to the manifold. New ones installed with copper anti-seize:
...the ends are chewed up because my friend installed them, and opted not to chase the manifold holes with a tap (forced the studs in there with Vise-grips). Don't do that, run a tap through.
Remember that the second engine pull (busted engine), I opted not to remove the exhaust midpipe, so it's still in the car resting on the front of the subframe. Here's a new ring gasket installed:
...I also cleaned up the front mount pedestal with my trusty cup brush and brake cleaner. Also cleaned up the rear mount pedestal:
...ignore the nasty around the steering rack, I sure did (LOL).
Final thing to prep is to swap out the fuel filter. Spent all that money having injectors refreshed, you can be damn sure I'm going to put in a fresh filter! If you remember, it's on the driver side of the engine bay:
Loosen the 14mm flare nut at the bottom:
...I strongly recommend using some penetrating oil, using a 19mm wrench to counterhold at the fuel filter, and use a 14mm flare nut wrench to break it loose. If you don't counterhold, you might twist the line removing it and then you have a bigger issue.
Two 10mm bolts hold the filter bracket to the chassis, undo those to remove it from the car:
New filter next to old:
...my filter seems to be original. If you live in a major metropolitan center, you have access to gas stations slinging good-quality gas that has a high turnover. This is why a fuel filter would last the life of the vehicle. Maybe not so true 40 years ago. Note that the ridges on the fuel filter mate with the bracket. Also note that the new filter has a "crown" on top accommodating whichever way the fuel line may need to go and securing it.
Undo the 10mm clamp bolt to get the old filter out of the bracket:
...yes, they come from the factory with threadlocker. Use hand tools, go slowly, apply penetrating oil if necessary. No heat as we don't want the fuel filter to morph into an active grenade.
Line up the new filter's ridges with the bracket and get it to approximately the same position as the old one, then reclamp the bracket. Remove the plug from the bottom of the new filter, and reinstall the bracket to the chassis with the two 10mm bolts:
...no torque spec for those, don't worry about it. German torque spec: gutantite. Then, place the fuel feed line in the inlet and screw in the flare nut. Tighten that until the flared end seals.
OK we're ready to drop the engine and trans back in. I'm not showing you more pics of the powertrain on the crane, too many of those already. First thing you want to do before lifting it up is remove the harmonic balancer with your impact wrench. This is why:
...it's more difficult because the HB would keep hanging up on the chassis rail. Lower the powertrain in carefully, making sure to watch these things (off the top of my head, it's been a few days):
- heater hoses
- throttle cables from cruise control and firewall
- A/C lines
- A/C compressor, as the engine could push it into the condenser and damage that (in fact, put a layer of cardboard for some minimal protection)
- front mount, as it could do the same thing to the condenser
...you want to line up the front and rear mounts with their respective holes; the rear mount has studs that'll drop in, then you can line up the front mount and thread in its 14mm bolts to secure its position:
Don't release the sling from the engine yet, you will need to lift it up and/or down a bit to line up the transmission mount with the transmission and thread in the four 14mm bolts:
Here's the rear mount positioned:
...all this is easier with the aid of a friend. Thread on the three 14mm nuts to secure the rear mount:
...and then you can remove the sling from the engine:
Now, the FSM wants us to torque down the dogbone strut before the other mounts, so that's what we'll do. My old one was broken:
...actually, it broke because I did the first swap with a Harbor Freight engine hoist, which lost pressure overnight when I left it to get some sleep. The dogbone became the only thing holding up the engine and wasn't up to the task. You get what you pay for. Here's the new strut:
...all the bolts are 14mm. The two with large (tall) heads hold the bracket to the engine side bracket. The longer bolt with the captive washer holds the strut to the bracket, and the shorter flange bolt secures the strut to the chassis. All bolts are 47 ft-lbs, in this order: dogbone bracket-to-engine side bracket bolts, dogbone-to-chassis bolt, and finally, dogbone-to-bracket bolt.
Next up, torquing the front mount-to-subframe bolts. If your car is a J-VIN and you are using the J-VIN mount hardware, torque all three 14mm bolts to 59 ft-lbs. If you are using 4-VIN hardware, the silver bolt is 32 ft-lbs, green-head bolts are 49 ft-lbs.
Next, rear mount torquing. All three 14mm nuts, 49 ft-lbs. And finally, the four 14mm transmission mount-to-transmission bolts: 47 ft-lbs. If you can't get to a couple of them due to clearance issues with the subframe, just tighten them by feel with a box wrench.
Finally, there are hole plugs that should cover two of the rear mount holes:
...I'm missing one, I'll be salvaging it from my donor shell.
