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Camry 3rd & 4th Gen (1992-1996 & 1997-2001)/1st Gen Solara (1999-2003) Toyota Camry Discussion for years 1992-1996 & 1997-2001, as well as Solara discussion for years 1999-2003. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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post #1 of 13 Old 04-14-2019, 04:15 AM Thread Starter
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Hot lug nuts

Are hot lug nuts normal?

I have a 97 Camry with front discs and rear drums.

After a very short amount of braking down a steep but short hill (250ft distance hill), the front lug nuts gets quite hot. The rears aren't hot however.

Is this normal? I just changed my struts and I was wiggling with the brakes quite a bit. I was trying to be careful though
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post #2 of 13 Old 04-14-2019, 09:02 AM
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This isn't normal unless both calipers are starting to seize. Hot metal smell near the wheels is what you should be concern about.
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post #3 of 13 Old 04-14-2019, 09:24 AM
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Your front disks do 80% of braking... so they will get hot just driving around. Lift your front tire, is it loose ? It won't turn much due to being attached to the trans. But it should go back and forth with ease.
That's why the front pads always go first. The rears always last 60+K
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post #4 of 13 Old 04-14-2019, 10:16 AM
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You might want to verify that the rear brake adjusters are keeping the rears adjusted. If they are not, while the fronts do most of the braking, they should not be doing ALL of the braking. You may want to manually adjust the rears just to be sure. Even after I put new pads and rotors on the front of my '94, I wasn't happy with the braking. After pulling the rear drums and verifying that there was plenty of meat left on the rear shoes, I manually adjusted them. That was the cure.
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post #5 of 13 Old 04-14-2019, 10:59 AM
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I have found that the XV20 front calipers tend towards seizing.
The cure is a simple disassemble/clean/reassemble, which I can usually do without any parts necessary. Do inspect the dust boot carefully, you need that to be free from holes.
The rear drums should be adjusted by yourSELF. That is what is meant by SELF-adjusters. My procedure is simple - adjust until you can barely move the drum, then back off three teeth. This loads and centers the shoes, then releases just enough for free wheel movement.

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post #6 of 13 Old 04-14-2019, 01:57 PM
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The slide pins do not work causing the brakes to seize. Check the sliding pins...
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post #7 of 13 Old 04-14-2019, 02:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glenpointe View Post
The slide pins do not work causing the brakes to seize. Check the sliding pins...
While definitely a possibility, on my five XV20s, I've not seen it. However, four have had the front caliper pistons seize. All but the Japanese-built one. Hmmm.

Still, if the pins DO seize, heat up the carrier and they'll come out. Not warm - Hot!

Heat can be very useful with older vehicles. Ask me one day how many times I welded a nut onto a GM's bleeder screw before it came out, intact (but NOT useable).

Cosmo

P.S. Welding a nut onto a seized bolt is a time-worn technique that nearly Always works.
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post #8 of 13 Old 04-14-2019, 02:20 PM
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You will need to get something like this

Infrared Thermometer, Helect Non-Contact Digital Laser Infrared Thermometer Temperature Gun -58F to 1022F (-50C to 550C) with LCD Display https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071NBJJ2Q..._8E4SCbPN7VTFX

Brakes will get hot under normal use . I found with alloys, you won’t really feel the heat compare to Steelies which seems to transmit the heat to the rims quicker. Probably because of the thickness of the rim.

Normal daily driving brakes can get up into the 200F range -+ 50. If your going Past in the 300F range, check for dragging brakes or sliding pins. Another test is check all wheels. If one wheel is much hotter than the other, you got dragging brakes on one wheel.

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post #9 of 13 Old 04-14-2019, 02:36 PM
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Look at the front rotor.
Is it uniformly grey or has blue-ish or, worse, yello-ish or brown-ish tint to it? If yes, rotor is definitely overheating. For whatever reasons.

Why touch lug nuts? Touch rim. Yes, it will be warm after some drive. But not intolerable hot. Tires will be warm also.



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post #10 of 13 Old 04-14-2019, 05:36 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ukrkoz View Post
Look at the front rotor.
Is it uniformly grey or has blue-ish or, worse, yello-ish or brown-ish tint to it? If yes, rotor is definitely overheating. For whatever reasons.

Why touch lug nuts? Touch rim. Yes, it will be warm after some drive. But not intolerable hot. Tires will be warm also.
They were still grey but this was only after a 10 minute drive and they were already hot enough to only touch it for a second or two.

They are on steelies. And I'm just a little paranoid that I may have done something to the brakes when I was putting in the new struts.
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post #11 of 13 Old 04-15-2019, 04:13 PM
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I’ve touch the lug nuts and steelies on different cars after a Normaldrive. They are pretty hot. Not like hot where you’ll burn you fingers after a quick glaze (ie touching exhaust heatsheidl after a drive) but it’s not comfortable keeping there for more than a few seconds.

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post #12 of 13 Old 04-16-2019, 08:16 PM
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I would spend ~$10 to get one of those none-contact IR thermometer to check and compare, instead of by feel...


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post #13 of 13 Old 04-17-2019, 10:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by naisu View Post
They were still grey but this was only after a 10 minute drive and they were already hot enough to only touch it for a second or two.

They are on steelies. And I'm just a little paranoid that I may have done something to the brakes when I was putting in the new struts.
You should be fine. Hot lugs are normal after braking during normal driving. I've been darn near burned by em from cars in the shop that came in from a fresh drive. You can jack up, get wheel off the ground and spin the wheel back and forth. If it moves freely, nothing is seizing in the caliper.
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