Oh yeah, almost forgot: reinstall the harmonic balancer and torque the bolt to spec (80 ft-lbs).
OK, next up, install the transmission control cable that comes from the shift lever. Clip it here to route properly:
Attach the bracket to the transmission case with the two 12mm bolts:
...11 ft-lbs. Next, secure the cable to the control lever with the 12mm nut:
...also 11 ft-lbs. Next up is the P/S pump. Now I forgot to reinstall the P/S pump bracket to the engine while it was out, so it's time to do that now. Here's the bracket with the upper pump mounting bolt pushed into its receptacle:
...it's held to the block by three 14mm bolts:
...let's say 47 ft-lbs for those.
Pull back the upper pivot bolt so you can line up the P/S pump with the bracket, then thread in the pivot bolt and the lower adjustment bolt:
...no pics of this, but get the drive belt on the harmonic balancer and the P/S pump, then tension it by prying (with at least a 2-foot prybar) between the adjustment bracket and the block. Then, tighten the adjustment bolt so that it doesn't move, and measure tension if you are so inclined and have a belt tension gauge. Spec is 80 +- 20 lbs. Then, torque both the adjustment bolt and the pivot bolt (both 14mm) to 32 ft-lbs. You can get the adjustment bolt from the wheel well, and the pivot bolt from above:
Don't forget to plug the idle up switch back in:
...and that takes care of the steering. If you followed my P/S pump rebuild DIY as well, remember to refill the system with new ATF, and bleed once the engine's runnin'.
Next up is the A/C compressor. Three long 12mm bolts, secure it to the block:
...19 ft-lbs. Hook up the clutch connector:
...in that pic, I have it routed to the right of the hard lines, but you want it to the left as you'll want to clamp those wires to the lower radiator hose.
Now for the drive axles. I have two OE driver-side axles here:
...both will work on my car, as it doesn't have ABS. The unit with the tone ring came from the donor, which does have ABS. You want to lube up the inner splines with ATF, then insert it square into the diff. The OE axles have a nice flange to hammer against; place a prybar against the top flange (rotate axle if necessary):
...hammer on the end of the prybar until the axle seats. As you hammer on the top flange, it counteracts gravity and brings the axle square with the diff splines, so it'll go in easier than if you were hammering on a flange in any other position. Whoa, you notice that the awning has a cutout to accommodate the prybar?
The passenger axle is easier, as there are no splines holding it in the diff. Lube up the bearing carrier at the rear mount bracket with penetrating oil. Also lube up the intermediate shaft support bearing on the axle, and make sure the snap ring is around the axle beyond the inner tulip. Then, just slide the axle in. Make sure the splines enter the diff fully, and the bearing is seated fully in the carrier.
You'll want a pair of long needlenose pliers to install the snap ring:
...use your other hand to get the snap ring into the groove before releasing it (watch your fingers!). Don't half-ass this, as the axle will walk out if you don't install the snap ring correctly and it springs off. Here it is installed correctly:
Finally, you should still have the bearing lock bolt and the little rubber nugget that goes on the end (which you should have extracted from the rear mount bracket):
...that little nub goes into the hole on the end of the bolt:
...do NOT substitute any old 14mm bolt that pushes against the intermediate shaft bearing. That's how you bend the bearing race and get rhythmic vibration issues as the axle would be out of balance (encountered that on my Barn Find #2 ES300). Torque the bolt to 24 ft-lbs.
OK, now to hook up all the various wiring stuffs. Feed the engine wiring harness through the firewall:
...install the grommet properly, and make sure the arrow is pointing upward BEFORE you start seating the grommet, to end up with this:
...if you twist the grommet after it's in, you twist the wiring, and risk tearing the grommet. Oh, and install the DLC1 to its bracket on the fender apron, along with the harness to the second bracket slightly below that:
Here's how the wiring harness hooks up to the ECU and distro block:
Time to hook up the alternator. Make sure the wiring harness clamp clicks onto the bracket coming off the alternator, then hook up the two connectors:
...note the diode pack connector (says "PUSH"), push that in 'til it clicks. And let's say 69 in-lbs for the 10mm nut holding the positive cable. Dig up the protective cap and clip it on:
Now to the other side. Clip the plastic harness bracket on:
...and plug in the starter solenoid:
And hook up the battery positive connection to the back of the starter:
...14mm nut, 27 ft-lbs.
Next up, connect the MAP sensor to the harness:
...note that the clamp for it is broken, common at this age. Doesn't do much anyway other than make it look slightly cleaner. Hook up the MAP to the gas filter:
Next, hook up the grounds at the right fender apron:
...mating connectors to make your life easy. If you took off the grounds to clean them at the fender apron, torque the 10mm bolt to 82 in-lbs.